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Availability:
In Stock.
Arrives
Monday, Sep 28
Description
Requires 18 inches of clearance behind the spa - 5 inches on each side. Not suitable for round or inground spas. It resists rust and is made of durable, double-coated aluminum tubing and stainless steel hardware. Max 130" x 54" x 16" (WxHxD) WEIGHT: 19 lbs
Color: Black
Brand: Puri Tech
Material: Aluminum
Finish Type: Powder Coated
Unit Count: 1 Count
Brand Name: Puri Tech
Model Number:
Manufacturer: Puri Tech
UPC: 638126735621
Unit Count: 1 Count
Item Depth: 18 inches
Material Type: Aluminum
Mounting Type: Under Mount
Color: Black
Finish Types: Powder Coated
Frequently asked questions
If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is:
Monday, Sep 28
Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
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Top Amazon Reviews
My old lifter was spring loaded and made of steel. I followed the directions on that one and realized I could have saved myself a lot of headaches if I knew what I know now. I have a few pointers to save your cover from destruction and abuse. I have applied them to this aluminum one without the need for springs (rusted out badly) and I took a few pictures. First, aluminum is the only way to go for anything, especially lounge chairs. Coated steel is just a white wash for rust and deterioration not to mention the heavy weight. Spend a few extra dollars and you'll be very glad you did. Ironically, this lifter is only a hundred or so and is the nicest one I have seen. I had no problem giving up the spring loaded thoughts as this spa is a Freeflow Mini by Watkins. They make the Hotsprings spas, which I had one for 30 years and loved it every day, so this cover is only 4x6 feet and when new weighs less than my cat. The main thing I want to say is, you really only need 2 screws to put the frame together. If you look at the pictures, you will see that there is one screw on each side that connects the elbow bar to the side leg. There is no need for more, it's not going anywhere. Where the cross bar joins to the elbow, use rubber electrical tape. Not electric vinyl, but rubber. Stretch it as you go to make it pliable and wrap the joints a few times. This will keep water from seeping inside the tube and it will only add a fraction of an inch to the thickness so the top won't bulge around it. Without screws you will have a nice smooth surface for the cover to wrap around. Another tip is to pull off the foam strip that is on the elbow, it isn't really necessary and without it you will have no unnecessary bulging in the cover seam. On the old steel one, I did the screws as told and it rusted and tore up the cover over time. The rubber tape will hold, I promise you'll be lucky to take it back off once it sets and the tubes aren't about to move. Where the side leg meets the elbow tube is the only screw I put in, because it will keep the cover from pushing it down when open. There are places and screws for 3 on each side but I can't imagine any reason for that. One other thing, put it together without any screws and get it where it needs to be first. When the cover is closed, the cross bar should not be on the center seam but to the side of the seam that is on the lifter side. Once you have it in place, wrap a piece of duct tape around the joints of the side leg and elbow. Then open and lift the cover to make sure you have the legs back far enough so you have room for it to stand behind the spa when open. The nice thing here is that it holds the cover up off the deck when open. My old springs lifter kept lifting till it let the cover hit the deck. The instructions say the swivel point on the bottom plates should be in 7 inches from the end of the spa but that was way off for mine. I ended up putting the end of the plate even with the back of the spa. Remember, when folded, the cover is at least 8 or more inches unless it is really thin. Play with it, you only need two boards, one as a base and the other as a lever placed under the body if it has a groove or offset. Push the lever down and the spa will lift easily enough to move the plates. Have fun.
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Reviewed in the United States on March 16, 2021 by GG FLORIDA
GG Florida and Poolman made some excellent hints for us. Here's a few more. You will need 17mm ratchet wrench and standard wrench to assemble pivot joints. If you don't have metric, 11/16 will be okay with a tad of wobble. We found that we needed to tighten that joint firmly. I don't have a torque wrench but don't make it too loose. I agree that 15 screws are greatly superfluous. We put in 2 on the upright supports - not 3 and put in 1 at each end of the cross bar and center connection rather than the 9 called for. That seemed to give a bit more stability over the rubber tape. We did apply the tape and recommend that. You will definitely need to wrap these cross bar screw heads because the rubber caps will NOT stay on as you operate the opener. You will be much happier driving the self-tapping screws with a power tool. Otherwise count on getting golfer's elbow. Finally, we found that lifting the hot tub was easiest with right angle type wrecking bar. All in all a very functional device. In my experience, one which attaches to the side of the tub will eventually tear loose - sun-related deterioration of the siding, waterlogged cover, kids letting in drop back uncontrolled. And when that happens, it's a royal pain. I think that is much less likely with a ground mounted lifter.
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Reviewed in the United States on September 12, 2021 by Colorado Bill
I just installed today and used the tricks as mentioned by other reviews. E.g. get everything set, use duct tape to test things out, then install the screws. Directions say the plates go 7" from the end - which was way off (as was in other reviews too). Mine extended a bit past the end of the spa. I had to use treated deck board as a shim, it wasn't until I got to installing this that I realized the part touching my concrete was tucked a ways under the spa (and the plate didn't reach). Fortunately I had some left over deck boards that appear to be a good height. I got it all set up, used duct tape, tested things out, adjusted a couple times (taking off tape, moving and re-taping). I used all the screws. I'm not sure they would have been needed, but they are pretty easy to install, so I installed them all. I used the cardboard trick over the spa when drilling the crossbar to not get metal shavings on the spa cover. I did put those caps on the screws, but also used rubber electrical tape over everything too. I used the tape over the screws, and over where the bars slide into one another so that there weren't any places for water to get inside. My new spa cover is pretty light (<50 lbs), so I think this will be fine. But my old lift was fine too until my spa cover got water logged somehow and got heavy and busted the lift. This new lift doesn't look any stronger than the old lift - so hoping it lasts.
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Reviewed in the United States on October 24, 2022 by Ryan L Ketterer
Very simple concept. Our tub is a swim spa and much higher than the typical tub. I had to modify this to work for our cover. It was a little tougher for me to install due to that, but it would be REALLY easy for others with normal size spa. I would HIGHLY recommend this as it makes moving the cover pretty easy!
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Reviewed in the United States on March 8, 2022 by Thomas T.
Easy to install but you have to drain your spa backslash hot tub first. That’s in the instructions. The screw caps will pop off, however, that’s the same with every screw cap I’ve ever seen. I would suggest adding a small dollop of superglue on the head of the screw before installing the cap. Otherwise, the lift is amazing, so if you have a hot tub and you are removing the cover each, and every time you use it, you’ll be thrilled to have this.
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Reviewed in the United States on January 9, 2023 by Jerrod Wickler
This item states it would slip under your HOT TUB. One side did and the other didn't. We returned the product and were charged half of the amount for restocking. They said because it had scratches and couldn't be sold. How can it be a restocking fee if you aren't restocking? Yes it had scratches from our attempt to install the product that did not work. Do not buy
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Reviewed in the United States on October 7, 2021 by Adyan
Minimum fit about 80 inches with both poles. You can cut and re-drill if you’re handy. Would have been nice to know before ordering.
Reviewed in the United States on July 27, 2026 by Amazon Customer
I agree with some other reviews that the 7" distance is too much. I also had to place mine right at the end of the Hot tub. After installing it and having to do the screws twice, I agree with one reviewer that said to use duct tape to try it out and make sure it flips how you want it before you screw it in place. My angle brackets (base piece that fits under the Tub) was fitting loose because the skirt on my tub doesn't sit flat on the ground. I had to just add some wooden shims to jam it in there so it doesn't move. This worked fine. You might want to also attach a lanyard or rope to the front handle of the cover. When you flip the cover over, it's hard to get it back without having to go around back and push it back up. With the cord, you can pull it back easily. I can move the cover with hardly no force. So far so good on this purchase.
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Reviewed in the United States on November 8, 2021 by Hammy