FLSUN T1 Pro Delta 3D Printer - Ultra-Fast 1000mm/s Printing, Dual-Gear Extruder, 300°C Nozzle, One-Button Auto-Leveling, AI Monitoring, FDM 3D Printer, Large Print Size 11.2"x11.2"x13"
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Size: FLSUN T1 Pro
Features
- Ultra High-Speed Printing Save Time, Boost Efficiency: Experience blazing-fast printing with the FLSUN T1 Pro, reaching speeds up to 1000mm/s and 30,000mm/s2 accelerationover 20 faster than typical 3D printers. Full-auto, one-click leveling ensures perfect calibration every time. Ideal for both professionals and beginners who want faster results without compromising quality
- Powerful & Smart Operation in Minutes: Go from unboxing to printing in just 10 minutes. Control remotely and track progress anytime via the FLSUN mobile app or FLSUN Studio slicer. Built-in HD camera enables real-time monitoring and time-lapse creation. Filament run-out and break detection minimize waste and keep your projects on trackdelivering a safer, smarter, and more efficient printing experience
- Large Build Volume & Wide Material Support: With a generous 11.2 x 11.2 x 13 in build area, print large models in one piece or multiple parts in one batch. The dual-gear direct-drive extruder supports a wide range of materialsPLA, PETG, TPU, PVA, PET, ABS, ASA, PA, PC, and moreunlocking greater creative freedom and professional-grade results
- Dual Air Filtration & Quiet Printing: Equipped with a dual-layer HEPA13 and activated carbon filtration system, the T1 Pro captures 99% of particles and VOCs, protecting your health. An upgraded turbo fan automatically adjusts airflow for optimal cooling. Enjoy whisper-quiet operation at just 55dB, perfect for home, office, or studio use
- The FLSUN T1 Pro enclosed 3D printer features an intelligent assist system for consistently high-quality results. Automatic bed leveling and advanced vibration compensation ensure smooth, precise layers every time. The power-loss recovery function lets you resume printing right where it left off after an outageno failed prints or wasted time. Filament detection actively monitors material status and automatically pauses the job if an issue occurs, helping you avoid print defects and filament waste.
Brand: FLSUN
Material: Metal
Color: Black
Product Dimensions: 23.62"D x 34.25"W x 9.45"H
Item Weight: 22.34 Kilograms
Product Dimensions: 23.62 x 34.25 x 9.45 inches
Item Weight: 49.1 pounds
Item model number: Flsun T1 Pro
Date First Available: October 11, 2024
Manufacturer: FLSUN
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Top Amazon Reviews
First week review 4/13/2020, will update over time: Assembly was a breeze out of the box. Albeit, my extruder stepper motor was not factory installed which the manual does not talk about installation. In the bag of screws (not the bag of extras), take two of the tiny screws out and use those to mount the assembled titan-clone bowden extruder I made sure to inspect all of the screws that were installed by the factory. I checked the z-stops at the top of the printer and needed to tighten the screws. I made sure to tighten the screws holding the 3 sides of rods for the top and bottom. I also checked the screws holding the arms to the platform. The stepper motors holders in the bottom case also were checked. If not tight, these holders might warp over time. So it's definitely a good idea to check everything yourself that was factory assembled, to avoid potential problems over time. Turned on the printer, plugged the included usb cable into my printer with stock out of the box firmware and my raspberry pi 3 model b loaded with OctoPrint, it connected immediately no problem (YMMV, power off on again if not connecting, maybe reflash the firmware). I left the connection settings to AUTO. For reference, the serial port I see connected is /dev/ttyUSB0 with baudrate at 115200 and printer profile default. I autoleveled the bed using the included autolevel switch that is held to the hotend platform by a magnet, with all heaters turned off. Then I pressed the adjust Z=0 height button on screen and the platform lowered to the autolevel z_0 point. I got a plain piece of printer paper and slid it under the nozzle on the bed and adjusted the platform down until there was slight resistance sliding the paper back and forth. That's a good z=0 height, so I pressed save and the platform homed back to the top position. Within minutes I was printing my first benchy with the included 200g of (190c hotend, 60c bed) white filament. Note: Its fans are quiet The Flsun qq-s pro (this model, with the highly accurate autolevel *switch*) is by comparison is equivalent to my gaming pc fans running in quiet mode. Out of the box printer calibration is accurate to a few mm off, make sure the arms bearings are screwed tight, print a calibration cube to confirm for yours. Mine was 2mm off out of the box. There is a very active fb owners group with new firmware and an unofficial Marlin firmware and many models and useful knowledge faq guide in the files section. I did not need to flash any firmware, only needed firmware that was factory installed stock. There are many models for this printer on thingiverse (flsun qq, flsun qq-s, pro) and I printed some of them to improve the aesthetic of the printer design. Included are pictures of the outcome. I installed 8-diodes TL-smoothers and they improved my prints, no more salmon skin effect caused by the stepper motors drivers providing not smooth power to the stepper motors. This printer uses a4988 stepper motor drivers which are affected by this easily mitigated issue with 8-diodes TL-smoothers. These diodes prevent power going back to the drivers from the motor and redirects it back to the motor. Included are pictures of the TL-smoothers in place with the controller board. This panel was accessed on the bottom of the printer. You will also find the power supply input voltage switch in here (115V or 220V). For US switch to 115V before turning on the printer. So far this is a fantastic addition to my collection of delta 3D printers. --- Update 4/24/2020 (week 2) The printer is still making fantastic prints. I cleaned the bed with isopropyl alcohol to clean off any fingerprints and debris that led to poor filament adhesion after a week of use. This restored great adhesion to the bed like new again. I am using Cura 4.5.0 with the OctoPrint plugin to generate gcode procedures from models and send the job to OctoPrint. I calibrated my extruder's e-steps per mm. The initial factory stock value for my extruder steps per mm was 367 according to M205 output. I marked the position of the filament 50mm from the stepper motor top and compared after it was done. For me, I overridden the value to the standard 415 steps per mm because when I told the printer to extrude 50mm it only extruded 45mm and the calculation from the faq guide adapted to my numbers was 367*50/44=417, this could be different for your printer. As for Cura 4.5.0 settings that worked best for my printer 0.4 nozzle with amazonbasics pla 1.75mm filament: initial layer height: 0.3 outer before inner walls: yes compensate wall overlaps: yes z seam alignment: sharpest corner seam corner preference: hide seam or smart hiding infill before walls: yes printing temperature (hotend): 225 ; hot for pla, yet amazonbasics pla is stubborn to melt in my environment; 230 for petg ; ymmv build plate temperature (bed): 70 ; hot for pla, yet this pla would not stick at 60 and somewhat stick at 65; 90 for petg ; ymmv flow: 100 ; this is after I calibrated my e-stops steps per mm initial layer flow: 100 ; this is after I calibrated my e-stops steps per mm print speed: 250 ; this is the max I use for ok draft quality, I make it go slower if I want more quality, ymmv, I keep it at 150 for good draft quality and less than 100 for even better quality with pla, make this slow for petg wall speed: auto calculated ; sometimes I set it slower if I want more quality initial layer speed 50 ; I slow this down if I see bad bed adhesion, or I stop the job and clean the bed thoroughly equalize filament flow: yes enable acceleration control: yes (update: on Marlin I disabled this) print acceleration: 3000 enable jerk control: yes (update: on Marlin I disabled this) print jerk: 40 enable retraction: yes ; ymmv, could be less stringing in prints retraction distance: 7.5 ; ymmv (update: worked for my pla) retraction speed: 70 ; ymmv (update: worked for my pla, for petg definitely slow this down to around 25) combing mode: not in skin retract before outer wall: yes avoid printed parts when traveling: yes avoid supports when traveling: yes z-hop when retracted: yes ; ymmv (update: may cause bumps on print, then set no) fan speed: 100% (I printed better air baffles and now I use 30% for pla and off for petg) minimum layer time: 2 lift head: yes build plate adhesion type: none ; (sometimes I use skirt or brim, I look at model height, definitely brim for petg) As for the start gcode, I used a post on the fb group that makes the platform go to the bed edge of the logo, extrude 30mm to clear the extruder making a mound, hop up, move to the left, and tap the plate to cut off the string. Then it continues with the rest of the job. It's pretty cool start gcode to watch in person. Experimental settings ymmv: infill travel optimization: yes enable coasting: yes ; ymmv (update: I set this to no for better quality) enable bridge settings: yes use adaptive layers: yes ; I set no when I want a faster print and quality does not matter, it has made beautiful prints for me when there are curves over z-height in a model (update: I don't use this with Marlin) So far, printing with this 3D printer is still a joy and I'm happy there were no problems after two weeks of heavy use. --- Update 7/21/2020 (month 3) Flashed open source Marlin firmware over the stock firmware on the board to gain linear advance pressure control, much improved advanced unified bed leveling for much better bed adhesion, and bed correction via the fade height feature. I also noticed several prints had wavy outer walls due to the infill pattern showing through the walls. I increased the wall thickness to have smooth walls on prints. I re-lubed the smooth rods the pulleys assemblies slide up / down through with dry lube PTFE spray and that stopped the noise from the rods I added a Wyze camera (flashed wifi disabled usb-a only firmware) rotated 90 degrees to view the whole print area of the machine and created a design mount to print that's published on Thingiverse. Wear: Hundreds of prints later, the nozzle has degraded in print quality due to wear and soon I will replace it with the spare whole hot-end assembly that came in the box with the printer. When the spare wears out I will upgrade to a full E3D V6 hot-end assembly. I am going to upgrade the bowden PTFE tube to a creality capricorn tube for its heat resistance at higher extruder temperatures to prevent PTFE carbonization/fumes exposure. So far, this is still a great printer and it is aging with normal wear from so much use.
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Reviewed in the United States on April 18, 2020 by Mark
The media could not be loaded. Edit: 5 days later... bought another one for my wife!!! We love this machine! Original review: I'm a complete newbie. Never had one of these things before and I'm not sponsored by anyone. I'm reviewing the FLSUN Super Racer filament printer. It takes about 1hr to assemble it. The manufacturer sends a very nice tool kit and an instruction manual with clear color photos and written instructions in plain English that mostly make sense. The auto leveling feature works flawlessly. It's a painless 5 minutes process to level the bed and then calibrate the Z axis to print. One feature that really impressed me was the ability to adjust the Z axis ON THE FLY ... while it's printing. This allows you to monitor the print as it's laid down and adjust the head up or down 0.05mm at a time for extreme precision. Being able to adjust the head on the fly makes it really easy to dial it in and get nice smooth, flat prints without a bunch of those unsightly lines so common with FDM machines. Changing the filament is super easy. Just preheat the head to 200c and run the z axis all the way down to within a few inches off the bed. That straightens the feed tube and makes installing the new filament a smooth process. Go to the EXCHANGE screen under TOOLS, and press the OUT button to take the filament out. Set up your new spool and feed it into the machine. Press the IN button and watch your filament go down the tube and into the head (which should be hot 200c). Extrude a few coils to get the color cleaned and you're done. Back out of the EXCHANGE menu and hit the HOME button to bring the Z back up to the top. Start printing! I've had this thing 3 days and I'm printing an rc airplane wing!!! It comes with a small 250g roll of white PLA that works fine to get you set up and printing right away. I can't hear it in the next room, so the noise isn't obtrusive or obnoxious at all. I would definitely buy one of these again. There is good value for the money with this product. Check my tiktok page for videos: cessna337b
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Reviewed in the United States on August 20, 2024 by Anonymous User Anonymous User