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Availability:
Only 3 left in stock, order soon!
Arrives
Wednesday, Sep 16
Recently Viewed
Style: for C/CLA/GLA/GLK/ML/GL
Features
- 1. Compatibility & AUX Requirement: Professional CarPlay retrofit for Mercedes-Benz C-Class / E-Class / GLK / ML / CLA / GLA / CLS / SLK (20122015) with NTG4.5 / NTG4.7 system ONLY. AUX function is required in Mercedes-Benz vehicles for audio output. please confirm AUX before purchase. Not compatible with NTG5.0 system
- 2. Wireless CarPlay & Android Auto Upgrade: Upgrade your factory system in Mercedes-Benz with wireless CarPlay and Android Auto.Hands-free calls, music & messages.Support for Google Maps, for Waze, for Spotify.Support for Siri voice control. Smart CarPlay upgrade for Mercedes-Benz drivers
- 3. CarPlay Interface Decoder Not a Screen.This is a CarPlay interface decoder module for Mercedes-Benz, NOT a display screen. Connects to the original CD host in Mercedes-Benz via cables. Retains full OEM system. Adds modern smart features. Reliable CarPlay interface for Mercedes-Benz retrofit.
- 4. OEM Control & Seamless Switching: Keep full factory control in your car with this CarPlay & Android Auto adapter. Long press knob button to switch systems.Supports steering wheel & control knob. Fully compatible with the original system in Mercedes-Benz.Smooth OEM-style CarPlay integration for Mercedes-Benz.
- 5. Camera & Expansion Support: Supports factory & aftermarket backup camera for Mercedes-Benz. Compatible with 360 camera & DVR (CVBS input). Works with parking radar systems in Mercedes-Benz vehicles. Advanced CarPlay retrofit module for Mercedes-Benz
- 6. Installation & After-Sales Support: Installation requires removing dashboard in Mercedes-Benz vehicles and connecting cables.Step-by-step guidance for CarPlay retrofit for Mercedes-Benz.Support for AUX setup, wiring & connection issues. Fast technical support response. Dependable after-sales support for your car CarPlay upgrade
Brand: Road Top
Connectivity Technology: Bluetooth
Controller Type: Android
Special Feature: Built-In Bluetooth
Compatible Devices: Smartphone
Connector Type: USB
Audio Output Mode: Stereo
Surround Sound Channel Configuration: 4.1
Output Power: 45 watts
Number of Channels: 4
Connectivity Technology: Bluetooth
Controller Type: Android
Other Special Features of the Product: Built-In Bluetooth
Compatible Devices: Smartphone
Connector Type: USB
Audio Output Mode: Stereo
Surround Sound Channel Configuration: 4.1
Output Power: 45 watts
Number of Channels: 4
Output Wattage: 45 watts
Supported Internet Services: YouTube
Control Method: Voice
Audio Output Type: RCA, Speakers
Format: 4K, Dolby
Wireless Technology: Bluetooth
Brand: Road Top
Model Number: 32a04258-c120-45c8-81b1-ef4061c255a1
Manufacturer: Road Top
Number of Items: 1
UPC: 763684288682
Built-In Media: carplay box
Mfr Part Number: Carplay-mbntg4
Frequently asked questions
If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is:
Wednesday, Sep 16
Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
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Similar Products
Top Amazon Reviews
Style: for C/CLA/GLA/GLK/ML/GL
This will allow you to have modern Apple/Android functionality on your legacy stereo. Sharing install experiences for others (I have a 2013 E350, other 1st generation E-class models should be similar). I'm in the USA, so I have a LHD car, not sure if this works out for RHD cars. Before you forget, go ahead and set the DIP switches according to the manual. You will need to know if you have the 5.8" or 7" screen, set the switches per the instructions, depending on what screen you have. Also go ahead and attach the two black ground wires together (one from the main harness and the other from the USB harness). You won't get audio if you don't do this, and it's much easier to take care of it beforehand. You'll need to remove the LCD, center vent trim, the radio, the heater controller, the sliding cover/cup holder, and the control knob. Plenty of videos on YT for that. I highly recommend temporarily plugging everything in outside the dashboard, to make sure it all works correctly. If you do this, go ahead and put the center vent trim in position (don't lock it in, just rest it there) and plug in the switches, or else the car will throw errors about a hazard flasher malfunction since it can't find the hazard switch. Don't forget to move the fiber over from the original Quadlock connector to the Quadlock in the harness. The release clip is tiny, it's in the top of the connector. Once you release that the two fibers come out in a black connector. Don't try to take out the individual fibers. Be careful, these are plastic fiber, not as fragile as a glass cable, but still can be easily broken if roughly handled. Once you're sure it's working then take everything back apart and start actually installing it. Here are the best ways I found to route things on my car. I located the control box behind the LCD. That is the only decent place I found that had enough room and allowed the cables to reach. Now starting from the radio cavity, thread the wifi antenna connector, and the white connectors from the two harnesses, past the vent flanges, on the left side. Tuck the wires behind the vent flange on the left side. Take the LVDS cable and run it down the right side the same way. Think of it like a V, the bottom of the V goes to the control box and the two tails stay in the radio cavity. Plug the cables into the control box, working inside the monitor cavity. Now place the control box in position behind the LCD. I had the white connector end pointed down and wifi antenna connector pointing up. It was able to tuck into a recess that extended toward the passenger side. I took a big zip tie and was able to secure the control box to a metal support behind the LCD. Plug the factory cables (LVDS and black power connector) back into the LCD and reinstall it and put the bezel back on. Now the fun part. You have to extend 2 cables to the arm rest. One for your USB and the other for the audio. Route the USB and 3.5 mm cables down past the heater control area and into the space where the cup holder goes. Follow the harness right down the center of the cup holder area to avoid interference with the cup holder. The framework that holds the control knob needs to be unscrewed (4 T20 screws) and then pull up the front end (2 clamps at the front right and left corners. Once you do that you will see a small notch at the front of the armrest compartment. There is just enough clearance to route your audio cable and either your lightning cable or USB extension through this notch and close the framework back up. Wiggle the cords to make sure they're not pinched. I left the end of the lightning cable in the armrest compartment. The red protective cover that went over the Wi-fi antenna connector is the right size to slip over the end of the cable and prevent it from shorting out inside the compartment. You won't need this USB cable except if you want to run a wired connection. (see below, I ended up running a USB extension to get the actual USB connection in the armrest cubby to allow firmware flashes) The audio connects to the adapter that plugs into the MHI port in the back of the armrest compartment. You'll need a ground loop isolator, (item ID B019FC6ZQQ) or else you will get whining noises in the audio. Put the control knob and cup holder assembly back in. Don't forget to throw a towel back over this to prevent scratching the wood. Take the wi-fi antenna and route it down to the heater control area. There is a horizontal flat spot in the structure behind the heat controls that works great to secure the antenna. Reinstall the heater controls. Now all that is left is to plug the connections back into the radio and work it back into the opening. This takes a little bit of patience. The best place for the factory Quadlock is down low behind the heater controls. You may have to put the radio in part way and reach through the vent opening and down behind the radio to help get things where they need to go to allow the radio to seat flush. Don't force it, if it won't set in easy, you are pinching something. Put your vent back in and you're done except for some programming. If you don't want the factory MB voice (who does?) then go into Engineering Mode on the head unit (press and hold 'end call' + '1' + '#' buttons for 10 seconds). Navigate (using the console knob) to menu 7.7 (HU Parameter), then scroll down to find SDS/TTS in the list. Select this and choose Disable. Now hit the Back button until you're back at the root menu, then find menu 9 (Reset) and run this. It does not factory default the HU, this just reboots the unit. This is necessary to make it accept the changes. **new content 4 April 2022, after living with it for a month or so...** I was having problems with it connecting and staying connected. Turns out you have to be within about a foot of the wifi antenna for wireless CarPlay to work effectively (or maybe it's just where I mounted the wifi antenna, above the climate controls). If I leave my phone on the belt clip on my left side (in a USA LHD car) it had a hard time connecting. Once I realized this and put the phone in the cup holder or center console it works flawlessly. If I get motivated enough to pull the radio out again I may try moving the antenna but that's a big job, vs just taking the phone off my belt and putting it in the cup holder/arm rest cubby. Go ahead and get a short (2 ft) USB 2.0 extension, you will want the USB port extended out to the armrest cubby so you can flash the firmware if needed. Be sure to use a USB 2.0 cable, the USB 3.0 cables are too fat and you don't need the extra USB 3.0 wires anyway. If your head unit doesn't have the AUX as one of the audio choices then go into engineering mode and look for the menu to enable it. Be sure to do the 9. Reset afterward or it won't accept the changes.
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Reviewed in the United States on February 25, 2022 by Jay Guditis
Style: for C/CLA/GLA/GLK/ML/GL
UPDATE: I’ve owned this for a few months now, and the system got worse over time. It’s now at the point where I have to re-add my phone to CarPlay every single time I want to connect. I contacted Road Top’s support to see if it was something that could be solved via software update, and they refused to help me because I purchased it through their Amazon store. Do not waste your money! I have to “forget Bluetooth device” almost every time I start this system up and re-add it to CarPlay, and it rarely automatically opens. I don’t know whether I got a dud but it’s extremely frustrating. When CarPlay does work though, it’s pretty smooth and a good experience.
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Reviewed in the United States on June 18, 2026 by Lawrence Fitz-Simon
Style: for C/CLA/GLA/GLK/ML/GL
Device works and functions as described. I opted to not hardwire the audio as you can use it with your factory bluetooth audo, and that simplifies install. I have only two complaints keeping it from being 5 stars. First, and the biggest one, this is a NIGHTMARE to install. Every video online, including the one from the manufacturer, skips over the hardest part, which is reassembling everything with the added bulk of the new wiring harnesses. The harness provided to connnect the back of the factory radio is way too short, making tucking it somwhere that it does not get in the way next to impossible. I am a 4x ASE master mechanic, and do this for a living, and this still took me about 3 hours. You 100% need to remove the entire glovebox and lower kick panel on the passenger side to have any hope of finding a good place to put the box. Please, do yourself a huge favor and TEST EVERYTHING before putting it back together. This will take you hours to get back together, and if it doesnt work you will want to just give up. My other issue was with the manual. My display was listed in the manual as 5 inch, but its actually 7, so it did not work at first due to the dip switches being in the wrong setting. That is an easy fix, but I did not figure it out for almost 4 days, and support from the seller is very slow to respond. They were helpful, and figured out my issue, but my interior was disassembled waiting for a response from them for 3 days, and I had to use my other car to get to work. At the end of the day, I'm happy I got it, I'm happy with how it works so far, but I would not install another one of these for anything under $1000. That was the biggest nightmare I've had in a while, and I would 100% not recommend it to a novice or someone who does not have at least a little experience with running wires and interior disassembly, as the interior of your car needs to come apart WAYYYYY more than you would initially think.
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Reviewed in the United States on March 31, 2026 by Micho C.
Style: for C/CLA/GLA/GLK/ML/GL
I purchased my 2015 GLA 250 CPO as a bare-bones (no options) well-priced entry point for Mercedes. But, I quickly learned that I needed a backup camera and the so-called "infotainment system" was not very good at providing info (nor entertainment)! (NTG 4.5) I had no navigation, no backup camera, pretty much nothing but a radio and an input for an iPod. It left me using my Android phone for pretty much everything and nothing was integrated with the car. I purchased this unit and I must admit it took me something like a week to install. Granted, I didn't need the car for the week and it was 95 degrees in the shade sometimes, so I didn't spend a lot of time on it each day. But, this installation is not for the faint of heart. It is actually very simple in terms of connections, but taking your Mercedes apart can be tedious and scary. I would watch YouTube videos for different types of installations showing how the different parts of the car were put together, and carefully do one section at a time until I had my entire dash and tailgate carefully disassembled. It was a frightening sight but it all went back together beautifully! I added two cameras: a front camera in the emblem and a rear camera in the rear hatch-latch (each purchased on Amazon for under $40). These work GREAT! When I shift into reverse, the rear view pops up on the screen and when I shift into drive it switches to the front camera for 10 seconds. This is absolutely awesome for parallel-parking in tight spaces. I am having some trouble with connecting to Android Auto; it only seems to work 1 in 3 times or so. But, I have come to realize it is my phone because my husband's phone (we both have Moto Z3s) connects every time. I might reset or replace my phone sometime soon because I expect that will resolve itself with a change of phones. My phone has been acting weirdly in other ways lately, so I am pretty sure something is messed up with my phone. There are two options I wish this unit had in order to make it absolutely perfect: 1. an interface to an OBD2 scanner. Android Auto has no app for that (DUH??) so it would be nice if I could view my real-time dash information on the unit (notice in my photo I have my phone mounted below the stock screen, running Torque Pro). 2. an add-on inline DVR that could record images from the camera. Like, a pass-thru RCA in/out that captures the camera feed as it goes through the unit. That would turn my front camera into a "dash" cam but very unobtrusively. I cannot imagine such a thing doesn't already exist, but I haven't been able to find anything that will do that. The manufacturer points out that they support dashcam standards, but I'm looking not to use my dashcam as the camera feed, but the camera feed as my dash cam. Hope that makes sense. Both these features would be really nice to have, but this thing is an awesome upgrade as it is already. I got what was probably $1200 worth of functionality for $300 (plus a bunch of sweat & swearing). The instructions were perfectly adequate for what needed to be done. I never needed any support so I cannot comment on that. Overall, I am thrilled!
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Reviewed in the United States on July 27, 2021 by Christine from Philly
Style: for C/CLA/GLA/GLK/ML/GL
Updated review, Update month 5. Okay, having lived with the unit for over 4 months+ I have come to the solid conclusion to remove the unit and returning to factory. I started having too many ghost issues. For what ever the reason this unit has had an effect on the modules it is connected too. Scan after scan I would reset codes only to have them return. After removing the unit everything went away. Not sure what to say other than nothing wrong with using the Bluetooth.. Update month 2: The unit is draining the battery of the car when the vehicle is rested for a few weeks. After running circuit by circuit tests we found this unit does not fully shut down and had instances where after the vehicle has set over night the box would be very hot from the heat generated from inside overnight processing. For me this unit is coming out of the car. Shame. It was working quite nicely. I reached out to those folks and never got a response. Another Chinese electronic. Rebranded….for all I know it was back dooring my network…. 1st review: The install is a bit advanced. Having an above normal mechanical and electrical aptitude this was a two hour project. There is a lot going on with this system. Had to play with the DIP switches to get the screen to work. After figuring this out it worked flawlessly. I do recommend tying the grounds together shown as optional on the can bus leads. Absolutely love this. I now enjoy Car play. Great addition. Good product.
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Reviewed in the United States on April 5, 2022 by Amazonisthebest
Style: for C/CLA/GLA/GLK/ML/GL
After watching several excellent videos on removing the Command module (audio/navigation) from the center console of my 2014 Mercedes SL550 (R231), the installation was straightforward and hassle-free. This aftermarket CarPlay solution performs better than the factory CarPlay in my Honda Pilot. I've experienced zero issues: the sound quality is noticeably superior to the stock system, and everything functions exactly as expected. Even though my SL is over 10 years old, it feels thoroughly modern in every respect—except for the original audio and navigation system. Adding CarPlay transforms the car, bringing it fully up to date, and represents incredible value for the money. Roadtop's customer support is extremely responsive, just as many others have reported on forums like mbworld.com.
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Reviewed in the United States on December 16, 2025 by AT77498
Style: for C/CLA/GLA/GLK/ML/GL
I was able to figure out how to install this with a friend. The instructions that it comes with are not too clear but we were able to figure it out. After installing it, it seemed to work fine. BUT a week later it doesnt work every time I turn the car on. I noticed on hotter days that it does not switch to carplay and instead I get a black screen. I would un-install this but it took almost 4 hours to install and unintalling it would require removing a lot of interior panels again.
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Reviewed in the United States on September 10, 2024 by Monte Ong
Style: for C/CLA/GLA/GLK/ML/GL
I've been using this for almost 5 years and it is pretty much trouble free. The backup camera works fine, and installation in an SLK was straightforward, main thing was to get bluetooth antenna somewhere where it wasn't shielded by metal. Had a few initial issues with setup, but TS sent a newer software version and so far only minor issues; TS was very responsive. Biggest issue is sometimes wireless doesn't immediately connect, however by exiting the system and returning to the menu fixes that; and it isn't occurring often enough to be more than a minor annoyance. Wired connections work just fine. I ran an extension to the storage compartment between the seats with an USB-A plug to plug in wirelessly and hide the plug. I have not updated the software in 4 years, mainly because it works and my theory on upgrades if it works fine don't bother. It works fine with the latest beta iOS 26.1. I gave it 4 stars instead of 5 because of the occasional glitches connecting wirelessly. I can recommend this as a way to add CarPlay to an SLK.
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Reviewed in the United States on December 1, 2025 by Just a user...