Road Top Wireless CarPlay & Android Auto Retrofit Kit for Mercedes-Benz C/E/GLK/ML/CLA/GLA/CLS/SLK 2012-2015, NTG4.5/4.7 System, AUX Required, CarPlay Interface Decoder, MirrorLink, Camera Support
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Availability:
17 left in stock
Arrives
Monday, Jun 22
Style: for C/CLA/GLA/GLK/ML/GL
Features
- 1. Compatibility & AUX Requirement: Professional CarPlay retrofit for Mercedes-Benz C-Class / E-Class / GLK / ML / CLA / GLA / CLS / SLK (20122015) with NTG4.5 / NTG4.7 system ONLY. AUX function is required in Mercedes-Benz vehicles for audio output. please confirm AUX before purchase. Not compatible with NTG5.0 system
- 2. Wireless CarPlay & Android Auto Upgrade: Upgrade your factory system in Mercedes-Benz with wireless CarPlay and Android Auto.Hands-free calls, music & messages.Support for Google Maps, for Waze, for Spotify.Support for Siri voice control. Smart CarPlay upgrade for Mercedes-Benz drivers
- 3. CarPlay Interface Decoder Not a Screen.This is a CarPlay interface decoder module for Mercedes-Benz, NOT a display screen. Connects to the original CD host in Mercedes-Benz via cables. Retains full OEM system. Adds modern smart features. Reliable CarPlay interface for Mercedes-Benz retrofit.
- 4. OEM Control & Seamless Switching: Keep full factory control in your car with this CarPlay & Android Auto adapter. Long press knob button to switch systems.Supports steering wheel & control knob. Fully compatible with the original system in Mercedes-Benz.Smooth OEM-style CarPlay integration for Mercedes-Benz.
- 5. Camera & Expansion Support: Supports factory & aftermarket backup camera for Mercedes-Benz. Compatible with 360 camera & DVR (CVBS input). Works with parking radar systems in Mercedes-Benz vehicles. Advanced CarPlay retrofit module for Mercedes-Benz
- 6. Installation & After-Sales Support: Installation requires removing dashboard in Mercedes-Benz vehicles and connecting cables.Step-by-step guidance for CarPlay retrofit for Mercedes-Benz.Support for AUX setup, wiring & connection issues. Fast technical support response. Dependable after-sales support for your car CarPlay upgrade
Brand: Road Top
Connectivity Technology: Bluetooth
Controller Type: Android
Special Feature: Built-In Bluetooth
Compatible Devices: Smartphone
Connector Type: USB
Audio Output Mode: Stereo
Surround Sound Channel Configuration: 4.1
Output Power: 45 Watts
Number of Channels: 4
Connectivity Technology: Bluetooth
Controller Type: Android
Other Special Features of the Product: Built-In Bluetooth
Compatible Devices: Smartphone
Connector Type: USB
Audio Output Mode: Stereo
Surround Sound Channel Configuration: 4.1
Output Power: 45 Watts
Number of Channels: 4
Output Wattage: 45 Watts
Supported Internet Services: YouTube
Control Method: Voice
Audio Output Type: RCA, Speakers
Wireless Technology: Bluetooth
Format: 4K, Dolby
Brand: Road Top
Model Number: 32a04258-c120-45c8-81b1-ef4061c255a1
Manufacturer: Road Top
UPC: 763684288682
Mfr Part Number: Carplay-mbntg4
Built-In Media: carplay box
Frequently asked questions
If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is:
Monday, Jun 22
Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
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Similar Products
Top Amazon Reviews
Style: for C/CLA/GLA/GLK/ML/GL
This will allow you to have modern Apple/Android functionality on your legacy stereo. Sharing install experiences for others (I have a 2013 E350, other 1st generation E-class models should be similar). I'm in the USA, so I have a LHD car, not sure if this works out for RHD cars. Before you forget, go ahead and set the DIP switches according to the manual. You will need to know if you have the 5.8" or 7" screen, set the switches per the instructions, depending on what screen you have. Also go ahead and attach the two black ground wires together (one from the main harness and the other from the USB harness). You won't get audio if you don't do this, and it's much easier to take care of it beforehand. You'll need to remove the LCD, center vent trim, the radio, the heater controller, the sliding cover/cup holder, and the control knob. Plenty of videos on YT for that. I highly recommend temporarily plugging everything in outside the dashboard, to make sure it all works correctly. If you do this, go ahead and put the center vent trim in position (don't lock it in, just rest it there) and plug in the switches, or else the car will throw errors about a hazard flasher malfunction since it can't find the hazard switch. Don't forget to move the fiber over from the original Quadlock connector to the Quadlock in the harness. The release clip is tiny, it's in the top of the connector. Once you release that the two fibers come out in a black connector. Don't try to take out the individual fibers. Be careful, these are plastic fiber, not as fragile as a glass cable, but still can be easily broken if roughly handled. Once you're sure it's working then take everything back apart and start actually installing it. Here are the best ways I found to route things on my car. I located the control box behind the LCD. That is the only decent place I found that had enough room and allowed the cables to reach. Now starting from the radio cavity, thread the wifi antenna connector, and the white connectors from the two harnesses, past the vent flanges, on the left side. Tuck the wires behind the vent flange on the left side. Take the LVDS cable and run it down the right side the same way. Think of it like a V, the bottom of the V goes to the control box and the two tails stay in the radio cavity. Plug the cables into the control box, working inside the monitor cavity. Now place the control box in position behind the LCD. I had the white connector end pointed down and wifi antenna connector pointing up. It was able to tuck into a recess that extended toward the passenger side. I took a big zip tie and was able to secure the control box to a metal support behind the LCD. Plug the factory cables (LVDS and black power connector) back into the LCD and reinstall it and put the bezel back on. Now the fun part. You have to extend 2 cables to the arm rest. One for your USB and the other for the audio. Route the USB and 3.5 mm cables down past the heater control area and into the space where the cup holder goes. Follow the harness right down the center of the cup holder area to avoid interference with the cup holder. The framework that holds the control knob needs to be unscrewed (4 T20 screws) and then pull up the front end (2 clamps at the front right and left corners. Once you do that you will see a small notch at the front of the armrest compartment. There is just enough clearance to route your audio cable and either your lightning cable or USB extension through this notch and close the framework back up. Wiggle the cords to make sure they're not pinched. I left the end of the lightning cable in the armrest compartment. The red protective cover that went over the Wi-fi antenna connector is the right size to slip over the end of the cable and prevent it from shorting out inside the compartment. You won't need this USB cable except if you want to run a wired connection. (see below, I ended up running a USB extension to get the actual USB connection in the armrest cubby to allow firmware flashes) The audio connects to the adapter that plugs into the MHI port in the back of the armrest compartment. You'll need a ground loop isolator, (item ID B019FC6ZQQ) or else you will get whining noises in the audio. Put the control knob and cup holder assembly back in. Don't forget to throw a towel back over this to prevent scratching the wood. Take the wi-fi antenna and route it down to the heater control area. There is a horizontal flat spot in the structure behind the heat controls that works great to secure the antenna. Reinstall the heater controls. Now all that is left is to plug the connections back into the radio and work it back into the opening. This takes a little bit of patience. The best place for the factory Quadlock is down low behind the heater controls. You may have to put the radio in part way and reach through the vent opening and down behind the radio to help get things where they need to go to allow the radio to seat flush. Don't force it, if it won't set in easy, you are pinching something. Put your vent back in and you're done except for some programming. If you don't want the factory MB voice (who does?) then go into Engineering Mode on the head unit (press and hold 'end call' + '1' + '#' buttons for 10 seconds). Navigate (using the console knob) to menu 7.7 (HU Parameter), then scroll down to find SDS/TTS in the list. Select this and choose Disable. Now hit the Back button until you're back at the root menu, then find menu 9 (Reset) and run this. It does not factory default the HU, this just reboots the unit. This is necessary to make it accept the changes. **new content 4 April 2022, after living with it for a month or so...** I was having problems with it connecting and staying connected. Turns out you have to be within about a foot of the wifi antenna for wireless CarPlay to work effectively (or maybe it's just where I mounted the wifi antenna, above the climate controls). If I leave my phone on the belt clip on my left side (in a USA LHD car) it had a hard time connecting. Once I realized this and put the phone in the cup holder or center console it works flawlessly. If I get motivated enough to pull the radio out again I may try moving the antenna but that's a big job, vs just taking the phone off my belt and putting it in the cup holder/arm rest cubby. Go ahead and get a short (2 ft) USB 2.0 extension, you will want the USB port extended out to the armrest cubby so you can flash the firmware if needed. Be sure to use a USB 2.0 cable, the USB 3.0 cables are too fat and you don't need the extra USB 3.0 wires anyway. If your head unit doesn't have the AUX as one of the audio choices then go into engineering mode and look for the menu to enable it. Be sure to do the 9. Reset afterward or it won't accept the changes.
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Reviewed in the United States on February 25, 2022 by Jay Guditis
Style: for C/CLA/GLA/GLK/ML/GL
I was able to figure out how to install this with a friend. The instructions that it comes with are not too clear but we were able to figure it out. After installing it, it seemed to work fine. BUT a week later it doesnt work every time I turn the car on. I noticed on hotter days that it does not switch to carplay and instead I get a black screen. I would un-install this but it took almost 4 hours to install and unintalling it would require removing a lot of interior panels again.
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Reviewed in the United States on September 10, 2024 by Monte Ong
Style: for E
There are a few usability quirks, but overall this device provides a very good wireless CarPlay experience. The wireless connects quickly, the inputs are responsive, the audio quality is good, phone call quality is acceptable. The factory backup camera continues to work as expected. I installed this in my 2012 S212 E350 wagon with NTG 4.5/4.7. Other than tricky cable and space management, the install was straightforward with the biggest challenge caused by the instructions being wrong regarding what connections are required vs optional. I have only used the device for wireless CarPlay so I cannot comment on the wired CarPlay, Android, AirPlay, HDMI, or YouTube functions. Regarding the install: In my S212, the easiest place to put the box was directly behind the display screen standing upright. In this location, the CAN harness, USB, and LVDS cables connect to the top of the box arching outward in a heart shape, and the antenna connects at the bottom. In this position the box is sandwiched snug between the display and the framing supporting the dashboard and padded with the factory insulation, so no rattles! I fed the CAN harness up from below on the left side of the AC ducts and the LVDS cable up from below on the right side of the AC ducts. The USB cable I also fed down right side and out into the passenger foot well where the carpet meets the console. The antenna I sat below the screen atop the plastic AC duct at the back of the open space. Sliding the main radio all the way back into place was tricky. The only way I was able to do this was to place the large wiring harness junction (where the factory harness connects with the provided interposer harness) at the far back right of the radio bay. To get enough slack to do that I unwrapped the tape around the factory wiring harness and separated the MOST fibers from the rest of the wires so that they could still reach their connector on the back of the radio. As you slide the radio back, periodically pause and reach (or use a trim removal tool or other stick) behind the radio to ensure the wires are where they should be and not binding or pinching anywhere. The instructions are wrong or misleading in two ways: First, the instructions plainly say that it is NOT required to connect the two ground wires of the two harnesses that come off of the box together (audio ground and chassis ground). The instructions say this MAY improve audio quality/reduce buzz but that it IS NOT necessary. Not so!! I got NO SOUND at all from the CarPlay box until I connected these grounds together. This was very frustrating and added hours to my install time. I was about to pull the whole thing out and return it! Next, the instructions imply that it is required to run the long audio cable through the center console into the compartment to connect to the MMI auxiliary input. During my install I had run this cable into the passenger footwell and tucked it behind the console trim where it meets the carpet, intending to snake it into the console box. However, this can be avoided entirely because the head unit has a separate AUX input (versus the MMI aux) that the wiring harness is already connected to! To use this input, one must enter the Engineering Menu on the head unit (hold #, 1, and hang up buttons for several seconds), disable UCI (MMI) input in the TGW Parameter (if enabled, param 7.5.5) and then turn ON the AUX input in the HU Parameter menu (param 7.7.4). Next, reset the head unit (menu 9.1) and when it restarts selecting the Aux input will now use the rear input instead of the MMI input in the console. The long audio cable will not be required! But be careful to isolate the connector because it will induce a hum or buzz if it touches or comes near sources of interference. It would probably be best to snip this cable out of the harness if you feel you have the skill to do so. I’ve had this installed for three weeks now and have used it during normal driving as well as over a 28-hour-straight road trip and the only issue that I have had was that in one instance after getting fuel, CarPlay would not start despite my iPhone showing as connected. There is a “reset CarPlay” option in the menu of the unit which will force-restart the CarPlay feature and doing that cleared up the issue immediately. I have not had any overheating problems despite being in 100°+ California weather. The voice command button on the steering wheel will now trigger Siri but it will also trigger the factory Mercedes voice command which will cause a conflict; apparently you can disable the factory voice command in the radio engineering menu as well which will allow Siri to work, however I haven’t done this. Overall I am happy with it!
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Reviewed in the United States on October 21, 2023 by strb strb