FLSUN S1 Pro 3D Printer Moving Speed Fastest 1200mm/s,40000+ mm/s² FDM Delta 3D Printer with 7" Klipper Firmware Smart Zone Heating,350℃Metal Hotend,Filament Dryer Box,Printing Size Φ320*320 * 430 mm³
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Availability:
Only 3 left in stock, order soon!
Arrives
Monday, Jun 23
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Size: FLSUN S1 Pro
Features
- Ultra-high printing speed saves time1200mm/s maximum speed and 40,000mm/s2 acceleration, the printing speed is several times higher than that of ordinary 3D printers, the ultra-stable delta structure reduces printing vibration, and the printing accuracy and model details are very high.
- Monitoring and ControlFor the first time, more precise control and monitoring modules are added, using advanced Microtac radar control and WIFI real-time connection. With the visual operation interface, smart adjustment and monitoring can be realized on mobile phones and PCs to ensure printing quality and accuracy.
- Simple operationthe device self-checks to maintain the stability of the printer, and automatic leveling makes operation easier. The whole machine can be used within 10 minutes after delivery. It has a low printing noise of 55db, a simple and easy-to-use operation interface, and the machine supports power-off continuous printing and vibration compensation to ensure smooth printing and quality.
- High applicabilitythe all-metal hot end can reach up to 350C, and with the latest built-in new temperature control pad, the temperature is always stable. The ultra-high temperature multi-metal integrated throat nozzle is suitable for ABS, ASA, PC, PA, PETG, PLA and other consumables. It also supports high-performance consumables such as PPS-CF, PPA-CF/GF and a variety of nozzle sizes.
- Large printing spacemeet the needs of large parts printing, 320*320*430 mm3 large printing volume, support multi-model printing
Brand: FLSUN
Material: Metal
Color: Black
Product Dimensions: 21.6"D x 23.4"W x 40.5"H
Item Weight: 113 Pounds
Product Dimensions: 21.6 x 23.4 x 40.5 inches
Item Weight: 113 pounds
Date First Available: January 4, 2025
Manufacturer: FLSUN
Country of Origin: China
Frequently asked questions
If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is:
Monday, Jun 23
Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
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Top Amazon Reviews
First week review 4/13/2020, will update over time: Assembly was a breeze out of the box. Albeit, my extruder stepper motor was not factory installed which the manual does not talk about installation. In the bag of screws (not the bag of extras), take two of the tiny screws out and use those to mount the assembled titan-clone bowden extruder I made sure to inspect all of the screws that were installed by the factory. I checked the z-stops at the top of the printer and needed to tighten the screws. I made sure to tighten the screws holding the 3 sides of rods for the top and bottom. I also checked the screws holding the arms to the platform. The stepper motors holders in the bottom case also were checked. If not tight, these holders might warp over time. So it's definitely a good idea to check everything yourself that was factory assembled, to avoid potential problems over time. Turned on the printer, plugged the included usb cable into my printer with stock out of the box firmware and my raspberry pi 3 model b loaded with OctoPrint, it connected immediately no problem (YMMV, power off on again if not connecting, maybe reflash the firmware). I left the connection settings to AUTO. For reference, the serial port I see connected is /dev/ttyUSB0 with baudrate at 115200 and printer profile default. I autoleveled the bed using the included autolevel switch that is held to the hotend platform by a magnet, with all heaters turned off. Then I pressed the adjust Z=0 height button on screen and the platform lowered to the autolevel z_0 point. I got a plain piece of printer paper and slid it under the nozzle on the bed and adjusted the platform down until there was slight resistance sliding the paper back and forth. That's a good z=0 height, so I pressed save and the platform homed back to the top position. Within minutes I was printing my first benchy with the included 200g of (190c hotend, 60c bed) white filament. Note: Its fans are quiet The Flsun qq-s pro (this model, with the highly accurate autolevel *switch*) is by comparison is equivalent to my gaming pc fans running in quiet mode. Out of the box printer calibration is accurate to a few mm off, make sure the arms bearings are screwed tight, print a calibration cube to confirm for yours. Mine was 2mm off out of the box. There is a very active fb owners group with new firmware and an unofficial Marlin firmware and many models and useful knowledge faq guide in the files section. I did not need to flash any firmware, only needed firmware that was factory installed stock. There are many models for this printer on thingiverse (flsun qq, flsun qq-s, pro) and I printed some of them to improve the aesthetic of the printer design. Included are pictures of the outcome. I installed 8-diodes TL-smoothers and they improved my prints, no more salmon skin effect caused by the stepper motors drivers providing not smooth power to the stepper motors. This printer uses a4988 stepper motor drivers which are affected by this easily mitigated issue with 8-diodes TL-smoothers. These diodes prevent power going back to the drivers from the motor and redirects it back to the motor. Included are pictures of the TL-smoothers in place with the controller board. This panel was accessed on the bottom of the printer. You will also find the power supply input voltage switch in here (115V or 220V). For US switch to 115V before turning on the printer. So far this is a fantastic addition to my collection of delta 3D printers. --- Update 4/24/2020 (week 2) The printer is still making fantastic prints. I cleaned the bed with isopropyl alcohol to clean off any fingerprints and debris that led to poor filament adhesion after a week of use. This restored great adhesion to the bed like new again. I am using Cura 4.5.0 with the OctoPrint plugin to generate gcode procedures from models and send the job to OctoPrint. I calibrated my extruder's e-steps per mm. The initial factory stock value for my extruder steps per mm was 367 according to M205 output. I marked the position of the filament 50mm from the stepper motor top and compared after it was done. For me, I overridden the value to the standard 415 steps per mm because when I told the printer to extrude 50mm it only extruded 45mm and the calculation from the faq guide adapted to my numbers was 367*50/44=417, this could be different for your printer. As for Cura 4.5.0 settings that worked best for my printer 0.4 nozzle with amazonbasics pla 1.75mm filament: initial layer height: 0.3 outer before inner walls: yes compensate wall overlaps: yes z seam alignment: sharpest corner seam corner preference: hide seam or smart hiding infill before walls: yes printing temperature (hotend): 225 ; hot for pla, yet amazonbasics pla is stubborn to melt in my environment; 230 for petg ; ymmv build plate temperature (bed): 70 ; hot for pla, yet this pla would not stick at 60 and somewhat stick at 65; 90 for petg ; ymmv flow: 100 ; this is after I calibrated my e-stops steps per mm initial layer flow: 100 ; this is after I calibrated my e-stops steps per mm print speed: 250 ; this is the max I use for ok draft quality, I make it go slower if I want more quality, ymmv, I keep it at 150 for good draft quality and less than 100 for even better quality with pla, make this slow for petg wall speed: auto calculated ; sometimes I set it slower if I want more quality initial layer speed 50 ; I slow this down if I see bad bed adhesion, or I stop the job and clean the bed thoroughly equalize filament flow: yes enable acceleration control: yes (update: on Marlin I disabled this) print acceleration: 3000 enable jerk control: yes (update: on Marlin I disabled this) print jerk: 40 enable retraction: yes ; ymmv, could be less stringing in prints retraction distance: 7.5 ; ymmv (update: worked for my pla) retraction speed: 70 ; ymmv (update: worked for my pla, for petg definitely slow this down to around 25) combing mode: not in skin retract before outer wall: yes avoid printed parts when traveling: yes avoid supports when traveling: yes z-hop when retracted: yes ; ymmv (update: may cause bumps on print, then set no) fan speed: 100% (I printed better air baffles and now I use 30% for pla and off for petg) minimum layer time: 2 lift head: yes build plate adhesion type: none ; (sometimes I use skirt or brim, I look at model height, definitely brim for petg) As for the start gcode, I used a post on the fb group that makes the platform go to the bed edge of the logo, extrude 30mm to clear the extruder making a mound, hop up, move to the left, and tap the plate to cut off the string. Then it continues with the rest of the job. It's pretty cool start gcode to watch in person. Experimental settings ymmv: infill travel optimization: yes enable coasting: yes ; ymmv (update: I set this to no for better quality) enable bridge settings: yes use adaptive layers: yes ; I set no when I want a faster print and quality does not matter, it has made beautiful prints for me when there are curves over z-height in a model (update: I don't use this with Marlin) So far, printing with this 3D printer is still a joy and I'm happy there were no problems after two weeks of heavy use. --- Update 7/21/2020 (month 3) Flashed open source Marlin firmware over the stock firmware on the board to gain linear advance pressure control, much improved advanced unified bed leveling for much better bed adhesion, and bed correction via the fade height feature. I also noticed several prints had wavy outer walls due to the infill pattern showing through the walls. I increased the wall thickness to have smooth walls on prints. I re-lubed the smooth rods the pulleys assemblies slide up / down through with dry lube PTFE spray and that stopped the noise from the rods I added a Wyze camera (flashed wifi disabled usb-a only firmware) rotated 90 degrees to view the whole print area of the machine and created a design mount to print that's published on Thingiverse. Wear: Hundreds of prints later, the nozzle has degraded in print quality due to wear and soon I will replace it with the spare whole hot-end assembly that came in the box with the printer. When the spare wears out I will upgrade to a full E3D V6 hot-end assembly. I am going to upgrade the bowden PTFE tube to a creality capricorn tube for its heat resistance at higher extruder temperatures to prevent PTFE carbonization/fumes exposure. So far, this is still a great printer and it is aging with normal wear from so much use.
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Reviewed in the United States on April 18, 2020 by Mark
I got the Q5 at the end of July. It's now the end of January, so this review is after about half a year of ownership and pretty heavy use. This printer was a gift for my younger son who was about to enter high school with a robotics program and team. My older son (an engineering major in college) has a lot fof 3d printing experience from school, but my younger son and i are total newbs. This was our first 3d printer. Since then we added an Ender 3V2 (black friday special) and a Sovol SV01. So i'm writing this review with about half a year of "experience" total, and two other popular printers to compare to. Q5 Assembly and first print(s). Super easy. FLSun did a great job of seeding review units to some youtubers (although not the best known ones), and just about every video included a detailed walkthrough of the assembly. My younger son watched a couple of those and had the thing up and running in under half an hour, and he was specifically going slow because it was his first time building. Once build, initial setup is just as easy. Auto leveling was a breeze. Attach the little sensor to the magnet, and about 5-6 minutes later you're done. The printer then prompts you to take off the sensor and to adjust the Z height (another minute if that) and that's it. Ready to print. It took another 4-5 minutes for everything to warm up, so about a 45 minute total from opening the box to seeing the first layer laid down. All done by a 14 year old newb purposely going slow. Like i said - super easy. Print quality is surprisingly good. The elephant and the nut/bolt combo that came on the SD card looked great to me, but then again this was my first experience with a 3d printer so i didn't exactly have a point of reference. The big surprise was how much my older son (the engineering student) was impressed by the prints. Immediately after the first two prints from the card finished, he sliced up his own models that he previously printed in the college lab using a Raise3D printer. He's the type that doesn't care about finish, and is all about accuracy and proper tolerances. After measuring and re-measuring his prototypes, he declared the printer to be "good". Tiny desk footprint. It's only after i got the other two printers that i truly started appreciating just how little room the Q5 takes up on a desk or a counter. My other printers tend to "spread out". They need room for a display on one side, the spool on the other side, plus the room and clearances needed for the bed to move back and forth etc. The Q5 is completely self contained in a triangle with 13" (about) sides. It takes up no room compared to my other printers, and is much easier to move around. It turned out to be a workhorse. Both my kids' high school and college have well equipped labs with some of the best commercial printers on the market from Makerbot etc. But due to the pandemic everything is online so they had no access to them. Between the two of them, they worked this printer like a mule. I had some things i wanted to print, and wife had discovered that this thing can make some great looking planters, so there came a point where to use the printer you had to fight someone "gladiator style". We worked it hard, but it just kept on printing. Sadly, it was quickly outgrown. A 200mm diameter is not that much of a build space. If you want to print something square, the print area is really around 140x140mm. Because all the electronics are on top, and the bottom of the top panel is perforated letting all the hot air in - you can never properly enclose this printer. You can put an enclosure around it, but the all electronics inside will start to bake, especially since they're on the very top where all the hot air tends to build up. My younger son wanted a bigger build plate, while my older one wanted the ability to reliably print ABS (requires enclosure). But that's not the big reason why the printer was outgrown. It was due to lack of ubiquity for parts and lack of access to knowledge base and support. As of now, one of them uses the Ender while the other one has the Sovol. They have completely abandoned the Q5, which i don't mind - it's mine now :) Ubiquity has value. It was only after i got the Ender that i realized how much value there is in ubiquity. Replacement and upgrade parts are much easier to find and source. Amazon has great variety of anything and everything you could possible need. Even my local Microcenter carries the majority of parts one would ever need to service or upgrade their Ender. Not so with the Q5. Some parts you can replace/upgrade just like on any other printers. Other parts are custom and are semi-proprietary. For example, the hotend is a V6 clone, but it's not like any other clone and has proprietary mounting. If you wanted to upgrade your hotend to another/better clone or a real deal from E3D you would need to perform some "metal surgery". Holes will need to be drilled and tapped in metal etc. Not impossible, but not an easy procedure and one that required tools that we don't have. Flsun does have a store where they sell spare parts, and their prices are pretty good. But shipping is slow, and since some of the parts cannot be found elsewhere - you will have no choice but to wait a while for a replacement. For example, my Q5 needed a replacement heating block - a $1 part on FLSun's website. At the moment it's out of stock. There are no compatible replacements available on Amazon (according to Flsun support). I did get in touch with their support and they will be shipping me a new block, but it will take two weeks to arrive. Had i needed a heating block for an Ender, i could take a ride to Microcenter and have it on hand in like 20 minutes. Like i said - there is value in ubiquity. Lack of access to knowledge base and lack of community outside of Facebook. The "good stuff" is on Facebook. Firmware, test files, and all kinds of documentation and help from other users is on the Flsun facebook group. The group, from what i hear, is a phenomenal resource. However, this printer was bought for a 14 year old. He's not on facebook and neither is his brother. Both have no desire to join , and i don't blame them. I left facebook years ago. The only one in our family that still uses FB is grandma. Having to give up private information to an evil corporation just to get some help with a 3d printer seems unnecessary. The lack of community and knowledge base outside of facebook was by far and away the biggest reason my kids eventually abandoned this printer. Getting a hold of support is tricky. Even if you do use Facebook, the help there can only go so far. If a part fails and you need warranty service, you will need to get in touch with the company. This is much more difficult then it should be. There came a point where our printer developed "amnesia" and would forget settings like auto-leveling and Z height after a power off/on. I tried emailing support about the problem a number of times over a course of a few months. None of my emails were answered. I eventually did get a hold of support by contacting the seller through Amazon, who gave me a name i needed to add on Skype. If you do need support from them, don't bother emailing, just contact the seller here on Amazon and they will tell you what to do. In contrast, i had no issues getting in touch with Creality when i needed support for my Ender. Sovol was a bit slow to respond, but i didn't have to jump through hoops or use Skype to get a hold of someone. This is one area FLSun definitely needs to improve on. This isn't to say FLSun support is bad, they are actually excellent - once you find them. It's just finding them is..... tricky. Growing pains. Young company dealing in a foreign market, so some growing pains are expected. The engineers did a great job designing this machine. The factory workers did an excellent job building it. The people doing the "groceries" did an admirable job of sourcing parts that allow this thing to come in at a great price. Customer service is ok'ish. However, ease of access to support and knowledge base need to improve dramatically, especially since the company is actively targeting beginners. This is a young company full of smart energetic people - i'm sure they'll figure it out. For now, though, be prepared to deal with some growing pains. To conclude. The obvious question is - would i buy it again, or would i recommend it to a friend etc. ? The answer is both yes and no. No, i would not buy it again for my kids. The lack of ubiquitous parts for upgrades and the fact that all the "good stuff" is on facebook proved to be deal breakers for them. Yes, i would buy it for me. I don't need to print anything large, or use any exotic materials. The printer works great for my needs. It's small. It's very precise. It's faster then my other printers. It's easy to maintain and so far it has been proven very reliable. And for the price - it's a great value. My only regret in buying the Q5 is that i didn't buy it's bigger brother the QQS-pro. If i was making a recommendation to a friend, i would advise them to consider spending a little more and get the bigger delta if they can afford it.
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Reviewed in the United States on January 23, 2021 by PG