Creality Ender 3 V3 KE 3D Printer, CR Touch Auto Leveling 500mm/s Printing Speed Sprite Direct Extruder Supports 300℃, Dual Fans and X-axis Linear Rail Build Volume 8.66x8.66x9.44 inch
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Arrives
Sunday, Mar 29
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Model: Ender 3 V3 KE
Features
- FASTER INTUITIVE PRINTING EXPERIENCE: Creality Ender 3 V3 KE 3d printer can print at up to speed 500 millimeter per second with acceleration 8000 millimeters per square second, faster than most of printers on the market. You can complete models efficiently, saving time to wait for print jobs. Moreover, it can keep good printing quality at the same time. Responsive touch UI screen with an intuitive tab bar, real-time model preview and vivid motion graphics of printing parameters
- "SPRITE" DIRECT EXTRUDER: 60W ceramic heater, Bi-metal heatbreak and copper nozzle enable 300 degree printing. The "Sprite" Direct Extruder of Ender 3 V3 KE enables smooth feeding of various filaments, including PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU and ASA filaments. And the extruder is market-proven for its reliability, as over 500,000 units have been shipped worldwide
- ULTRA-SMOOTH MOTION AND STABLE STRUCTURE: The stiff steel linear rail on the X-axis has a carriage slide containing ball bearings, which can move smoothly, accurately and steadily. Built out of stiff steel, it will stay as new even after long-time use. The rigid dual Z-axis lead screws reduce Z wobbling effectively, and the Y-axis features two 8 mm linear sharts made of strong and wear-proof steel
- UPGRADED DESIGN: The Creality Ender 3 V3 KE has the smart AIgorithms function, it mitigates the printer's vibrations for minimal ringing or ghosting, optimizes the feeding flow for fewer blobs and oozes. Also, each side of print head has a model cooling fan. They will cool the printing model together rapidly and evenly. You can get the fan in good shape and quickly
- CONVENIENT PRINTING METHOD: It equips CR Touch for auto leveling, performs multi-point detection on the printing platform and records the height of each detection point with high precision. It is easy to get a perfect first layer. Leveling is the important process before printing, it usually make customers in trouble. This printer can save your time in leveling, and easily start to print. Which is friendly to all of customers including the beginners. The Ender 3 V3 KE can print by three ways, phone control, WiFi, and USB drive
Brand: Comgrow
Material: Aluminum
Color: Black
Product Dimensions: 9.44"D x 8.66"W x 9.44"H
Compatible Devices: Laptop, Personal Computer, Smartphone
Product Dimensions: 9.84 x 8.66 x 8.66 inches
Item Weight: 22 pounds
Item model number: Ender 3 V3 KE
Date First Available: May 16, 2025
Manufacturer: Creality 3D
Frequently asked questions
If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is:
Sunday, Mar 29
Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
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Top Amazon Reviews
Model: Ender 3 V3 SE
I am very happy with my Ender 3 V3 SE. It is my first 3D printer, having some experience with them in the past. This printer performed to an excellent standard and required very little setup out of the box. Unfortunately, the SE does not talk to the Creality Print software, and does not have WiFi or Ethernet network connectivity. Basic functionality is through physically moving an SD-card from your computer to the SD slot on the printer. It has a USB-C outlet that can be connected with a data cable to a computer and communicated serially with COM ports and the CH340 communications driver, it’s not complicated, but it’s not a straightforward process. After about 50 prints or so, the bearings on the Y axis optical rails came loose and resulted in a bed wobble that could register on the Richter scale. I upgraded the Y axis and X axis to linear guide rails, I do believe these upgrades are wholly necessary if you wish to print at the printers upper accelerations for any extended period of use. Changing filaments is a breeze with the direct drive extruder, I have printed in PLA, TPU, and PETG all with very good quality, adjusting settings along the way. If you enjoy tinkering, and learning how FDM printers work, how slicers and gcode work, and want a less expensive start to the hobby I would highly recommend the SE printer. I have also heard good things about its sister the KE.
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Reviewed in the United States on January 27, 2026 by Mike Herzog
Model: Ender 3
The Ender 3 marked my entry into the 3D-printing world, and I love it! The 3D printer has been a godsend! If you're also newbie and searching for advice, here's my brief take on the Ender 3. It's awesome! The Ender 3 arrives in pieces that you must assemble. Since it is essentially a robot, assembly can seem overwhelming at first, but if you take it one step at a time, you'll be printing in no time. I found the printed instructions accompanying the unit to be more sizzle than steak, but, fortunately there are several videos on YouTube that make assembly a breeze. Believe it or not, assembling the unit yourself is beneficial because it familiarizes you with the device. It will allow you to easily make the minor adjustments that 3D printers often require. My wife and I have found that 3D printing comes with somewhat of a steep learning curve, but it's fun. YouTube and websites such as "all3DP dot com" have proven themselves to be life savers. The most common adjustments you'll make while 3D printing is "bed leveling." In truth, though, you're not actually "leveling" the print bed, but rather you're ensuring that the print nozzle is uniformly distanced from the bed (the print surface) on all its 4 corners. The nozzle needs to be super close, too. ...not about an inch or two away from the print bed, but rather it needs to be no further than the thickness of a piece of paper. Crazy, huh? When my wife and I printed a test file provided by Creality (the manufacturer), we frankly sat mesmerized at the unit's precision. It was like staring into a campfire and getting lost in the flames. The nozzle just zipped back and forth across the print bed leaving tiny bits of corn-based "plastic" one layer at a time, and eventually (over time) created a cat/dog thingy. In search of more things to print, we settled on two websites with tons of 3D-printable files that are very often free to download. The websites are "thingiverse dot com" and "cults3d dot com". The latter site takes longer to load, but seems to have more options. Creality has one too, but I haven't really checked it out yet. It's important to note that the files you download from such websites are *.stl files, whereas the Ender 3 needs *.gcode files. To make the file conversion, we downloaded a piece of software called Cura. It appears to be the best (free) software on the market for "slicing" 3D files into *.gcode files. That too has a steep learning curve, complete with complicated settings. But fortunately there are lots of tutorials online along with settings you can copy from experts. I mostly rely on "all3DP dot com" for that. After a while, we decided to invent our own designs and then print them into existence. In my opinion, the cat's meow -- the best and easiest 3D design application -- is Fusion360. It has a limited free version for students and schools, but otherwise it's quite pricey. My wife then found free, open-sourced design software called FreeCAD. We love it, and haven't turned back since. The filament we prefer is PLA. In our experience, PLA produces little to no fumes and it's guilt-free because it's corn-based and biodegradable. It should be noted, though, that not all PLA is created equally. This is primarily because (according to what I've read) pigments affect the PLA in different ways. So, when I order PLA from Amazon, I always look for the PLA with the most and highest reviews. Then, I refer upon their temperature recommendations. Overall, we absolutely love the Ender 3. At under $200, it's extremely affordable, and the process of printing things into existence can be (in my experience) somehow transformative. And if you find yourself confused about something, take my advice by not wasting time by trying to figure it out for yourself. Just refer to the experts on any of the websites I mentioned so, later on, you can focus on things that really matter...like design. Note: the bearing on a little fan went out. So, I reached out to Comgrow, they got back to me immediately, and now a new fan is on the way. No fuss no muss. Finally, at the risk of getting to personal, I'm a disabled veteran who benefits from focusing on tangible things. The process of 3D printing has proven itself to be such a godsend in that regard, that I think the VA should seriously explore ways of getting more vets 3D printing. I hope this helped newbies like me. Happy printing!
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Reviewed in the United States on December 11, 2022 by Louie Cruz
Model: Ender 3
You might be able to assemble this printer in a couple of hours but you can't build it in that time. There is a significant difference in building something correctly and assembling it. Assembly is the easy part, anyone can throw things together. The build is now complete and to do it correctly takes 4 to 5 hours. When you stand the Z axis uprights on their ends on a granite surface plate it's clear that the ends aren't machined square. After machining the ends they are square and flat enough to assemble now. The Z axis bracket that the leadscrew nut bolts to was not fully bent so the leadscrew didn't line up with the coupler and had to be straightened to make it parallel to the Z uprights so it would line up with the coupler. Check yours to make sure that bracket was bent at 90 degrees. The two uprights had to be shimmed to get them square to the bottom supports and parallel with each other so that the X axis rail would go up and down in a straight line without binding. Colored plastic shim stock of various thickness and an accurate machinist square is paramount to your success here. Even a small Framing square or a plastic triangle from an office supply store would assist in getting the uprights square to the base. The two uprights have to be parallel to one another and hopefully square to the base in order for the top rail to mate up correctly. If you want accurate prints the X and Y axis has to be able to move squarely to one another. The Z axis has to move perpendicular to the build plate once the X and Y axis are square. If this isn't accurate it will affect your print quality. Once the mechanics are built you will need to tidy up the wiring, check the hot end and build plate heating and make sure the extruder will extrude plastic from the nozzle. Prints can be made directly to the build plate, to a piece of borosilicate glass, mirrored glass or tempered plate glass resting on the heated bed. Once the Z stop is set close so that the Z homes with the nozzle close to the bed plate the you can level up the bed plate with a stainless steel feeler gage and you should be good to go. I would use a .005" feeler gage to start as a comparable piece of paper is .004" thickness. Summary: Pros: 1. Good value for money. 2. Everything bolted up and worked 3. Spare parts were a nice touch and much appreciated. 4. Good selection of software to slice and handle STL files. 5. Fastener quality was good enough to get the job done. Cons: 1. Instructions are abysmal. The illustrations are too small, not well explained and the references are sorely lacking for someone that has no experience with building small CNC type electronics. In short the instructions are just enough to get the job done but the neophyte will struggle. 2. Build photos would be a big help. You can't depend on a bunch of folks on the Internet to cover your failings with YT videos and websites that may be doing it wrong to start with. The factory needs to own it. 3. Use a full size SD card. Micro SD cards are OK for phones and tablets because they get installed and stay installed, they have no business in a 3D printer they are simply too small to use all the time. 4. The 24V wiring coming from the power supply had insulation nicks on both the + and - wires and had to have heat shrink applied to keep them from possibly shorting out. The screws on the terminal block at the bottom of the power supply were just barely tight so check yours. 5. XT 60 connectors are rated for up to 65 amps continuous but they were never designed to be permanent connections. In RC model applications you may fly for 5 to 10 minutes and then the packs are disconnected. Most of the time the connectors aren't even in use. I would prefer to see a metal enclosure with a terminal strip for the power connections. 6. The uprights are cut on a cold saw and this is a common operation for extrusions. The problem is that the resulting surface isn't flat, straight or square. When you bolt the uprights onto the lower frame they aren't square and parallel. You will have to shim them to get them to be square and perpendicular. Note to the factory; you can do better. Suggestions to Creality: Look at the Pro's and Con's, take note of some of the issues and make corrections to the new kits coming out of China. It takes just as long to do something wrong as it does to make it right. Making it right is easier. There should be an adjustable Z stop instead of a fixed one. The homing speed needs to be lowered slightly as the hot end and table hit too hard when homing. I can do this in the Marlin Firmware but the factory just needs to lower the speed slightly. All in all, this is a great way to spend a couple of evenings and the print quality is really good, especially for the money. Despite the issues this is a great printer. Don't let the issues cloud your decision about buying it. All the issues can be resolved by the builder and that's you. This should be a 3.5 star printer but it could be a 5 star printer with just a little work by the factory. Suggestions:
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Reviewed in the United States on June 8, 2018 by Roger T. Moore Roger T. Moore