Carbon Fiber Filament, PRILINE Carbon Fiber ASA 3D Printer Filament 1.75mm, High Strength Carbon Strands Fiber 3D Printing Filament 1kg Spool, Black
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Style: Carbon Fiber ASA
Features
- High Strength Carbon Fiber MaterialPRILINE carbon fiber ASA Filament is high strength chopped carbon fiber infilled asa material, which is a perfect alloy of Carbon Fiber and ASA.
- Engineering Grade Structural Parts Could be Printed with the wonderful high hardness, intensity and good weather resistance, the PRILINE carbon fiber ASA filament works great for engineering grade structural parts which need high stiffness and outdoor using.
- Environmentally Friendly MaterialWhen printing, it doesn't emanate any smells. PRILINE unique carbon fiber material has excellent weather resistance, chemical resistance and environmental protection advantages.
- Dimensional Accuracy & Dry enoughAdvanced control system in production guarantee the filament to be strict tolerances. PRILINE spools undergo thorough drying for enough time before packaging.The filament must be store in sealed storage with desiccants or dry for 4-6 hours at 65 C before printing to maintain optimal performance.
- PRILINE Lifetime GuaranteeWe stand behind the quality and performance of our 3D printer filament. No matter what happens, PRILINE is here to support you for a seamless 3D printing experience.
Brand: PRILINE
Material: Carbon Fiber
Item Weight: 1 Kilograms
Item Diameter: 1.75 Millimeters
Unit Count: 35.27 Ounce
Manufacturer: PRILINE
Brand: PRILINE
Item Weight: 2.2 pounds
Package Dimensions: 8.1 x 8.1 x 3.1 inches
Item model number: PN-CFASA
Material Type: Carbon Fiber
Number of Items: 1
Manufacturer Part Number: PN-CFASA
Date First Available: February 14, 2023
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Similar Products
Top Amazon Reviews
Style: Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate
This filament does take some time to dial in. Be patient. Once you have it dialed in, you'll produce some of the nicest, epic looking, engineering grade parts. After printed and cooled, the parts can be drilled and tapped without any issues with threads warping or pulling out. I am printing on a AnyCubic Kobra Max. I had to modify my printer to print well. But everything I had to do was WELL worth the time and effort. After figuring out my settings in Cura, this filament prints like butter. Thing you need to be successful: - High Temp Nozzle: I tried hardened steel at first and it worked 'ok'. However when I upgraded to a Diamondback nozzle - that was the game changer in quality, reliability and repeatability. - Nozzle Size: Use a larger nozzle size. I started with a 0.6mm nozzle when I started, like the requirements state. If you use anything smaller it will clog. Even the 0.6mm clogged from time to time. I was also still getting inconsistencies with the print using . So I ponied up another $100 and got a 0.8mm nozzle. Prints were MUCH more consistent without losing too much quality. Also it prints faster with a larger nozzle. - Bi-Metal Heat Break: I upgraded my heat break to a hybrid copper-titanium. This helps regulate the temperatures better. Which helps with the next item.... - Bowden Tubes: If you do not have a direct drive extruder, you need to upgrade this. As this filament prints at a higher temp, this tube has a higher heat resistance than the OEM tube. This will prevent melted plastic for clogging the inside of the tube and keep the temperatures down where the bowden tube enters the heat break. I purchased a Capricorn brand bowden tube. Change all the fittings that it comes with as the tube is a slightly different size and these fittings hold onto the tube better. Also make sure to install a lock on them. Either use a zip tie, or what I did was print some locks that can be found on Thingiverse under 'Meister Werks' user name. - Build Plate: Using a PEI build plate works perfect for this material. To prevent warping, use a 5-10mm brim around the circumference of the printing part. You will have to remove and file off the lip around the bottom, but it's fairly easy with a corse file and/or a deburring tool. Settings - Layer thickness depends of the level of detail and size of the print - Small number for small items, larger number for larger items. - Initial Layer: 0.15-0.2mm - Reg Layer: 0.3 Small Prints - 0.4mm Larger Prints - Line Width: 1.2 - w/0.8mm nozzle - Infill Line: 1.2 - w/0.8mm nozzle - Normal Flow: 95-96% - Infill Flow: 91-93% - Print Cooling: *NONE* (Using print cooling will warp your print and will not adhere to the build plate) - Normal Print Speed: 35-40mm/sec - Initial Print Speed: 25-30mm/sec (Play with the speeds. Sometimes you have to slow it down for smaller items. I made 2 profiles for small and large prints) - Print Acceleration: 4000mm/sec *** Any settings I didn't mention, Don' use or just leave off. See photos with settings.
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Reviewed in the United States on April 29, 2024 by Meister Werks Meister Werks
Style: Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate
After some initial frustrations dialing in this filament, I contacted the manufacturer who provided some tips and an MSDS sheet. The manufacturer was really quite responsive and helpful, clearly interested in ensuring that I had a successful experience. I've updated my review with my observations after more experimentation with this filament. Throughout this review I'm going to be comparing this material to PETG, even though it's a PC blend. This is because my primary printing experience has been with PETG, and my goal with this filament was to achieve better precision, better durability, and better temperature resistance than my PETG experiences. Hot end. I'm using a E3D V6 Hot End with Copper Heater Block, Titanium Heat Break, and 0.4mm Nozzle X. The Nozzle X is a hardened nozzle, suitable for printing abrasive filaments. It also has a nonstick coating, and I'm happy to report that this filament easily wipes off the Nozzle X at temperature. Bed surface. I'm using the Prusa PEI sheet, the regular one, not the fancy new powder coated one. My surface prep is exactly the same as I do for my PETG prints, using windex as a release agent. In general this has worked well, though I did tear out a 1mm square chunk of PEI from the sheet by getting impatient and pulling a print off before the sheet fully cooled. Make sure to let your sheet cool before removing the print. Filament diameter. I measured the filament diameter to range from 1.69mm to 1.72mm. This tolerance is fine but make sure to adjust your Slic3r settings accordingly. No Cooling Fan. I'm attaching a picture of a SirLayersalot that I printed at 60% scale with Slic3r's default "Prusament PETG" profile (while this filament is PC, not PETG, I found the settings of this profile to produce cosmetically acceptable prints). This profile included the cooling fan enabled with an auto fan setting of 30-50% and a bridge fan of 50%. Temperature was 240/85 for the first layer and 250/90 for subsequent layers. As you can see in the picture, this yielded a cosmetically nice print. However, and this is the important part, layer adhesion tests using a layer adhesion test model on Thingiverse showed that prints with the cooling fan enabled had compromised layer adhesion. With the fan enabled, I was easily able to break the layer adhesion test by hand. Prints made without a fan yielded a layer adhesion test that I could not break by hand. The manufacturer recommends printing without cooling fan. I second this recommendation -- you've paid for this expensive filament, it's worth taking the time to get a fan-less (or "fan-minimal") profile to ensure the best layer adhesion. Warping. I do not print with an enclosure, and I found warping to be minimal on the size prints that I do. I did have one very wide (from one side of the bed to the other) print pull up on a corner on me, but I've had that same problem with PETG on very wide models. Adding a brim probably would have prevented the issue. Carbon Fibers. After printing with this filament, I usually run a clear cleaning filament through my hot end. Putting that extruded cleaning filament under a microscope, carbon fibers cleaned out of the hot end are clearly visible. They are small hair-like strands. Heat deformation test. I performed a test using this filament together with PETG as a baseline reference, heating a rectangular print up at 5 degree increments, applying some load stress, until I noticed deformation. This filament began to deform at about 100C. The PETG reference began to deform at about 90C. Developing a fan-less profile. I began with the Prusament PETG profile that I used to print the SirLayersalot, and made several changes. First, I increased retraction distance to 2mm, lift-z 1mm, and retraction speed to 50mm/s. The filament does tend to ooze a bit, and the retraction will help prevent ooze artifacts on your prints. Next, I brought the temperature down to 235C. I set the extrusion multiplier to 0.98, to prevent material accumulation on the nozzle. I disabled the "fan always on" setting, and changed the fan speed to vary from 1% to 5%, instead of 30%-50%. These fan speeds I chose not to achieve any cooling, as 5% should be negligible, but rather to enable Slic3r's "slow down if layer print time is below" setting to slow down the print speed for very small layers (more on that in a moment). I set the bridging fan speed to 30%, as I think bridging is one case where some fan is acceptable and useful to achieve decent bridges. You can get the filament to bridge without a fan, but the first layer of bridge will sag a little. It's probably something to evaluate on a print-by-print basis depending on how much bridging you have. I turned on the "detect bridging perimeters" setting. I'm also attaching a picture of a "Prusa Mk3 Nozzle Fan" print that I made with this filament. It took me about a dozen attempts to dial this part in using my fan-less profile described above. The biggest issue was the small mounting tab with the countersunk bolt hole on the top of the print. This tab is a small feature, with small fast layers, and without a fan it is possible to overheat this tab and cause it to sag and deform. The solution, recommended to me on the prusa forum, was to print something else a few inches away on the bed. This technique causes the print head to move away just long enough to keep from overheating and deforming the print. So I printed two of them at a time. After the dozen attempts, I did end up with a nozzle fan good enough to install on my printer. I'm now printing the Mk3S version. The third picture I'm attaching are some large rectangular prints. These are the aforementioned prints that went from one side of the print bed to the other. These are part of a COB LED light bracket that I'm making, where I wanted a bit of additional temperature resistance beyond what I would normally get with PETG. The prints turned out at least as good as my PETG versions, are stiffer, more opaque, more matte, and should have a higher temperature resistance. The final verdict. It took some persistence getting this filament to print well, but I feel the experience was worthwhile. The resulting print is: 1) More rigid than PETG, 2) Has a higher temperature resistance than PETG, and 3) Has a nice matte finish. Plan to invest some time dialing in your settings and try to reduce fan usage to a minimum to achieve the best layer adhesion and part strength. Avoid the fan altogether if you can.
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Reviewed in the United States on April 23, 2019 by S. M. Baker S. M. Baker