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APEC WATER

APEC ROCT-Plus Countertop Reverse Osmosis System, Efficient RO Filter 3:1 Pure to Drain, Instant Hot Water ± 2° for Tea, UV Water Filtration

    • Based on 11,556 reviews
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Style: ROCT-PLUS


Features

  • COUNTERTOP RO SYSTEM: No need for installation or plumbing. Carefully designed to deliver purified water and a visually appealing aesthetic to your home, this system offers unmatched convenience. Simply fill the reservoir, plug it into a nearby outlet, and indulge in refreshing purified water with a simple button press. Whether you're a renter, need an RV water filter, require a solution for a small office, desire a home gym accessory, or seek portability in any scenario, this reverse osmosis system is the perfect fit
  • ADVANCED RO/UV WATER PURIFICATION: Experience exceptional water filtration through cutting-edge 3-in-1 reverse osmosis combined with UV Light technology. The filtration process consists of three stages: 1st Stage, a PP cotton sediment filter efficiently captures large particulates. 2nd Stage employs an RO membrane to effectively eliminate a wide range of impurities, including Chromium, PFAs, fluoride, salt, heavy metals, nitrates, arsenic, chlorine, chloride, and much more. 3rd Stage uses a post-carbon layer to enhance taste and polish. Finally, the water undergoes a rigorous treatment under high-powered ultraviolet light, ensuring nothing remains except refreshing, purified water
  • EFFICIENT 3:1 PURE TO DRAIN: Leveraging innovative water recirculation technology, the ROCT-PLUS achieves an impressive 3:1 pure to drain ratio during the osmosis process - 4 cups of tap water produce 3 cups of purified water and 1 cup of wastewater. The APEC ROCT-PLUS countertop reverse osmosis system stands out for its economic efficiency due to less water wasted
  • Instant Heating Technology: Elevate your tea experience using purified water for an unparalleled taste with precision heating element within 2.Rreach temperatures of up to 203F with ease, you have the flexibility to effortlessly tailor the settings to your desired preference - preparing baby formula, brewing coffee or drinking room temperature water directly. The ROCT-PLUS uses an instant heating technology, avoiding re-boiling and ensuring your every sip is pure and fresh
  • RO SYSTEM DIGITAL DISPLAY: The front-facing digital interface provides a comprehensive overview of key system aspects. It visually indicates the status of the UV light activation, displays the current water temperature, and offers a clear indicator for the RO filter life and water quality. A critical safety feature, the system is also equipped with a CHILD LOCK to ensure protection against potential accidents

Description

The APEC ROCT-PLUS is designed to provide impeccably pure water and aesthetically pleasing design in the home. Dispenses water as hot as 203 degrees or adjusts to your preference with highly accurate precision between ± 2°. Featuring a 3-in-1 reverse osmosis cartridge and high-powered UV light for optimal water purification. 1st STAGE: PP cotton sediment filter for large particulates. 2nd STAGE: RO membrane effectively removes Chromium, PFAs, fluoride, salt, heavy metals, nitrates, arsenic, chlorine, chloride, and other harmful impurities. 3rd STAGE: Post-carbon layer polishes/improves taste. Lastly, water passes through high powered ultra-violet light ensuring nothing remains except purified water. The digital display provides indication of water quality (TDS), filter replacement reminder, whether UV light is on, and child lock option to prevent injury. Experience bottled water quality without the cost and environmental impact, and with all the more convenience of pure refreshing water on-demand within your home.

Material: Polypropylene (PP)


Capacity: 1056 Gallons


Brand: APEC Water Systems


Style: ROCT-PLUS


Installation Type: Countertop


Product Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 7.87 x 15.37 x 15.59 inches; 14 Pounds


Date First Available ‏ : ‎ October 21, 2023


Manufacturer ‏ : ‎ APEC Water Systems


Country of Origin ‏ : ‎ China


Best Sellers Rank: #1,371 in Tools & Home Improvement (See Top 100 in Tools & Home Improvement) #1 in Under-Sink & Countertop Filtration


#1 in Under-Sink & Countertop Filtration:


Customer Reviews: 4.7 4.7 out of 5 stars 11,556 ratings


Frequently asked questions

If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is: Monday, May 27

Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.

To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.

View our full returns policy here.

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Top Amazon Reviews

    • >>> DOES THE JOB
Style: 50 GPD
> I purchased the APEC ROES-50 to replace a similar 25 year-old system, largely because I was due for a completely filter change (including the membrane), and a tank change --- which would have costed as much as a new system. > The APEC ROES-50 system includes everything you need for a complete installation, including adapters, a splitter, and a valve to attach to your cold water line, and an RO (reverse osmosis) faucet. Caveat, I recommend a dual dishwasher/RO air gap, or at least an RO air gap faucet, which are NOT included. > Since my old system was a 1/4" tubing system (like the APEC ROES-50), I used the old 1/4" water supply line (meaning that I did not have to install any adapters, splitters, valves, nor a new line). I could have used my old RO faucet --- but I chose to use the (included) new faucet. EASE OF INSTALLATION > The two hardest parts of a new installation are installing the adapter (if necessary), a spliter, valve, and a new cold water supply line, AND drilling a hole in your countertop for the reverse osmosis faucet. If you install a dual dishwasher/RO air gap, that will require a second hole. Since I did NOT have to do any of that, my installation was very easy. Essentially, all I had to do was install a valve on the new tank (very easy), install the 3 primary filters (very easy), and connect lines to the water supply, to the tank, and to the RO faucet (easy). > Connecting the lines to the water supply, to the incoming water line, water tank, and to the RO faucet was very easy: You pull out plugs from the connectors, insert the new lines (IMPORTANT -- as deep as they will go), and then pull out on the new lines to tighten the connection. Remarkable. Installing the connections on my old system was much more difficult, and almost invariably leaked. The new quick connections were ridiculously easy, and after about 2 months, have not leaked. OTHER OPTIONS > Tempted by a smaller, more compact system? That's fine for a drinking water system, say in an office. But check out the tank capacity. You need a 5 gallon tank (which can actually deliver only 2--3 gallons at-a-time) for a home kitchen system. You may never use more than a gallon at a time, but that first gallon will be delivered quickly -- the second or third gallon will be tad slower. If you want a fourth or fifth gallon, you'll have to wait a half-hour or so. > I considered a ca $30 more expensive 3/8" line system (largely because I suspected that a 3/8" system would be less leak-prone). I'm glad I did not buy it. For one thing, I would have had to install new fittings for the water supply to the RO system. It is claimed that the 3/8" system fills big cooking pots quickly, but frankly, the 1/4" system does as well --- the difference would be measured in seconds. Theoretically, if you had to fill, say, five 2-gallon pots (a hypothetical 10 gallons total) at-a-time, a few more seconds per gallon might matter --- but the actual 5-gallon tank capacity is only 2--3 gallons (depending on your water pressure) at a time, so you can't fill five 2-gallon pots at-a-time anyway. By the way a 2--3 gallon capacity might sound inadequate, but in 25 years, I've never felt the need for greater capacity -- I virtually never used more than a gallon at a time. (As I understand it, it is possible to gang more storage tanks for greater capacity). Perhaps with several tanks ganged together (easily possible), or one or more larger tanks, such a system might be useful in a small commercial kitchen. > You can pay more for a 100 gallon/day rated system, but what's the point of that? You still can get only 2--3 gallons at-a-time (with a single 5-gallon tank). Again, perhaps with several 5 tanks ganged together (easily possible), or one or more larger tanks, such a system might be useful in a small commercial kitchen. Moreover, presumably a 100 gallon/day system probably generates 2x more RO wastewater than a 50 gallon/day system -- and the difference may add up to considerably higher water bills. > It was my impression that the ROES-50 system came with standard fittings, and that I'd have to pay more for a quick-connect system. But my ROES-50 system came with quick-connect fittings. No error by APEC nor Amzn -- the box and instructions were clearly labeled "ROES-50". TIPS > When installing the cold water supply, tank, faucet, and drain lines, it is best NOT to shorten them for a neater installation (as I did for my first RO system). In the future, you may need to change the water tank and the reverse osmosis faucet, and maybe even your main sink faucet. In the past 30 years I've changed my main faucet 3 times, my RO faucet 3 times, my RO tank 3 times, and my RO membrane 4 times, plus changing the other RO filters many times. If you shorten the lines, you might have to disconnect various lines for access, which can be surprisingly confusing, and might be difficult to re-install without leakage. If you leave the lines long, you can probably simply move the RO system aside for access without having to disconnect anything. > To install the cold water supply, tank, and reverse osmosis faucet lines, keep the connection clean until installation (i.e., don't remove the plugs early, and wipe off the ends of the lines with a paper towel (or, better, a clean cloth) just before you insert them into the connectors). Insert the end of the line as deep into the connector as it will go, then pull back hard to set the connection. Leave 3--5" space with your cabinet walls (or door) so that there is no sideways strain on the lines at the connectors. > Use (food grade) silicon grease (NOT included) when installing the three big filter housings. The 3" diameter o-rings in the three big filter housings come greased already with silicon grease (be careful not to contaminate the surfaces of the greased o-rings with dust or grit). When you change the filters in the future, you should clean the o-rings (until no more black carbon comes off on a paper towel), and re-grease them with silicon grease, and wipe off the excess. > The 2 large carbon filters also have rubber disks, which are best lightly greased with silicon grease (wipe off all excess). Don't forget to remove the shrink plastic around the three big filters before installing them (as one reviewer claimed that her plumber had failed to do). > APEC recommends installing the RO drainline into your sink drain pipe as low as practical to avoid the sounds of RO waste water dripping into your sink drain. Instead, I suggest installing the RO drainline below the level that the drain line exits the RO manifold (which depends on where and how you mount the RO manifold), but otherwise as high as possible, to minimize backflow from your sink U trap, which really has disgusting stuff (mats of bacteria) in it. Beware that the water level in your sink waste line can be higher than the top of the sink drainline U-trap if your sink is draining slowly. Be vigilant to maintain your sink waste line clear at all times and that water never backs up. [See "No Air Gap" below for a better idea] > Applying silicon grease to the threads of the big filter housings makes them easier to tighten tight enough to prevent leakage, and to later loosen to change the filters. (Read some of the negative reviews which complain that it is impossible to tighten the housings tight enough to stop leaks, or that it is impossible to remove the housings to replace filters. Trust me --- use silicon grease on the housing threads. Screw the filter housings on and off several times to be sure that the silicon grease is well spread). CAUTION -- Some day, your system or your sink will leak. So, I very strongly suggest that you invest in a leak detection alarm. You don't need to get fancy. You don't need WiFi and other silly features. I bought a package of 2 alarms for $8 twenty years ago, and they have saved my hotwater heater cabinet from being destroyed, and my sink cabinet from being destroyed a half-dozen times. These days $10 (each) alarms are good enough for this purpose. Weathertek (and probably some other manufacturers) also makes a sink cabinet mat which I highly recommend. The mat catches leaks before they puddle up enough to trigger your leak alarm. Slow leaks can damage press-board cabinets without setting off a leak alarm. NO AIR GAP > RO systems require a wastewater drain line --- almost always draining into your sink drain pipe. That's because additional water is used to flush the reverse osmosis filter --- you've got to get rid of those sodium ions, calcium ions , chloride ions, etc. trapped by the osmosis filter, or the filter would be quickly hopelessly clogged up. That RO wastewater has to drain somewhere. > I was surprised by the lack of an airgap in the wastewater line in the APEC ROES-50 system (which is usually built into included RO faucets). The cheapest option is to connect your RO wastewater line to your dishwasher air gap (if your dishwasher is adjacent to your RO system, and has an airgap). > The best option is to use a "dual inlet air gap" specifically designed for a dishwasher and an RO system --about $40 from Amzn. There is even a model with a 1/4" push-in fitting on the RO side (the same type fitting as this APEC ROES-50 system for all the other connections). The only downside to a dishwasher/RO airgap is that you need another ~1" diameter hole in your countertop. Also, the APEC ROES-50 wasteline is 3/8", so you'll need a 3/8" to 1/4" tubing adapter -- but that's cheap and easy. > If your dishwasher is NOT adjacent to your RO system, you can replace the included RO faucet with an airgap RO faucet. Easy-pesy, but an extra expense, and not as good a solution as a dishwasher/RO airgap. > If your RO system drains into the highest sink in your house or building, which is also and the highest sink in your neighborhood, you do NOT live in a flood zone, and your water pressure is stable (even after severe storms, etc.) -- then you are probably okay without an airgap, albeit I'd still recommend a combined dishwasher/RO air gap. > If you are at a comparatively low elevation of a municipal sewage system (i.e., if sewage may flow into your home during a flood, etc.), then an air gap RO system is recommended (and probably mandated by law if you are connected to a municipal water system). You MAY be able to recover from a potential contamination event by replacing ALL of the filters in the system (at about the cost of an entirely new system, which would be a better idea), but the true danger is in not knowing that your system has been contaminated. > Without an air gap, your system can become contaminated simply from the sewage-like gunk in your sink drain line if your RO system ever looses water pressure (say during a widespread power outage that shuts down the municipal water pumps, or even during maintenance of the municipal water lines). If your system is for vacation home etc., where you may turn off the water for long periods (or otherwise your water pressure is not continuous), then an airgap is probably essential. WHY IS A DISHWASHER AIR GAP BETTER THAN AN AIR GAP RO FAUCET? > That sewage like bacteria in your sink U-trap can grow up into your RO drain line and clog it, causing your air gap faucet to leak onto your counter (it is designed to do this). Your air gap RO faucet wastewater drainline needs to be cleaned every 4-6 months. Read the reviews -- several reviewers claim that they replace their entire RO systems every 2 years or so because of the leakage from the RO airgap faucet (even though, obviously, it would be much more practical to simply clean the RO wastewater line). > Cleaning the wastewater line of an RO airgap faucet usually means disconnecting the RO drainline at the U-bend and running a special brush up the drain line to the RO air gap faucet. Alternatively, RO air gap faucets usually have a ~1/8" diameter drain hole on the side, and it is possible to force a blast of air, or to inject an ounce or so of Clorox through the drain hole (and down the RO waste-water line) with a large syringe. The problem is that it is easy to forget to clean the line on schedule, and wake up to a flood on your countertop some morning. It's happened to me MANY times. > WHY WON'T AN RO WASTE WATER LINE ALSO CLOG IF IT IS ROUTED THROUGH A DISHWASHER AIR GAP? A bacterial mat won't grow up your dishwasher wasteline because the drain line is much larger, much longer, and is vigorously flushed every time you run your dishwasher -- and even if the bacterial mat got to the dishwasher air gap, the airgap would stop it from getting any farther. > Why does the APEC ROES-50 have a 3/8" wastewater line even though my old RO system had a 1/4" RO waste water line? This is apparently APECs attempt to reduce the probability of clogging of the RO wasteline with a sewage-like bacterial mat growing from the U-trap of your sink drain pipe. But, in my opinion the larger wastewater line only slows down the wastewater flow velocity, making it easier for the bacterial mat to grow up the line and into your RO system (since there is no air gap to stop it). ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on July 23, 2023 by Stoney
    • Easy to install and great water taste
Style: PH75
Up until the pandemic, we had been using a large volume of bottled water every week. Since it has become risky to return to the store every time we are out of water, it seemed logical that a reverse osmosis system would mitigate that risk. Installation of the APEC system was not difficult, and I spread the work out over two afternoons. The first afternoon was spent boring a hole in our granite countertop. I used a Milwaukee 1" diamond hole saw purchased at our local home improvement store. I followed the recommendations found on YouTube for boring granite. I made a circular well around the drill site with plumbers putty to hold cooling water for the hole saw. This worked out well in terms of eliminating all of the granite dust and in keeping the hole saw cool. In keeping with the hole saw directions, the hole was started by boring at a 45 degree angle until the hole saw caught the granite. Then, the hole saw was carefully raised to vertical to complete the boring operation. The 1" hole was barely large enough to accommodate the air gap faucet that I purchased to replace the faucet that was supplied with the APEC RO unit. I would recommend boring a 1 1/4" hole. The faucet that I used was a Kingston Brass Concord Collection KSAG8198DL Reverse Osmosis System Filtration Water Air Gap Faucet. It has a long lasting Ceramic Disk Cartridge. I selected an air gap faucet to protect the APEC RO membrane from a drain backup. This is the same protection provided for dishwashers. Because the RO discharge water has to pass through the faucet air gap, the air gap inlet uses the supplied 1/4" tubing, but the air gap outlet uses 3/8" tubing. I ordered some John Guest 3/8" Food Grade Polyethylene Tubing from APEC. The discharge quick connect drain saddle supplied with the unit is 1/4" and that had to be replaced with a 3/8" drain saddle, also available from APEC. That requires that a 3/8" hole be drilled in the sink drain line. The drain tubing should be cut as short as possible while still providing serviceability. If the drain tubing forms a large loop below the level of the drain saddle, the air gap will not drain properly, and discharge water will leak from the air gap onto the countertop. Please note that this drain line requirement is only true when an air gap faucet is used. If the APEC supplied faucet is used, there will be no air gap and no air gap leak problem will occur. When connecting to the supply needle valve, it is important to remember to slide the compression nut over the supply tubing first, then the sleeve and tubing insert. Don't over-tighten the compression nut on the supply needle valve. All of the items described above can be ordered from Amazon. Installation went smoothly by following the detailed instructions found in the installation manual. After installation and system flush I measured dissolved solids of 19 ppm. I am told that anything under 100 ppm is excellent. With a new the calcium carbonate pH+ filter the water pH measured 9.3 which is alkaline. That's exactly what we were looking for. That pH is the same as is found in premium bottled waters. You would have to pay around $16.00 a gallon for those. The maintenance schedule is clearly defined in the installation manual, and the replacement intervals will depend upon the raw water quality. Whenever installing or replacing the filter elements, disposable gloves should be used in order to prevent the introduction of bacteria into the system. One thing that I did not find in the installation manual was an end-to-end sanitization procedure to be performed when it is time to replace all of the filters at roughly a 1 year interval. For that you will have to look for guidance elsewhere. Bacteria has a tendency to grow on charcoal media and that may be why APEC offers a UV lamp solution on some of their systems. APEC cautions not to inject chlorine into the system to clean it. That will destroy the RO membrane. However, whenever the filters are replaced, the housings should be thoroughly cleaned with soap and water. A few words about water pressure after reinstalling the system at our new home that is on a private well. There are times when the water pressure drops below 40 PSI and the RO system will run continuously for hours at a time. In order to mitigate this problem and to conserve water, we ordered a water driven permeate pump from APEC. APEC maintains that it will work to pressures as low as 30 PSI, and I will revise this review as soon as I have had an opportunity test it. The downside of any RO system is that is discharges more waste water than the amount of pure water it produces. That can increase the amount of water being drained into a septic system if there is one in use. If a water softener precedes the RO system, the salt that the RO system removes will be discharged into the sink drain. That will discharge some amount of salt into the septic tank. In such cases it may be better to discharge the RO system drain line outdoors and into a dry well along with effluent from the water softener. Draining brine into a septic system is never a good idea, and in many locales it is prohibited. One other problem that we experienced during reinstallation was that the needle valve on the water supply inlet side would not shut off. It appeared as though the needle valve had become pitted or corroded during its brief 4 months of use in Florida. It became necessary to replace the needle valve that is only available by buying a complete standard feed adapter. Next time it happens, I will buy a different style of adapter that incorporates a different type of valve such as a ball valve. These are available from other RO system suppliers on Amazon. A few words about radon. Since writing the original review, we have moved to a house that is on a private well. We moved the RO system with us. The water softener that is ahead of the RO system introduces sodium that is very easily removed by the RO system. Our well water also contains dissolved radon gas. The small charcoal filters that form a part of the RO system are not effective for removing radon gas from well water. If there is radon in the water, it should be removed before the the water enters the RO system. Then, the radon will be concentrated in a larger activated charcoal filter at a location far from the kitchen where the RO system is usually installed. Large activated charcoal tanks are available that will provide radon mitigation for the whole house provided that the dissolved radon concentration is less than 5,000 pCi/l - in our case 3,760 pCi/l. For dissolved radon levels greater than 5,000 pCi/l water aeration and outdoor venting is recommended, although these systems can also promote bacterial growth. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on May 10, 2020 by Rob

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