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ELEGOO

ELEGOO Mars 2 Mono MSLA 3D Printer UV Photocuring LCD Resin 3D Printer with 6.08 inch 2K Monochrome LCD, Printing Size 129x80x150mm/5.1x3.1x5.9inch, Green Cover

    • Based on 2,659 reviews
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Style: Mars 2


Features

  • Fast Printing and less maintenanceMars 2 comes with a 6.08 inch monochrome LCD of 2K HD resolution and only takes 2 seconds per layer exposure to cure resin, which could significantly enhance your printing efficiency. Mono LCD has a much longer lifespan and stable performance during long term printing, thus saves your cost.
  • Outstanding prints and ultra accuracyBrand new light source structure provides more even UV light emission and working together with 2K mono LCD, the printing details and precision are greatly improved and the 3D printed models are fascinating.
  • Sturdy build qualityCNC machined aluminum body makes Mars 2 a very formidable machine. Newly-designed build plate has a much stronger adherence during printing and enables consistent printing success.
  • Multi language interfaceMars 2 now supports 12 kinds of languages so customers across the world could operate the 3D printer more conveniently without barriers. The newly added 10 languages are Japanese, Dutch, Korean, French, German, Russian, Italian, Spanish, Turkish and Portuguese.
  • Warranty and ServiceWe provide a 1-year warranty on the whole printer and 6-month warranty for the 2K LCD (FEP film is excluded). And we provide 24 hours customer service.

Product Dimensions: 150 x 129 x 80 inches


Item Weight: 16.46 pounds


Is Discontinued By Manufacturer: No


Date First Available: November 1, 2018


Manufacturer: ELEGOO


Country of Origin: China


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Top Amazon Reviews

    • Surprisingly Usable
Review Image by Samuel Koepnick
Review Image by Samuel Koepnick
I've been wanting to get into this for awhile. The theory behind it is simple. Build plate moves upward while the LCD display at the bottom shines ultraviolet light (405nm) which polymerizes the bottom layer of resin in the reservoir. Wait 6 or so seconds, raise by 0.5mm and repeat. It seemed so simple that I went back and forth between simply building my own out of cell phone remnants and an Arduino. In the end I opted to buy this, telling myself that the worst case scenario was that I'd salvage it for parts that I'd need anyway for rolling my own. I'm honestly not sure what I was expecting. Possibly a simple aluminum shell with off-the-shelf components and a USB port. Let's be honest here, if you're looking at this you're probably a maker and are likely way more interested in the output than the aesthetics of the machine itself. But the thing is very professional looking. If you saw it in a university lab or a prototyping facility I doubt you'd bat an eye. First thing. The package arrived on time and in immaculate condition. I have no idea who actually is responsible for packing those things, but the styrofoam was so tight around the components that I had to use a tiny punch to break the vacuum that had formed. So, good job. The lone exception was a little plastic beaker that broke after it fell a few feet in a cat-related mishap. It was going to be recycled anyway so I really didn't care. If you're into miniature style games, this is something that you could use to hit the ground running. There's a ton of models on Thingiverse that should print just fine. They even pre-load a number on the USB drive that they ship. Since this is my first foray into this kind of printing, I wanted to write down a few notes. If you're a newcomer to this you may find them useful too. 1) The slicing software (takes your 3D model and outputs it in a way that the printer can interpret) is free, but not open source. I usually try to stick with FOSS, but Chitubox runs flawlessly on Linux (Wayland even!) which is really enough to make me happy at this point. If the authors decide to start charging, I have zero doubt that the open source community will fill the void. 2) The printing process is slower than that of a traditional FDM (Prusa-type) 3D printer. The 50mm tall "hello, world" rook model took about 4 hours to print at a layer height of 0.05mm. Lowering that to a coarser 0.075mm brings that down to about 2 hours. The printer, in theory, can go as fine as 0.01mm, but I haven't gone that far, yet. 3) The resin is nasty stuff. The actual Elegoo branded resin seems to be quite a bit less noxious than the other stuff that I've picked up. But no matter what, you don't want to get any of it on you. I had considered a bigger model but in hindsight am glad I went with this one. A bigger reservoir means dealing with larger volumes of this stuff. 4) The build plate and the reservoir are good and solid. You can feel the heft. Getting Started What's in the box isn't enough to get you started. You'll also need to pick up a bottle of resin. In theory that's that you need...But responsible making generally entails keeping all of your eyes, fingers, and skin intact at the end of the day. Here's my list of the most important safety equipment to have with this. Gloves - They send a few with the device. They're quite small. Even if you have hands tiny enough to fit into them, you'll still want a bix box. Seriously. Don't try and save on gloves. The resin is as bad as honey when it comes to sticking to any surface. Goggles - They do something! Dust mask - They send a few N95 masks. Sadly, at the time of writing, masks are being hoarded by panic-stricken people who believe that a dust mask will keep a virus out of their systems. Perishables: Resin - Obviously FEP film - This forms the bottom of the reservoir and is solidly clamped in place. It needs to be as clear as possible in order for the shapes to be nice and crisp. It feels like the one that comes with the printer will last for awhile, but had I known that I may need these in the future, I probably would have picked some up with the initial order. Solvent - Used to wash non-polymerized resin from a model after the printing is complete. Also used as a general cleaner for the build plate and reservoir. Isopropyl alcohol is what's recommended. But since that's being hoarded by the same folks hoarding dust masks you may need to find alternatives. High proof Everclear, Xylene and mineral spirits come to mind. I've found that using a ultrasonic jewelry cleaner with distilled water works really well. But I've only tried it a few times. Your results may vary. I'd also recommend buying a box or two of eyeglass/lens cleaners. Good for a very soft, streakless spot clean. Funnels - Useful for reclaiming unused resin from the reservoir. The conical filters that they send DO NOT fit properly into the resin bottles. Don't try to wing it. Learn from my mistakes. An oil funnel with a cotton ball stuffed in as a filter seems to work fine. Ultraviolet light bulb - Good for curing in a hurry. In a pinch, the sun will also work. Shop towels - Sopping up resin Extra Credit Crap that I already had lying around that turned out to be really useful. * A garage * Small fume hood * Multiple borosilicate/Pyrex casserole dishes for multi-stage washing * Mason jars for reclaiming solvent * Magnetic stir plate * Aforementioned ultrasonic jewelry cleaner * Stainless steel mesh for straining * Flush clippers for snipping model supports That's it for now. I'll try and update as I try more prints and discover more things that I wish I had known. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on March 7, 2020 by Samuel Koepnick
    • Impressive entry-level resin printer for the price!
Review Image by Scott Presbrey
Review Image by Scott Presbrey
Review Image by Scott Presbrey
Review Image by Scott Presbrey
Review Image by Scott Presbrey
Review Image by Scott Presbrey
Review Image by Scott Presbrey
Review Image by Scott Presbrey
Review Image by Scott Presbrey
Review Image by Scott Presbrey
I ordered the Elegoo Mars around the first of the year. My experience has been positive overall. The support is very good, and I found that using the facebook Elegoo Mars group is very helpful as well. Some pros and cons: Pros: -Very easy to set-up and use (software is relatively simple to use). Far fewer settings to adjust vs FDM printers (only 5 or 6 settings really make a difference in the end product) -Less finicky than FDM printers (not as susceptible to print fails from factors like first layer adhesion/settings). It's very forgiving. -Incredible detail and resolution -Good support -Resin is ideal for painting -Relatively low maintenance Cons: -A bit messy -A bit smelly (not as bad as people mention IMO). -A bit slow. Not a true con, because DLP laser resin printers are expensive, commercial grade printers for higher volume application. -Elegoo resin sticks to everything and transfers easily. 99% isopropyl/ethyl are the only readily available solvents to remove resin from surfaces. (Tip: after printing, rinse with 99% isopropyl or ethyl alcohol, then water, then alcohol and water again.) -Quality control: I had to return first 2 units. First one had an issue where the rising and lowering metal plate would not detach from FEP during first several layers. SOLUTION: add a piece of painters tape to corner of LCD screen, under FEP film, but do not cover active pixel area! (Issue is a vacuum is created that cannot detach).....Second printer had to be returned because units are susceptible to a part knocking loose during shipment, which will cause the UV lamp to turn off randomly. I found tapping the side of the unit helps temporarily, but it is shorting out. Support has a solution to fix it yourself. Just wrap it in an insulator that doesn't conduct electricity (I deferred to the amazon exchange process). Some tips: The printer has a relatively easy learning curve. Default settings in Chitubox 1.3 are ok, but not ideal. For Elegoo transparent resin, I use a minimum of 8 seconds per layer at 0.05mm height. For opaque resins, I use 11-12 seconds per layer at 0.05mm. As a default, I use 8 bottom layers at 30 seconds each. I don't change settings for different layer heights. For most models, especially ones with large internal volume, be sure to add a drain hole in the software or manually with a drill bit after printing. If you drill too small a hole, another hole to let air may be necessary. -Always check the resin reservoir after printing and especially after fails for resin that is stuck to the TPE film and loose in the leftover resin. They include filters for this. -When picking models and preparing a print, you should use any empty area of the print bed for additional models. The only thing affecting print speed is the height of your models. You can print as many models simultaneously as you can fit on the bed without affecting print speed as long as you don't add a taller model. (This is not the case with FDM printers). -Get a nail curing lamp or put your models in the sun to cure for 30 min-1 hour for increased strength. Too long will change the color of some resins (like elegoo transparent). -Try the transparent resin at least once. Transparent resin prints the fastest and you can also calibrate and level your bed without having to empty the resin and clean it (you can see through to the LCD screen to align the ballast without removing the resin). --Another reason, is that transparent resin allows you to see the internal structure of your model. You can see the infill grid and see if any resin is trapped. I didn't understand the importance of a drain hole in some models until I used transparent resin and saw liquid resin moving freely in a finished model. Despite needing to make an exchange, my overall experience has been very positive. For $500, I think it is a great deal relative to other resin printers with similar abilities and performance. I would definitely make the purchase again. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on February 19, 2019 by Scott Presbrey

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