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Availability:
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Arrives
Monday, Aug 31
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Set name: Ender 3 V3 SE
Features
- FASTER AND LIVELY PRINTING EXPERIENCE: Ender 3 V3 SE 3d printer can print at up to speed 250 millimeter per second with acceleration 2500 millimeters per square second, faster than most of printers on the market. You can complete models efficiently, saving time to wait for print jobs. Moreover, it can keep good printing quality at the same time. The optimized UI uses motion graphics to display the leveling process and other parameters, so you will know how the printer is doing at a glance, providing you a perfect printing experience
- EASILY START TO PRINT: Creality Ender 3 V3 SE 3D printer is easy to put together in 3 steps within about 20 minutes only. It equips CR Touch for auto leveling and strain sensor for auto Z offset. It is easy to get a perfect first layer. Leveling is the important process before printing, it usually make customers in trouble. This printer can save your time in leveling, and easily start to print. Which is friendly to all of customers including the beginners
- CAPABLE "SPRITE" DIRECT EXTRUDER: The "Sprite" Direct Extruder of Ender 3 V3 SE enables smooth feeding of various filaments, including PLA, PETG, and TPU. And the extruder is market-proven for its reliability, as over 500,000 units have been shipped worldwide
- DUAL STABLE STRUCTURE: Creality Ender 3 V3 SE, Dual Z-axis synced by a quality timing belt, ensuring high print quality. The rigid dual Z-axis lead screws reduce Z wobbling effectively. The Y-axis features two 8 millimeter linear shafts made of strong and wear-proof steel, which underpins a steady and accurate motion of the build platform for a lasting time
- 32-BIT SILENT MAINBOARD AND MORE: This printer equips a 32-bit silent mainboard with an advanced stepper motor drive to control all axes more precisely for less operation noise. The PC spring steel build plate is sticky and flexible, making it easy to remove the printed models by bending it slightly. Moreover, Ender 3 V3 SE equips the auto filament loading and uploading, one tap to load the filament, and one tap to unload it
Description
Comgrow is the first seller of Creality 3D on Amazon. We own 20+ technical staff to provide professional support to all customers. Comgrow is devoted to provide high quality and economical 3d printers, 3d printer accessories, 3d printer filament and excellent after-sales service to all customers.
Brand: Comgrow
Material: Aluminum
Color: Ender 3 V3 SE
Product Dimensions: 17.32"D x 17.32"W x 18.31"H
Item Weight: 15.4 pounds
Product Dimensions: 17.8 x 16.93 x 20.47 inches
Item Weight: 15.43 pounds
Item model number: Ender 3 V3 SE
Date First Available: December 29, 2018
Manufacturer: Creality 3D
Frequently asked questions
If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is:
Monday, Aug 31
Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
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Top Amazon Reviews
The Ender 3 marked my entry into the 3D-printing world, and I love it! The 3D printer has been a godsend! If you're also newbie and searching for advice, here's my brief take on the Ender 3. It's awesome! The Ender 3 arrives in pieces that you must assemble. Since it is essentially a robot, assembly can seem overwhelming at first, but if you take it one step at a time, you'll be printing in no time. I found the printed instructions accompanying the unit to be more sizzle than steak, but, fortunately there are several videos on YouTube that make assembly a breeze. Believe it or not, assembling the unit yourself is beneficial because it familiarizes you with the device. It will allow you to easily make the minor adjustments that 3D printers often require. My wife and I have found that 3D printing comes with somewhat of a steep learning curve, but it's fun. YouTube and websites such as "all3DP dot com" have proven themselves to be life savers. The most common adjustments you'll make while 3D printing is "bed leveling." In truth, though, you're not actually "leveling" the print bed, but rather you're ensuring that the print nozzle is uniformly distanced from the bed (the print surface) on all its 4 corners. The nozzle needs to be super close, too. ...not about an inch or two away from the print bed, but rather it needs to be no further than the thickness of a piece of paper. Crazy, huh? When my wife and I printed a test file provided by Creality (the manufacturer), we frankly sat mesmerized at the unit's precision. It was like staring into a campfire and getting lost in the flames. The nozzle just zipped back and forth across the print bed leaving tiny bits of corn-based "plastic" one layer at a time, and eventually (over time) created a cat/dog thingy. In search of more things to print, we settled on two websites with tons of 3D-printable files that are very often free to download. The websites are "thingiverse dot com" and "cults3d dot com". The latter site takes longer to load, but seems to have more options. Creality has one too, but I haven't really checked it out yet. It's important to note that the files you download from such websites are *.stl files, whereas the Ender 3 needs *.gcode files. To make the file conversion, we downloaded a piece of software called Cura. It appears to be the best (free) software on the market for "slicing" 3D files into *.gcode files. That too has a steep learning curve, complete with complicated settings. But fortunately there are lots of tutorials online along with settings you can copy from experts. I mostly rely on "all3DP dot com" for that. After a while, we decided to invent our own designs and then print them into existence. In my opinion, the cat's meow -- the best and easiest 3D design application -- is Fusion360. It has a limited free version for students and schools, but otherwise it's quite pricey. My wife then found free, open-sourced design software called FreeCAD. We love it, and haven't turned back since. The filament we prefer is PLA. In our experience, PLA produces little to no fumes and it's guilt-free because it's corn-based and biodegradable. It should be noted, though, that not all PLA is created equally. This is primarily because (according to what I've read) pigments affect the PLA in different ways. So, when I order PLA from Amazon, I always look for the PLA with the most and highest reviews. Then, I refer upon their temperature recommendations. Overall, we absolutely love the Ender 3. At under $200, it's extremely affordable, and the process of printing things into existence can be (in my experience) somehow transformative. And if you find yourself confused about something, take my advice by not wasting time by trying to figure it out for yourself. Just refer to the experts on any of the websites I mentioned so, later on, you can focus on things that really matter...like design. Note: the bearing on a little fan went out. So, I reached out to Comgrow, they got back to me immediately, and now a new fan is on the way. No fuss no muss. Finally, at the risk of getting to personal, I'm a disabled veteran who benefits from focusing on tangible things. The process of 3D printing has proven itself to be such a godsend in that regard, that I think the VA should seriously explore ways of getting more vets 3D printing. I hope this helped newbies like me. Happy printing!
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Reviewed in the United States on December 11, 2022 by Louie Cruz
I have been thinking about buying a 3d printer for a little over a year. They have been pricy so I've not stepped into this arena, especially with so much information to wade through. So I bought this printer on a whim with a "lighting deal." First, I read other reviews and found YouTube for assembling the printer. The instructions help a little with the videos, but this is really the only negative. It's well made and simple to assemble so it made for a fun afternoon. Next thing to know is that I didn't know nearly enough. Once it's assembled, you have to level it. Luckily there's a ton of videos on this, and the assembly videos will go through that as well. It's not hard, but something I never thought of. I also got the auto leveler and installed it a few days later. That's a whole different thing that is amazing once you figure it out. Another thing i didn't realize is the print bed. This printer comes with one, obviously, and it does a good job. Keeping the bed level is hugely important for your prints. Also keeping it clean. It's never really clean though. I watched a ton of videos about using alcohol to clean it but that can actually be too harsh. Soap and water seems to be the go to across forums. Using some other adhesive is fair game as well. I didn't realize how much damage I did and bought a glass bed for my prints. Glass was amazing! It actually struggled to get prints to release. But the alcohol was too much and had already started to ruin my new bed. So, just soap and water should get you through most issues (and don't be afraid of the glass bed, it is pretty nice) Now, your filament absorbs water. I also didn't realize this and thought the various filament storage and dryer were just frivolous. They are, and they aren't. I have silica beads, and a vacuum sealer, so I don't strictly speaking need one of those. Also, my oven has a dehydration setting. However, it's nice to just have one on hand and not take up the kitchen or extra electricity from having the oven on. So, need one, no, but I'm not mad that my bundle came with one. Most of the rest of your questions can be Googled. But also, read forums, not just the popular videos and articles (it's how I've ruined two print bed). Everyone loves discussing the slicer (print configuration software basically) settings ands getting the most out of each print. I'm personally looking forward to learning to build my own designs, but don't feel like you have to. My kids love me printing endless frogs and cats for them to display and show off. My nephew likes the toys I've managed so far. Above I've mentioned things I've learned and wish I knew more about ahead of time. However I haven't really talked about the printer itself. It's been great. There's no real instructions because each print is a little different. You need to experiment to see what works best with everything. That may not be for everyone. But you can create surprisingly large prints with great detail with this printer. It's been smooth! It's worth noting that 3d printers can be loud, but it's not very. If say it's more quiet then most dot matrix printers. I can sit by it printing and work on other projects, or leave the room and I can't really hear it. So if you're wanting to break into this as a hobby, this is an excellent printer to start with. It's a little older so there's tons of help out there for it and it's been reliable. Replacement parts are not expensive, nor are upgrades. TLDR: This is a good printer and I'm happy with my purchase.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 18, 2023 by Drew
Looked at several printers and decided this was the best bang for buck printer, here in mid 2019. Also popular and a large support community. The assembly was moderate. An internet videos is a MUST as no one could easily assemble or understand the brief picture instruction sheet it comes with. Took me two hours to do things meticulously. Leveling the bed was not so bad. Took me a lot of fine tuning but I wanted it perfect for that first print. Leveling is also a task that is best done after watching several youtube videos. Seriously, no matter how smart you think you are, there is no replacement for real life people who have done this stuff and learned some lessons. First print was underway. I was confused for about 10 minutes the head/nozzle was down on the build mat doing all its motions and the filament was going in but I was not seeing anything being built. Strangely nothing was coming out. In hind site, I think maybe it was putting down a very thin base to build on. So thin it was hard to see. Because eventually it got into the actual feet of the dog and you could see it come together. Its amazing how that nozzle of goop can make such a fine print. Truly amazing. The two bad things: The First bad thing was, the demo dog you print, as a test, would have taken about 2 and a half hours, But they are not even nice enough to give you enough filament to complete it. It printed up to the dogs neck and then ran out. This was disappointing, but I would get over it. The second bad thing and the reason I took a star off was this. When the print was "done". (with no head) I decided to pull it and get ti ready for the next day when I would have more filament. The dog was stuck to the mat like Iron. People on the internet say "oh just give it a little twist, or a hard pull", or "get a putty knife" or some crap like that. Some even say put it in the freezer and the temp diff will just pop it loose. Let me tell you, I tried it ALL. I was even beating the object against the leg of my coffee table like a hammer, and it would not let go of the build mat. It could not have been more attached to that build plate if I had super glued the thing down. The ONLY thing that finally worked was to get a heat gun and seriously heat the mat up, almost to the point where I was melting the printed object, then after some force, it peeled off. IF it had printed it to completion, and I wanted to keep it, I would have had a crazy skirt of plastic around the bottom to trim off. I love the printer, it does some amazing work, but I need to find a way to get my finished projects off the mat without damaging them.
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Reviewed in the United States on June 4, 2019 by Kelli L. Springer
Set name: Ender 3 V2
For being a novice 3D printer person, this device can do a lot of things. A friend of mine has this same printer and with his help and previous knowledge from using the same printer, I have really learned a lot and his expertise has helped me with a lot of questions that I would have had to ask others about. I ordered this 3D printer on 28 Jan 2021 and it was delivered on 04 Feb 2021. Creality really does a great job packing all of the parts and pieces. It took a little bit of setting up, but watching several YouTube videoes on how to unbox and setup this printer really was a big help. The most critical thing with this printer, is making sure that the bed is level. If your bed is not level, then the filament will not stick to the surface of the bed. It will take 30-45 minutes to level your bed. There are several videos on YouTube on "How to level your Ender 3 v2 printer". Also, depending on what type of filament you are going to use, you need to know what is the best nozzle temperature to set. I found that the GEEETECH, MILKA and HATCHBOX PLA filaments are the best, but that is my own opinion. I found that 185 Celsius for the nozzle temp and the bed temp of 50 degree Celsius was the best settings. But, most manufacturers will have printed on the side of the spool what temps to use and also when you use the "slicer program" for the things you want to print it will already be programmed into the "gcode". But, still set the temps to 185C and 50C for the PLA filaments and see how that works. I also ordered the "Ender 3 Springs, Creality Upgraded 4PCS Hot Bed Die Springs with 4PCS Aluminium Hand Twist Leveling Nut for Ender 3/3 Pro/3 V2, Ender 5/5 Pro/5 Plus, CR-10, CR10S/10S Pro, CR 20 3D Printer" kit. This replaces the springs that come with the Ender 3 printer and is a more sturdier spring (hot die spring) instead of the less sturdier spring that comes standard on this printer. It will keep your bed level after several prints. Also, make sure that you check the belts for the X and Y axis after several prints. All you have to do is to tighten the knobs just a fraction of a turn, but make sure not to overtighten. My friend printed me some additions, which we found on "Thingiverse.com", to add onto my printer which really helps, one is a pulley wheel that attaches to the side of the printer to help streamline the filament from the spooler to the extrueder so that it doesn't crimp when printing. Also, I have printed several items that I downloaded from THINGIVERSE.COM and all of them turned out great. I found out from my friend that using blue painters tape and the Elmer's Purple glue stick really helps the different filaments to stick to the surface. Put the blue painters tape down and then level your bed and once leveled, then use the purple glue stick on the painters tape and smooth with your finger. I also downloaded the slicer software "CURA" (the "slicer software") to create the "gcode" that this 3D printer uses to print your items that you download from "THINGIVERSE.com". There is a "slicer" program that comes with the printer on the SD Card and it looks just like "CURA" but Creality just added a few other things to make it look a little different. Either "slicer program" will work. I have also purchased about $200 worth of PLA (harder) and PETG (softer) filaments. Should not be running out of that anytime soon. Overall, Creality does make a great printer and so far, I have not had any issues to be really concerned about. Overall, I give this printer a 5 out of 5 stars. Just do your research on what you and your friends are likely to use. I am very pleased and recommend this printer to everyone. Those people that are giving this device bad reviews are ones that have no idea on what they are doing and have not done the reasearch in order to make this thing enjoyable. You just can not setup this printer and expect it to automatically print. There is some work involved and once you do the research and learn from those that have gone thru these situations, i guarantee that this device will be the next fun thing that you will ever own and have fun using day-in and day-out. I am glad i had the expertise from my friend or I might be giving some critical reviews also. Do your homework. I think this is the future toy that everyone will have in their household. Happy 3D printing! 19 April 2021 I have had this printer for almost 3 months now, and i can say that I have had no really big problems with this 3D printer from Ender. Yes, there is a few twikking that needs to be done from time-to-time, but if you have the patience, this thing can really be fun for you and the family. Once again, the biggest thing is getting the bed level but usually you don't have to worry with that until after 8-10 prints. Again, i use the Blue Painter's tape for the filament to adhere to and i also used the Purple Glue Sticker. For smaller and more detailed prints, using these 2 things can make for removing your print a little difficult. I use a little rubbing alcohol and it will come loose. For finer prints where things are more detailed, you might also want to slow the speed of the print from 100% to about 50-70%. I have printed some pedals or flowers for the hummingbird feeder that i made and the print speed needed to be adjusted and really did a fine job. Using the faster speed (100%), the detailed flowers were messed up. I would still recommend this to everyone. I enjoy my Ender 3D printer everytime i print something. Good luck.
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Reviewed in the United States on February 25, 2021 by Chewy
so I bought this printer almost a year ago and I didn't even use it that much, I dont know exactly how many things I printed but definitely not even more than 20 this thing has less than 100 hours of printing and the amount of issues ive had is just stupid. I remember I printed less than 5 things and I had come across my first issue.. my prints kept coming off the print bed, it took me a bit but I realized I could just put some glue on it (like school glue sticks) and they would turn out fine (although I did have to clean the bed after every print) then I found this really awesome dragon, so obviously I printed it... well tried to print it. first time I tried to print it the nozzle clogged and I was kind of annoyed because it was like a 2 day print and it had printed for about 15 hours before failing and wasted a good chunk of filament, but I thought it was just you know a little mishap I mean not everything was gonna print perfect so i just tried again.. same problem so I changed some settings made sure everything was fine and I tried one last time. anddd surprise surprise it clogged AGAIN at this point I was starting to get pretty frustrated and almost just gave up but first I tried one last thing, changing the filament and same damn problem. then I didn't touch it for a while like maybe 4 months before getting the urge to start printing again, I watched every YouTube video, read every article online, and searched Google for hours to find all the possible problems and their solutions, I messed with every setting on the slicer, replaced the nozzle and I tried that dragon once again. this time I got about 70% into the print and I was super excited because it was almost done so I woke the next morning ran to the garage just to find out it failed with the same friggin problem as before. I thought maybe I just had to stick with printing some smaller quicker prints because obviously this dragon was just not working so I did that, and then another problem popped up, the thing wouldn't turn on, I'm not gonna explain the whole process but basically I had to reset the sd card and to get to this point i had spent about 4 hours trying to figure out what had happened and how to fix it when i simply got lucky took out the sd card and it suddenly worked anywau after that i tried printing other smaller prints that had previously printed just fine just to find out that all the other prints I tried were also failing. I bought some more nozzles in a variety of sizes and types of nozzles but before it even arrived I found out a piece of filament had gotten stuck in the Bowden tube again this had happened before and I had to cut off a part of the tube but now it was stuck right in the middle so I had to get a new tube but I was so frustrated with that thing that I just gave up this thing has been nothing but problems and I'm done trying to fix it only for another problem to reveal itself, I didn't talk about all the issues because I'm already tired of typing and you get the idea. I haven't even spent that much money on this to fix the issues because I've read lots of reviews of people spending double the price of the printer itself to try and solve these problems but ended up still broken. TLDR: dont buy this thing sure it's cheap it's one of the most popular beginner printers and really one of the most popular of all time but honestly it's trash, all the problems are just not worth it, I've spent way too much time trying to fix this thing. if you want a decent printer that won't cost you an insane amount of money you can get something like an elegoo Neptune 3 or a anycubic kobra for around 200-300 dollars sure it's more expensive but it will actually work.
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Reviewed in the United States on December 20, 2022 by Eddie M.
Set name: Ender 3 V2
This is my first 3D printer. I've had it about 3 weeks, and I'm already getting comfortable with it. The machine has great stability, and as I imagine with all 3D printers, a learning curve, but once you get familiar with it, it will feel like an extension of your body. As I've stated, I'm new to this skillset, so I won't pretend to be able to compare it with others, but for all you people thinking about getting into 3D printing, I'll lay out what you're looking at getting into... Upon receiving it, you'll have to do a bit of assembly. Nothing too complicated, and there are many walk-throughs on YouTube, that can guide you through the entire process. Its not a must, but having some experience with tools and a bit of problem solving skills will help you out a lot. By the time you're done, you'll have a grasp on how your printer works, which is important when it comes to using and maintaining it. Once you've got it set up, the next thing you'll want to do is look up installing filament and leveling the bed. Again, search for YouTube videos, especially with leveling the bed, because you'll want to pick up a good strategy on this, as it's critical to having success with your prints. The best strategy that I've found is the one using the sheet of paper. At first, it might feel a bit overwhelming trying to get everything just right, but as you use this skill, and lay down some plastic on the bed, you'll get a feel for it, and within a couple weeks you'll be able to do it blindfolded, and you'll understand why it's so important, and what areas you need to pay the most attention with each print. I strongly recommend getting the yellow spring upgrades that you can find on Amazon. Honestly the difference is so drastic, and the cost so cheap, I dont understand why it doesn't come that way. Once you've gotten bed leveling down and the filament installed, you can print an example that's included on the SD card, and give your printer a test run. From here, there are 2 ways you can go about creating things. You can search the web for creations already set up for you to print, or you can create your own. Im not a very creative person, but it made no sense to me to limit myself with other people's creations. So I'll just briefly get you pointed in that direction. To create designs you're going to need CAD software. I found Fusion 360, it's free for hobbyist, and I think it's amazing. Its got a bit of a learning curve, but once you get comfortable with it, you feel the world is yours to create. Using geometry, planes, and extrude tools, you'll be able to model anything you want in real life, or anything you could possibly think of... I have no affiliation with this person, but their tutorials have helped me so much with the software, that in about 10 days I am now designing my own creations like an experienced user. Seriously, search for Product Design Online on youtube...you'll know it's him because he mentions his name in the videos and it's Kevin. He teaches so many helpful techniques. Just be aware that his tutorials span 2 different versions of fusion 360, so the interface looks a little different in some, but you'll get the hang of it easily. One if the best teachers I've found on the internet, period. The next thing you'll need is a splicer software. This software takes your design and slices it into layers. This is where you'll set up the parameters for how your printer will behave during the print too. Such as temperatures, speed, layer thickness, etc...the amount of terms you'll have to learn seems overwhelming, but at first you can just use presets, and learn them as you go. As I've said, I've been doing this for 3 weeks, and I'd say I understand about 80% of this terminology simply by trying to solve errors in my print, and reading the tool tips. By far, the best free slicer I've found is cura. I've tried a few others, but nothing comes close to it. However, I've been told Simify3D makes cura looks like a junky slicer, comparatively. The issue for me is that it costs $150, and I dont have that cash flow. If I did,bid definitely want to try it out, and apparently you can purchase it and get a full refund after 1 or 2 weeks if you preferred cura. So, it's a lot if stuff to learn and get used to...You'll be best served if you have a mechanical & technical know-how, but if you dont, you'll definitely acquire those skills using your printer. There are upgrades for these printers. Not just creality, but all the hobby 3d printers, and you'll learn them over time, but as I stated earlier, the bed springs are a must have, and they're cheap. I wish you the best of luck on your journey, and if you're like me, this will probably become your most favorite that you've ever owned. Happy printing & #PrintOn
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Reviewed in the United States on January 17, 2021 by Chuck
EDIT: Update 8-9-18 The company reached out to me and offered to replace some of the parts that I was having trouble with. I've changed the review from 3 stars to 5 starts for excellent customer service. Original review: I wanted so bad for this printer to be the best entry level printer on the market. Key word: wanted. I purchased this at the end of June as a small step into the 3D printing arena. With the success of the CR-10 (made by the same company as the Ender 3), I felt that the Ender 3 was a wonderful option if you didn't have a need for the large print space that the CR-10 has and were on an entry level budget. That's not to say that the Ender 3 has a small print space. For the price range, this has one of the largest. Assembly of the Ender 3 can definitely test your patience. If everything is not lined up just perfectly when you tighten all of the screws down, your end result will be a wobbly 3D printer. (FYI, the packaging that the printer came in helps resolve this issue if you set the printer on top of it.) Some of the first prints that I did weren't difficult to print as I wanted to ease into all of the features this has. Here's a quick list of my pros and cons: Pros: - Ease of use - The menus are easy to find and understand. It's incredibly simple to put your stl file on the micro SD card and start printing. While the placement of where the SD card goes in is a bit of a headache, you can get used to it over time. - Bed surface - I like the surface of the heated bed as it really grabs the plastic and it's one less thing you have to worry about (i.e. putting glue on the bed). Some times, it can grab the print a little too well and it makes removal quiet interesting. Cons: - Quality - In general, overall quality of the printer is lacking, but that just may be par for the price point. Prints can greatly vary from "it looks fine" to "what happened?" While I admit some of this may be my fault and inexperience with Cura, I've found that printing the same successful print can also give different results without any of the files being changed. Another quality issue were the rollers either being too tight or too loose from the factory. While some experienced 3D printing people know to look for this, someone who is taking this printer as their first step may not know how this will affect their prints. - Heated bed - Again, I like the build surface of the bed but I thoroughly dislike the bed overall. After spending so much time and effort into leveling the bed, making sure that all four corners are the right height and stay there consistently, disheartened is the best way to describe how it feels when you try and level the center of the bed. No matter what I did, the center of the bed was always too far from the nozzle. To fix this, I raised the bed but that causes all of the corners to now be too close to the nozzle. After much searching online, I came to find that this is a common issue and that the bed could be "cupped". A simple fix is to buy a 235mm x 235mm glass bed but that can be like throwing money at the problem. - PTFE tube and couplers - This issue may not present itself in the beginning but over time, you may notice consist under-extrusion (like having holes or gaps in the print lines) no matter what your settings are. A quick synopses of the issue is the coupler that holds the PTFE tube in the hotend slowly lets the tube back out as filament is fed in. This causes the filament to melt and expand to create a jam. No matter what your settings are in general, you're going to end up with poor print quality. There are videos online on how to get around this but again, you're spending money to fix the problem. Overall, I recommend this printer. While my experience may be vastly different from someone else, I seem to be having a similar experience to many other people online. I love the price point of the printer and that it helps you understand the 3D printing world. My advice is to do your homework. If this printer is exactly what you want and you don't mind that you may have to learn some things to get this running smoothly, then I hope my review has given you some insight.
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Reviewed in the United States on July 30, 2018 by D
First: I UNFAIRLY began this review about the Comgrow Ender 3 stating that: "the pre-assembled Y-Axis shipped with severe dents on all four rollers, and two of the rollers on the X-Axis have minor defects in the form of tiny, shallow cuts that look like bin damage..." I WAS WRONG!!!!! Don't do what I did; I know we just can't wait to slap the machine together and get printing, but if you want to make the Ender 3 perform like a $5000.00 printer, there will be some adjustments and fine tuning to do. Here's where I went wrong: I studied this printer, its reviews, and many different YouTube channels long before I made the decision to buy it, and I understood that motion along the X-Y-Z axis must be smooth as possible, and I viewed at least a couple of videos that said their Ender 3 shipped with "flat spots". So, I put it together following the VERY BASIC (but very well-written, easy to understand) instructions, and both the Y and X axis had "hard, bumpy spots" at regular intervals, where these so-called "flat spots" and "cuts" contacted the extrusion, but instead of looking a little more closely at the setup as MOST of the videos suggested, I made an incorrect assumption because: I DID NOT FOLLOW THE ADVICE OF THE EXPERTS. Comgrow has already contacted me to provide replacement rollers, so their customer service alone has my FIVE STARS, not to mention their patience with impatient 58 year-old children like myself! THANK YOU COMGROW! People, don't get impatient like me: Take the time to examine the pre-built assemblies, and clean the V-Grooves and rollers thoroughly whether they look like they need it or not. This is because tiny bits of soft debris from the packing material, barely visible, can stick to the rollers and v-groove surfaces, and this is what caused me to believe I had flat spots. The next day, I disassembled the axis with problems, but when I examined the Y-axis rollers I saw no flat spots, and the "bin cuts" on the X-axis rollers were too superficial to cause the kind of "binding" I felt when manually sliding the axis. So I started from scratch, this time following the setup tips that I had ignored earlier. (C'mon, give me a break already; I've been drooling over the idea of having a 3D printer for years, so naturally I'm gonna throw the thing together so I can make it run as soon as possible!) After loosening the eccentric rollers, I cleaned each one, and wiped down the v-grooves in the extrusions, re-assembled, adjusted per the instructions, and the motion along both axis was smooth as glass. HERE'S WHAT I LEARNED: * Cleaning the parts before assembly will save you time and frustration... (EDIT 12/27/2018)****ORIGINAL TEXT: Roller pressure adjustment is CRITICAL - Too much pressure on the y-axis rollers cause the build plate to flex, which is why so many Ender 3 newbies complain about a "warped build surface"; it's not warped, the rollers are adjusted too tightly...)*** (NOTE ABOUT THE EDIT ABOVE: WRONG AGAIN! -->The build plate is mounted to a carrier plate on springs captured by adjustment screws; no amount of tightening will cause the build plate to warp, but it will flex the carrier plate.) * The belts must not be slack, but don't over-tighten them either; a belt that is too tight will transmit more resonance and provide less damping, exaggerating "cogging" effects, and placing undue side-load on the stepper bearings... Had I followed the above advice instead of making dumb assumptions, I would have been printing the same evening. The Ender 3's performance is impressive once set up and properly maintained, producing a print for me that was every bit as good as an ABS sample Stratasys sent me. My first print used the sample roll of PLA that shipped with the unit just to test the finish quality, but the sample roll only contains enough PLA filament to complete about 14mm of the SAMPLE DOG, so once satisfied with the mechanical operation, I mounted a spool of black ABS, pre-heated the nozzle and bed, started up SAMPLE DOG again. Once again, I was ignoring the advice of experienced owners because I had not enclosed the printer to improve printing with ABS, but after agonizing over feed rate and fan settings I let the Ender 3 print the SAMPLE DOG knowing certainly that I would return to a rat's nest of wiry black ABS threads, but the print was perfect. (EDIT 12/17/2018) Since the initial review, I have printed many different objects, abandoning PLA altogether, I print exclusively using ABS and PETG. IMPROVEMENTS I MADE OVER STOCK: *Cardboard box enclosure... *Upgraded filament driver parts... *Upgraded PTFE Bowden tube... * Upgraded Bowden tube connectors.. * Borosilicate glass bed, with PEI applied to one side... This setup allows me to make excellent ABS prints with no bed-adhesion problems, so the bed temperature can be much lower, preventing "elephant's foot" and other first-layer problems.
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Reviewed in the United States on November 5, 2018 by Mbunds