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101016001 Pro2 3D Printer, Dual Extruder, Fully Enclosed

  • Based on 21 reviews
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$3,499.00 Why this price?

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Fulfilled by 3D Printlife, LLC
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Features

  • Dual Extruder Electronic driven lifting 4 increased torque performance Diverse Filament Compatibility (300C)
  • Huge Build Volume (12*12*11 8 in) Minimum 0 01mm Layer Height
  • Filament Sensor / Camera / HEPA Filter
  • 7" Touch Screen Resume Print after Power Outage Wireless Compatibility
  • 32 Bit Motion Control Board
  • With 1-Year Limited
  • Extended Available, please contact Raise3D at

Description

Competitive and saleable the Pro2 3D printer improves upon it’s award winning predecessor and provides the next generation of performance

Brand: Raise3D


Material: ABS, PC, PLA, Nylon (PA), Flexible (TPU/TPE), PVA/BVOH, Carbon Fiber Filled Material, PETG, Metal Filled Material, Wood Filled Material See more


Color: Black


Compatible Devices: Laptop, Personal Computer, Smartphone


Operating System: Linux


Is Discontinued By Manufacturer ‏ : ‎ No


Package Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 37 x 28.5 x 28 inches; 130 Pounds


Item model number ‏ : ‎ 101016001


Date First Available ‏ : ‎ May 24, 2018


Manufacturer ‏ : ‎ Raise 3D


Customer Reviews: 3.6 3.6 out of 5 stars 21 ratings


Frequently asked questions

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Top Amazon Reviews


  • Fabulous experience with Raise3d
So this is my second 3D printer. Originally I purchased a $700 printer but wasn't happy with the one I bought - I didn't want a new hobby and didn't want to constantly tinker with or upgrade the machine. I needed to build prototypes. I also wanted an enclosed build chamber and two extruders - one for the object and one for support material. Simple build plate leveling was also important. But I really wasn't in the $4,000 budget range. But I bit the bullet and invested the money. Boy did I make the right decision! The printer (Pro2) is just unbelievable. There is no comparison between it and my old printer. Was perfectly leveled out of the box. Print quality is superb. And their sales and support people are just wonderful. I accidentally gouged the build surface with the included scraper (it is sharp so be careful!). Of course I was upset that I messed up my brand new printer - without even having printed anything on it yet. So I emailed them, explained the situation, and they immediately sent me a new BuildTak surface, no questions asked - although I was the dummy! And the more I use the printer, the more I love it. My very first print was a vase I designed for my wife - 16 hour print and it came out beautifully. So anyway, that's been my experience so far and I just wanted to pass it along. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on June 6, 2021 by makarita associates

  • I was not luckly...
First it is a nice looking printer. I have seen amazing prints from others whom has owned this. I like anothers came with the top cracked. I constantly get layer shifts and little droplets of plastic that has oozed all over the inside. Stringing is a major issue. I started to try to fix it but any retraction near 2.5mm or higher causes a failure. Even 2mm has strings. I tried multiple settings as per customer support. The bed stuck so well that I cut my self on the sharp corners of the bed trying to scrape the failed print off. I would suggest that this printer design get a nozzle wiper. See 3Dwox as an example or even the Taz line. Perhaps if I got a non damaged printer, it would have printed good but that bed...ugh... ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on November 21, 2019 by Rebecca

  • Buy a 3d pen... you will have less problems and print more than from this junk
$4,000 piece of poo. 1st one came by UPS in a flimsy box and cover was cracked (130 lb machine). Touch screen did not work properly, had to use a mouse instead. Replacement 3D printer received from Amazon was even worse. Deck came from factory unleveled, print heads didn't align, and when printing a part with both nozzles there was more than 1/2 misalignment. BOTH HAVE BEEN SENT BACK! ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on January 27, 2019 by Boatnut

  • Good ABS printer for the price, some questionable design decisions
The good: Enclosure and air filter standard. Nice stable platform and dual extrusion. If you need a printer for ABS, this isn't too bad. The hotend fan design is much improved for ABS printing over the older N2: no more fiddling with plugs for air ducts. The bad: You WILL become frustrated with the BuildTak surface, whether it's when it inexplicably loses adhesion even with a thorough soaking in rubbing alcohol, when it bubbles up and messes with your flat surface, or when you learn that Raise3D charges a hefty premium over BuildTak's own pricing for similar sized sheets (evidently the logo is worth 20+ USD). I would save more money by just going with PEI. Good thing BT sells the appropriate sized sheets. ABS overhangs can be messy with this, but I guess that's what HIPS and the second extruder are for. Support knows the machine inside and out, but the tech rubbed me the wrong way. For instance, he downplayed cleaning filament by saying "It's just PLA" (so he's implying that eSun and Matterhackers are lying when they say it's HDPE in the MSDS). That wasn't the remark that stung the most, but there was a definite vibe of "You need to do everything our way" that felt pretty insulting, as though one and a half year's worth of printing didn't mean anything. Why 3 stars? 1. The extruder looks like a Bondtech, feels like one, but support told me it's a Chinese clone. Boo. So I'm thinking those stepper drivers aren't made by Trinamic. You know, I understand it's hard to come up with proper designs, and I know copying is the Chinese industry's way of "innovating", but that is not cool. 2. The enclosure is adequate for its purpose, but there's no air seals anywhere. I don't smell anything while ABS is printing, but that dinky little filter fan doesn't inspire confidence when the printer is cranking out ABS nonstop for days. 3. The nozzle switch mechanism creates a long filament path (for direct drives) with a small PTFE tube that can get shredded if you do a violent atomic pull. Mine survived, but then, I don't yank filaments hard when I do cold pulls. Once in a while you get lucky. It's as though this is like a really short Bowden system or something. It would've been really nice to know not to do that, but I realize that it's tough to be proactive when you're a startup. 4. I've had PLA jams about 20% of the time on the rare occasions I print PLA on this machine (with the lid off and the door propped open), all of which were alleviated by allowing the whole thing to cool down and starting fresh. I'm thinking that tiny heatsink is inadequate for preventing heat related PLA jams. Maybe I should measure it with a thermocouple. 5. (Just remembered) As of this writing (February 2019), the nozzle priming sequence for the printer doesn't effectively prevent a blob of plastic from sticking to the nozzle, getting dragged to the model printing area, and cause the print head to smash into the model a few layers afterward. If the hotend isn't adequately tied down, this can violently rip the hotend from the print head. Ask me how I know. The priming sequence is a software thing that will likely get patched out sooner or later, but the hotend design is vulnerable to this sort of thing (it's not a slot fitting like the E3D V6, nor is it screwed into the print head like a Slice Mosquito, it's merely clamped into the print head with something like a hose clamp), and this can cause serious damage to the heat break and heat sink. So in order to prevent a $80 print failure (replacement cost of the hotend; possibly more if the nozzle switcher is damaged), you need to babysit the print during the initial sequences and grab the wad of initially extruded plastic. You only have about 2 seconds to do it, though, and I've had prints fail because of this. A better idea is to just copy Prusa's MK3 and squirt out a line of plastic far away from the printing area, or copy Lulzbot where they have a brass brush somewhere outside the print area that the print head can self-clean with. 6. When both hotends are at full temperature, they drip plastic. I realize this is a common property of FDM machines, and I realize that it's possible to control the inactive nozzle temperature in the filament override settings, but it's not 100% reliable-- I've seen prints where the machine just flat-out ignored the standby temperature settings, and drip plastic all over the model, even with a wipe tower (I hate the wipe shield, it just makes the hotends drip more plastic on the model, and it is a pain to remove when there are delicate areas in the model). I'd love to switch to Cura where this feature is mature, but no one's come up with a Pro2 profile there for some reason. And no, retraction tuning will not help much here, because this is not a Bowden machine and the filament from the extruder to the nozzle is under minimal tension-- the surefire way to almost eliminate this is to let the inactive hotend cool to well below printing temperatures. 7. Yes, 10 micron Z resolution sounds amazing on paper, but it's not like they have a profile ready to go in IdeaMaker. You need to tune the slicer in order to make it work. So if you need ABS printing with a standard enclosure and dual extrusion support and you don't have the money to buy a Stratasys, this isn't a bad way to go about it. Just buy it direct from them, keep in mind the things I mentioned (no cold pulls, use PEI), and you should be off to the races. If, however, you want a relatively stress free experience and you can live with PETG or nylon in lieu of ABS/ASA/HIPS, get an original Prusa, a Lulzbot, or an Ultimaker. Knowing what I know now, I would definitely avoid styrenes unless absolutely necessary, and then I would strongly recommend setting up the proper ventilation or filtering systems. PETG is reportedly hot right now, and there's a reason for it: It's strong enough in many circumstances, it has practically no emissions as it prints, it's almost as easy as PLA, and it absolutely beats the pants off of ABS in overhangs. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on February 15, 2019 by 2-bit reviewer

  • Perfect printer 10/10. No Issues.
Was originally cautious due to some of the bad reviews I had seen on this printer but ultimately glad I took the risk. The 2019 reviews about bad shipping and misaligned bed almost had me purchase a different printer but the features and large size of the print bed kept drawing me back. Not sure if others who ordered just had really bad luck or whether something changes in 2020 but the printer I received was packed fantastic and all parts came in perfect and without a scratch. The internal mechanisms were so well packed that it took me about 30 minutes to remove securing brackets and cable ties or foam inserts. Just make sure to follow the step by step guide for what to remove and when to do it (before or after power up). Printer came with everything I needed and 2 spools of pla (white and red). Knock on wood but have been printing for 5 days non stop without any jam issues and fantastic print quality. While this may not be the printer for a beginner due to the price point it’s a turn key printer, at least it was for me. Only con was I had to upgrade the firmware to enable cloud connectivity and to monitor the printer from my phone but really not a big deal. Overall 10/10 and I’m so happy I took the risk. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on April 26, 2020 by Squilliam Fancyson

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