Creality K1 3D Printer with 600mm/s Printing Speed 2000mm/s² Acceleration, 300℃ High-Temp 32mm³/s Flow Hotend Auto Level Dual-Gear Direct Extruder Printing Size 8.66x8.66x9.84 inch
Condition: New
Checking for product changes
Notify me when this product is back in stock
Buy Now, Pay Later
As low as
/ mo
Learn more
- – Up to 36-month term if approved
- – No impact on credit
- – Instant approval decision
- – Secure and straightforward checkout
Payment plans are offered through our trusted finance partners Klarna, PayTomorrow, Affirm, Afterpay, Apple Pay, and PayPal. No-credit-needed leasing options through Acima may also be available at checkout.
Learn more about financing & leasing here.
Selected Option
Free shipping on this product
30-day returns
Learn more
30-day refund/replacement
To qualify for a full refund, items must be returned in their original, unused condition. If an item is returned in a used, damaged, or materially different state, you may be granted a partial refund.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
Availability:
Unavailable
Recently Viewed
Model: K1
Features
- Faster and More Efficient: Creality K1 3d printer, equips 600 millimeter per second printing speed and 20000 millimeters per square second acceleration, it is 12 times faster than the other normal 3d printer. Give good printing experience to customers and get a good model in short time
- Efficient Printing: With flow max 32 millimeters per square second, K1 has a new ceramic heater, encircling the entire hotend, it can heat to 200 degree in 40 seconds quickly and melts the filament instantly. Its max heating temperature is 300 degree
- Easy Start to Print: With one-tap self-inspection, K1 helps you start the printing job easily. Also, there is a strain sensor in the heatbed for more precise auto leveling without any operation or attention. Which can help to level the hot bed easily and quickly, saving much time in this process
- Dual-gear Extruder: Enables smooth feeding, it supports a wide range of filaments and performs well even when printing with flexible filaments, such as TPU. The Creality K1 all-in-one 3d printer incorporates a specialized direct extruder called the "Sprite," which is designed to handle flexible filaments with precision. This all-metal extruder is equipped with dual gears. It allows for a powerful and uniform extrusion force of 80 Newtons, ensuring smooth and consistent filament feeding
- Upgraded Design: It can print via USB drive or Lan, different printing mode meets different customers demands. Smart G-sensor to resolve ringing for high-speed printing. Accurate Z-axis positioning for less Z-banding. The dual fans keep models cool with directional air ducts on the printhead and an auxiliary fan in the build chamber for prompt cooling
Brand: Comgrow
Material: Aluminum
Product Dimensions: 13.97"D x 13.97"W x 18.89"H
Item Weight: 27.55 Pounds
Compatible Devices: Laptop, Personal Computer
Product Dimensions: 13.97 x 13.97 x 18.89 inches
Item Weight: 27.6 pounds
Item model number: K1
Date First Available: January 15, 2024
Manufacturer: Creality 3D
Country of Origin: China
Frequently asked questions
This product is currently out of stock. Please check back later for shipping info.
Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
- Klarna Financing
- Affirm Pay in 4
- Affirm Financing
- Afterpay Financing
- PayTomorrow Financing
- Financing through Apple Pay
Learn more about financing & leasing here.
Similar Products
![[2024 New] Creality K1C 3D Printer Up to 600mm/s Fast Speed, Reliable Carbon Fiber Printing, Anti-Vibration Design, Auto Calibration for Leveling, Pre-Assembled & Smart OS 3D High Speed Printer](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61Xq4Z-5x7L._AC_US500_.jpg)
Top Amazon Reviews
I was really surprised at what this printer can do. I have 5 of them now and use them for production parts in my valve and machine. I even print sprockets using a chain drive and PC carbon fiber PETG carbon fiber. I have upgraded all of them a bit. All have direct drive extruder and the all metal hot ends, as I print at 248C and the Teflon tube cannot take that temperature very long and will cause a blockage in the hot end. The hottest I have had to print so far is 255 and it works great. You can buy a cheap “heat break” that makes the Creality hot end “all metal”. Three have the dual Z axis kit on them, and the other two still single and print fine. But the single Z's need leveling more often. I put all aluminum extruders on and have no issues with feed. I have never had to adjust the E steps, nor have I upgraded the firmware, as they all work and print parts within .02 mm. The only issue I had was three of them had .4 mm nozzles were not .4 mm, from the factory, and that caused some funny prints with the walls separating. I used a digital caliper and measure the filament coming out of the nozzles at under .3 mm. Now with every nozzle install I run some filament out and see if it, shows 0.4 exactly on all the replacements. All the walls print strong now. I think that Creality got some .3 mm nozzles with .4 marking. To get perfect prints requires some testing and working on the printers. I print almost exclusively PETG and many different brands depending on he price. I noticed that some I bought direct from China were “wet” and so I bought dryers. All the PETG I dry before using and get no “blistering” where the moisture expands under heat. I just don't have time to keep reprinting because of moisture. I also print some TPU and at on time printed over 500 of these “rubber” grommets that our supplier stopped making during the COVID shortages. The main thing is to assemble it correctly so that the X bar is level and the wheels (with the pom tires) can actually spin with some friction. You can measure with a metric tape or rule and get it within .5 mm. I actually drilled a 5 mm hole in the vertical to be able to get the X axis perfect. The hole allows the Allen wrench to loosen the X cross member so you can level it without having to keep removing and adjusting the whole X axis bar. The verticals need to be square to the base and they are very close. On two I put the triangle rods to get it perfect. I used a machinist square to get it perfect. Smooth is the keyword. You don't want any "jump" from the Z axis (rising axis). Parallel and 90 deg to the bottom frames. After about 6 months I installed the dual Z axis and that was simple enough. This one change made it so I can print the same part over and over up to 100 times without having to tram the bed. Also called leveling. `After some time I learned that he Z limit switch will get out of calibration and that spraying it with canned air removes the dirt or whatever is changing the stop point. I think an LED version would be better. On the beds, every one of them has had loose axles on the wheels. The 5 mm screws with 8 mm nuts needed to be tightened. To do this you need to loosen the offset wheels so you can get them vertically stable. There should be absolutely NO wobble in the bed. If you feel any, stop and tighten the rollers. I have had to replace three rollers where the bearings were bad and the wheels wiggled on the shafts. Always adjust the cam 10mm so the wheels can move with slight friction. Over tight causes problems and too loose is also bad. Just so they spin with friction. No wobble side to side or when you lift the corners of the bed. Every screw on the printer needs to be checked for tightness. EVERY screw. Loose screws are a nightmare. Even on my $1000 big printers, all of them needed to have the screws tightened, even the screws under the bed. No wobble and you will have “happy printing”. I have not put the auto bed leveling on as it actually takes longer to print with it (on my other printers). I use only glass on the beds (I scrapped off the magnetic sheet and cleaned with alcohol) and still use the doubled standard printer paper to set the level. I just got “good” at it. Then when the print starts sometimes, but rarely, I will tweak the adjustments. I usually print a skirt with three lines so I can “feel” the thickness of the first layer. I did put the stronger bed springs on also, this gives more stability. I use the Ultimaker Cura (updated)and it has more adjustments than most beginners can use. But as you learn you can make slight adjustments and try them out and see things improve. One of the good things is this printer is so popular you can find lots of YouTube videos to help you. And parts can be found on Aliexpress for the same parts way less. The all come from China, anyway. I have five of these Ender 3 Pro's now, bought two from Comgrow Amazon, came with the glass bed plates. I print almost exclusively PETG at 248c Nozzle and 85C bed temp, (this makes for very good layer welding) and bought the Creality glass plates and the Bed Weld, water based adhesive so the PETG will let go. The higher temp is to insure both a good layer weld and that the cooling will cause the parts to just come of very easy. Once printed they just come off very easy. If I dry the filament I get almost NO stringing. I can't stress how important dry filament is for nice prints. The metal flex plates and the ones that come with the printers magnetic plastic do not work with PETG at all. They are ruined after two prints. Glass is the best with the Layerneer Bed Weld and I have no problems with adhesion and removal. Just have to wait for cooling. The prints come off as if nothing was holding them when it cools. The parts in the photo are actually functional parts that we can't get from a supplier.. So, naturally I made a CAD drawing and made them. The trick with functional parts is to make the plastic about 1/3 thicker than on injection molded, because of the tiny gaps caused by the space between the "lines" of print. It is not 100% solid even if it looks like it is. And most of my prints use 100% infill because hey are parts getting some heavy use. Overall, it is a good choice and a workhorse printer. For the money it still can't be beaten, That is why the 5 stars. But for those who are “technically challenged”, you may get frustrated with the learning curve. After a few hundred prints you will be a pro. Watch the videos as there are tons of them. There may be equally good or better printers for the price, but the availability of parts, upgrade parts and help resources for these printers is amazing.
...
show more
Reviewed in the United States on September 1, 2021 by James Arjuna Sr James Arjuna Sr
Model: K1 Max
If you're in the market for a 3d printer you should really consider this one whether you're a beginner or an experienced Maker. I have several open frame printers and some enclosed that I really like but this is my new favorite. If you're new to 3d printing, be patient and follow the directions when assembling. When setting up your new awesome machine, a few things to keep in mind: Accessibility The default filament spool is on the back but there are a variety of options to place your filament elsewhere. You can 3d print side mounts, standalone mounts, or purchase a dryer and have your filament fed to the printer. Also keep in mind you will be removing the lid frequently and there are several cool options on various sites to 3d printer a lid riser. Stability This type of printer frame is FAST compared to a typical sling bed printer such as Prusa, Tenlog TL-D3 Pro, or any other NON "coreXY" type frame. So much that it will shake a lightweight table, a Swedish side table ;), or anything not very stable or secure. Software The included Creality Print version 5 slicer is very capable, easy to use, and works great! I enjoy it for a lot of everyday prints. If you're looking greater control, then OrcaSlicer works very well depending on your need. Frankly Built on YT has some fantastic reviews on this awesome machine. Multi-material There are options if you're looking to print multiple filaments. Creality was supposed to release the CFS over the summer with the K2, but it has been delayed until November which I am looking forward to. There are several 3rd party options available now however the best that I've found so far is 3d Chameleon. 3D Chameleon has come a long way but still requires a lot of tinkering. Overall, I highly recommend the K1 Max whether your new to 3d printing or are a seasoned pro.
...
show more
Reviewed in the United States on October 20, 2024 by vikthor