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PROXXON Chop and Miter Saw KGS 80, 37160 , Green

  • Based on 143 reviews
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Availability: In Stock.
Fulfilled by PROXXON Inc.

Arrives Saturday, May 11
Order within 9 hours and 13 minutes
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Features

  • For clean and safe chop and miter cuts in non-ferrous metals, plastics and wood
  • Ideal for miter cuts, instead of swivelling the saw head, the table with clamped down work piece is turned
  • Continually adjustable round table made of pressure-cast aluminum swivels 45 degrees in both directions with positive stops at 15 degrees intervals
  • Integrated tightening mechanism with self-centering clamps, V-groove for round pieces, front side groove for clamping thin work pieces
  • Scope of delivery: 1x PROXXON Chop and Miter Saw KGS 80 including carbide tipped saw blade. Part number: 37160

Description

By using the fence and counter-rotating the table 2x 45 degrees, one can get the opposite angles for two equally long framing pieces by simply reversing them. Powerful, very quiet DC motor. Power transfer via belt drive. Carbide tipped saw blade 80 x 1.6 x 10mm (3 1/8" x 1/16" x 3/8"), 36 teeth. Base with round table of pressure-cast aluminum and CNC-machined guides and fittings. Other technical data: Volts 110 - 120V AC, 60Hz. Max. Power 1/4hp (200W). Speed 5,400rpm. Table area 9" x 9" (230 x 230mm). Weight 12 lb (6kg). From the Manufacturer Proxxon Chop and Miter Saw KGS 80 for clean and safe chop and miter cuts of non-ferrous metals, plastics and wood. Ideal for miter cuts. Instead of swiveling the saw head, the table with clampped down work piece is turned. The laterally moving saw head prevents colliding of the saw blade with the vise jaws. This allows for a minimal gap between the work piece vise and the actual cut, which is vibration-free and leaves no burr. Powerful, very quiet DC motor. Power transfer via quietly operating toothed drive belt. Comes with 3-1/8" 24 tooth carbide saw blade.


Brand: ‎Proxxon


Color: ‎Green


Blade Material: ‎High Speed Steel


Surface Recommendation: ‎Wood, Plastic, Metal


Power Source: ‎Corded Electric


Special Feature: ‎Brake


Included Components: ‎Bare-tool


Product Dimensions: ‎15.55"L x 9.84"W x 12.4"H


Voltage: ‎120 Volts


Amperage: ‎15 Amps


Item Weight: ‎13.2 Pounds


Speed: ‎5400 RPM


Blade Length: ‎8 Inches


Number of Teeth: ‎36


Number of Batteries: ‎1 Lithium Ion batteries required.


Cutting Angle: ‎45 Degrees


Wattage: ‎200 watts


Manufacturer: ‎Proxxon


Part Number: ‎37160


Item Weight: ‎13.2 pounds


Product Dimensions: ‎15.55 x 9.84 x 12.4 inches


Item model number: ‎37160


Batteries: ‎1 Lithium Ion batteries required.


Is Discontinued By Manufacturer: ‎No


Material: ‎Steel


Item Package Quantity: ‎1


Special Features: ‎Brake


Batteries Included?: ‎No


Batteries Required?: ‎No


Warranty Description: ‎Limited Warranty of PROXXON Power Tools for home and hobby use. PROXXON Inc. warrants to the original purchaser only that all PROXXON consumer power tools will be free from defects in material or workmanship for a period of two years from the date of purchase. Seller's sole obligation and your exclusive remedy under this limited warranty and, to the extent permitted by law, any warranty or condition implied by law, shall be the repair or replacement of parts, without charge, which are defective in material or workmanship, and which have not been misused, carelessly handled, or mis-repaired by persons other than Seller or Authorized Service Station. This limited warranty does not apply to tools used for commercial manufacturing and construction applications as well as accessory items such as circular saw blades, drill bits, router bits, jigsaw blades, sanding belts, grinding wheels and other related items and accessories. Damage to the product resulting from tampering, accident, abuse, negligence, unauthorized repairs or alterations, unapproved attachments, or other causes unrelated to problems with material or workmanship are not covered by this warranty. Any implied warranties shall be limited in duration to two years from date of purchase. Some states in the U.S. and some Canadian provinces do not allow limitations on how long an implied warranty lasts, so the above limitation may not apply to you. In no event shall seller be liable for any incidental or consequential damages (including but not limited to liability for loss of profits) arising from the sale or use of this product. Some states in the U.S. and some Canadian provinces do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential damages, so the above limitation or exclusion may not apply to you. All warranty claims must be accompanied by a copy of the packing slip, invoice, or other proof of purchase.


Date First Available: October 2, 2003


Frequently asked questions

If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is: Saturday, May 11

Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.

To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.

View our full returns policy here.

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Top Amazon Reviews


  • A VERY GOOD TOOL WITH A FEW DESIGN ISSUES THAT AFFECT PRECISION
This is a very high-quality tool, which is what I expect from Proxxon. That said, the design of this saw leaves a bit to be desired. First, a mini tool like this ought to be expected to be performing rather fine work, rather than gross work as might be expected of a larger tool. The shortcomings of the tool include the following: 1. The work positioning guide (or “plate” per the manual) has a spring washer between the nut and the pivoting guide. This device introduces something like 0.250” of “slop” in positioning the work. 2. Because of the needed heavy springs to return the blade to its starting position, the left/right positioning shaft/screw (or “tension handle” per the manual) rotates as the saw is lowered, thereby introducing about 0.010” of left/right movement of the saw blade. 3. The positioning shaft/screw (or “tension handle” per the manual) moves the head of the saw by means of a captive nut in the saw base housing. This has the potential to introduce about 0.030” of “slop” in the position of the saw blade. 4. Finally, the rotation of the shaft/screw (or “tension handle” per the manual) transfers its left/right movement to the saw head by means of a collar with a set screw on the positioning shaft/screw which resides in a slot in the saw head casting. This appears to introduce about 0.010” to 0.015” of “slop” in the position of the saw blade. Totaling up the above “slop” in the work and saw blade positioning, indicates that as much as a total “slop” in the positioning of a cut on the work by as much as 0.305”. This is way too much uncertainty in a tool that ostensibly should be a precision tool, especially as this lack of precision is unpredictable from cut to cut. The sad thing is that only fairly minor re-design of a few details of the tool could easily eliminate all or nearly all of this lack of precision. I note that at least one of the on-line reviews of the tool mentions this issue, though only as a casual observation. I believe (and hope) that Proxxon will be motivated to improve this tool so that it is consistent with the quality of their other tools, particularly given the relatively premium price that Proxxon garners for their product. I will modify the tool so that it will provide the precision that I need, but wish Proxxon had provided that in the first place. Update 1/31/21: I have made modifications to the saw that will provide the precision that I need for making very short steel parts, where serious precision is needed. I am cutting hardened steel shafts to a length of about 1/2". So, the imprecision mentioned above of about 1/3 inch is really not workable, especially as it is unpredictable from one cut to the next. Now, you could probably do these cuts on a vertical mill (which i have), but the set-up would be very time-consuming and the cuts would need to remove a lot of material using a mill. And, I really want a tool that is dedicated to this work, and not needing to be set up for small quantities of "production" work. I will describe the fixes in the order mentioned above. 1. The work positioning guide (or “plate” per the manual) has a spring washer between the nut and the pivoting guide. This device introduces something like 0.250” of “slop” in positioning the work. The solution here is simply to remove the spring washer, and snug up the lock nut to where there is almost zero play in this plate. There is still just a little play, but now it can be kept at zero by holding the work piece snugly against the plate when tightening the jaws. See 1st photo. 2. Because of the needed heavy springs to return the blade to its starting position, the left/right positioning shaft/screw (or “tension handle” per the manual) rotates as the saw is lowered, thereby introducing about 0.010” of left/right movement of the saw blade. This problem is solved, providing zero slop due to the fix for item 3 below. I actually calculated this imprecision based on a quarter turn of the shaft as you bring the saw head down (using the thread pitch of 1.25 mm), and it is actually 0.012 inches. My prior guess of about 0.010 was pretty close. No photo on this one. 3. The positioning shaft/screw (or “tension handle” per the manual) moves the head of the saw by means of a captive nut in the saw base housing. This has the potential to introduce about 0.030” of “slop” in the position of the saw blade. I measured the slop directly using a feeler gauge (much faster than setting up a dial indicator) and it is right at 0.060 inches. About twice what is previously guesstimated. See two photos showing the nut at both ends of the spot in the base casting in which it resides. There are two possible solutions to this problem. The first is to simply add another nut on the shaft and use it as a jam nut to hold the original nut at one end or the other of its space within the casting. I show a photo of the jam nut on the outboard end of the positioning shaft. This position will limit how close the blade can be positioned to the vice jaws, so it would be better to have it in the inboard position if your work piece is short. This added nut will need to be tightened securely every time you set of the saw for a cut, which is not too bad if you really want to have good precision with this tool. Fortunately there is good access on the back side of the saw to slip in an open-end wrench. This fix reduces the slop from the nut to zero, and it will also keep the positioning shaft from rotating when you lower the saw head to make a cut. Being the stubborn person that I am, I also came up with an alternate solution, which was to grind an aero lock nut to fit precisely in the space where the original nut resides. See photo. This was a bit of a tricky thing to accomplish so most folks will probably just want to add a second nut. The aero lock nut grips the shaft so tightly that it makes the knob quite hard to turn, so this solution introduces a new problem, meaning that a larger knob will need to be added to the little knob on this shaft. I'm not sure which solution I will stay with. 4. Finally, the rotation of the shaft/screw (or “tension handle” per the manual) transfers its left/right movement to the saw head by means of a collar with a set screw on the positioning shaft/screw which resides in a slot in the saw head casting. This appears to introduce about 0.010” to 0.015” of “slop” in the position of the saw blade. I measured this slop directly using a feeler gauge. It is right at 0.036 inches, or more than twice my original guesstimate. The solution here is to simply add another collar to “trap” the saw head on the shaft. See photo. Now, some of the good news is that the folks at Proxxon were very nice when I went to order a couple of parts, including the nut and another collar. In fact, they sent me the parts at no cost. See photo of the parts, and the part numbers. So, bottom line is that just about 100% of the slop in this tool can be fixed by removing one part, and installing two small inexpensive factory parts. 2/13/21 update. So, I did decide to go with the aero lock nut solution to the slop in the blade positioning shaft (with the knob on the end). As I mentioned above, this solution makes it very hard to turn the shaft, so I took my modifications one step further. As you can see in the photo I added, I removed the factory knob. Noting that the end of the shaft has been swaged (smashed) to make the end of the shaft out of round (and in the process places two flats on the shaft), so it won't allow the plastic knob to spin on the shaft. I ground the shaft down to make it round. I then purchased a larger nob (45 mm diameter) with seven "lobes" on the knob, and an 8 mm x 1.25 shaft on the knob. I also purchased an 8 mm x 1.25 coupling nut. I drilled the coupling nut on one end so it would allow the shaft to slide into one end, and I cut the threaded shaft on the new knob so it would screw into the coupling nut a little less than halfway. Finally, I drilled the coupling nut for 4 set screws 1/8" in length. Then I put it all together as shown in the photo. The final result is a knob that you can get at with a full grip as it now sticks out past the base plate and allows you turn the shaft against the hold of the aero lock nut. And, yes, I know that some of you will think that all these modifications are a PITA, but if you need/desire real precision in this tool, it is all very much worth it. I am going to post this on my FB page so you'll be able to message me to get additional details if you so desire. Look for James Waltz. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on March 17, 2021 by James P. Waltz

  • Badly designed, dangerous and overpriced mish mash
If I save someone a trip to the emergency room I'll consider this review time well spent. This is difficult for me to write because I'm very angry with Proxxon. They make a big deal about being a German company and really play it up with their YouTube videos with a German accented male holding forth on their fine precision products. I want to leap at their throats because I'm furious but I'm going to work at toning down the drama in the hope that the review will be taken seriously. I know that when I read a review heaped with invective and slurs that I discount the message accordingly. Let me begin by describing my primary intended use for the Micro Chopsaw. I make gadgets that are powered by little stepper motors. Stepper motors are most easily mounted by attaching them to standoffs made from either delrin or aluminum rod. The motor is coupled to and rotates a leadscrew which, in turn, drives a nut which is usually attached to a moving table. Precision alignment is crucial to correct operation. The standoffs that I cut must be the same length to within a few mils. Otherwise the leadscrew will bind when the table comes close to the motor. The Proxxon chopsaw looked ideal. It includes an adjustable rod with a rotatable stop to allow setting up for cutting pieces of the same length. Heaven. So the saw arrives and I set it up. The first rumblings of my discontent begin when I notice that they do not provide an inexpensive stamped open ended wrench to hold the arbor while loosening the screw that fastens the blade. I've purchased many power saw tools in my life and they have ALWAYS come with ALL the necessary tools to change the blade. Naturally I thought that this was a simple oversight - a packing error. But, when I went to the manual, to my shock and dismay, they tell me that I'll need to furnish my own open end spanner wrench to change the blade. Proxxon touts the ability to move the saw blade right or left by twisting on a large knob on the back left side. What they didn't tell me was that I would have to apply about sixty inch ounces of torque to make the bloody thing turn! That's nearly five pounds of pressure. Go balance a bag of sugar on your finger if you want to know what that's like. Not exactly the delicate dial-in process I was expecting. Whatever! I prepare to make a test cut on some aluminum rod. I mark it and place it in the vice that is the Proxxon substitute for the standard back fence on woodcutting chop saws. My intention is to align the piece with the blade and then set the rod stop so I can make repeat cuts. Then I realize I can't see the right side of the bloody blade - it's totally obscured by the polycarbonate blade guard and the overhanging motor. When I lower the blade I am appalled to find that the power switch on the front side of the handle is NOT a safety switch that requires it be moved slightly to the left or right before it can be turned on. It's a simple soft touch push button switch that's easy to accidentally push when pulling on the release lever on the back - they are lined up with each other. And that's NOT what I want to happen when I have the blade pushed down against an unsecured workpiece while I adjust it! Now I suppose I could get on my knees and hold a flashlight in my mouth, use my left hand to adjust the workpiece, my right hand to carefully hold the blade down against the workpiece but that's not my idea of fun. Or I can use my left hand to crank vigorously on the blade positioner - not fun either. Why do I have to get on my knees? Because Proxxon decided to mount the motor on the right rather than left side. Consequently the motor assembly completely obscures the right side view of where the cut will occur when the blade is lowered to the workpiece. The blade is only three inches in diameter so the clearance under the motor is just over an inch. If Proxxon had done the sensible thing they would have mounted the motor on the LEFT side over the vice to allow an open view of the cutting area. This would have required nothing more than have the motor turn in the opposite direction. I discovered, as will many others I suspect, that by removing the cap nut that secures the blade guard I can raise the guard and have the view of the right side so I can lower the blade and adjust the workpiece. But now the blade is totally exposed and my right hand thumb can easily turn on the saw as I release and lower the blade. I did this and it really frightened me - the saw has a two hundred watt motor and it's quite capable of taking off a finger if I'm fiddling around with the workpiece in the vice. Just imagine this - I am adjusting the length with a tape measure on a workpiece that is loose in the jaws (so I can move it) and suddenly the saw powers up when the blade is touching the work. That's a situation that has a lot of bad outcomes since my fingers are much too close to the blade for comfort and the motor on this thing is quite strong. It's actually worse than that if one is right handed. I need to hold the tape in my right hand so I have to use my left (and clumsier) hand to pull the trigger release and lower the blade. It feels terribly awkward and is very dangerous. Now perhaps I shouldn't be pushing a tape blade up against the side of the saw to make a measurement. But that's often the fastest accurate and most convenient way to get the job done. And it's the way I have made measurements on chopsaws for years. On my 12" DeWalt there is no risk of harm since it has its power switch situated on the inside of the handle and requires a lot of force. Stepping back a bit, I question Proxxon's decision to lock the blade in the up position to begin with. I know of no other chop saw that locks the blade up. It would make a lot more sense to have a safety power switch on the back side of the handle, like most chopsaws, and no lock. The lock increases rather than diminishes danger - quite the opposite of what was intended, I'm sure. Surely there is no danger in being able to freely raise and lower the saw. What's dangerous is accidentally turning on the juice. Back to the main story! I finally get the saw set the way I want and cut off 1 inch of .250 aluminum bar. Pling! I still haven't found it. It's in the room somewhere. The right side of the workpiece is suspended in mid air so when the coarse carbide blade completed the cut it also threw it far far away. If the saw had a fence the right side piece could easily be held in place with a push stick to prevent it from moving when the cut completes. It is clear that Proxxon intends the piece on the right side of the blade to be the result the cut - that's why the measuring stop is over there. I suppose I could hold a piece of tubing over the piece when cutting so that it is trapped inside. But that seems a bigger hassle than using a push stick against a fence. Others have noted that it is quite possible to adjust the blade so that it will run into the edge of the vice jaws. What they don't mention, however, is that these jaws are made of hardened steel and will damage the carbide teeth on the thirty dollar sole source blade. There is no need for the vice jaws to be made of hardened steel. They could just as well be made of aluminum so that accidental contact from the blade would do no harm aside from trimming the jaws a bit. I realize that aluminum is soft but this is a saw primarily for plastic and soft metals. Even the fellow cutting steel tool blanks wouldn't harm aluminum jaws by holding square stock. The measuring stop is secured with a lock nut that had been tightened so much that I had to put it in a vice to break it loose. A locked stop results in the rod itself being rotated when the stop is rotated away from the work prior to cutting. This does two bad things. First, it scores the rod since it is held by a hardened cap screw. Second, it will most likely cause the rod to move in or out while rotating - and that affects the repeatability of multiple cuts. I took off the nut and installed a five cent spring steel tensioning washer. Then I snugged up the nut so the stop could rotate easily on the rod but still stay where it was put. Not exactly rocket science and certainly something Proxxon should have done. Proxxon also should have used a knob screw rather than a hex cap screw for locking the rod stop. I don't want to have to look for an allen wrench every time I need to adjust the length of the stop. And given their unfortunate decision to use a hex head screw, it would have been nice to do what even Sears can manage - put a hole somewhere to hold the allen wrench. Apple was successful because Steve Jobs cared deeply about the products he released. Proxxon, on the other hand, appears to be a marketing group that never bothers to even open up one of their Taiwanese made products and check it for usability. They are much too busy producing slick ads on YouTube misleading the public into thinking that they are producing a fine example of precision German craftsmanship. That really sticks in my craw. All show and no go. This Proxxon tool is a botched up mish mash - half metal cutoff saw and half wood chopsaw. I don't think the product is redeemable even by moving the motor, installing a proper switch and attending to the details such as using a knob screw instead of a cap screw for the stop rod. The decision to use a vice workholder that pivots on a moving table creates the necessity of a dished out area underneath so the blade can clear for all angles. This means the work has to be suspended in midair vs: being up against a fence. Consequently, small work is going to be flung at the completion of the cut no matter what. Presumably most people who are going to spend $200 for a miniature chop saw are going to be cutting small stock. There are a lot cheaper and better choices for moulding and picture frames. In my opinion Proxxon is a company that doesn't care about what they sell or the safety of their customers. I don't trust them and I won't buy their products. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on February 27, 2012 by Amazon Customer

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