Carbon Fiber Filament, PRILINE Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate 3D Printer Filament 1.75mm, High Strength Carbon Fiber 3D Printing Filament 1kg Spool, Black
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Availability:
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Friday, Jul 10
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Style: Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate
Features
- High Strength Carbon Fiber MaterialPRILINE carbon fiber polycarbonate filament is high strength chopped carbon fiber infilled polycarbonate material, which is a perfect alloy of carbon fiber and polycarbonate.
- Engineering Grade Structural Parts Could be PrintedPRILINE carbon fiber polycarbonate filament do need some patient to dial in, but with the wonderful high hardness, intensity and tenacity, the filament works great for engineering grade structural parts which need high stiffness and strength.
- Environmentally Friendly MaterialWhen printing, it doesn't emanate any smells. PRILINE unique carbon fiber material has excellent weather resistance, chemical resistance and environmental protection advantages.
- Dimensional Accuracy & Dry enoughAdvanced control system in production guarantee the filament to be strict tolerances. PRILINE spools undergo thorough drying for enough time before packaging. For Polycarbonate is extremely sensitive to humidity, filament must be store in sealed storage with desiccants or dry for 4-6 hours at 65 C before printing to maintain optimal performance.
- PRILINE Lifetime GuaranteeWe stand behind the quality and performance of our 3D printer filament. No matter what happens, PRILINE is here to support you for a seamless 3D printing experience.
Brand: PRILINE
Material: Carbon Fiber
Color: Black
Item Weight: 1 Kilograms
Item Diameter: 1.75 Millimeters
Brand Name: PRILINE
Additional Features: Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate Alloy
Manufacturer Part Number: PN-US-CFPC
Unit Count: 35.274 Ounce
Manufacturer: PRILINE
Number of Items: 1
Model Number: Carbon Fiber
Included Components: Printer Filament
Material Type: Carbon Fiber
Color: Black
Item Weight: 1 Kilograms
Item Diameter: 1.75 Millimeters
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Similar Products
Top Amazon Reviews
Style: Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate
This filament does take some time to dial in. Be patient. Once you have it dialed in, you'll produce some of the nicest, epic looking, engineering grade parts. After printed and cooled, the parts can be drilled and tapped without any issues with threads warping or pulling out. I am printing on a AnyCubic Kobra Max. I had to modify my printer to print well. But everything I had to do was WELL worth the time and effort. After figuring out my settings in Cura, this filament prints like butter. Thing you need to be successful: - High Temp Nozzle: I tried hardened steel at first and it worked 'ok'. However when I upgraded to a Diamondback nozzle - that was the game changer in quality, reliability and repeatability. - Nozzle Size: Use a larger nozzle size. I started with a 0.6mm nozzle when I started, like the requirements state. If you use anything smaller it will clog. Even the 0.6mm clogged from time to time. I was also still getting inconsistencies with the print using . So I ponied up another $100 and got a 0.8mm nozzle. Prints were MUCH more consistent without losing too much quality. Also it prints faster with a larger nozzle. - Bi-Metal Heat Break: I upgraded my heat break to a hybrid copper-titanium. This helps regulate the temperatures better. Which helps with the next item.... - Bowden Tubes: If you do not have a direct drive extruder, you need to upgrade this. As this filament prints at a higher temp, this tube has a higher heat resistance than the OEM tube. This will prevent melted plastic for clogging the inside of the tube and keep the temperatures down where the bowden tube enters the heat break. I purchased a Capricorn brand bowden tube. Change all the fittings that it comes with as the tube is a slightly different size and these fittings hold onto the tube better. Also make sure to install a lock on them. Either use a zip tie, or what I did was print some locks that can be found on Thingiverse under 'Meister Werks' user name. - Build Plate: Using a PEI build plate works perfect for this material. To prevent warping, use a 5-10mm brim around the circumference of the printing part. You will have to remove and file off the lip around the bottom, but it's fairly easy with a corse file and/or a deburring tool. Settings - Layer thickness depends of the level of detail and size of the print - Small number for small items, larger number for larger items. - Initial Layer: 0.15-0.2mm - Reg Layer: 0.3 Small Prints - 0.4mm Larger Prints - Line Width: 1.2 - w/0.8mm nozzle - Infill Line: 1.2 - w/0.8mm nozzle - Normal Flow: 95-96% - Infill Flow: 91-93% - Print Cooling: *NONE* (Using print cooling will warp your print and will not adhere to the build plate) - Normal Print Speed: 35-40mm/sec - Initial Print Speed: 25-30mm/sec (Play with the speeds. Sometimes you have to slow it down for smaller items. I made 2 profiles for small and large prints) - Print Acceleration: 4000mm/sec *** Any settings I didn't mention, Don' use or just leave off. See photos with settings.
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Reviewed in the United States on April 29, 2024 Reviewed in the United States on April 29, 2024 by Meister Werks
Style: Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate
I absolutely love this filament on my enclosed 3D Printers. The results are astonishing. Storage: This PC-CF is very hygroscopic and has to be kept dry in humid climates. I store the rolls in sealed containers with a lot of desiccant. Usage and Setup: I used a heated filament dispenser when printing to remove any trace of moisture and keep the roll from absorbing ambient humidity while printing. The dispenser is connected via PTFE tubing to the printer, keeping the filament path fully enclosed. In short, I treat it like Nylon. Nozzle: I use a BTT nozzle which is hardened steel encased in brass and then plated. This filament will destroy a normal brass nozzle in a single print. Extruder: I also use hardened steel extruder gears to pull this filament as regular stainless steel teeth are worn down very quickly. Printing: Being PC, this filament requires slow 40mm/sec print speed to properly bond without warping. Nozzle temp seems to vary a bit based on the hot end. My Mosquito prints this filament at 260C while my E3D needs 275C to achieve the same results. This could be variances in the K type thermocouples I used though. Build Plate: This filament stick well to regular PEI with a plate temp of 105C. The only requirement is that the plate needs to be perfectly cleaned with ISO alcohol before printing as any finger oil or debris will affect adhesion. Summary: Properly setup with the right equipment and proper tuning, this filament is professional grade engineering plastic that can do incredible detail, dimensionally accurate, and stronger than aluminum.
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Reviewed in the United States on November 1, 2024 by J. Blackthorne
Style: Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate
This review is for both the Priline Carbon Fiber PetG and the Priline Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate filaments. These are my two favorite filaments, each having different advantages. I've printed more than three rolls of the Polycarbonate, and most of 1 roll of the newer PetG. Both are easy to print and the parts look amazing. I make functional parts used in mechanical assemblies. A year ago I abandoned PLA because PLA parts have a "Cheap" look and deform at relatively low temperatures (such as in a hot car). All my printing is done on Prusa i3 MK3Ss. The only modification I've made is to replace the nozzle with a 0.4mm E3D V6 Hardened Steel Nozzle (a hardened nozzle is required for printing any carbon fiber filament). I print on Prusa's textured bed which gives the bottom layer an appealing finish. PLA has a "Glass Transition Temperature" as low as 60°C/140°F, too low for functional parts. PetG is around 80°C/176°F and Polycarbonate is even higher, making either of these Priline CF filaments suitable for my needs. The biggest benefit of carbon fiber filaments is cosmetic. One would think that CF filaments improve rigidity, but my experience shows that the gains are small if any. In truth almost all CF-PetG and CF-PC filaments, including the Priline, make parts that are not as stiff as PLA, but instead are "Tougher" (by being based on PetG and Polycarbonate). Another benefit to these carbon fiber filaments is that there is little or no stringing. Again, a big problem I have with PLA prints is they look cheap. These carbon fiber filaments make parts that appear much more professional. Of the two filaments, I feel the prints from the CF Polycarbonate look the best, especially the perimeter faces which show no layer lines, instead having a beautiful matte black textured finish. The Priline Carbon Fiber PetG prints are also good looking, but a bit shinier than the Poly (still a much more appealing flat black than you get from normal PetG or PLA). Where the CF-PetG wins big is with minimal wrapping/shrinking, it's very dimensionally accurate. For example I designed a timing pulley, 6" in diameter, 0.4" thick, having 8 top and bottom layers. With the CF-Polycarbonate I could not get it to print completely flat, whereas the CF-PetG printed perfectly. Also with the CF-PetG bridging is much better than the Poly (because the Poly is printed with the fan off). I've discovered a few tips when printing CF on Prusa's textured bed. The textured bed produces a really nice finish on the part's bottom. To get the best finish with CF filaments, I slow printing of the first layer down to 16mm/sec. I find parts look best with more of a matte black than a shiny black color. The textured bottom can appear sparkly rather than matte, especially with the CF-PetG. To get a more matte finish I add a layer of glue stick on the textured bed before printing (I use Prusa's gluestick, others recommend for 3D printing will likely work as well). A cosmetic issue I occasionally have with the Priline CF Polycarbonate is that the bottom layer can show milky whitish streaks (printed on either a smooth or textured bed) detracting from it's otherwise beautiful finish. This is another problem that I've solved by printing on gluestick. For the Priline Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate, I started with PrusaSlicer's profile for "Polymaker PC-Max". Then changed: + Cost: $49 + Diameter: 1.75 + Extruder first layer temperature: 255 + Extruder other layers temperature: 255 + Bed first layer temperature: 100 + Bed other layers temperature: 100 + Max volumetric speed: 6 + Keep fan always on: No + Enable auto cooling: No + First layer speed: 16 For the Priline Carbon Fiber PetG profile, I started with PrusaSlicer's profile for "Prusament PETG". Then changed: + Cost: $49 + Diameter: 1.75 + Extruder first layer temperature: 260 + Extruder other layers temperature: 250 + Bed first layer temperature: 90 + Bed other layers temperature: 80 + Max volumetric speed: 6 + Keep fan always on: Yes + Enable auto cooling: Yes + First layer speed: 16
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Reviewed in the United States on May 28, 2020 by StanleyR
Style: Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate
Overall, I like this filament. It’s pretty strong, has a nice matte finish, and seems to be consistent through more than 20hrs print time, varying print sizes and types. I’d give 4.5 stars if I could... Patience is key. Be sure to get that 1st layer down correctly, on a well calibrated printer. Also, verify your slicer settings to avoid weak walls or poor adhesion or Layer bonding of perimeters to infill, else the print can crumble easily. A good print will be strong but slightly more flexible than PLA, stiffer than ABS or Nylon. Rigidity is good without being too brittle, or too much flex. For printing quadcopter frame and other parts, some slicer (Slic3r) settings that worked well on my Cartesian are: Bed - 100 1st Layer, then 90-95 (probably don’t even need this much heat, depending on build surface) Hotend - 255-260 1st Layer, then 250 Layer 1 - .35-.4mm (for .4 or .5mm nozzle, respectively) Other layers - .2-.25mm for .4 or .5mm nozzle respectively Print speeds - 40/perimeters, outer at 50%, infill 45, solid fill 20, travel 150, 1st Layer 30 Layer cooling - None Retraction (MK8 direct) 2.5mm, 50mm/s, .8-1.0mm Z hop - no wipe or anything fancy Flow multiplier 1.0 (though I did increase flow rate to 105% on the printer for some prints) Brim - 0 distance, 1-3mm width depending on build surface adhesion Infill - 30-50 is plenty for most printed parts 2-3 outer layers depending on layer height, 3 top and bottom Lastly, make sure the filament is stored in an airtight bag or container so it doesn’t absorb moisture. I still use CF PLA most times for strong prints, but I like this CF PC much better than CF Nylon, PETG, ABS, etc., assuming it passes the test of time. Stiffness between PLA (this CF PC filament is less stiff) and ABS/PETG/Nylon (this CF PC is more stiff). Hope this helps someone save the time I lost with the 1st few prints (basically junk due to not taking the time to fix minor printer and slicer settings).
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Reviewed in the United States on September 8, 2018 Reviewed in the United States on September 8, 2018 by Gizmo
Style: Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate
First things first, I love this filament. It prints beautiful, strong parts with good temperature resistance. (Better than basic PETG) On a Bambu X1C it basically just works. (The spool does NOT fit well in AMS though) The one major problem that makes it a 3 star instead of a 5 star: The product says it is polycarbonate carbon fiber, (and maybe there is some polycarbonate in it) but when I needed a material for a project where thermals were a major consideration I actually took the time to validate its thermal performance in my lab oven. Based those tests the HDT (~90°c) is far lower than would be expected from a product called polycarbonate. So if there is any PC in it, it's heavily alloyed. I would really like to see the product description updated to more accurately reflect the actual item. Overall, if you're just looking for an easy, strong and attractive material and you aren't price sensitive I strongly recommend this one. If you actually need polycarbonate though, this will not work for you. The pricing is hard to judge because it's not clear what the product actually is. If the product description was accurate, the pricing would be fine, but since I'm guessing it's a PETG alloy of some kind, it seems over priced. If there is PC in there in some amount maybe the price is fine, but with the inaccurate product info it is hard to tell.
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Reviewed in the United States on November 5, 2024 by Vicctoss
Style: Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate
I bought this filament thinking it might have attributes close to PC with little to no warping and at a good price. Instead, I found prints have low heat tolerance and low tensile strength compared to a plane PC filament (Note: I haven't tried Priline's PC). Also, there are much better alternatives for stiff and strong parts but at higher prices--1.5X for PC, 2x-4x for carbon fiber filled co-polymer/nylon. However, I ended up really liking this filament because it provides professional looking, matt-finish parts that print quickly and accurately without warping at a very competitive price. Essentially, this has become a substitute for most things I would have printed in black PETG, making those items not stand out as 3D printed. It is great for device housings/covers and moderately loaded brackets. I am printing on Prusa i3 mk3, 240C nozzle, 100C bed for first layer, 90C for remaining layers, smooth PEI spring steel bed with light glue stick spread with real Windex, no fan except 50% on bridges. I use 1x multiplier and max volumetric speed of 5.76 mm^3/s and have only tried 0.2mm layer height. Definitely let the bed cool before removing the part, otherwise you may warp it in the process of removal. My trick: I remove the steel sheet and place on top of my ceramic stove top, cooling it down more quickly before removing the part. -------------- 7/23/19 Update...I now print 100C first layer and then 110C for the rest of the print. From the front panel of my printer, I have found I can print this material to the full speed of my printer without any noticeable impact to print quality (after the first layer is laid down). I have cranked speed up to 300% on front panel (200% in silent mode) and still have perfect prints.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 5, 2019 by R. West
Style: Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate
I got to say i am pleasently surprised at how well this filament turned out! All around so much better than Nylon X- cheaper for an entire kg opposed to half kg or 3/4 kg i forget, none of the nylonx warp, and most importantly none of the regret of knowing im getting burned once again by matterhackers! I would always get warping with nylonx on this print- starting from almost the beginning at the first pieces ( unavoidable they are small ) forming ontop of support and going downhill from there even with constant trimming with flush cutters when i hear the nozzel hitting something again. But to my amazement this cf pc has been completely and prestinely flat sofar - a little more than halfway thru 36 hr? print. At every turn it has me acknowledging its its superior. I dont have to be mindful of printing what i might consider a waste later due to price and only having half kg of filament. This whole kg is not what ive been used to lately- dealing with matterhackers and their dedication to grossly overcharge for everything and give less of it while they do it. I can put my tap hammer and scraper away , no more tap tap tap tap TAPTAPTAPTAP tapping prints off the bed with this stuff all you do is look at it and it comes off the bed once its cooled! Again- something foreign to me lately. Could the cf slick looking finish even be slicker? I mean at this point i would be shocked if it wasnt. Oh. And talk about hard! Like a fanatical talmudic (((liar))) in a daycare this stuff is ROCK HARD! All the while printing under 300°c and around 100° (+/- 10°) bed. I am a fan to say the least ! I got a lot of nylon parts to replace i will be getting moreeeee! ///update/// Printing at 265( for best layer adhesion i found ) and 95-100 bed. NO FAN. I was getting layershifts ,mostly due to supports wanting to warp, but was corrected with slower print speeds- specifically on supports, air gap layers and interface layers- but overall slower speeds produced remarkable, dimensionally accurate prints. People that complain about not being an "engineering filament" should have known that from the beginning as printing temps are well below that of pure polycarbonate that requires heated chamber all the re wiring that is involed to remove electronics and ideally even the stepper motors from the chamber. This filament is designed for the low tier printers maxing out at 300°. Any higher would require modifications or industrial printers costing a few thousand dollars minimum. But for a consumer aware of printer / 3d printing limitations that have their expectations in the realm of possibility will not be dissapointed. If your expecting "engineering grade" should by actual engineering grade filament such as pure pc, peek, pekk, ultim ect.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 14, 2021 Reviewed in the United States on May 14, 2021 by Peck Erwood
Style: Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate
I posted three photos the first one shows a comparison between PETG on the left and priline on the right . Definitely a better surface finish and texture with the priline. Second photo shows What happens when you print too cool or with the cooling fan on, you don't get adequate layer adhesion and the part literally can be pulled apart even though the print looked successful and was originally visually indistinguishable from the first photo, the second photo shows the same part printed successfully next to one made from PETG I love the matte black finish of this material. But more importantly it's an extremely strong print which I could not break using reasonable force. The third photo is an extremely large ducted fan shroud 205 mm diameter. What's fascinating about this print is that there is some warpage in a very large print such as this where the outer perimeter literally pulled up off the bed nearly 1/8 of an inch, the center section however remain firmly adhered and print continued and succeeded nicely. Dimensionally this material printed accurately despite the outer perimeter pulling up. I've seen many people recommend all kinds of different temperatures and settings, but I found what works best for me on my PRUSA Mark 3S is as follows first layer 280° C all of the layers 275° C .8 mm retraction 100°C on the print bed for the first layers 90°C afterwards my parts require high finish so I print at .15 mm layer height 15% infill COOLING FAN OFF "except for first layers of bridging" this is of paramount importance !, as hitting this material with cooling air will cause it not to bond its layers correctly. I suspect a lot of people who are complaining about weak parts or bad layer adhesion have their cooling fans turned on. In conclusion I would consider this a material for beginning printers who wish to move to something more structural and durable than PLA, I suspect a lot of people who are complaining about poor layer adhesion or weak parts are not printing this material properly. They are probably either printing it too cold, or their cooling fans are turned on and the layers are being cooled prematurely causing them not to bond together. but, if care is taken and attention paid to detail the results can be quite impressive. Strength wise it's an extremely strong material when printed properly, Edit: after some experimentation, I was able to print this material is fine as 010 layer height with spectacular results. Parts have an almost anodized aluminum look to them. I also had to increase retraction to 5 mm and speed to above 100mm second to prevent the material from blobbing up especially during moves. This material tends to expand in the extruder a good deal when not actually printing.
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Reviewed in the United States on January 11, 2021 Reviewed in the United States on January 11, 2021 by Jaz-Aero Designs