Carbon Fiber Filament, PRILINE Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate 3D Printer Filament 1.75mm, High Strength Carbon Fiber 3D Printing Filament 1kg Spool, Black
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Friday, Oct 23
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Style: Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate
Features
- High Strength Carbon Fiber MaterialPRILINE carbon fiber polycarbonate filament is high strength chopped carbon fiber infilled polycarbonate material, which is a perfect alloy of carbon fiber and polycarbonate.
- Engineering Grade Structural Parts Could be PrintedPRILINE carbon fiber polycarbonate filament do need some patient to dial in, but with the wonderful high hardness, intensity and tenacity, the filament works great for engineering grade structural parts which need high stiffness and strength.
- Environmentally Friendly MaterialWhen printing, it doesn't emanate any smells. PRILINE unique carbon fiber material has excellent weather resistance, chemical resistance and environmental protection advantages.
- Dimensional Accuracy & Dry enoughAdvanced control system in production guarantee the filament to be strict tolerances. PRILINE spools undergo thorough drying for enough time before packaging. For Polycarbonate is extremely sensitive to humidity, filament must be store in sealed storage with desiccants or dry for 4-6 hours at 65 C before printing to maintain optimal performance.
- PRILINE Lifetime GuaranteeWe stand behind the quality and performance of our 3D printer filament. No matter what happens, PRILINE is here to support you for a seamless 3D printing experience.
Description
Priline is a professional manufacturer of carbon fiber 3d printing filament since 2015. We have developed several 3d printing filaments of carbon fiber series , such as carbon fiber polycarbonate, carbon fiber pla, carbon fiber petg, carbon fiber asa, superhard carbon fiber pc, etc. Priline carbon fiber polycarbonate filament is provided with the advantages of both carbon fiber and polycarbonate. With the addition of glass fiber to CFPC, Priline superhard carbon fiber pc not only retains the advantage of CFPC but also provides enhanced rigidity Priline carbon fiber PETG filament is provided with the advantages of both carbon fiber and PETG. Priline carbon fiber ASA has excellent UV resistance, weather resistance and can be used outdoors for along time. Priline Carbon Fiber Filament CarbonFiber Polycarbonate Carbon Fiber ASA Carbon Fiber PETG Polycarbonate Filament Superhard Carbon Fiber PC Founded in 2013, PRILINE is a leading global manufacturer of 3d printing filament. On having the rapid development of more than 10 years, our company integrates R&D, production, sales and service, providing high-quality 3d printing filament to about 200 countries and regions in the whole world. Besides the common filament like PLA, we are especially professional in regard to the research and production of TPU flexible and carbon fiber filament.
Brand: PRILINE
Material: Carbon Fiber
Color: Black
Item Weight: 1 kg
Item Diameter: 1.75 millimeters
Brand Name: PRILINE
Additional Features: Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate Alloy
Manufacturer Part Number: PN-US-CFPC
Unit Count: 35.27 Ounce
Manufacturer: PRILINE
Number of Items: 1
Number of Packs: 1
Included Components: Printer Filament
Model Number: Carbon Fiber
Item Weight: 1 kg
Item Diameter: 1.75 millimeters
Material Type: Carbon Fiber
Color: Black
Frequently asked questions
If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is:
Friday, Oct 23
Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
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Top Amazon Reviews
Style: Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate
Two year update: It has been about two years since I started using this. This is my favorite filament, I use it for almost everything now. Primarily I print for engineers who need tools, jigs, and production use components in factories. They're always amazed by the results. I haven't had a single complaint from a client running industrial applications in continuous production and harsh environments, or from weapon clients using it on sights and accessories, and the only part that failed on me personally was printed too cold and only had 2 walls but was under high load.. My bad, not the material. After CA glue it's still in use :P Unsupported surfaces can curl a little, make sure they're stuck to something like infill. Overhangs even out after a few layers. NO cooling fan unless you want shrinkage to ruin your day. These days I print on bare borosilicate but that only works if your first layers are +/-0.05 (literally) otherwise try hairspray. Buildtak works well with a thicker first layer. Without an enclosure in an air conditioned room its fine, I don't get corners lifting or anything, no infill shrink distorting the surface, its always fine. Curling on thin overhangs is better with an enclosure or better part design. It is a tiny bit runny even when it is the right temperature and retraction only does so much about that so just watch your travels and plan them accordingly, just clean the nozzle and print a short skirt before the part, keeping that 4mm from the print to minimize runs at the start. Printing at high speeds virtually eliminates this, as does pressure control with a direct extruder. Use a retracting spool or something because this is *springy* material. Unbelievably strong once cooled so optional finishing will require machining, grinding, and the like. Taps as well as cast sheet. Dimensionally the parts are much better than any other material I've used. Some say they don't like the finish because of the fibers? I think its beautiful, my favorite looking filament. Also they say harsh fumes and odor...? I don't get it. There is almost no detectable odor, VOC levels are very low, just use a carbon filter if you're concerned. DO wear a respirator while finishing pieces of course. Flame polishing *lightly* removes crazing marks, more than that will give it a shine that doesn't match the part. CA glue mars the finish a little, like any PC, and welds it extremely well. DON'T laser this unless you really are qualified and equipped since PC degrades into scary things, but it does laser engrave and cut as nicely as any other PC. I don't bother drying it, but I operate in the desert where the relative humidity is often around 25% indoors. I don't see any difference at all compared to packing it in dry silica gel even during humid conditions. Maybe if you live in a rain forest it matters? Not for me. 0.2mm nozzles clog due to the fiber length, but 0.4 has never clogged on me. I'm just using hardened steel, no ruby or anything, and my nozzle diameter is the same as it was over a year ago when I started using this one but it will eat brass quickly/instantly. Really, I ruined a brass nozzle in one print, it's a 0.55mm now :p This stuff will challenge you to tune your printer if you haven't mastered that yet but don't get discouraged, it's worth it and it will make you a better operator. The cost might seem high but consider that you need fewer walls, less infill, less supports, it is reliable meaning fewer reprints, less finishing because of the dimensional accuracy, and you get better properties for many use cases. For me it saves money even at this price so I don't hesitate to buy it anymore. I wasted a lot less material developing profiles than I did with PETG at first :) It wasn't *that* painful. When I had a gantry issue causing layer height issues, it wouldn't print for me though. Tuning is everything. With retraction dialed in I have perfect, sharp corners and haven't seen a string in a long time.
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Reviewed in the United States on August 7, 2020 by James D.
Style: Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate
Before purchase I wondered what the difference between the PC CF's offered here was. I bought both and the one labeled "Superhard" PC CF is actually PC_CF_GF, it's label says it also includes glass fiber in addition to carbon fiber. This review is for the "regular" polycarbonate with carbon fiber, not the superhard. This is clearly a blend of some other plastics in addition to polycarbonate because it prints very well at 260-280 degrees. Regular PC requires hotter temperatures. I find that a bed temperature of 100c works well and I've been quite impressed with how easy this is to print. I'm printing parts that need to be strong and I have found that 270 degrees C for the hot end with a bed of 100c works very well and the layer adhesion is high. It also sticks very well to PEI. I use Magigoo to allow it to release at the end of the print, otherwise it would stick too strongly to PEI. So far I haven't had any warping issues and it seems to print almost as easily as PLA which is quite amazing for Polycarbonate. The CF doesn't really make it stronger but I think it contributes to the low warping. Overall, I think this will be my new go-to filament for parts that need to be strong and need to withstand high temperatures. It prints easily at very similar settings to ABS but is better in every way. Make sure you have a hardened steel nozzle as the CF will tear up brass in short order. Easy 5 stars.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 26, 2021 by James McPherson
Style: Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate
I got to say i am pleasently surprised at how well this filament turned out! All around so much better than Nylon X- cheaper for an entire kg opposed to half kg or 3/4 kg i forget, none of the nylonx warp, and most importantly none of the regret of knowing im getting burned once again by matterhackers! I would always get warping with nylonx on this print- starting from almost the beginning at the first pieces ( unavoidable they are small ) forming ontop of support and going downhill from there even with constant trimming with flush cutters when i hear the nozzel hitting something again. But to my amazement this cf pc has been completely and prestinely flat sofar - a little more than halfway thru 36 hr? print. At every turn it has me acknowledging its its superior. I dont have to be mindful of printing what i might consider a waste later due to price and only having half kg of filament. This whole kg is not what ive been used to lately- dealing with matterhackers and their dedication to grossly overcharge for everything and give less of it while they do it. I can put my tap hammer and scraper away , no more tap tap tap tap TAPTAPTAPTAP tapping prints off the bed with this stuff all you do is look at it and it comes off the bed once its cooled! Again- something foreign to me lately. Could the cf slick looking finish even be slicker? I mean at this point i would be shocked if it wasnt. Oh. And talk about hard! Like a fanatical talmudic (((liar))) in a daycare this stuff is ROCK HARD! All the while printing under 300°c and around 100° (+/- 10°) bed. I am a fan to say the least ! I got a lot of nylon parts to replace i will be getting moreeeee! ///update/// Printing at 265( for best layer adhesion i found ) and 95-100 bed. NO FAN. I was getting layershifts ,mostly due to supports wanting to warp, but was corrected with slower print speeds- specifically on supports, air gap layers and interface layers- but overall slower speeds produced remarkable, dimensionally accurate prints. People that complain about not being an "engineering filament" should have known that from the beginning as printing temps are well below that of pure polycarbonate that requires heated chamber all the re wiring that is involed to remove electronics and ideally even the stepper motors from the chamber. This filament is designed for the low tier printers maxing out at 300°. Any higher would require modifications or industrial printers costing a few thousand dollars minimum. But for a consumer aware of printer / 3d printing limitations that have their expectations in the realm of possibility will not be dissapointed. If your expecting "engineering grade" should by actual engineering grade filament such as pure pc, peek, pekk, ultim ect.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 14, 2021 by Peck Erwood
Style: Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate
tl;dr Contains actual chopped carbon fiber. Beautiful prints, no warping, great texture. Questionable amount of actual Polycarbonate in the material. SDS shows a large percentage of PLA. I still like it, but not for structural or heat resistant parts. First off, this filament prints wonderfully. I really enjoy working with it. I originally purchased the filament to print structural parts and noticed its not quite as strong as I would have expected for polycarbonate. I contacted the seller for an SDS sheet and found that a significant percentage of this material is PLA. I'm not even sure the majority of the plastic is PC. This coincides with my testing of the material which shows it being stiffer than PLA but not as strong as polycarbonate. It does need a high temperature to print so there's definitely some PC in there but it's hard to say how much. Here's what the SDS sheet says: Polycarbonate CAS No:25971-63-5 Composition:20%-80% Common chemical name polylactic acid CAS No:26100-51-6 Composition:20%-80% I've inspected both the filament as well as parts under magnification and chopped carbon fiber strands are clearly visible. Some tend to protrude from the printed surface which I suspect aids in layer bonding.
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Reviewed in the United States on October 2, 2020 by Ian
Style: Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate
After some initial frustrations dialing in this filament, I contacted the manufacturer who provided some tips and an MSDS sheet. The manufacturer was really quite responsive and helpful, clearly interested in ensuring that I had a successful experience. I've updated my review with my observations after more experimentation with this filament. Throughout this review I'm going to be comparing this material to PETG, even though it's a PC blend. This is because my primary printing experience has been with PETG, and my goal with this filament was to achieve better precision, better durability, and better temperature resistance than my PETG experiences. Hot end. I'm using a E3D V6 Hot End with Copper Heater Block, Titanium Heat Break, and 0.4mm Nozzle X. The Nozzle X is a hardened nozzle, suitable for printing abrasive filaments. It also has a nonstick coating, and I'm happy to report that this filament easily wipes off the Nozzle X at temperature. Bed surface. I'm using the Prusa PEI sheet, the regular one, not the fancy new powder coated one. My surface prep is exactly the same as I do for my PETG prints, using windex as a release agent. In general this has worked well, though I did tear out a 1mm square chunk of PEI from the sheet by getting impatient and pulling a print off before the sheet fully cooled. Make sure to let your sheet cool before removing the print. Filament diameter. I measured the filament diameter to range from 1.69mm to 1.72mm. This tolerance is fine but make sure to adjust your Slic3r settings accordingly. No Cooling Fan. I'm attaching a picture of a SirLayersalot that I printed at 60% scale with Slic3r's default "Prusament PETG" profile (while this filament is PC, not PETG, I found the settings of this profile to produce cosmetically acceptable prints). This profile included the cooling fan enabled with an auto fan setting of 30-50% and a bridge fan of 50%. Temperature was 240/85 for the first layer and 250/90 for subsequent layers. As you can see in the picture, this yielded a cosmetically nice print. However, and this is the important part, layer adhesion tests using a layer adhesion test model on Thingiverse showed that prints with the cooling fan enabled had compromised layer adhesion. With the fan enabled, I was easily able to break the layer adhesion test by hand. Prints made without a fan yielded a layer adhesion test that I could not break by hand. The manufacturer recommends printing without cooling fan. I second this recommendation -- you've paid for this expensive filament, it's worth taking the time to get a fan-less (or "fan-minimal") profile to ensure the best layer adhesion. Warping. I do not print with an enclosure, and I found warping to be minimal on the size prints that I do. I did have one very wide (from one side of the bed to the other) print pull up on a corner on me, but I've had that same problem with PETG on very wide models. Adding a brim probably would have prevented the issue. Carbon Fibers. After printing with this filament, I usually run a clear cleaning filament through my hot end. Putting that extruded cleaning filament under a microscope, carbon fibers cleaned out of the hot end are clearly visible. They are small hair-like strands. Heat deformation test. I performed a test using this filament together with PETG as a baseline reference, heating a rectangular print up at 5 degree increments, applying some load stress, until I noticed deformation. This filament began to deform at about 100C. The PETG reference began to deform at about 90C. Developing a fan-less profile. I began with the Prusament PETG profile that I used to print the SirLayersalot, and made several changes. First, I increased retraction distance to 2mm, lift-z 1mm, and retraction speed to 50mm/s. The filament does tend to ooze a bit, and the retraction will help prevent ooze artifacts on your prints. Next, I brought the temperature down to 235C. I set the extrusion multiplier to 0.98, to prevent material accumulation on the nozzle. I disabled the "fan always on" setting, and changed the fan speed to vary from 1% to 5%, instead of 30%-50%. These fan speeds I chose not to achieve any cooling, as 5% should be negligible, but rather to enable Slic3r's "slow down if layer print time is below" setting to slow down the print speed for very small layers (more on that in a moment). I set the bridging fan speed to 30%, as I think bridging is one case where some fan is acceptable and useful to achieve decent bridges. You can get the filament to bridge without a fan, but the first layer of bridge will sag a little. It's probably something to evaluate on a print-by-print basis depending on how much bridging you have. I turned on the "detect bridging perimeters" setting. I'm also attaching a picture of a "Prusa Mk3 Nozzle Fan" print that I made with this filament. It took me about a dozen attempts to dial this part in using my fan-less profile described above. The biggest issue was the small mounting tab with the countersunk bolt hole on the top of the print. This tab is a small feature, with small fast layers, and without a fan it is possible to overheat this tab and cause it to sag and deform. The solution, recommended to me on the prusa forum, was to print something else a few inches away on the bed. This technique causes the print head to move away just long enough to keep from overheating and deforming the print. So I printed two of them at a time. After the dozen attempts, I did end up with a nozzle fan good enough to install on my printer. I'm now printing the Mk3S version. The third picture I'm attaching are some large rectangular prints. These are the aforementioned prints that went from one side of the print bed to the other. These are part of a COB LED light bracket that I'm making, where I wanted a bit of additional temperature resistance beyond what I would normally get with PETG. The prints turned out at least as good as my PETG versions, are stiffer, more opaque, more matte, and should have a higher temperature resistance. The final verdict. It took some persistence getting this filament to print well, but I feel the experience was worthwhile. The resulting print is: 1) More rigid than PETG, 2) Has a higher temperature resistance than PETG, and 3) Has a nice matte finish. Plan to invest some time dialing in your settings and try to reduce fan usage to a minimum to achieve the best layer adhesion and part strength. Avoid the fan altogether if you can.
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Reviewed in the United States on April 23, 2019 by S. M. Baker
Style: Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate
First things first, I love this filament. It prints beautiful, strong parts with good temperature resistance. (Better than basic PETG) On a Bambu X1C it basically just works. (The spool does NOT fit well in AMS though) The one major problem that makes it a 3 star instead of a 5 star: The product says it is polycarbonate carbon fiber, (and maybe there is some polycarbonate in it) but when I needed a material for a project where thermals were a major consideration I actually took the time to validate its thermal performance in my lab oven. Based those tests the HDT (~90°c) is far lower than would be expected from a product called polycarbonate. So if there is any PC in it, it's heavily alloyed. I would really like to see the product description updated to more accurately reflect the actual item. Overall, if you're just looking for an easy, strong and attractive material and you aren't price sensitive I strongly recommend this one. If you actually need polycarbonate though, this will not work for you. The pricing is hard to judge because it's not clear what the product actually is. If the product description was accurate, the pricing would be fine, but since I'm guessing it's a PETG alloy of some kind, it seems over priced. If there is PC in there in some amount maybe the price is fine, but with the inaccurate product info it is hard to tell.
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Reviewed in the United States on November 5, 2024 by Vicctoss
Style: Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate
I posted three photos the first one shows a comparison between PETG on the left and priline on the right . Definitely a better surface finish and texture with the priline. Second photo shows What happens when you print too cool or with the cooling fan on, you don't get adequate layer adhesion and the part literally can be pulled apart even though the print looked successful and was originally visually indistinguishable from the first photo, the second photo shows the same part printed successfully next to one made from PETG I love the matte black finish of this material. But more importantly it's an extremely strong print which I could not break using reasonable force. The third photo is an extremely large ducted fan shroud 205 mm diameter. What's fascinating about this print is that there is some warpage in a very large print such as this where the outer perimeter literally pulled up off the bed nearly 1/8 of an inch, the center section however remain firmly adhered and print continued and succeeded nicely. Dimensionally this material printed accurately despite the outer perimeter pulling up. I've seen many people recommend all kinds of different temperatures and settings, but I found what works best for me on my PRUSA Mark 3S is as follows first layer 280° C all of the layers 275° C .8 mm retraction 100°C on the print bed for the first layers 90°C afterwards my parts require high finish so I print at .15 mm layer height 15% infill COOLING FAN OFF "except for first layers of bridging" this is of paramount importance !, as hitting this material with cooling air will cause it not to bond its layers correctly. I suspect a lot of people who are complaining about weak parts or bad layer adhesion have their cooling fans turned on. In conclusion I would consider this a material for beginning printers who wish to move to something more structural and durable than PLA, I suspect a lot of people who are complaining about poor layer adhesion or weak parts are not printing this material properly. They are probably either printing it too cold, or their cooling fans are turned on and the layers are being cooled prematurely causing them not to bond together. but, if care is taken and attention paid to detail the results can be quite impressive. Strength wise it's an extremely strong material when printed properly, Edit: after some experimentation, I was able to print this material is fine as 010 layer height with spectacular results. Parts have an almost anodized aluminum look to them. I also had to increase retraction to 5 mm and speed to above 100mm second to prevent the material from blobbing up especially during moves. This material tends to expand in the extruder a good deal when not actually printing.
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Reviewed in the United States on January 11, 2021 by Jaz-Aero Designs
Style: Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate
This filament does take some time to dial in. Be patient. Once you have it dialed in, you'll produce some of the nicest, epic looking, engineering grade parts. After printed and cooled, the parts can be drilled and tapped without any issues with threads warping or pulling out. I am printing on a AnyCubic Kobra Max. I had to modify my printer to print well. But everything I had to do was WELL worth the time and effort. After figuring out my settings in Cura, this filament prints like butter. Thing you need to be successful: - High Temp Nozzle: I tried hardened steel at first and it worked 'ok'. However when I upgraded to a Diamondback nozzle - that was the game changer in quality, reliability and repeatability. - Nozzle Size: Use a larger nozzle size. I started with a 0.6mm nozzle when I started, like the requirements state. If you use anything smaller it will clog. Even the 0.6mm clogged from time to time. I was also still getting inconsistencies with the print using . So I ponied up another $100 and got a 0.8mm nozzle. Prints were MUCH more consistent without losing too much quality. Also it prints faster with a larger nozzle. - Bi-Metal Heat Break: I upgraded my heat break to a hybrid copper-titanium. This helps regulate the temperatures better. Which helps with the next item.... - Bowden Tubes: If you do not have a direct drive extruder, you need to upgrade this. As this filament prints at a higher temp, this tube has a higher heat resistance than the OEM tube. This will prevent melted plastic for clogging the inside of the tube and keep the temperatures down where the bowden tube enters the heat break. I purchased a Capricorn brand bowden tube. Change all the fittings that it comes with as the tube is a slightly different size and these fittings hold onto the tube better. Also make sure to install a lock on them. Either use a zip tie, or what I did was print some locks that can be found on Thingiverse under 'Meister Werks' user name. - Build Plate: Using a PEI build plate works perfect for this material. To prevent warping, use a 5-10mm brim around the circumference of the printing part. You will have to remove and file off the lip around the bottom, but it's fairly easy with a corse file and/or a deburring tool. Settings - Layer thickness depends of the level of detail and size of the print - Small number for small items, larger number for larger items. - Initial Layer: 0.15-0.2mm - Reg Layer: 0.3 Small Prints - 0.4mm Larger Prints - Line Width: 1.2 - w/0.8mm nozzle - Infill Line: 1.2 - w/0.8mm nozzle - Normal Flow: 95-96% - Infill Flow: 91-93% - Print Cooling: *NONE* (Using print cooling will warp your print and will not adhere to the build plate) - Normal Print Speed: 35-40mm/sec - Initial Print Speed: 25-30mm/sec (Play with the speeds. Sometimes you have to slow it down for smaller items. I made 2 profiles for small and large prints) - Print Acceleration: 4000mm/sec *** Any settings I didn't mention, Don' use or just leave off. See photos with settings.
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Reviewed in the United States on April 29, 2024 by Meister Werks