Carbon Fiber Filament, PRILINE Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate 3D Printer Filament 1.75mm, High Strength Carbon Fiber 3D Printing Filament 1kg Spool, Black
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Availability:
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Friday, Mar 13
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Style: Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate
Features
- High Strength Carbon Fiber MaterialPRILINE carbon fiber polycarbonate filament is high strength chopped carbon fiber infilled polycarbonate material, which is a perfect alloy of carbon fiber and polycarbonate.
- Engineering Grade Structural Parts Could be PrintedPRILINE carbon fiber polycarbonate filament do need some patient to dial in, but with the wonderful high hardness, intensity and tenacity, the filament works great for engineering grade structural parts which need high stiffness and strength.
- Environmentally Friendly MaterialWhen printing, it doesn't emanate any smells. PRILINE unique carbon fiber material has excellent weather resistance, chemical resistance and environmental protection advantages.
- Dimensional Accuracy & Dry enoughAdvanced control system in production guarantee the filament to be strict tolerances. PRILINE spools undergo thorough drying for enough time before packaging. For Polycarbonate is extremely sensitive to humidity, filament must be store in sealed storage with desiccants or dry for 4-6 hours at 65 C before printing to maintain optimal performance.
- PRILINE Lifetime GuaranteeWe stand behind the quality and performance of our 3D printer filament. No matter what happens, PRILINE is here to support you for a seamless 3D printing experience.
Brand: PRILINE
Material: Carbon Fiber
Item Weight: 1 Kilograms
Item Diameter: 1.75 Millimeters
Unit Count: 35.274 Ounce
Manufacturer: PRILINE
Brand: PRILINE
Item Weight: 2.2 pounds
Product Dimensions: 7.9 x 7.9 x 2.9 inches
Item model number: Carbon Fiber
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer: No
Material Type: Carbon Fiber
Number of Items: 1
Manufacturer Part Number: PN-US-CFPC
Date First Available: July 30, 2017
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If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is:
Friday, Mar 13
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Top Amazon Reviews
Style: Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate
After some initial frustrations dialing in this filament, I contacted the manufacturer who provided some tips and an MSDS sheet. The manufacturer was really quite responsive and helpful, clearly interested in ensuring that I had a successful experience. I've updated my review with my observations after more experimentation with this filament. Throughout this review I'm going to be comparing this material to PETG, even though it's a PC blend. This is because my primary printing experience has been with PETG, and my goal with this filament was to achieve better precision, better durability, and better temperature resistance than my PETG experiences. Hot end. I'm using a E3D V6 Hot End with Copper Heater Block, Titanium Heat Break, and 0.4mm Nozzle X. The Nozzle X is a hardened nozzle, suitable for printing abrasive filaments. It also has a nonstick coating, and I'm happy to report that this filament easily wipes off the Nozzle X at temperature. Bed surface. I'm using the Prusa PEI sheet, the regular one, not the fancy new powder coated one. My surface prep is exactly the same as I do for my PETG prints, using windex as a release agent. In general this has worked well, though I did tear out a 1mm square chunk of PEI from the sheet by getting impatient and pulling a print off before the sheet fully cooled. Make sure to let your sheet cool before removing the print. Filament diameter. I measured the filament diameter to range from 1.69mm to 1.72mm. This tolerance is fine but make sure to adjust your Slic3r settings accordingly. No Cooling Fan. I'm attaching a picture of a SirLayersalot that I printed at 60% scale with Slic3r's default "Prusament PETG" profile (while this filament is PC, not PETG, I found the settings of this profile to produce cosmetically acceptable prints). This profile included the cooling fan enabled with an auto fan setting of 30-50% and a bridge fan of 50%. Temperature was 240/85 for the first layer and 250/90 for subsequent layers. As you can see in the picture, this yielded a cosmetically nice print. However, and this is the important part, layer adhesion tests using a layer adhesion test model on Thingiverse showed that prints with the cooling fan enabled had compromised layer adhesion. With the fan enabled, I was easily able to break the layer adhesion test by hand. Prints made without a fan yielded a layer adhesion test that I could not break by hand. The manufacturer recommends printing without cooling fan. I second this recommendation -- you've paid for this expensive filament, it's worth taking the time to get a fan-less (or "fan-minimal") profile to ensure the best layer adhesion. Warping. I do not print with an enclosure, and I found warping to be minimal on the size prints that I do. I did have one very wide (from one side of the bed to the other) print pull up on a corner on me, but I've had that same problem with PETG on very wide models. Adding a brim probably would have prevented the issue. Carbon Fibers. After printing with this filament, I usually run a clear cleaning filament through my hot end. Putting that extruded cleaning filament under a microscope, carbon fibers cleaned out of the hot end are clearly visible. They are small hair-like strands. Heat deformation test. I performed a test using this filament together with PETG as a baseline reference, heating a rectangular print up at 5 degree increments, applying some load stress, until I noticed deformation. This filament began to deform at about 100C. The PETG reference began to deform at about 90C. Developing a fan-less profile. I began with the Prusament PETG profile that I used to print the SirLayersalot, and made several changes. First, I increased retraction distance to 2mm, lift-z 1mm, and retraction speed to 50mm/s. The filament does tend to ooze a bit, and the retraction will help prevent ooze artifacts on your prints. Next, I brought the temperature down to 235C. I set the extrusion multiplier to 0.98, to prevent material accumulation on the nozzle. I disabled the "fan always on" setting, and changed the fan speed to vary from 1% to 5%, instead of 30%-50%. These fan speeds I chose not to achieve any cooling, as 5% should be negligible, but rather to enable Slic3r's "slow down if layer print time is below" setting to slow down the print speed for very small layers (more on that in a moment). I set the bridging fan speed to 30%, as I think bridging is one case where some fan is acceptable and useful to achieve decent bridges. You can get the filament to bridge without a fan, but the first layer of bridge will sag a little. It's probably something to evaluate on a print-by-print basis depending on how much bridging you have. I turned on the "detect bridging perimeters" setting. I'm also attaching a picture of a "Prusa Mk3 Nozzle Fan" print that I made with this filament. It took me about a dozen attempts to dial this part in using my fan-less profile described above. The biggest issue was the small mounting tab with the countersunk bolt hole on the top of the print. This tab is a small feature, with small fast layers, and without a fan it is possible to overheat this tab and cause it to sag and deform. The solution, recommended to me on the prusa forum, was to print something else a few inches away on the bed. This technique causes the print head to move away just long enough to keep from overheating and deforming the print. So I printed two of them at a time. After the dozen attempts, I did end up with a nozzle fan good enough to install on my printer. I'm now printing the Mk3S version. The third picture I'm attaching are some large rectangular prints. These are the aforementioned prints that went from one side of the print bed to the other. These are part of a COB LED light bracket that I'm making, where I wanted a bit of additional temperature resistance beyond what I would normally get with PETG. The prints turned out at least as good as my PETG versions, are stiffer, more opaque, more matte, and should have a higher temperature resistance. The final verdict. It took some persistence getting this filament to print well, but I feel the experience was worthwhile. The resulting print is: 1) More rigid than PETG, 2) Has a higher temperature resistance than PETG, and 3) Has a nice matte finish. Plan to invest some time dialing in your settings and try to reduce fan usage to a minimum to achieve the best layer adhesion and part strength. Avoid the fan altogether if you can.
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Reviewed in the United States on April 23, 2019 by S. M. Baker S. M. Baker
Style: Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate
Two year update: It has been about two years since I started using this. This is my favorite filament, I use it for almost everything now. Primarily I print for engineers who need tools, jigs, and production use components in factories. They're always amazed by the results. I haven't had a single complaint from a client running industrial applications in continuous production and harsh environments, or from weapon clients using it on sights and accessories, and the only part that failed on me personally was printed too cold and only had 2 walls but was under high load.. My bad, not the material. After CA glue it's still in use :P Unsupported surfaces can curl a little, make sure they're stuck to something like infill. Overhangs even out after a few layers. NO cooling fan unless you want shrinkage to ruin your day. These days I print on bare borosilicate but that only works if your first layers are +/-0.05 (literally) otherwise try hairspray. Buildtak works well with a thicker first layer. Without an enclosure in an air conditioned room its fine, I don't get corners lifting or anything, no infill shrink distorting the surface, its always fine. Curling on thin overhangs is better with an enclosure or better part design. It is a tiny bit runny even when it is the right temperature and retraction only does so much about that so just watch your travels and plan them accordingly, just clean the nozzle and print a short skirt before the part, keeping that 4mm from the print to minimize runs at the start. Printing at high speeds virtually eliminates this, as does pressure control with a direct extruder. Use a retracting spool or something because this is *springy* material. Unbelievably strong once cooled so optional finishing will require machining, grinding, and the like. Taps as well as cast sheet. Dimensionally the parts are much better than any other material I've used. Some say they don't like the finish because of the fibers? I think its beautiful, my favorite looking filament. Also they say harsh fumes and odor...? I don't get it. There is almost no detectable odor, VOC levels are very low, just use a carbon filter if you're concerned. DO wear a respirator while finishing pieces of course. Flame polishing *lightly* removes crazing marks, more than that will give it a shine that doesn't match the part. CA glue mars the finish a little, like any PC, and welds it extremely well. DON'T laser this unless you really are qualified and equipped since PC degrades into scary things, but it does laser engrave and cut as nicely as any other PC. I don't bother drying it, but I operate in the desert where the relative humidity is often around 25% indoors. I don't see any difference at all compared to packing it in dry silica gel even during humid conditions. Maybe if you live in a rain forest it matters? Not for me. 0.2mm nozzles clog due to the fiber length, but 0.4 has never clogged on me. I'm just using hardened steel, no ruby or anything, and my nozzle diameter is the same as it was over a year ago when I started using this one but it will eat brass quickly/instantly. Really, I ruined a brass nozzle in one print, it's a 0.55mm now :p This stuff will challenge you to tune your printer if you haven't mastered that yet but don't get discouraged, it's worth it and it will make you a better operator. The cost might seem high but consider that you need fewer walls, less infill, less supports, it is reliable meaning fewer reprints, less finishing because of the dimensional accuracy, and you get better properties for many use cases. For me it saves money even at this price so I don't hesitate to buy it anymore. I wasted a lot less material developing profiles than I did with PETG at first :) It wasn't *that* painful. When I had a gantry issue causing layer height issues, it wouldn't print for me though. Tuning is everything. With retraction dialed in I have perfect, sharp corners and haven't seen a string in a long time.
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Reviewed in the United States on August 7, 2020 by James D.