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Carbon Fiber Filament, PRILINE Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate 3D Printer Filament 1.75mm, High Strength Carbon Fiber 3D Printing Filament 1kg Spool, Black

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Availability: In Stock.
Fulfilled by Amazon

Arrives Wednesday, Sep 3
Order within 22 hours and 39 minutes
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Style: Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate


Features

  • High Strength Carbon Fiber MaterialPRILINE carbon fiber polycarbonate filament is high strength chopped carbon fiber infilled polycarbonate material, which is a perfect alloy of carbon fiber and polycarbonate.
  • Engineering Grade Structural Parts Could be PrintedPRILINE carbon fiber polycarbonate filament do need some patient to dial in, but with the wonderful high hardness, intensity and tenacity, the filament works great for engineering grade structural parts which need high stiffness and strength.
  • Environmentally Friendly MaterialWhen printing, it doesn't emanate any smells. PRILINE unique carbon fiber material has excellent weather resistance, chemical resistance and environmental protection advantages.
  • Dimensional Accuracy & Dry enoughAdvanced control system in production guarantee the filament to be strict tolerances. PRILINE spools undergo thorough drying for enough time before packaging. For Polycarbonate is extremely sensitive to humidity, filament must be store in sealed storage with desiccants or dry for 4-6 hours at 65 C before printing to maintain optimal performance.
  • PRILINE Lifetime GuaranteeWe stand behind the quality and performance of our 3D printer filament. No matter what happens, PRILINE is here to support you for a seamless 3D printing experience.

Brand: PRILINE


Material: Carbon Fiber


Item Weight: 1 Kilograms


Item Diameter: 1.75 Millimeters


Unit Count: 35.274 Ounce


Manufacturer: ‎PRILINE


Brand: ‎PRILINE


Item Weight: ‎2.2 pounds


Product Dimensions: ‎7.9 x 7.9 x 2.9 inches


Item model number: ‎Carbon Fiber


Is Discontinued By Manufacturer: ‎No


Material Type: ‎Carbon Fiber


Number of Items: ‎1


Manufacturer Part Number: ‎PN-US-CFPC


Date First Available: July 30, 2017


Frequently asked questions

If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is: Wednesday, Sep 3

Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.

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Top Amazon Reviews


  • VERY high quality PC-CF Filament - What you need to be successful...
Style: Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate
This filament does take some time to dial in. Be patient. Once you have it dialed in, you'll produce some of the nicest, epic looking, engineering grade parts. After printed and cooled, the parts can be drilled and tapped without any issues with threads warping or pulling out. I am printing on a AnyCubic Kobra Max. I had to modify my printer to print well. But everything I had to do was WELL worth the time and effort. After figuring out my settings in Cura, this filament prints like butter. Thing you need to be successful: - High Temp Nozzle: I tried hardened steel at first and it worked 'ok'. However when I upgraded to a Diamondback nozzle - that was the game changer in quality, reliability and repeatability. - Nozzle Size: Use a larger nozzle size. I started with a 0.6mm nozzle when I started, like the requirements state. If you use anything smaller it will clog. Even the 0.6mm clogged from time to time. I was also still getting inconsistencies with the print using . So I ponied up another $100 and got a 0.8mm nozzle. Prints were MUCH more consistent without losing too much quality. Also it prints faster with a larger nozzle. - Bi-Metal Heat Break: I upgraded my heat break to a hybrid copper-titanium. This helps regulate the temperatures better. Which helps with the next item.... - Bowden Tubes: If you do not have a direct drive extruder, you need to upgrade this. As this filament prints at a higher temp, this tube has a higher heat resistance than the OEM tube. This will prevent melted plastic for clogging the inside of the tube and keep the temperatures down where the bowden tube enters the heat break. I purchased a Capricorn brand bowden tube. Change all the fittings that it comes with as the tube is a slightly different size and these fittings hold onto the tube better. Also make sure to install a lock on them. Either use a zip tie, or what I did was print some locks that can be found on Thingiverse under 'Meister Werks' user name. - Build Plate: Using a PEI build plate works perfect for this material. To prevent warping, use a 5-10mm brim around the circumference of the printing part. You will have to remove and file off the lip around the bottom, but it's fairly easy with a corse file and/or a deburring tool. Settings - Layer thickness depends of the level of detail and size of the print - Small number for small items, larger number for larger items. - Initial Layer: 0.15-0.2mm - Reg Layer: 0.3 Small Prints - 0.4mm Larger Prints - Line Width: 1.2 - w/0.8mm nozzle - Infill Line: 1.2 - w/0.8mm nozzle - Normal Flow: 95-96% - Infill Flow: 91-93% - Print Cooling: *NONE* (Using print cooling will warp your print and will not adhere to the build plate) - Normal Print Speed: 35-40mm/sec - Initial Print Speed: 25-30mm/sec (Play with the speeds. Sometimes you have to slow it down for smaller items. I made 2 profiles for small and large prints) - Print Acceleration: 4000mm/sec *** Any settings I didn't mention, Don' use or just leave off. See photos with settings. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on April 29, 2024 by Meister Werks Meister Werks

  • My favorite filaments
Style: Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate
This review is for both the Priline Carbon Fiber PetG and the Priline Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate filaments. These are my two favorite filaments, each having different advantages. I've printed more than three rolls of the Polycarbonate, and most of 1 roll of the newer PetG. Both are easy to print and the parts look amazing. I make functional parts used in mechanical assemblies. A year ago I abandoned PLA because PLA parts have a "Cheap" look and deform at relatively low temperatures (such as in a hot car). All my printing is done on Prusa i3 MK3Ss. The only modification I've made is to replace the nozzle with a 0.4mm E3D V6 Hardened Steel Nozzle (a hardened nozzle is required for printing any carbon fiber filament). I print on Prusa's textured bed which gives the bottom layer an appealing finish. PLA has a "Glass Transition Temperature" as low as 60°C/140°F, too low for functional parts. PetG is around 80°C/176°F and Polycarbonate is even higher, making either of these Priline CF filaments suitable for my needs. The biggest benefit of carbon fiber filaments is cosmetic. One would think that CF filaments improve rigidity, but my experience shows that the gains are small if any. In truth almost all CF-PetG and CF-PC filaments, including the Priline, make parts that are not as stiff as PLA, but instead are "Tougher" (by being based on PetG and Polycarbonate). Another benefit to these carbon fiber filaments is that there is little or no stringing. Again, a big problem I have with PLA prints is they look cheap. These carbon fiber filaments make parts that appear much more professional. Of the two filaments, I feel the prints from the CF Polycarbonate look the best, especially the perimeter faces which show no layer lines, instead having a beautiful matte black textured finish. The Priline Carbon Fiber PetG prints are also good looking, but a bit shinier than the Poly (still a much more appealing flat black than you get from normal PetG or PLA). Where the CF-PetG wins big is with minimal wrapping/shrinking, it's very dimensionally accurate. For example I designed a timing pulley, 6" in diameter, 0.4" thick, having 8 top and bottom layers. With the CF-Polycarbonate I could not get it to print completely flat, whereas the CF-PetG printed perfectly. Also with the CF-PetG bridging is much better than the Poly (because the Poly is printed with the fan off). I've discovered a few tips when printing CF on Prusa's textured bed. The textured bed produces a really nice finish on the part's bottom. To get the best finish with CF filaments, I slow printing of the first layer down to 16mm/sec. I find parts look best with more of a matte black than a shiny black color. The textured bottom can appear sparkly rather than matte, especially with the CF-PetG. To get a more matte finish I add a layer of glue stick on the textured bed before printing (I use Prusa's gluestick, others recommend for 3D printing will likely work as well). A cosmetic issue I occasionally have with the Priline CF Polycarbonate is that the bottom layer can show milky whitish streaks (printed on either a smooth or textured bed) detracting from it's otherwise beautiful finish. This is another problem that I've solved by printing on gluestick. For the Priline Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate, I started with PrusaSlicer's profile for "Polymaker PC-Max". Then changed: + Cost: $49 + Diameter: 1.75 + Extruder first layer temperature: 255 + Extruder other layers temperature: 255 + Bed first layer temperature: 100 + Bed other layers temperature: 100 + Max volumetric speed: 6 + Keep fan always on: No + Enable auto cooling: No + First layer speed: 16 For the Priline Carbon Fiber PetG profile, I started with PrusaSlicer's profile for "Prusament PETG". Then changed: + Cost: $49 + Diameter: 1.75 + Extruder first layer temperature: 260 + Extruder other layers temperature: 250 + Bed first layer temperature: 90 + Bed other layers temperature: 80 + Max volumetric speed: 6 + Keep fan always on: Yes + Enable auto cooling: Yes + First layer speed: 16 ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on May 28, 2020 by StanleyR

  • Neato, but not really Polycarbonate is it?
Style: Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate
This is more rigid than PETG, but weaker than PC should be. The temperature that this melts is a dead giveaway that it is some type o0f blend rather than true PC. But hopefully you know that before you buy it. I knew it and bought it anyway. I don't really regret it, but after a fair amount of experimentation, I don't think I'd trust it with any truly high strength application. It's too brittle and the layer adhesion, even with 0% fans, is not good enough. On a positive note, it looks spectacular. It has a really lovely dull shine, and the carbon fiber particles give it a unique texture that totally hides the layer lines. So pretty! For printing this, I am using Cura. I have it set to 0% fan speed, except on bridging. I am using 10% fan speed on bridging. In printing tests, without that bridging fan speed, you get complete failure on any even small bridging. So you will either need to support all bridging or have a small fan speed to harden the filament. I tried printing an entire item with a solid 10% fan speed, and do not recommend it. It reduces layer adhesion, making the object even more brittle. Even at 0% fan speed, this is pretty brittle stuff. What I have found this is really great for is printing cooler fan mounts for my printer. It is rigid and heat resistant enough to not deform from the heat of the proximity to the nozzle or bed, and this is not a high strength application. I would probably go with straight PETG before this in applications that require a lot of weight bearing or stress. PETG will bend, yes, but this will simply break. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on August 2, 2021 by FullmoonCat

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