Polymaker PA6-CF Nylon Filament 1.75mm 2kg Black Carbon Fiber Nylon 3D Printing Filament - PolyMide PA6-CF Warp Free 3D Printer Filament
Condition: New
Checking for product changes
Buy Now, Pay Later
As low as
$25.00
/ mo
Learn more
- – 6-month term
- – No impact on credit
- – Instant approval decision
- – Secure and straightforward checkout
Ready to go? Add this product to your cart and select a plan during checkout.
Payment plans are offered through our trusted finance partners Klarna, PayTomorrow, Affirm, Afterpay, Apple Pay, and PayPal. No-credit-needed leasing options through Acima may also be available at checkout.
Learn more about financing & leasing here.
Selected Option
Free shipping on this product
30-day returns
Learn more
30-day refund/replacement
To qualify for a full refund, items must be returned in their original, unused condition. If an item is returned in a used, damaged, or materially different state, you may be granted a partial refund.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
Availability:
In Stock.
Arrives
Tuesday, Jun 10
Recently Viewed
Color: 211 - Polymide Pa6-cf 1.75mm Black (Hex Code: #312f2f)
Size: 2kg Old Packaging
Features
- Stiff, Strong & Heat Resistant: Polymaker PolyMide PA6-CF nylon filament is composed of 80% PA and 20% chopped carbon fibers. This carbon fiber reinforcement significantly enhances stiffness, strength, and heat resistance, providing outstanding layer adhesion with a Heat Deflection Temperature of 215C (ISO 75, 0.45 MPa).
- Wide Application: PolyMide PA6-CF is strong, durable, and has excellent heat resistance. It is ideal for applications requiring torsional, tensile, and impact strength, such as bicycle pedals, brackets, jigs, ESD-safe fixtures, drone frames, prosthetics, and handles.
- Tangle-Free & Resealable Bag: Our PA6-CF nylon filament is carefully wound to prevent tangling, dried, and vacuum sealed in a resealable ziplock bag with desiccant. Always hold the filament tip to avoid nodes, and use the holes on the spool to help prevent this issue.
- Printing Settings: Nozzle: 280-300C; Bed Temperature: 25-50C (Do NOT exceed 50C); Speed: 30-60 mm/s; Annealing: 80C for 6 hours (Recommended to improve heat resistance of printed parts). Bed Surface: Compatible with almost any surface using a thin coat of PVA glue or Magigoo PA.
- Note: An abrasion-resistant nozzle is essential due to the carbon fiber in this nylon filament. PolyMide PA6-CF is very stiff, so a proper setup is necessary to ensure smooth feeding and avoid excessive bending in the filament guide system. It's crucial to keep the filament enclosed in a desiccant box while printing and to clean the nozzles after every 8 prints or so.
Brand: POLYMAKER
Material: Nylon
Color: 211 - Polymide Pa6-cf 1.75mm Black (Hex Code #312f2f)
Item Weight: 2 Kilograms
Item Diameter: 1.75 Millimeters
Manufacturer: Polymaker
Brand: POLYMAKER
Item Weight: 4.4 pounds
Product Dimensions: 10.55 x 10.55 x 3.35 inches
Item model number: PG03003
Color: 211 - Polymide Pa6-cf 1.75mm Black (Hex Code #312f2f)
Material Type: Nylon
Number of Items: 1
Size: 2kg Old Packaging
Manufacturer Part Number: PG03003
Date First Available: June 15, 2022
Frequently asked questions
If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is:
Tuesday, Jun 10
Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
- Klarna Financing
- Affirm Pay in 4
- Affirm Financing
- Afterpay Financing
- PayTomorrow Financing
- Financing through Apple Pay
Learn more about financing & leasing here.
Similar Products
Top Amazon Reviews
Color: 314 - Fiberon Pa6-gf25 1.75mm Grey (Hex ...
Size: 3kg New Packaging
This review is for the PA6-GF My settings: Neptune 4 plus with enclosure, Microswiss hotend and upgraded fan shroud. Nozzle 290, bed 50 (yes, only 50). And you definitely need a hardened nozzle AND hardened gears. I was blown away by how easy this is to use. I have more consistent success with this filament than even PLA. The parts are incredibly strong, I was able to thin the walls of some of my prop designs from 12mm in PLA Plus to 4mm with this. It also had a slight flex to it which helps with impact resistance (so it won't just shatter). They also look great! Layer lines are hardly noticeable even at 0.2mm layer heights. It comes out with a rough texture that can be sanded. And so far I have had no adhesion issues. Supports usually snap off, although sometimes I need to use a razor blade on the tiny supports where they meet the print. Still, no worse than PLA. That said, there are some things to keep in mind: You have to print from and actively heated filament dryer. I splurged and got the EIBOS Polyphemus dryer, which was $150ish. I wanted it anyway but a good dryer that can consistenly keep the temperature at 70 is a must (70C is what I use for all prints with this filament). I also print with an enclosure. I'm not sure if you need it for the filament itself, but it gives off toxic particles. I have an activated carbon filter running at all times in the enclosure, you should too. Lastly, this is fiberglass. Working with fiberglass is dangerous, ESPCIALLY inhaling any particles. I recommend handling the prints with gloves (they have a rough texture and there's a risk of tiny glass splinters). And ALWAYS use a respirator when sanding these parts. At $120 for 3kg it's not a bad deal. I've stocked up on some rolls in case of coming tariffs, but I'll definitely be using this for a long time.
...
show more
Reviewed in the United States on May 9, 2025 by Gavin
Color: 111 - Fiberon Pa612-cf15 1.75mm Black (H...
Size: 0.5kg New Packaging
To the Polymaker Team: I'm struggling to get started printing and CNC machining, due to a lack of startup funds still. Can we work something out to get some more filament, until I make more money to buy it from y'all? No is an answer that I'll take. But I wanted to try. First thing is first! This stuff can print super intricate stuff. Also, it doesn't try to permanently stick to texture PEI plates like other nylons. Also, I printed at 10³mm/s with no issues. It was .24mm layer height with a .4mm nozzle, .4mm width at around 100-110mm/s speeds. IMPRESSIVE! I will only buy Fiberon nylon from here on out. I doubt another company can top this stuff. I have BBL PA6-CF, but it's a bit more expensive and the shipping sucks. I made a fork latch for my gate, since I hated the OG swivel latch thing. The BBL PA6, became too flexible after 3 days. (As plastic absorbs water, it becomes more flexible, but more impact resistant, but I need stuffness) It did rain a ton tho. But I kept having to tighten the bolts on the bracket as it softened. This Polymaker Fiberon PA612_CF15!?! Well, it absorbs less moisture and it still super rigid.
...
show more
Reviewed in the United States on April 18, 2025 by M & H Stines. M & H Stines.
Color: 126 - 1.75mm Clear (Hex Code: #Dbd5d6)
Size: 1kg
I do not write reviews often but in the case of this filament, absolutely. I have always used Hatchbox for my PETG needs, but no longer. The filament was shipped in the normal brown Poly box but vacuum sealed in a non-reusable bag. That is ok with me because I knew when I opened the package, the hiss let me know it was sealed correctly. As always, dry out your filament, especially PETG. I let this run at 54c for 8 hours before using. This is not my first translucent filament but it has been the EASIEST to print with. Stringing is basically non-existent, adhesion is not a factor and the quality of the prints are immaculate. I have tried countless filaments over the years from all manufacturers. Poly is my go to PLA using PLA Pro or Polylite because I have never had one issue with their filaments, so why not try their PETG. Yes this comes in a cardboard roll which I am fine with. Right now I am printing this with heavy infill because I need the strength but the transparency is VERY good even with 40% infill. Printing with a larger nozzle, less infill, thicker walls, and post-processing will give you a clearer finish. Print this slower than PLA. You can also go down to .1 and REALLY slow printing for a very clear finish, but will lose strength and time printing. PETG can be a little tricky if you do not have the correct temps / retractions. Surprisingly, I print this at a lower temp than other PETG filaments. I am running a Titan Direct Drive so my retraction settings will differ from a Bowden setup. I have printed this with Marlin without issue and currently running Klipper with BETTER results. Setup: Creality CR10-v3 STOCK Bed: G10 When printing on Glass I raise 5c Cura Settings for a stronger PETG print (Currently using settings for fan ducts for Hero Me G7) .4 brass nozzle .2 layer height .4 line width 1.2 wall thickness 2 Top Surface Skin Layers Monotonic Top/Bottom Unchecked Skin in Z Gaps Unchecked Ironing Unchecked 40% infill Connect Infill Lines Unchecked Temp 235 Build Plate 80 Initial Layer Bottom Flow 108% Print Speed 40mm/s My Titan Extruder Retraction settings Enable Retraction Retract at Layer change Checked Retraction Distance .8 Retraction Speed 45mm/s Retract before outer wall Checked Limit Support Retractions Unchecked Enable Print cooling UNCHECKED <---------- With Klipper, turn off all Acceleration Control, Jerk Control, Z Hop when retracted. Take your time with the Klipper setup and go through each step in order, not skipping. If you walked through all Klipper settings, everything will print GREAT. If not, blame the user and not the tools. I skipped a couple the first time through and was so confused as to why everyone loved Klipper because my results were terrible. Impatience got me. I went through the setup again (took my time, couple days), and I am sold. I will not go back to Marlin. For a good print, everyone should make sure a couple of things are in order regardless of slicer, firmware or printer... 1. Your bed is level 2. No seriously, take the time and level your damn bed 3. Do not write bad reviews because filaments do not stick to your unlevel bed 4. ESTEPS. Tune them, per roll, not per filament. It can change from roll to roll. Also, tune your ESTEPS at the temperature you are going to print at (start a spreadsheet and keep track of settings to cut down on the time it takes when changing rolls). 5. Correct temperatures. This can also change PER ROLL and depending on how dry it is. If you hear a slight pop sound, too much moisture. 6. Bed adhesion. I have used Carborundum glass beds, thick mirrors, HomeDepot 12in mirrors and now G10. There is ONE common factor to all of them, do not touch the bed. EVER. Wash the bed with dish soap and water, then dry with a clean, lint free cloth. Glass beds would require me to clean them every few prints. G10, pfft. I just wipe it down with the blue shop roll paper towels and done. Now if I TOUCH the bed, I clean it with dish soap and water. You can also use 99.99% alcohol to wipe the beds down as well. Spend $20 and get a G10 sheet. You will not be sorry. Happy Printing!
...
show more
Reviewed in the United States on May 29, 2023 by Kevin