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Monoprice

Monoprice Select Mini 3D Printer v2 - White With Heated (120 x 120 x 120 mm) Build Plate, Fully Assembled + Free Sample PLA Filament, MicroSD Card

    • Based on 3,148 reviews
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Availability: Only 5 left in stock, order soon!
Fulfilled by SynchroTech
Arrives May 16 – May 17
Order within 20 hours and 25 minutes
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Color: White


Features

  • Support for All Filament Types: The heated build plate and wide range of extruder temperatures allow this printer to work with any type of filament, from basic filaments, such as ABS and PLA, to more advanced materials, such as conductive PLA, wood and metal composites, or dissolvable PVA.
  • Compact Desktop Design: Featuring a small footprint and basic, open frame design, this 3D printer is compact enough for any desk.
  • Ready to Print: Unlike most other low-cost 3D printers, this printer ships fully assembled and has already been calibrated at the factory. We even include sample PLA filament and a MicroSD card with preinstalled models, so you can start printing right out of the box!
  • Sample Filament diameter- 1.75mm, Filament size spool/sample- about 10ft. One sample print, Filament Color- natural/clear
  • Heated aluminum build plate nozzle cooling fan for printing all filament types. Complete kit with sample PLA filament, bed scraper, and MicroSD card with preloaded model files. Micro USB and MicroSD card connectivity. PC and Mac compatible. Compatible with Cura, Repetier, and other software
  • Supported Filament Types - ABS, PLA, Wood, Copper Fill, Steel Fill, Bronze Fill KINDLY REFER USER MANUAL BEFORE USE; Max Extruder Temperature: 482F (250C)

Description

Monoprice 15365 Select Mini 3D Printer with Heated Build Plate, Includes Micro SD Card and Sample PLA Filament. Max Power Consumption - 120 watts


Brand: Monoprice


Material: Pla,Metal


Color: White


Item Weight: 9.9 Pounds


Compatible Devices: Personal Computer


Is Discontinued By Manufacturer ‏ : ‎ No


Product Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 11.3 x 7.5 x 13.5 inches; 9.9 Pounds


Item model number ‏ : ‎ 15365


Date First Available ‏ : ‎ May 13, 2016


Manufacturer ‏ : ‎ Monoprice


Best Sellers Rank: #111,666 in Industrial & Scientific (See Top 100 in Industrial & Scientific) #193 in 3D Printers


#193 in 3D Printers:


Customer Reviews: 3.9 3.9 out of 5 stars 3,148 ratings


Frequently asked questions

If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is: May 16 – May 17

Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.

To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.

View our full returns policy here.

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Top Amazon Reviews

    • Needs big red "check engine light"
Color: White
The media could not be loaded. Let me explain: When computers first came out in cars, those of us hard-core mechanics hated the fact that we lost a bunch of gauges and were given a "check engine light". To make matters worse, we had to go by some fancy dancy piece of hardware to read the error code. Ok, the dinosaurs were then wiped out by a giant asteroid, we had an actor or two (who really knows?) as president, and the computers in cars have more or less taken over everything but ordering your special brew of coffee at Starbucks. Let me just say, this printer is great -- it's my first one, so I can't really compare the output to any of the top-notch brands, but 98% of them come out better than I originally expected. Price is right, and you have really got to take a hard look at buying 4 or 5 of these compared to a biggees.. Well, ok it only prints a 4" cube, but most of my stuff right now is that size. So what does that have to do with a "check engine light" you ask... Ok -- can you imagine your car not doing self diagnostics and telling you that your anti-skid break's are working or that the automatic transmission isn't connected? Sure, I don't know 100% if it's actually doing those things but there is some warm fuzzies knowing that it probably should be doing so. There are some diagnostics going every time you start up the card. All I can say is that I haven't had any major accidents, or been tee-boned by others in my life. So what does this have to do with this printer? There is no self-check or diagnostics in this printer as far as I can tell. Yes, there is a "Home Axis" button -- but actually that is the tip of problem -- it should do more. You get in your car, push the break peddle, and expect the car to stop. Everyone around you expects your car to stop. Sleazy lawyers make a good living when your car doesn't stop.. You expect it -- the manufactures design diagnosis into the car to continually check for it. It's even the law. Why can't you expect this printer to work like you expect the printer to work? It's so damm close to doing that ! So here's my issue -- after printing a few great prints -- the first I've every done myself, the motors drove it's extruder head (the thing that the hot filament comes out of) into the bed, tore holes in the print surface off it, and might have bent up the print nozzle. Let me make this very very clear -- the MOST important calibration on these printers is the distance from the print nozzle to the print bed -- we are talking about one 10'th of a mm or more accuracy or more here - the thickness of a piece of paper. This printer completely and totally lost the ability to do that calibration and put itself out to pasture.. (OK customer support was great, and it's on it's way right now to be repaired free of cost) So what did I do next? -- well of course I did the smart thing and bought another one... I Got 30 or 40 really cool prints (I'm now to the point where I can create my own designs, crude yes so far -- using freeCad and cura -- but I can really get an idea of what these things can do) Then of course, the exact same thing happened -- lost Z calibration, nozzle into the bed, ripped up the covering -- but I caught it before it did too much damage. So -- here's what is actually happening -- its so stupid, and cheap to fix, and should have been caught at manufacturing time. Someone was trying to save a penny or two, or maybe software guys were designing hardware. I've spent hours talking to Customer support and getting my printer shipped back because of it. This printer is using a very tiny mechanical limit switch with a very thin spring steel bumper arm on it to detect that infamous "Z" axis height position. In fact -- this printer has absolutely NO idea of where the print head is other than its relative position (number of steps) from the home position. AND (yes, it gets worse) -- it has NO way to know if it missed a step, (something got in the way) and is totally out of alignment. (more than one step out of alignment on any of the three axis is going to cause a bad print) What happened was for some reason, is that the printer lost it's Z position and then slammed the print head down so far that it bent that tiny little spring steel arm on the most important part of this printer -- the "Home Z position" limit switch. It then tried to use this wrong position as it's Home, thinking that the position was ok, not having any way to verify that it wasn't, and proceeded to tear up the bed the next time it ran. This is a 2 cent part, that I finally figure out that I could bend - because who in there right mind would ever make this super critical part, that the entire adjustment of the printer is based on, able to be bent? Why would I even expect that? But I got past expecting that engineers don't make mistakes, and ending this tiny piece of spring steel back to a more workable position. Note that bending spring steel is not a high accurate operation, so I needed to re-calibrate the bed height compared to the printer nozzle Z home position. Trust me, after you've calibrate the bed height a few times, and you won't think it's a big deal -- it takes a couple of minutes. Helpful Hint: Use 2 pieces of paper, a big flat one on the bottom, and a 1" or so piece you slide under the nozzle. Big piece shouldn't move when you move the printer head. upper piece should be difficult to slide under printer head, and then head should then be hard to move. Congratulations, you've now calibrated the print head vs bed height to 0.10 mm! Back to my story -- lets just say my next print was gorgeous :-). I called product support -- the folks there completely missed this. When I finally prompted them with the right question - the guy on the chat line admitted "this could happen", referring to the bent limit switch arm. Had I not seen this happen twice I would probably not figured it out either. So here's my beef with this printer: 99.8 percent of it is working great, really especially for the price. But the MOST IMPORTANT PART on it, at least for getting accurate repeatable prints, is a 2 cent piece of cheap bendable steel, that anyone in their right mind would never expect to be there! There is no "check engine light" concept on this printer -- there's no self diagnostics -- in fact, there's probably nothing in the printer that could even drive this type of diagnostics. Easy to fix if it happens, just be sure to bend the bumper arm in the middle, you can reach it from the slot that the arm holding the spool of filament rests on. Be sure to re-level the bed after the you re-bend the arm. But IT SHOULD NOT HAVE BEEN BENT! I measure it -- it bent at least 2mm !. Keep in mind that layer height of the print is 0.2mm or so! But can this happen in normal operation? -- If you continually need to re-calibrate the bed -- it sure is ! It's not the bed or the print head that's getting screwed up -- it's this nice little happy bottom Z axis limit switch arm! VERY STRONG Recommendations: (about $2.00 in parts) This bottom-Z-axis limit switch should be optical limit switch for better accuracy and repeatably - There is at least 2mm hysteresis between on and off due to the arm bending (watch the attached video) -- and read all the reviews saying that you have to should "Home" it multiple times to get any accuracy out of it-- This cheap bendable arm is the WHY! It would be "best" if all 3 "Home" position limits switches were optical - but the Z-axis position is super super super (times a billion) critical. My other thought is that the hardware needs to be able to figure out if the printer is actually moving when it's asked to step. As I said, the print head was driven into the bed (two different printers) and they were both making an awful racket when the the bed wasn't moving, or was scraping the metal off the print head. Hell, even a microphone here to know it's making too much noise would be helpful. The motors stalled, and yet the software didn't know about it. If the motors simply were able to send out a signal when they rotated once (48 steps) -- and stop the thing if you ran it a couple of revolutions and didnt' see a rotation step. The filament heater didn't come on a couple of times when I started a print. The motor that pushes the filament into the head joyfully kept spinning against the non-moving filament the entire print job.. It was a wonderful totally invisible print with the exact same density and optical optical characteristics as air -- which would have been nice, but I was using white filament at the time.. In other words, nothing was printed, and the printer had no clue that was happening. Come on! Understand that this is a inexpensive printer, and the manufacture is going to cut corners. -- but what I'm asking for is just some basic critical simple idiot proof diagnostics, and alerting mechanism to indicate something isn't right in Denmark. In other words, this printer (and ALL printers like it) needs a "check engine light", and some basic sanity level sensors to drive it. Honestly, if I knew the printer could tell me when it was broken, I'd give it 6 stars, and recommend it to all my friends.. This problem is just plain stupid.. ----------------- I attached a video of the Lower Z axis limit switch getting triggered on a "Home" cycle. This is after I bent it up. It was completely flat before I did so. I probably changed the Z limit position about 3mm -- further than I really needed -- but it's now printing fine so I'm not complaining. Look at the arm bend! See and hear that hysteresis! This is the switch that NEEDS to be a optical.. But till then, what's above explains how to fix it -- Bend the arm in the MIDDLE, don't just pull it up and bend it at the point where it's joined to the actual switch. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on March 15, 2018 by PDB
    • I kinda like this printer, but I can't recommend it for most people.
Color: White
I had the following problems with the printer. Where I discovered a solution, I will list it. I will also try to list what other things I had to buy. 1. Printer says it comes with sample filament. New printers do not come with sample filament. Mine was an early printer that came with sample filament. There were only a few yards of filament. It would not have been enough to do more than verify the bed height. You will probably want to buy at least one 1 kilogram spool of 1.75mm PLA filament, in a color you want to see a lot. 2. When I put the printer in move mode to reset, say, the Z axis (height). I could not get the printer out of that mode. Pushing on the wheel didn't seem to do anything and there was nothing I could find in the manual. While turning the printer off and on was not so bad, I finally determined that I could hold the wheel down and simultaneously turn it so move to a different menu item, so I was able to stop power cycling. (Newer software borders a selected box in red - and you can update your printer, Visit mpselectmini (dot) com for updates an procedures.) 3. After 5 minutes of use, the display developed diagonal red stripes. I have contacted Monoprice, they want to RMA the printer. I want to return it to Amazon. (Someone told me this was a second layer of screen protector. Sure enough, it peels off. Astoundinf that they knew nothing about the printer and they were supposed to support it.) 4. One of the bed adjusting screws was defective. The Allen wrench slipped around inside the head. I went to the local hardware store (Ace) and found similar metric screws but since the unit does not contain an exploded diagram or parts list or maintenance procedures, I don't know the length needed. (Fixed by the return.) 5. One of the hex screws near the feed mechanism on top of the printer was corroded. It has large flakes of red rust on it, while the others were fine. This will be resolved by the return. 6. The printer comes prepared for printing with masking tape as a printing surface. This is common. However, the manual tells you not to damage the tape that covers the printing surface and does not tell you what to do if you do. In fact, tape lasts at absolute most six prints and that is an exception. Most tape surfaces last 1 to 3 prints. You need to order a six inch wide roll of blue painters tape with the printer (this width is sold as a 3d printing surface on Amazon). I asked their support address what to replace their surface with and they took a week to answer that simple question. I looked online and got the answer but it should have been in the manual. You can use narrower tape from a local store in a pinch but you have to exactly butt the edges together. Different tapes have different thicknesses. Re-check your bed height when you change tape brands. 7. The printer instructions say to use a piece of A4 paper to set the extruder to bed gap. I found this impossible, personally and found a uxcell brand metric feeler gauge, with feelers in 0.02mm - 1mm blades with a concentration of sizes under 0.2mm. Your desired target is 0.05mm. I typically use the 0.05mm and 0.09mm, if the 05 goes in but the 09 doesn't, I call it good. (With practice I find paper to be easy to use and convenient.) 8. I found that I absolutely needed a digital caliper. You need to measure actual dimensions of printed items as well as things like filament size (nominal 1.75mm filament will vary based on humidity and actual filament size is important). You can get a decent one on Amazon for less than $20. Someone chided me for not having one. I actually had one but I wanted one to keep by the printer tools. And I bought a micrometer. 9. I have bought four different brands of extruder nozzles and can't find one that is an exact match. I determined that many or most of the nozzles sold on Amazon had a threaded part that seemed too long. I was able to use these: Kamo 5PCS 3D Printer 0.4mm Extruder Brass Nozzle Print Head for MK8 1.75mm ABS PLA Printer, but it took some extra adjustment. You need a 1.5mm Allen wrench and some small metric sockets, as well as something to hold the hot block. First, remove the spring clips that hold the fan on. Next, preheat the extruder to 220 or so. Remove the stock nozzle with a 7mm socket, stabilizing the hot block with a wrench or pliers. Avoid damaging the yellow tape. Let the hot block cool. Remove and clean the tube that is above the nozzle, the plastic one that is inside the metal tube. I scraped it with my thumbnail to clean it. Now, note that while the threaded part matches in size and length, the part below the threads does not match. You will need to raise the metal tube a corresponding amount. I had to do this, because with the bed tightened all the way there was zero clearance between the nozzle tip and the bed. Using a 1.5mm Allen wrench (the one you use to adjust the bed is a 2mm) loosen the lower setscrew that was exposed by removing the fan. Raise the tube a small amount, specifically, the difference in height between the lower part of the stock nozzle and the new nozzle, approximately. Tighten the 1.5mm setscrew. Now finger tighten the new nozzle. Preheat the extruder to 220. Tighten the new nozzle with a 6mm wrench. It should turn easily. Stabilize the block when you tighten the nozzle. Turn off the heat and let the head cool. Reinstall the spring clips. Now lower the bed all the way, by tightening all four bed adjustment screws. Home the printer. You should have a couple of millimeters between the nozzle tip and the bed with glass or tape or whatever you have covering it. Raise the corner until the 0.05mm feeler barely slips in, or until the paper drags. Do each corner, then go around again. Twice is probably enough. So, your shopping list: PLA filament, 1.5mm Allen wrench, replacement nozzles, blue tape in 6½” width. Feeler gauges, metric/inch digital calipers. If you tear the white tape, you can reset the PID parameters for the heater. Procedure is at http(colon slash slash)mpselectmini(dot)com(slash)pid_autotune Ok, I have gotten a replacement printer from Amazon. The firmware has changed significantly. As an example, the border of the move menu items turn red when the item is selected, and a single tap gets you back to select, turning red off If you update your software to a recent level, you can use the wifi that is built into all of these printers. I had what I thought was a printer failure. .It was probably a failure of the Micro SD chip I was using. But there was a bug, when it tried to read GCODE and it failed, it would start reading at the beginning of the file which had the read failure, This was almost always the wrong thing to do. The failure was that there was already something being (partially) printed and when the print started again the nozzle would hit it. So there was a fix and when I installed it support came for the Wi-fi connection - you have a web interface that does some of what the front panel does. This means that anyone in your house can cancel your print, or preheat your device. You can use the Repetier-Host program over wi-fi as well, with the web interface running, This printer also came with sample filament, and also has the diagonal red stripes on the display. (which I finally peeled off). One more bit of advice about this printer. Bed temperature on this printer corresponds with measured temperature on the print bed (using an infra-red thermometer that I have verified on other sources) while on many other printers, the thermistor is close to the heating element (intentionally), and the heating element area is 20C hotter than the bed surface. So you need to know that when someone says that they use kapton tape at 70°C, that corresponds to 48°-54°C on this printer. My printer again came with a filament sample, too short to do anything more than prove extrusion. At $275, this printer is much less of a bargain than it was at $200. If you can get something like one.of reprapguru's kits, you will be able to print larger items, get parts more easily, and you will get fast support and you will know a lot more about your printer. All 3d printers will fail, sometimes sooner, sometimes later. You need to be able to fix them. I have no idea how to fix the Monoprice, and, further, at this time, Monoprice has said that they are holding all parts for new printer production. The thing that finally forced me to return this printer was a failed extruder motor. It was arguably my fault. For my reprap, I would have gone online and bought another standard NEMA 17 (I think, off hand, this is the right one, but I would look it up) motor were it not still in warranty. Given that I now know that the software is actively being developed and that major updates are happening, I am giving this printer another star. I still think that most people would be better suited with a kit, but once you do some calibration this printer works well for small items. What would it take to make my ratings five stars? Open Source for the software, and an exploded diagram with parts list.' I found the most knowledgeable people on Google+. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on August 21, 2016 by N. J. Simicich

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