BOSS Audio Systems AR1500M Car Amplifier - 1500 Watts Max Power, 2 4 Ohm Stable, Class AB, Monoblock, Mosfet Power Supply, Remote Subwoofer Control
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This item is eligible for return within 30 days of receipt
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Availability:
Only 2 left in stock, order soon!
Arrives
Saturday, Feb 14
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Style: Class A/B Monoblock 1500W
Features
- POWER: Maximum Power Output of 1500 Watts at 2 Ohms into one channel. MAX Power Output of 750 Watts at 4 Ohms into one Channel. This amplifier is designed to run your subwoofer(s) giving them the power that they need to perform as they were meant to
- HIGH LEVEL INPUTS: Speaker level inputs are commonly referred to as high-level inputs. Speaker level inputs will be used to connect the AR1500M to your factory radio or an aftermarket radio that does not have low-level (RCA) inputs
- LOW LEVEL INPUTS: Line level inputs, also known as RCA inputs or low-level inputs, use RCA interconnect cables to link the AR1500M with the source unit. Most aftermarket radios have multiple pairs of RCA outputs that can connect to multiple amplifiers
- LOW-PASS CROSSOVER: A low-pass filter is an electronic circuit that removes all the notes below the filter's frequency setting. You will use the Low-pass filter to primarily keep high notes out of your subwoofer(s)
- SWITCHABLE BASS BOOST: Switchable Bass Boost allows you to boost the low bass +18db.
- DIMENSIONS: The AR1500M is 10.3 inches in Depth, 6.5 inches in Width and 2.6 inches in Height. It can be installed in a variety of different places due to its slim and compact design
Item Dimensions LxWxH: 10.3 x 6.5 x 2.8 inches
Manufacturer: BOSS AUDIO
Brand: BOSS Audio Systems
Number of Channels: 1
Specification Met: certified frustration-free
Product Dimensions: 10.3 x 6.5 x 2.8 inches
Item Weight: 5 pounds
Item model number: AR1500M
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer: No
Frequency: 35 Hz
Other display features: Wireless
Color: Black
Whats in the box: Armor Series Monoblock MOSFET Power Class AB Amp (1,500 Watts)
Manufacturer: BOSS AUDIO
Date First Available: March 15, 2011
Frequently asked questions
If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is:
Saturday, Feb 14
Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
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Top Amazon Reviews
Style: Class D Monoblock 4000W
I have mixed feelings about this amp. I have bought 3 of these... I am only using 2 in my setup. I have them running 4 12" subs, each sub has a 3000 watt RMS, dual voice coil. Each sub is in series 2 ohms each coil, so at 4 ohms with the voice coils, then a second sub is in parallel giving it 2 ohms, those 2 subs go on 1 amp. These are competition subs, they hit HARD. I did cheap out on the amp sadly, but these amps do hit pretty good, I am not getting 3000 watts at least I don't think, most I am getting at 2 ohms with this amp is 1000-1500. I had to get a high output alternator with these because even going 75 mph my headlights were dimming really bad. Also needed 2 8 farad capacitors. So I was driving and one of the amps starts smoking, you could smell it... OK crap, didn't order it from Amazon, ordered it from VMInnovations on Amazon or whatever it is... Hard to get a clear reply even though it was less than 30 days, so I won't buy from them again. But this review is not about the seller its about the product. So I get another one from Amazon as I want all 4 subs blasting when I drive. Get it in 2 days, install it, and life continues... Then the other one did the same thing, had the same smell. Crap ok, so being a electronics guy... I opened the first amp, and found 4 100V 220MF capacitors that had puffed tops, ok thats the smell, the funny thing is I noticed the smell happening one at a time on the third amp. Then finally the other day it went out. So, these 4 caps either blew because they are cheap garbage or, just under rated on the voltage. Keep in mind when amplifying your voltage goes up significantly, and when it peaks it might go above 100V. Meh So I went on ebay found a 200V 220MF as they weren't on Amazon. replaced them in all 3 broken amps. They now work fine, power up, I just re-installed 2 of the amps tonight, and ran them for about 30 minutes, solid, as a matter a fact... They seem louder (I doubt maybe just lack of bass for last 2 weeks). I will keep posted on if they blow too. These caps are rated 100Volts more. These subs I have are power hungry, though I am not dropping them below 2 ohms on the amp. I am not even peaking the amp, I was still in the burn in, still loud but slowly increasing volume. So if you have these amps and have issues simply replace the 4 capacitors as shown in the attached picture. I circled the capacitors... Also keep in mind they are polarized, negative terminal on the capacitor is inside. Only time will tell, if this doesn't work I am just going to dish out the extra cash and get some competition amps. Make sure you do not change the value of 220. Also I recommend going above 100Volts, if you go below they will blow for sure. But you can match this value or go above, keep in mind too much above all 4 caps may not fit. The 200V ones I bought do fit, however slightly off. I only recommend this to someone that actually knows how to solder. So good amp yes, you probably won't get the 3000 Watts you are expecting to get at 1 ohm, but I can't say to be honest. The caps will blow if you are using good subs, they didn't blow before I changed the subs from the boss 3000Watt subs, which didn't hit that hard. Good luck ADDITION: So I connected my Fluke meter to measure the current this thing takes, I am getting about 60 amps peak. So not bad... however... 2 of the amps did just fail, one started smoking again other was getting hot and in protect, also blew the inline fuse. See the other picture attached. As you can see the burned components, and transisotrs are fried. Do not use this amp on competition subs. Subs that demand power, it will destroy the amp. Both amps are repairable to an extent of time and troubleshooting however i'd rather not waste time on them. This amp had most transistors blown, and the resistors next to them with the diodes. The other was doing something strange, I checked all components in line, and could only find one bad transistor which I replaced. Otherwise when I connect to my desk amp, its pilling more than 5 amps, goes into protect, but even then all the transistors heat up. Every component in line to them is fine. I know its a failing component that only gets messed up when it actually has current being inducted through it. Otherwise it will be fun to find it. This issue is also intermittent, sometimes it would not do it at all, the amp should pull about 1.5 amps when first powered on, however most the time it just goes into protect. So yea I might play with it a bit, but I am going to go with Orion or Power Acoustk, I learned, don't cheap out if you already spent the money on everything else. I have 3 of these which basically will end up in the trash, one of which is working, the other 2, well one of them I might be able to fix, but I don't want to waste my time. So just keep in mind, if you're using Boss speakers, or something that isn't sucking the life out of your amp, this amp hits pretty hard for what it is. But can't seem to handle the 4 ohm load they are connected too lol. As I said POWER HUNGRY SUBS. I had them connected to the Boss 3200w subs, they worked fine, nothing exploding, smoking, however didn't hit like the subs I have in now.
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Reviewed in the United States on November 21, 2016 by AmazonAddict AmazonAddict
Style: Class A/B Monoblock 1500W + Install Kit
This is a great little amp! I have it paired up with a 900w boss audio phantom series subwoofer and I have never had a problem with it overheating. I usually blast my music everywhere I go and this thing just takes it like a champ.
Reviewed in the United States on September 30, 2023 by Alexander Kruger
Style: Class A/B Monoblock 1500W
This is a Mono amp, meaning you can only plug One Subwoofer into it. For $50, this AMP works flawlessly. It has never turned off from being too hot and I am an Uber EATS driver, so my car is on ALL day. The best part about this AMP, is that is has a Line Out Converter / High Output adapter installed inside it and it comes with wires. My LOC didn't arrive when the AMP did so I was pretty mad, then realized that it had that adapter and was immediately excited again. VERY easy to hook up and use. I recommend this for anybody New to bass systems and looking to install a simple 12". I've got a 1000w 12" Kenwood Subwoofer installed to it. Beats HARD. You won't be dissapointed. HERE'S SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS ON INSTALLING YOUR SUB TO STOCK HEAD UNT YOURSELF. - Subwoofer should be in enclosed box. - Amplifier is best screwed to the subwoofer box - Take the Power wire, cut it as needed, and wire it to the BATTERY input on the AMP, then run it to your car battry Positive Terminal. ( I wrapped the wire around it and stuck the Cars wire harNess over it and tightened it ) - Ground wire goes to the GRND input on the AMP then goes to either a bolt in your trunk ( which shouldn't be painted ) or If you have a fuse box in the trunk with a ground wire, you can use that bolt as well. - Blue power wire. That goes to the REM / Remote input on your AMP and runs either to the power wire in your head unit, or a fuse that turns off when car is off. ( I used my ignition fuse. I Wrapped a wire around it barely, so I could get it back into the fuse slot ) Now that your AMP will have power when the car is turned on or in the accessory mode, we can now wire the speakers. Easiest part, just nobody ever describes it good. -Your subwoofer has two inputs on the box and the subwoofer should be wired inside the box as well. POSITIVE TO POSITIVE, NEGATIVE TO NEGATIVE. - Your amp has a positive and negative input. Use the speaker wire you have and wire it to the subwoofer box, from the AMP. Positive to Positive, Negative to Negative. Positive is often times a silver wire, as Negative will be Copper. OFTEN, not for all speaker wire. NOW, the LOC if your bought one, or I'f your using an AMP like this, which came with an adapter installed in the AMP already. - The LOC / Adapter wires both are the same. They have 5 wires and some LOCs only have 4 wires. With 5 wires, there is a ground wire which I used a piece of Negative speaker wire to make it longer, then ran that to where I had the AMPs ground wire. - Locate your rear speakers and figure out which is the Positive connector and which is the Negative. The Wires on the LOC or Adapter wires will be like this if your looking at it POS. NEG. GROUND. NEG. POS. OR if you only have 4 wires without the ground, ignore the ground. When the adapter wires are plugged to the AMP, you'll see which side is Left and Right. So from there, simply tap those wires into the Left and Right rear speaker. You can take the plug off the speaker wrap it around snug, and slide the plug back on. That's what I did. Just make sure POSITIVE is POSITIVE and NEGATIVE is NEGATIVE. The Wires on the LOC are very short and so are the wires on the Adapter wires foe the AMP if you don't have the LOC. If you are using an LOC, once those wires are tapped to your rear speakers, plug in the RCA and match the colors up correctly. Make sure whatever wires you cut, are properly wrapped In electrical tape or if the shrink wrap, whatever you use. Now, turn your Car on and your AMP is ready to go, and your Bass system should now be bumping. Adjust the GAIN and volume on yur amp according to your taste. If your AMP does NOT come on, it's because your blue power wire isn't installed correctly. Best way to test your AMP is find a normal fuse to something that's always on, like a cig ligter. Use different fuses until you get it to turn on then property identify your ignition fuse that way the AMP cuts off when yu turn the key off. Your welcome.
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Reviewed in the United States on September 28, 2017 by Asylum McNabb
Style: Class A/B Monoblock 1500W + Install Kit
This has been a solid workhorse amp. Sounds great and good power.
Reviewed in the United States on September 8, 2023 by Landon
Style: Class D Monoblock 4000W
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Reviewed in the United States on September 13, 2023 by Thomas
Style: Class D Monoblock 4000W
My brother bought this to use for subs in his car it worked good
Reviewed in the United States on June 27, 2023 by Dylan Walling