Best Choice Products 80in Outdoor Wooden Chicken Coop Multi-Level Hen House, Poultry Cage w/Ramps, Run, Nesting Box, Wire Fence, 3 Access Areas
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Features
- COMFORTABLE LIVING SPACE: This multi-level coop has ramp access to the second level and a run to hold between 3-5 chickens, depending on size and breed
- SECURE HOUSING: Galvanized wire walls and a series of locks on each access point keep your household animals inside, and the predators out
- DURABLE MATERIALS: Made of 100% natural fir wood and galvanized wire mesh for a sturdy construction that will last in all weather conditions
- EASY TO CLEAN: Comes with a removable bottom sliding tray for easy cleaning, and a metal wire fencing for ventilation. Easily reach all areas of the coop with 3 access areas
- LARGE NESTING BOX: This deluxe chicken coop comes with a built-in nesting box and removable divider. Keep nesting box open or closed with a lid cover; OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 79.25"(L) x 26.5"(W) x 51.5"(H); Nesting Box Weight Capacity: 20lbs.; Slide-Out Tray Weight Capacity: 44lbs.; Items contained in 2 separate boxes. Transportation times may vary per box.
Brand: Best Choice Products
Product Dimensions: 79.5"L x 26.5"W x 51.5"H
Gap Size: 24 months
Material: Wood Metal
Specific Uses For Product: Outdoor
Product Dimensions: 79.5 x 26.5 x 51.5 inches
Item Weight: 50 pounds
Manufacturer: Best Choice Products
Item model number: SKY2416
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer: No
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Top Amazon Reviews
We purchased two of these. The first one we purchased for our pet rabbit. It's quite large and spacious and I like the door access on the sides. We had it outside in the weather and it seemed to do okay. The second one we bought for chickens. We put it inside of another small enclosure with a tarp top, to give them a bit more room if I needed to leave them in during the day. We decided to put four chickens. They fit just right. All the chickens prefer the same nesting box to lay eggs in, haha. I like the coop door access from the outside. I was able to assemble the thing by myself in just a couple of hours. I'm also able to move the whole thing around by myself. I decided to purchase aftermarket pressure treated wood to put along the bottom since I knew it being direct contact with the dirt and mud. I painted one white that seemed to help with the weathering outside of it it did fade the paint. It held up long enough to resale after our bunny sadly passed away. I like the vinted top design, and the layout of the egg box. I considered shortly trying to attach the two coops but decided against it I didn't see how to do it although the pictures in the reviews do show people's successfully can joining two. All I know do you think it's a fair by it and if I needed another one I would purchase again. The pictures shows the one after it's been used for years and it's a little bit faded in the sun and these pictures
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Reviewed in the United States on May 3, 2025 by flame chick flame chick
I had all of our chickens in a larger coop, but a bullying situation developed and they had to be separated. I built our first coop out of the parts from a kid's playhouse and it took a while, so I decided to go with a kit this time. It's a nice-looking coop, and was very easy to build. The screws it came with were a little small in some cases, and I used my own where I could. The latches it comes with to secure the doors are tiny, so I only installed two just to keep the doors closed while we moved the unit, and got gate hooks the next day to add to the coop and run doors. The nesting box hatch doesn't come with anything to keep it closed, so you'll need to get something for that. I used gate hooks again. Also the floor of the nesting box just floats, but it was easy enough to secure down with extra screws. The company says it's weatherproof, but it got rained on before I could get any weatherproofing on it and the wood just seemed to suck up the water. Had some roofing left over from the other coop and installed that, but still want to get some weatherproofing or paint on it at some point to be safe. It's fairly light and was easy for my wife and I to move it around to a couple different sites until we decided where to put it. Once placed I secured it to a staked-down landscaping timber in the front, and used an auger tie down on the back so it can't be flipped. I added a six-inch skirt of 1/2" hardware cloth around the base to cover the ground around it so it can't be dug into (like my dog was doing), and added panels to the base to keep the chickens from ejecting material out of it as they scratch around in the mulch. I have this on my other coop too and it doesn't need to be as tall as in the picture, but those were what boards I had lying around. I'd also suggest hanging the waterer and feeder if you get one of the gravity fed styles, as they tend to toss a lot of stuff into their food and water when on the ground, and lifting them up gives them a little more space on the ground to maneuver. I hung the feeder on the edge of the coop right under the ramp, and hung the waterer in the front corner by a small beam I installed to the frame. I think for the price it's a good kit, just be prepared to at least get some waterproofing stain for it. With some other upgrades it can be made into a pretty nice little coop.
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Reviewed in the United States on June 4, 2023 by Christian Christian
UPDATE: after approximately a month of use, I want to encourage you to use longer screws on the interior hen house door. With repeated use (daily opening and closing), the tiny screws attaching the handle bar to the door work loose and fall out. Not only does that make it more difficult to open the door for your birds, but if they see the little screws on the ground before you do, they’ll eat them. Sharp, wood screws in your chicken’s belly. Not good. Get longer screws and consider using a dab of glue on them too. ORIGINAL REVIEW: I’ve assembled LOTS of furniture. In fact, I used to work at a furniture store doing just that. The vast majority of the time, the instruction sheets were so poorly drawn and written in confusing language that we’d throw them away and assemble the furniture simply from experience. That’s fine for guys with experience. For those without, the instruction sheet and make or break the enjoyment of assembling a piece. The instruction sheet that comes with this coop is one of the best that I’ve seen. The drawings are detailed enough for you to be able to determine which piece and which side of the piece you’re looking at. Assembly took me around 30 minutes in a cramped space. The instruction sheet is 5 stars. The coop is made of fir. Cedar causes respiratory problems in chickens so it isn’t used. The wood in this kit is lightly stained a cedar red, but it’s made of fir. The wood is very light weight and soft. That means you don’t need to drill pilot holes for the screws before you drive them in. Still, the factory put pilot holes in most pieces to guide assembly. LISTEN: the wood is very soft and porous, you absolutely MUST PAINT THIS before using it outside! This is in no way weather resistant! You MUST paint it and you must use a weatherproof paint or stain. I recommend oil-based paint. I also recommend a high quality outdoor paint like Benjamin Moore or Sherwin-Williams. We used an acrylic paint from Walmart and the wood soaked up the first 2 coats. The cheap Walmart paint is too thin. We used more and got poorer coverage than if we’d bought a quality paint. I highly recommend painting the pieces BEFORE you assemble it. If you don’t, it can be a paint to paint it thoroughly and neatly. Even with the 4 coats of cheap paint input on this, after the first rain, the wood started the buckle in some places. Don’t do what I did. Instead, use a good oil-based paint. Another thing I did which I recommend is getting a clear, silicon caulk and caulking around the edges of the roof pieces to prevent rain penetration. The hardware leaves something to be desired. It’s adequate to assemble the building and hold it together, but it’s not robust. You’ll want to head to the hardware store for some upgrades on a few things. I’ll try to explain. LISTEN: This is NOT predator proof! It’s barely predator resistant. You MUST upgrade some hardware and make some modifications to make this predator proof. You’ll want a small roll of hardware cloth with 1/2” holes. You’ll need a staple gun and 1/2” staples. The floor of the egg box simply sits in the coop and any predator of moderate height and strength can push the floor of the egg box up and climb right inside the hen house. Some people have opted to screw the floor down, but then it cannot be removed for cleaning. I chose to cut a piece of hardware cloth roughly a foot and a half by two feet (you’ll have to measure) and staple it under the bottom. You may want to cut some strips of hardware cloth, crawl inside the coop (or have your kid do it) and staple it to the inside of the roof peak and edges to keep snakes from getting that way. The staples the factory uses to attached the hardware cloth to the frame are essentially cosmetic. They are very small and I wouldn’t trust them to hold the hardware cloth against a push from a raccoon or opossum. Before you assemble it, get your staple gun and drive 1/2” staples around all the hardware cloth. Another potential predator problem is tunneling under the edge of the coop. I’ve even heard horror stories of stronger predators lifting the edge of the coop (it’s very lightweight). To combat this, I got 6 L brackets. I screwed them to the 4 corners and 2 in the middle of the coop so that the L went under the edge to the outside. Then I placed garden pavers around the perimeter of the coop. That keeps predators from digging under the edge or tipping the coop since the pavers are holding the L brackets down. Also, the latches are comical in my opinion, and the coop comes with no door handles. At the hardware store, get 3 4” sash lift handles (drawer handles). You’ll want to attach one to the coop gate, one to the hen house door, and one to the litter pan. I also recommend getting 3 small hasp sets. The coop comes with some very small and wonky slide locks. I put the hasps at the coop door, the hen house door, and one on the egg box. Then you’ll have the option of locking them with carabiners or some other 2-step lock like a raccoon lock. I’d say this coop kit has “good bones”, but you do need to paint it and make a few upgrades in hardware and predator proofing. This coop is small so it’s ideal for bantam sized chickens. It’ll house 4 bantams comfortably if you allow them some free-range time outside the coop. If you plan to never let them out of the coop, I’d limit it to 2.
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Reviewed in the United States on June 26, 2021 by totallyfrozen totallyfrozen
Assembly is so easy and it is exactly what i was lookimg for! Thanks for the great product!
Reviewed in the United States on April 24, 2025 by shaun platt