OVERTURE Transparent Filament Clear PETG Filament 1.75mm, PETG Transparent 3D Printer Consumables, 1kg Filament (2.2lbs), Dimensional Accuracy 99% Probability +/- 0.03 mm,Transparent
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Availability:
12 left in stock
Arrives
Wednesday, Jun 11
Color: Transparent
Features
- [1 kg PETG Spool x 1]-- The prints made by our OVERTURE Transparent PETG actually display translucent color, even a little white feel. This kind of visual discrepancy is not determined by the material itself, but by the principle of 3D printing, i.e.Fused Deposition Molding ( FDM), which results in inconsistent optical refractive index of the medium.
- [Clog-free & Bubble-Free]-- Designed and Manufactured with Clog-Free patent to guarantee a smooth and stable printing experience. Complete drying for 24 hours before vacuum aluminum foil packaging, which can effectively protect the PETG filament from moisture. As the PETG material is sensitive to moisture, please remember to put it back into the re-sealable aluminum foil bag timely after using to maintain excellent printing result
- [Less- tangle and Easy to Use]-- Full mechanical winding and strict manual examination, which guarantee the PETG filaments tidy and easy to be fed; Larger spool inner diameter design makes feeding smoother
- [Dimensional Accuracy & Consistency]-- Advanced CCD diameter measuring and self-adaptive control system in the manufacturing guarantee these PLA filaments of 1.75 mm diameter, dimensional accuracy 99% Probability + / - 0.03 mm; 1 kg spool (2.2lbs)
- [Cost-effective and Wide Compatibility]-- With over 8 years 3D filaments R & D experience, thousands tons of filaments output every month, Overture is capable of manufacturing all kinds of filaments in large scale with premium quality, which contribute to Overture filament cost-effective and reliable for most common 3D printers, such as MK3, Ender 3, Monoprice FlashForge and more
Package Dimensions : 8.7 x 8.19 x 2.8 inches; 2.2 Pounds
Item model number : OVPETG175
Date First Available : August 26, 2019
Manufacturer : OVERTURE
Best Sellers Rank: #181 in Industrial & Scientific (See Top 100 in Industrial & Scientific) #11 in 3D Printing Filament
#11 in 3D Printing Filament:
Customer Reviews: 4.5 out of 5 stars 13,606 ratings
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If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is:
Wednesday, Jun 11
Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
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Top Amazon Reviews
Color: Transparent
***Update*** TLDR: Downgrading to 2 stars due to inability to finish larger and/or more complicated builds with this filament. This filament is proving to be very temperamental in my Ender 3 v2. The problem seems to be with the Bowden tube (or there is already a spiral tension in the filament as it is wound on the spool at the factory). As a piece is printed, the filament spirals as it flexed through the Bowden tube to the hot end. As this filament has a fair amount of elasticity (much more than PLA), this torsion doesn't extrude out the hot end but instead starts to translate through the filament back to the feeder. First will come the clicking as the filament starts to bind up in the Bowden tube and at the feeder; this is the combination of the feeding gear/bearing trying to grip onto filament that is under increasing spiral tension (think of twisting fibers into a thicker and tougher strand of rope) and slowly begins to strip the "bite marks" off the filament, especially during retractions. Eventually, the filament will twist and be stripped to the point of fracture. The filament going into the Bowden tube stops advancing to the hot end, and a strand of filament comes out of the feeder anywhere it can escape This happens even after upgrading to Capicorn Bowden tubes, playing around with the "grip" tension of the feeder, cleaning the hot end barrel, setting the screws holding the feeding gear/bearing to the right torque, etc. (One can pull out the filament from the Bowden tube and see a spiral staircase imprinted by the extruder all the way down to the hot end.) The solution is to remove all of the filament that has passed the into the Bowden tube and re-load virgin filament. Then it will print fine until enough torsion builds back up again. However, if a piece requires quite a bit of retractions, then this will happen much sooner - somewhere between 3-6 meters of filament. This isn't because of less torsion, but because the feeder is pushing back and forth on a piece of filament that is becoming less compliant and more difficult to handle, which quickly wears off the "bite marks" and erodes the filament into a thinner strand. If the feeder bites into a virgin piece of filament, then it can maintain bite for a bit longer, but spiraling will still eventually happen. I'm taking away stars as it's not usable for large builds or builds requiring a lot of retractions. Not dropping past 3 star as the prints that can be completed are translucent with a good mix of elasticity and strength/durability. However, this makes working with this filament much, MUCH more frustrating than more forgiving alternatives like PLA. Beginners and those with Bowden tube printers should probably use this filament with caution due to the frustration that awaits. Those looking for unique PETG properties might consider giving this a try. I don't know how this filament behaves under a direct extruder, but I suspect results may be better as it seems that the back and forth flexing of the Bowden tube is what is applying a "crankshaft" effect on the filament that is torsioning the filament. ***Initial Review*** Previously, I used only Overture's PLA+/PLA Pro filament (which is a great PLA filament, BTW), but I wanted a filament with greater strength and unique features (i.e. translucency). Still being relatively new to 3D printing, only printing/experimenting during my scarce spare time, and not having a specific application demanding rigorous specifications for printed parts, I opted for PETG over more specialized filaments that reputedly require more more experience and time to get right. First, Overture's quality is great. Their clear PETG filament is white without any perceivable tint. It feeds great; hasn't clogged or tangled. It's labelled as clear, transparent, or translucent. It's best described as translucent (although I have seen some reviewers here polish their prints until clear/transparent. So it is possible to get crystalline prints - but I've not tried this as I don't have the time/patience). When printed at the higher end of the recommend nozzle temps (my settings, 245C), prints appear more glossy. However, I have to use 90+C bed temp to prevent warping, and I also slow down the print speed and increase retraction to reduce stringing. It still strings quite a bit. I haven't found the right settings yet, so I use these settings for parts where the stringing primarily affects/hidden amongst infill. When printed at the lower end of the recommended nozzle temps (my settings, 225C - which is lower than Overture's recommended range - bed temp 80C), prints appear more matte. However, handling feels more like PLA with improved details and much, much reduced stringing. I've tried to go down to 220C, but I starting having adhesion issues. I have prints comparing both settings (print and fan speed set to same). The left clip was printed at the higher temp and the right clip printed at lower temp. For the gears, the right gear was printed at the higher temp, and the left gear at the lower temp. Glossy doesn't necessarily mean more transparent, although one can see very slightly "deeper" into the glossy print. Both exhibit more of a frosted glass appearance; glossy just means more reflective and less surface friction (i.e. the glossy gear spins slightly more quietly than the matte one, which is already much more quiet than PLA due to increased plasticity/elasticity of PETG). I'm still working on getting the right settings. But from what I see so far, I would recommend Overture to anyone working with PETG.
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Reviewed in the United States on December 21, 2020 by EZBuyer
Color: Purple
Good PETG for the price. It is not too picky on temperature, it prints fine anywhere from 245-255 on my Ender 3 V2. It doesn't bridge very well but that is to be expected for PETG, if you want to bridge I recommend printing at 245 and turning on bridging settings in Cura which makes bridges possible although pretty ugly. Supports work better than bridging, but can be hard to remove because PETG sticks to itself so well. Here are my settings for Ender 3 v2: micro swiss all-metal hotend / original extruder / original bowden tube bltouch leveling probe + yellow springs nozzle 0.4mm 250c bed plain glass + gluestick, 85c first layer speed 10 speed after first layer 30 first layer height: 0.28 layer height after first layer: 0.2 fan: none unless you are trying to bridge, if so use bridge detection to turn fan 100% only for the bridge retraction 3mm @ 30 I find that the biggest struggle with PETG is just getting the first layer to stick and look good. Once you get past the first layer it is usually smooth sailing. If you have problems with the first layer, first of all dry your filament even if it is brand new. It is an easy way to eliminate frustrations. Also go ahead and calibrate your extruder steps and measure your filament diameter and put that into your slicer, again these are easy steps that ensure you will not be fighting under/over extrusion while you are trying to get everything else figured out. Next use glue stick on plain glass and let the glue stick dry. You want the glass to look dull, not shiny, but it also shouldn't feel sticky to the touch. This combo works great for me, it adheres well but not TOO well and the prints pop themselves off when they cool. Lots of people like hairspray too but gluestick works fine for me and is less messy. Finally the #1 most important thing is to adjust your z offset and first layer height. You cannot mush the filament onto the bed like PLA, it needs to fall out of the nozzle and gently lay down onto the bed. Before doing anything with your z-offset I recommend turning your first layer height up to .28 or .3. The reason is that this sets your nozzle higher AND automatically adjusts the flow rate to match. If you just start bumping your z-offset higher and higher, you will be under-extruding by a lot which can cause its own problems. Once you set your first-layer height to .28, then start printing a test print and live-adjust your Z until the lines lay down and stick to the bed, and are neither gooping up onto the nozzle, nor being hit by the nozzle and pulled off the bed. This is tricky because the sweet spot here is TINY. Like within one or 2 micro-adjustments on the z, either side of that you will have issues. But once you hit the sweet spot on the Z you are golden. Then print some bed leveling test prints and adjust your first layer extrusion multiplier or line width if needed so your lines are touching. I recommend always using the bed level print that is CIRCLES when starting off, not squares. The sharp corners on the squares are super unforgiving and will pop off instantly if your settings aren't right. It is easier to use a bed leveling print with circles to dial your settings in without frustrating yourself and needing to restart the print a hundred times. When printing things over 2" tall I recommend using a wide brim because originally I was using skirt and I have had taller prints pop off the bed right as they are nearly finished, I think the reason is due to the lower part of the print cooling off. A brim is cheap insurance against your whole print being ruined at the last moment, and is easy to remove and leaves little trace that it was ever there.
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Reviewed in the United States on August 6, 2021 by haggis
Color: Transparent
I wish I could find an FDM filament that is actually clear and colorless. This is slightly purple, PLA is slightly yellow, and ABS is slightly green. Make sure you adjust print head and bed temperatures to manufacturer's recommendations, this is hotter than slicer and printer default settings. Once you get the bed hot enough (I used 85C), adhesion problems diminish. Still need brim and a little gluestick for small models.
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Reviewed in the United States on December 2, 2022 by D. Kiefer
Color: Black (2-pack)
I've used probably a hundred rolls of this filament over the years. It is very consistent which is a huge benefit - when you get your prints tuned in at a certain temp & such, it's nice to know that a new role of the same filament is going to print the same way. The switch from plastic to cardboard spools is nice (although it makes the printer more dusty if your spool is mounted above). I have never had to dry this filament or had any issues with abnormalities between the rolls. Overall, it's good consistent filament. After dabbling with cheaper brands of PETG, I keep coming back to Overture - it's a safe bet.
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Reviewed in the United States on November 9, 2022 by TJW
Color: Transparent
I have gone up and down the scale of temperature, plate temp, retraction, etc This PETG is some of the worst I have tried to print. I finally had to go all the way to 250 EO and 80 Bed temp to get the stuff to stick to the bed and trust me, I have very nice, new PEI bed (glass would be worse). I did finish the print but I am not very impressed. Sorry overture, A for effort but transparent isn't your thing....
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Reviewed in the United States on November 22, 2022 by Kim Williams
Color: Black (1-pack)
Prints well for me at 240C bed 85C. Glass bed with hair spray. The spool I received was plastic not cardboard. The spool warped in my filament dryer at 70C, the filament did not melt. I had to respool the filament to an empty spool. So I gave 4 stars rather than 5.
Reviewed in the United States on December 3, 2022 by Sm