MELLCOM 12'x20' Hardtop Gazebo, Metal Double Roof Aluminum Gazebos with Curtain and Netting,Brown Permanent Galvanized Steel Pavilion for Patio, Lawn & Deck
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Availability:
19 left in stock
Arrives
Dec 24 – Dec 25
Material Type: Galvanized Steel Roof Aluminum Frame
Size: 12'x20'
Features
- GALVANIZED STEEL DOUBLE ROOFInstead of fabric & polycarbonate, our fade-resistant & rust-resistant galvanized steel roof keeps out bright light and harmful UV rays, making the metal gazebo strong enough to withhold heavy snow and wind. The double top design facilitates ventilation, cooling and slowing down the wind speed.
- RUSTPROOF ALUMINUM FRAMESturdy permanent gazebo built with 4.0"x4.0" triangular powder-coated aluminum frame, which is more stable and durable than standard others. The gazebo with pre-drilled bases is designed for all kinds of uneven ground and can be installed in different outdoor situations.
- NETTING & CURTAINS & HOOKSFully enclosed zippered removable double-layer PBV-coated curtains and netting protect you from UV rays while adding more privacy. Equipped with hooks on the top roof, it can be used to hang up the lights and fans to enrich the aluminum hardtop gazebo.
- SPACIOUS SPACE12 x 20 vertical strip patio gazebo provides ample space for a sofa set and a 7-piece dining set. You could use our capacity guide to choose. Meanwhile, We offer a wide range of outdoor gazebos in a variety of sizes, styles, and materials, you can choose it depending on your need of courtyards, backyard, swimming pool.
- EASY TO ASSEMBLEThe hardtop gazebo comes in a total of 5 boxes, so please collect them all before installing them. We recommend that 4-6 people work together to assemble the gazebo and it will take approximately 6-8 hours to assemble it according to the instructions. We offer excellent after-sales service. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us.
Brand: MELLCOM
Material: Galvanized Steel Roof Aluminum Frame
Style: Garden
Product Dimensions: 240"L x 144"W x 122.4"H
Item Weight: 421 Pounds
Frame Material: Aluminum
Water Resistance Level: Water Resistant
Shape: Rectangular
Ultraviolet Light Protection: 99%
Assembly Required: Yes
Brand: MELLCOM
Material: Galvanized Steel Roof Aluminum Frame
Style: Garden
Product Dimensions: 240"L x 144"W x 122.4"H
Item Weight: 421 Pounds
Frame Material: Aluminum
Water Resistance Level: Water Resistant
Shape: Rectangular
Ultraviolet Light Protection: 99%
Assembly Required: Yes
Color: Brown Vertical Stripe
Manufacturer: MELLCOM
Floor Area: 240 Square Feet
Item Weight: 421 pounds
Frequently asked questions
If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is:
Dec 24 – Dec 25
Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
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Top Amazon Reviews
Material Type: Galvanized Steel Roof Aluminum F...
Size: 12'x14'
We love our new Gazebo! Took a few days but it looks great and is well built. Added solar powered lighting and a Gazebo ceiling fan and its just perfect on a hot day or at night. We spent last evening inside during a nice rain storm and not a drop came through. The package arrived in separate boxes and was packed really well. A few minor pieces were missing but the support team was fantastic and got them shipped to me quickly. I would definitely recommend this product to anyone looking to upgrade their backyard experience. Gene
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Reviewed in the United States on August 1, 2025 by Gene
Material Type: Galvanized Steel Roof Aluminum F...
Size: 12'x14'
This review is for the Mellcom 12x14 WQG-030-2 metal roof gazebo. UPDATE: How to apply the curtain sashes The sashes are in 3 parts. There is a short strip with rough velcro, a short strip with soft velcro, and a long strip with soft velcro. If you have hung your screen on the inside, solid panels on the outside, and pushed the metal wire clip through the grommet in the solid panel and into the hole in the gazebo upright, here is your next step: - If you want to close one set of panels, use both SHORT strips, the rough one and and the short soft one. These two strips are positioned opposite each other - one on each side of the metal wire clip. The long soft strip hangs loose but is unobtrusive. - If you want to wrap up both sets of panels, use the rough SHORT strip and the soft LONG strip. However, in this scenario, BOTH strips hang on the same side of the metal wire clip. Pull both out to one side of the fabric, and wrap one around the front and one around the back. Let the short soft strip hang loose inside. We have been using this for over 2 months now, and it is AMAZING. Super sturdy, water tight, attractive, and perfect in our yard. We have 750 solar fairy lights strung up, 2 solar dimmer lights, and a hanging fan (on a plug). The screens do a great job of keeping most flying bugs out, and the roof has not gotten too hot for the solar panels on our lights. The roof panels have a sheen and reflect a little bit of light - especially nice with the fairy lights. With the fan, we can't easily use the J-hooks for lights, but we found some small angle brackets and rigged up a way to hang the lights from the screw holes for the vent screen. We're VERY happy with this gazebo. I'd like to give it 4.5 stars, since the installation issues were just a minor blip compared to how much we like this unit. ORIGINAL REVIEW AND BUILD TIPS This was a difficult build, no doubt. My husband and I have assembled plenty of stuff over the years; we know what good kits look like, and we know how to cobble stuff together to make it look good even when nothing is level or square. This kit is pretty good, but so many pieces and so few instructions when you need them! I did not get any photos during the build - the most useful photos would have needed a 3rd person, as our hands were full. Over the project, we definitely found some holes were a touch off. We felt the tolerances overall were not very good. And we found the hardware machining to be not great at times. Nothing was a deal breaker, and nothing felt cheap or wrong, but there were times that brute force was needed to get 3-4 holes to line up properly. In our team, I do all the organizing and layout, my husband does most of the heavy lifting or strength-relevant steps. He also takes more time with setup and modeling, often putting it all together without parts before he does the real work - it can take extra time, but this does prevent costly mistakes. He does have an issue with heights, but is fine if there's something to touch nearby. I'm fine with heights, but very short. I will be addressing only those steps where we found we needed more info - there are plenty of steps that are self-explanatory and need no further comment. I will not use part names, page numbers, or step numbers, as every kit seems to be different. The day before we started: • I put all the long boxes upside down and cut away the tape and strapping where the lid came down to the bottom. Then flipped over and removed the lids. The instructions and hardware were in the largest long box. I didn't mess with the largest wide heavy box - that has the roof tiles. • I read through the instructions a few times. I also read back through all the reviews and made notes on some of the pages. • For the hardware, I prepped a pile of ziplocs with colored sticky notes with the info on each bolt/screw. I dug all the hardware out of the laminated packaging and put each item in it's prepared ziploc. Finally, I used colored markers on each page of the instructions to match the colors of the sticky notes. This way, I would be able to tell my husband "next step needs the green bag". • Every single item is in a piece of plastic. I unloaded every box, removed the Saran wrap when needed, and opened up the taped end of each plastic cover. I left the plastic on to protect the pieces, but I made sure it would be easy to remove each piece. I also dropped each group into a dedicated box base or box top (some pieces did share a box, but not many). • These steps so far took 2-3 hours - no joke. And during assembly, there are a few dozen little stickers that have to be scraped off as installation progresses. But that can't be done in advance unless you have a very large space to stage materials. Day 1 of assembly (7 productive hours - a bit of rain put the project on pause mid-day): • First, and so importantly, keep your attachments loose to start! Hand tight or even LESS… let it be wobbly. When you realize you're about to cover a bolt, go ahead and tighten properly - there aren't many hidden bolts. • Second, and also super important, you MUST have a level and square assembly. You may not be able to do any work on this until you have assembled the 4 uprights and the lower horizontal rails, but at that point, PAUSE and make sure you're level and square. This is essential to the rest of the project. We spent 1 hour on this. • Before you get to the point above, there is an instruction to stabilize the horizontal rails using some bolts with spacers from the OUTSIDE of the horizontal pieces. We actually couldn't get 2 of these in at all, even after we leveled the frame. This was our first and only time we saw holes that were genuinely badly drilled. Later, one of the angle braces on that corner also wouldn't fit. We moved on and got the rest built, but even after everything else went together fine, we couldn't apply these spacer bolts. • When you're ready to do the top frame, make sure you either have a ladder over 6' tall or a person taller than 5'. We did the top a little different. We assembled just two of the diagonal supports, then I stood on the ladder and held the assembly up in the air (arms fully extended - thank goodness it wasn't breezy!) while my husband tacked down the 2 corners. But then we realized only the person on the ladder could attach the remaining 2 diagonals at the summit. This was challenging for a 5' person standing on a too-high rung of a 6' ladder. But on the other hand, I would have struggled to hold up the weight of the whole assembly with 4 diagonals. And my husband could not stand on a ladder holding the whole thing in the air unless he had something to stabilize him… My point is - PLAN this step carefully. Of all the points in the project, this is the one where 3 people would have been nice. Or we could have taken out our 16' convertible ladder that weighs a ton. Both of these would have been far safer than how we did this. • I read many reviews about "use so-many curtain clips on this side or that side" but you need to read your own instructions!! It seems 10' sides need 6 clips on each half, 12' sides need 7, and 14' sides need 8. What you need will be in your instruction book. • At this point, we unpacked the roof box. We laid out just the tiles we needed for the roof vent, and found some portions of the edges weren't bent quite enough. A bit of rework with pliers fixed them. We also had a couple very small dents, which we decided to ignore - we know it will have more with falling branches and hail. But we did strategically place the dented pieces to be less obtrusive. • The clips on the roof tiles seemed pretty secure in our kit. In fact a couple were so snug I couldn't get them on. That said, there were 2 or 3 tiles where the clips did get unhooked, but that was before we figured out how to apply the roof tiles properly. I don't recommend taping them or doing anything extra. Just know you may need to redo a bit once or twice. • We finished Day 1 by applying the roof tiles on the vent and getting the roof cap into place. That went pretty well. • We also attached 2 legs to the ground at this point. We didn't use the bolts supplied, as we have a brick patio. We have heavy duty spiral anchors drilled into the ground and we used cinched web straps to attach each leg to the anchors. My point is - before applying the large tiles, bolt or lash it down! For us, Day 2 was very windy and these canopies are really just huge sails until they're fixed in place. • At the end of Day 1, we decided to "quickly" tack up the horizontal braces for the lower roof tiles, and also do the step where the horizontal bars on the end of the roof trusses end. I think some people call that piece a "gutter", but it's not very gutter-like. My point is, do NOT apply that end piece that will wrap around the tile ends just above head height. DO NOT! Even though the instructions clearly say to do this before installing the roof tiles. We ended up removing these pieces on Day 2. Day 2 (8 hours, including 2 wasted hours messing with the roof): • We started this day by laying out every one of the lower roof tiles, repairing the edges that needed more fold, and strategically placing the couple of dented panels. Overall, everything was in fair-to-good condition - no show stoppers. We also applied all the clips at this point. • After a few frustrating starts and stops and too many useless YouTube videos, we finally figured out the installation. If you have a rectangular model, start on one of the SHORT walls. And if you have a side that will be difficult to access, do that side earlier in the process. And all that being said - it's helpful to do an easy access side first to see how it all works. • Also, contine to do hand-tight or less, but if you have a difficult access situation, full tight may be best to do as you complete each piece on that section. • Seperate about 10 of the nuts and bolts that go around the perimeter about 6" from the edge, where the roof tile will be bolted to the horizontal frame pieces from the first few pages. Give the bolts to the person who will place and adjust the tiles, and the nuts to the helper. The helper should also grab a handful of the plastic trapezoid spacers. Restock these parts as your stash gets low. • To apply the lower roof, start with the triangular corner pieces, with one person on a ladder outside the perimeter, the other person inside the perimeter. Slide the tile up from the bottom and line up the holes about 6" from the edge of the roof tile. The helper positions a trapezoid spacer in the gap under one of the ridges, maintaining the hole alignment. The ladder person drops a bolt down until the end is accessible underneath, and the helper applies the nut. Hand tight or less! Do this on just one of the holes in the middle - not the side edge. There is no need to do all of the edge holes yet - you may need to nudge things a bit as you go. • Move to the next piece, but now slide the overlap ridge on top of the first tile. Be careful not to unseat the clips as you slide the next piece under the clip on the previous piece. Repeat the spacer/bolt/nut application for 1 or 2 holes, but I don't recommend doing the overlap hole just yet. • Move to the next tile - note that as the roof tiles get long, the ladder person may need to reposition to the top edge of the tiles and nudge the edges. • When you get to the center of a short side, or almost center of a long side, go to the other corner and build up from there. • The instructions show these steps with some arrows pointing up and sideways. But there is no sideways motion - just get the corner piece attached, then slide all remaining pieces straight up from the bottom.There is a support bar at the top that prevents any sideways movement for certain pieces. • When each tile is secured, attach the longer bolts that are 2' or so from the ends - some will require the helper and trapezoid spacers, and for us at least, many of those mid-tile holes were quite poorly aligned. Be sure to use the correct hardware - our kit used 3 different bolts for the roof tiles. Again, hand tight or less! • If you don't have any access issues, do both short sides before doing the long sides - when you get to the center tile of each long side, it's super easy because the top edge is straight and has no clips to align. • Once all the tiles are up, detach all the remaining nuts and bolts and fill in all the missing spacers at the edges. This goes pretty fast, even though there are so many of these! This is also the time to fully tighten the edge bolts and the mid-tile bolts. The person underneath needs the supplied wrench (or a proper wrench) for this step. • The last roof step is to apply the end pieces ("gutters") - and 2 people are helpful for this, as each bolt has to go through 4 layers that may or may not align. The helper just holds the other end, but it's quite important to prevent damage to any of the parts. • Once all the parts are applied and all the hardware is gone - go back and tighten EVERYTHING - use the instruction book to remind yourself of all the stuff you need to revisit. • When installing the curtains, the finished side of both the solid panels and the screen panels faces outside. I found it helpful to wedge a wide screwdriver into each clip to open them up a little and help the grommets slide in. But they are plastic, so don't wedge too far. • Install the fabric side first, on the outer set of clips - you may like to keep them all zipped together as shipped. Just make sure the grommets line up with each post. • The screen panels have a hook and velcro straps sewn on. Again, the finished side faces out - and the hook also faces OUT. The hook goes through the solid fabric grommet and clips into the metal upright. • I haven't fully figured out the velcro straps yet. But it was super windy and I just wanted to be done! I think the straps are designed to allow flexibility in keeping one or the other fabric tied back without undoing both. But it's an odd design and it feels like there is missing velcro. One last tip - the roof is MAGNETIC, so if you want to rig up string lights, you may like to pick up some magnetic hooks or cable clips. These are much easier to apply and move around than adhesive hooks.
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Reviewed in the United States on April 21, 2025 by Kris D Kris D
Material Type: Galvanized Steel Roof Aluminum F...
Size: 12'x16'
Amazing gazebo. Took a star off because the curtains are cheap and the roof was such a royal pain to assemble. I followed another reviewers advice and kept everything loose until I was fully done, then went back and tightened every screw. That was a great tip. One other thing I did was to add 2x4 boards inside the legs for extra support and rigidity. The wind might be snow to push the gazebo over but it will be really hard to break 4 2x4's with very little room to do so. I was not missing a single part, and the boxes were not damaged. All arrived at the same time from FedEx. Shipped from Chicago, so I got them about 3 days earlier than expected due to my proximity to Chicago. My advice to anyone else, use a drill and a drill bit, all the nuts and bolts use the same size Allen wrench so you only need one drill bit. And my second piece of advice, the screen goes on the inside, and the privacy curtain goes on the outside! the hook on the curtain tie down actually goes through the other curtain. There's a hole right in the center for it. It took me about 12 hours to build this. As a 6'4" average man. If you are short, it will take much much longer! I did need a second pair of hands only twice, once when getting the long beams up onto the legs and once to push the roof down as I slid it over. Used them for 5 min tops. I wasn't slow, it's just tedious work. The metal is average, not thin or thick. But it does have a very nice texture to it. I'm tall, and so is this, I do not need to duck to get under this gazebo. I did not need to drill any new holes or anything, everything lined up great. I will say, the curtains tie down band and strings are garbage. You are better off getting a pretty bungy cord and wrapping them around everything. If you are going to get a ceiling fan, I'd recommend a 52" fan with a 18" drop. The support beams are 18" from the center mounting point. The fan in my photos is 36" and way too small.
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Reviewed in the United States on June 22, 2025 by Patric Patric