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Stiebel Eltron

Stiebel Eltron 224199 240V, 1 Phase, 50/60 Hz, 24 kW Tempra 24 Plus Whole House Tankless Electric Water Heater, Advanced Flow Control

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Availability: 14 left in stock
Fulfilled by ONLINE PLUMBING
Arrives Apr 29 – May 3
Order within 12 hours and 56 minutes
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Style: Tempra 24 Plus (Discontinued Model)


Features

  • Digital temperature control. Voltage : 240 Volt or 208 Volt
  • Proven reliability
  • No venting required
  • Sleek design fits anywhere
  • Save at least 15-20% on the hot water portion of your electric bill

Brand: Stiebel Eltron


Capacity: 24 Gallons


Power Source: Battery Powered


Item Dimensions LxWxH: 21.7 x 20.1 x 9.6 inches


Color: White


Wattage: 18000 watts


Voltage: 208 Volts


Item Weight: 16.1 Pounds


Style: Tempra 24 Plus (Discontinued Model)


Manufacturer: ‎Stiebel Eltron


Part Number: ‎Tempra 24 Plus


Item Weight: ‎16.1 pounds


Product Dimensions: ‎21.7 x 20.1 x 9.6 inches


Item model number: ‎Tempra 24 Plus


Is Discontinued By Manufacturer: ‎No


Color: ‎White


Style: ‎Tempra 24 Plus (Discontinued Model)


Power Source: ‎Battery Powered


Voltage: ‎208 Volts


Wattage: ‎18000 watts


Item Package Quantity: ‎1


Certification: ‎certified frustration-free


Included Components: ‎tankless heater


Batteries Included?: ‎No


Batteries Required?: ‎No


Warranty Description: ‎7 years leakage/ 3 years parts


Date First Available: July 17, 2009


Frequently asked questions

If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is: Apr 29 – May 3

Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.

To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.

View our full returns policy here.

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Similar Products

Top Amazon Reviews

    • Great for low-flow shower but do your research
Style: Tempra 15 Plus (Discontinued Model)
This review ended up being more about installation than about the water heater itself. If you're thinking about installing this yourself, you'll find a lot of details and cautions in this review. Otherwise, just skip to near the end of the review (where I wrote "THE HEATER ITSELF" on its own line) for my thoughts about who might want to use this kind of heater and about the heater itself. You are taking some risk by installing this on your own, and in my case it took waaaay more time and money than I expected. The install seems simple at first glance, but there are many details that can cause problems. I'll point out the details I discovered while researching my installation, but I could have easily missed something and every installation will have some different challenges, like avoiding drilling into live wires or weakening critical support beams. Also, many cities/counties require all plumbing and/or electrical work to be done with a permit, so you may be fined for ignoring that when you sell your house. The installation instructions in the manual are written for a plumber and electrician, so they won't mention things like your breaker box must be in sight of the hot water heater or you must install a method to lock the circuit breaker in the off position or install a power disconnect switch within sight to meet code requirements (which vary by city/county). Some cities/counties require you to connect a 6-gauge wire between hot and cold water pipes. I found one newsgroup quote a section of the national electric code that makes it sound like you must use one 4-pole disconnect instead of two 2-pole disconnects, but when I asked on another group they said two 2-pole were fine and the first newsgroup was wrong. I'm not sure which to believe, but I people on the newsgroup did verify that a 4-pole disconnect would need to be rated at 240 volts or higher, not 480 volts, because even though there are four wires, 240 volts is the maximum voltage passing over any particular set of wires. Unfortunately I couldn't find any 240 volt, 40+ amp, 4-pole disconnects with an enclosure, so I went with two 240 volt 60 amp 2-pole disconnects, each rated for 10,000 amps from Lowes (labeled as for use with an air conditioner). You must use two, 2-pole, 40 amp circuit breakers and the 2 poles of each breaker must be connected such that if one side of the circuit trips, so does the other side. Not all 40-amp breakers are wired that way. The screws holding wires in the circuit breaker, disconnects, and water heater need to be torqued down to a specific firmness to prevent too little metal from contacting the wires and creating a spot that heats up and wastes power at best or damages the equipment at worst, so you need to buy a torque wrench that measures to at least 50 inch pounds (lb-in) which is far less than larger wrenches that measure in FOOT pounds (lb-ft). I bought KD Tools 2955 Beam Torque Wrench (0-60-Inch/Pounds 1/4-Inch drive) and am fairly happy with it. Unfortunately the 40 amp breaker I bought did not come with labeling indicating the correct torque values and the Stiebel Eltron itself also has no torque values mentioned anywhere that I can find. I read online that most electricians tend to just tighten things until they can't tighten them further or until the screw head breaks, but that strikes me as a terrible practice. Instead, I tightened everything to 36-40 lb-in which is the range the labeling on the disconnect says to use with 8-gauge wire. But 36-40 lb-in is pretty tight and so you need a screw driver bit that fits well into the type of screw you're tightening, or it will strip. I had a lot of trouble with my screwdriver bits stripping the screws. When I finally found one that worked well in the disconnect, the bit itself broke after three screws! So I used a dremel to grind it back to the correct shape. Unfortunately the Stiebel has screws recessed such that you need a 7/16" long flathead screwdriver to fit in a 1/4" diameter plastic sheath. The 1/4" hex shank of the screwdriver bit I ground wouldn't fit in the sheath (because the distance from one point of the hex shank to the opposite point is over 1/4"). So I tried to use a blade that was too thin and somewhere over 30 lb-in that blade actually broke half the head of the screw off so now I can't loosen or tighten it! Luckily Stiebel Eltron support was kind and is sending me a replacement screw at no cost. Since I had so much trouble with stripping I did some research and "slotted insert" driver bits come only in a range of standard sizes where each blade thickness corresponds to a particular blade width. As blade thickness increases, so does blade width. A "14F-16R" slotted insert bit is as large as you can get on a 1/4" hex shank and it has a blade thickness of 0.056" (1.42mm) which might work in the Tempra screws, but blade width is 0.359" which is much wider than the hex shank and won't fit in the Tempra's screw sheath. Nevertheless, I would recommend ordering one because it will likely be useful in your circuit breaker or disconnect screws. You can find a "14F-16R" slotted insert on Amazon but I found better prices at McMaster-Carr and more selection (I went with a 2" long power driver bit so it's less likely to fall out and get lost). McMaster is weird in that they charge exactly what it costs to ship but they don't know what it will cost till AFTER you place your order, but most reviews say their shipping is always fair. I paid ~$5 to ship four blades and got them two days after I ordered. The thickest blade you can get that will still fit in the Tempra's 0.25" sheath is a "6F-8R" slotted insert which has a blade width of 0.25" and thickness of 0.040" (1.016mm). The largest bit I was able to find in the local hardware store has "8-10" written on its shank which I confirmed means it's "8F-10R" size, but for some reason its width is just under 0.25" instead of the 0.281" width that "8F-10R" is supposed to be. Its blade thickness is very slightly over 1mm but my ruler can't distinguish between the 1.016mm thickness of a 6F-8R or the 1.0668mm thickness of a 8F-10R. Its 0.25" shank barely fits in the Tempra screw sheath and it was able to successfully tighten the screws to 36 lb-in, making sure to push the blade hard against the screw. I later ordered a true "8F-10R" from McMaster-Carr for use in the future and it measures 0.281" (9/32") as it's supposed to and it won't fit in the Tempra's sheaths. So, I recommend you go to a local store and find a bit of 1/4" width and blade thickness around 1mm and ignore whatever size is stamped on it. Also make sure the 1/4" diameter round part of the shaft is at least 7/16" long from the very tip of the blade to where the roundless ends or it won't reach deep enough. If you want to order a bit online, get the "6F-8R" size. Don't worry if the picture of what you're ordering doesn't match what you expect since all stores seem to use a generic picture - I couldn't find any stores that showed pictures of the actual bit you were buying. It would really be nice if Stiebel used screws with heads that were better standardized and wouldn't strip like torx, square, etc. Here's another easy mistake: I noticed a lot of the neutral/ground wires that were screwed into the neutral bar on my load center (which has no separate ground bar) were doubled, two wires to a screw hole. With only one hole available that was easy to reach, I put both ground wires for the water heater into one hole. After I finally found an online copy of the manual for my load center, it said you could put at most two wires in each screw hole but only gauge 12 to 14. I measured the gauge of the ground wire in the 8-2 cable for the heater and it seems to be gauge 10 or maybe 11 (unlikely). Either way, too big to put two in one hole, so I had to double some smaller-gauge wires from other circuits. Also, it said to torque those neutral-bar screws to 18-22 lb-in for 14 to 10 gauge. A 3/4 inch "conduit nipple" or "conduit bushing" must be installed in the knockout holes the cable feeds through in each disconnect and in the breaker box (officially called a "load center") to protect the cable from the sharp edges of each hole. Many people don't realize the bushing is required so it's something electrical inspectors look for. Note that 3/4" is the diameter of the hole the wires pass through in the bushing but the knockout hole in the load center the bushing fits into must be about 1 1/8" in diameter - don't use too small a knockout hole. Unfortunately the bottom of my load center is not accessible to install the locknut for the usual metal nipple ( Halex 90702 3/4-Inch Conduit Chase Nipple plus Bridgeport 142 3/4-Inch Steel PVC Sealing Locknut, 10-Pack - but usually cheaper to buy at a hardware store), so I bought a rubber grommet labeled for use as a conduit bushing. But after I had the circuit breaker and wire all installed, when I pulled down on the cable passing through the rubber grommet, it pulled the whole grommet through the hole! So I had to replace it with a snap-in bushing. I couldn't find snap-in bushings at 3 different hardware stores, so I had to order Arlington 4401-35 3/4-Inch Snap-In Conduit Bushings, 35-Pack which of course are only available in packs of 35. Ugh. Maybe I should have tried ebay. If you need to install a plastic bushing, I recommend using something like a Dremel grinding bit to grind out the tabs holding the conduit knockout in place until you can get the knockout out easily. Pounding or prying a knockout out normally often leaves the metal significantly bent and distorted and that can force a plastic bushing to bend to match the metal and I worry the distortion could break the plastic over time. The 8-2 wire (2 strands of 8 gauge wire plus grounding wire which appears to be 10 gauge) I got at Lowes was black and white instead of black and red. Since white normally means neutral, it's common electrician practice to mark the ends of the white cables with black tape to indicate it's live instead of neutral. If you have the option, get black and red wire instead. Two other things I learned first hand: It's too easy to set your multi-meter wrong or use it wrong so it doesn't tell you there is current in a wire you thought was safe, and neutral (white) wires can shock you, despite what the site I had read through about doing electrical work seemed to imply. The reason white wires can shock you is that the neutrals of different circuits are often connected together so even if the circuit you're working with it turned off at the breaker, if something on another circuit with a connected neutral is turned on, your neutral will have current passing through it. So I highly recommend buying a single-button "contactless" AC volt tester and push it into every socket of an outlet you're removing or run it near every wire you're working with. You can also use those contactless testers to trace along wires in walls which is pretty useful (turn on something connected to that wire or it probably won't have the range to detect the wire through the plasterboard). BUT the contactless testers will sometimes produce false positives. I'm not sure why that is, but using the tester in an outlet I needed to turn off kept intermittently beeping as if it had power. I eventually found it tended to beep when I had a particular light on another outlet turned on. I plugged a light into the outlet to verify it would not light up and I used my volt meter to find it had less than 1 volt of measurable voltage in it before I decided it was safe. The reason I was removing an outlet was so I could use it as a portal to pull my cable down. I had to cut the nails holding the outlet box to the stud and then use screws to screw it back to the stud from inside the box when I was done. Doing so can be tricky because the screws going in at an angle often try to pull the box against the stud at an angle so your outlet ends up tilted a bit. To try to avoid that, get your screws as close to the middle of the box as possible (middle in relation to the front and back of the box) even though that means installing the screws at a sharper angle. The hardest part of my install was drilling a hole for the wiring. I figured it would be as simple as drilling through one or two 2x4s between the top and bottom floor but it turned out I was actually drilling through 18.5" of wood that included a huge beam supporting one side of the parking deck. It took a day and a half to drill because I kept having to go out and buy more tools including Milwaukee 49-22-8510 Right Angle Drill Attachment Kit ($64 at the local hardware store - I broke a $7 6-inch flexible drill shaft in the first inch), a 6" then 12" extension, and new drill bits of various sizes. It turned out I was using a dull drill bit for the first half day although I only remember using that bit on one or two short holes in the past so I don't know why it was dull. I was also slowed down because I kept taking the drill out to put an endoscopic camera in the hole and see what I was drilling into. I kept thinking I must be drilling into a vertical support because the hole was so deep but the grain of the wood was not oriented like a vertical. I also saw that the hole for a nearby set of cables was curved to intersect the hole I was drilling, so I had to drill smaller and expand the hole slowly to make sure I wasn't going to scrape the sheathing on those cables. I'm sure an experienced electrician would have done this in some much safer way, probably at a greater distance from other sets of cables and probably using a 72 inch flexible drill bit that wasn't such a pain to get in and out. I would have switched to a 72 inch bit myself except the hole I'd started was blocked above by other cables stapled to the beam so there was no room for a long spinning drill bit. The extensions I was using kept jamming which made it quite a chore to get the drill bit out each time I wanted to look at my progress. I would recommend buying an extension that connects with two hex-headed screws instead of the collar you pull back to release the bit as the screws would be less likely to jam. I also had to buy plastic tubing of the correct diameter to vacuum out the hole to see my progress. If you have an air compressor that would probably work better. Once I got that 3/4" hole drilled the cable wasn't too hard to drop straight down to the buildup (note that I later found that a 1" hole makes things much easier if you aren't worried about weakening an important support beam with a larger hole). Wiring in the load center was kind of a pain and if you don't have the correct pliers (with flat blades and rounded edges, preferably nylon) you will scratch your wires up trying to bend them into nice parallel lines and make it obvious it wasn't a professional job. On my first try, I ended up connecting the wires wrong to the circuit breaker because I forgot it was labeled as having its two closest arms as one circuit and its two farthest apart arms as the other circuit. Instead, I wired it as if the top two arms were one circuit and the bottom two were another circuit. So when I turned on the breaker the heater didn't turn on. Luckily this didn't seem to damage it and I was able to correct the breaker wiring and get the heater working. I also had a problem getting the circuit breaker into the box because the metal that crimps onto the spades of the bus bar was too tight. I ended up using a piece of wood against the right edge of the breaker and hit it with a rubber mallet to get it on. No idea if that's normal or if there's a better way. I've removed 20 amp breakers in the box and slipped them back on with no trouble, but maybe they aren't designed to clamp so tightly since they aren't carrying so many amps. I recommend flexible stainless steel hoses to connect to the heater (not braided stainless over rubber but solid, corrugated stainless). Unlike flexible copper, stainless steel can be bent back and forth a lot without breaking/leaking, and you're going to have to bend the hoses to disconnect the heater once a year to run vinegar through it to clean out lime/scale deposits. You also have to disconnect the cold water and inspect the grit filter periodically. If you're on well water or any other water source with a lot of debris in it, I've read the filter may need to be cleaned weekly! The manual doesn't say anything about cleaning with vinegar but many sites I've read say cleaning it once a year will prolong the life of the heater a lot. If you have hard water (11 grains or higher), you should clean 3 times a year or install an expensive water softener. Unfortunately, I've read that water softeners will replace calcium and lime with salts that can increase the rate of corrosion in pipes and/or the tankless heater (not sure if that applies to copper pipes). The manual does mention the warranty does not cover damage due to hard water and of course that's the main thing that's going to damage this style of heater. Note that the Tempra has 3/4" MIP (Male Iron Pipe) aka MPT (Male Pipe Thread) fittings (the fittings are brass but all types of standardized 3/4" metal plumbing pipes use MIP standard threading). These are easy to confuse with 3/4" MHT (Male Hose Thread) used in garden hoses and washing machine hoses but the two types will not screw together more then about one turn. I was able to install the heater above the washing machine faucets but I needed a brass Y splitter with FHT (Female Hose Thread) on one end and MHT on the other two ends. Then an adapter with FHT on one end and MPT on the other end let me connect the corrugated stainless pipe to it. FHT ends always have a rubber washer in them and those washers are easy to find online, but those washers don't fit in the FPT ends. Sometimes FPT ends (like in the corrugated stainless pipes) will come with washers, but pipe threaded fittings are designed to also be water tight when wrapped with about 4 layers of plumbers tape. I also researched using "sharkbite" connectors which are easier to attach than pipe thread fittings but require a special tool to remove. These fittings have a rubber washer inside that provides the actual water tight seal so they won't last any longer than a threaded fitting with a washer inside. They're fine if you have a bare pipe to connect to with no threads, just make sure to smooth the end of the pipe carefully to avoid damaging the washer and don't expect the connection to last forever (definitely don't put sharkbite connectors behind walls like some people have based on their marketing hype). If you're wondering what size pipes you have, do some research online because 3/4" pipes don't actually measure 3/4" in most cases, depending on pipe type and thickness of pipe wall. Sadly, a few days after I found the temperature in the buildup where the heater was installed had gotten to 44 degrees. We're not yet quite in winter yet, and I didn't want to have to keep draining the heater every time it might get too cold, so I decided to move the whole thing up into the laundry room. That required buying some fiberglass cable "fish sticks" and cutting more holes in the wall than I thought should be required as I kept running into blockages the sticks wouldn't push past. I also discovered that if I had drilled about an inch closer to the drywall side of the wall (where the other cables had been drilled) I would have avoided drilling into the beam supporting the parking deck and instead would have passed the cable through an extra space added along one wall of the laundry room ceiling. So I basically weakened the parking deck support beam by drilling through it for no reason. Not cool. With the cables going to the laundry room, they had to turn 90 degrees twice instead of going straight down to the buildup. I'm wondering if an electrician would have just added an external conduit pipe instead of running the wire through the ceiling/wall, because doing ceiling/wall took way too long. I had duct taped the two romex cables together thinking that would avoid problems like one cable getting twisted and the twist not fitting through holes I'd drilled, but the duct tape ended up catching and bunching up when I tried to pull the cable out of the buildup and so I had to pull it back into the buildup and remove the duct tape. I left just the tip of the cable taped together and used conduit lubricant on that section and didn't have a problem passing it through the first 3/4" hole on my path, but for some reason it jammed halfway through the second 3/4" hole to the point I hurt my wrist trying to pull it back out. I ended up untaping the two cables, drilling the hole to 1", and pushing each cable through the hole instead of pulling it. Pushing/pulling one cable at a time was remarkably easier than pushing both through at the same time, so if you can make larger holes and run each cable separately, I highly recommend it. In my case, there was a huge space behind the wall after the second hole and the cables just drooped down into that space till I could reach them with a hook and pull them back to a hole I'd cut in the wall behind where the disconnects would mount. But if you had to pull each cable separately with a rope or fish tape, the usual method of pulling a cable is to fold it in half (doubling its thickness) around your hook and tape the hooks together. With the doubled thickness, running the second wire would be as thick as running three wires, so I'm not sure if a 1" hole would be big enough (although it probably would be). Anyway, as I said at the start, there are a lot of details that can really make the installation difficult and slow (and risky) if you're learning as you go. THE HEATER ITSELF: You should do your research well before you go with this kind of heater. We replaced a leaking natural-gas tanked heater with it, but I expect the tankless electric to cost two to three times as much (which means 12 to 18 dollars a month instead of 6). The reason we're willing to pay more in the short term is that we plan to install a solar system within a few years and I didn't want to throw away a relatively-new gas hot water heater. In the long term, gas prices are predicted to go higher than electric, but who knows when that will be (probably depends how many communities/ecosystems need to be destroyed by fraking before they ban it). In warmer climates, or if you use a lot of hot water (which we don't) then a large, hybrid heat pump-electric heater is a better choice, or a solar hot water heating panel on the room. Unfortunately the hybrid heaters cost $1200-$2500 (with the $1200 one being so small that it will often have to fall back on electric to keep up with moderate usage) and I couldn't justify the expense when we use little hot water and live in a cooler climate where the energy savings of heating water with coldish air from our basement are hard to calculate and ongoing maintenance is hard to estimate because the technology is so new (it's basically an air conditioner on top of an electric heater and air conditioners strike me as high maintenance). Solar hot water heating has similar problems: huge initial investment with little hot water used and excess just sits in the tank (with a solar array, excess energy is sold back to the grid), and higher cost of panels that aren't damaged by freezing. I went with the Stiebel Eltron over the EcoSmart because German engineering is usually superior, but I do worry it only has a 3-year warranty instead of a lifetime warranty like the EcoSmart. On the other hand, one Amazon review of the EcoSmart 11 Kw said EcoSmart wouldn't honor their warranty when the heater failed after only a year. A commenter mentions there are Better Business Bureau complaints about EcoSmart honoring their warranty (I didn't verify that). I did read a couple people on another site say some of the heating elements on the Stiebel Tempra (not the Tempra Plus) failed in a year or two, but the Tempra plus is supposed to be redesigned. Also, EcoSmart is a relatively new company (which I've read rumors is run by the same people who used to make a different line of tankless heaters that didn't last very long) and they might not even be around in a few years (another tankless company with a similar name recently went out of business). The EcoSmart uses thin heating tubes while the Tempra uses thick tubes that look almost like little hot water heater tanks with four heating elements in each tank. I'm guessing that the larger heating tubes will prevent lime scale from shorting elements to each other or to the sides of the tank, though scale will still lower the efficiency of the elements. On the other hand, the heating elements in the Tempra don't look possible to replace so if there are problems it will probably be an expensive repair. I've read claims that EcoSmart uses replaceable "off he shelf" heating elements but I wasn't able to confirm that. I definitely stayed away from cheaper tankless as various reviewers have reported failures as serious as them turning on with no water flow and with no safety heat shutoff, thus causing pex pipes to swell with boiling water. We have a low-flow shower head with a little tab on it that you can flip to slow the water to a dribble while you soap up. That was great with a standard water heater since using a tab instead of turning the water off prevented the need to adjust the hot/cold valves to get the correct temperature again. However, when we use the tab with the Tempra, the heater considers the water to have been turned off and when you flip the tab to turn the water on again, we get about 18 seconds of hot water followed by 18 seconds of cold, then it's hot again. BUT we later realized that we could just turn the water off instead of using the tab. Since you always use the Tempra at full hot, there's no adjustment of hot/cold when you turn the water back on. Since no water has been dribbling and the Tempra turns on almost instantly, all you get is a brief period of slightly less warm water and then it's fully warm again. The same thing works when rinsing dishes in the sink. Like some other reviewers mentioned, I noticed that when I turn a faucet on full force, the lights do dim a bit. I've also noticed the pitch of the bathroom heater and the refrigerator change when the Tempra is running. I would think that's not the fault of the heater but something to do with how the house is wired. I've noticed the lights also dim a bit when the dryer turns on and it's a gas dryer so I wouldn't think it would use a lot of electricity - perhaps it takes a lot to turn the drum. The dimming problem is odd since our house seems to have pretty good wiring from 1985 with 20 amp circuits on all plugs and 15 amp circuits for the lights. Temperature outside was recently between 26-45F for a couple weeks straight and the Tempra 15 had no trouble keeping the water at 105F for our low-flow shower. I imagine it would still work even in much lower temperatures since ground water temperature doesn't vary as much as surface temperature. It's supposed to automatically adjust to keep the temperature constant but I do sometimes notice variations. Not uncomfortable or very significant variations, but just enough to notice. I know water can start to feel cooler as you get used to it, but I've felt the temperature suddenly increase a bit on an area of skin constantly exposed to the stream. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on November 21, 2012 by Dragon
    • AWSOME UNITS. BUT BEWARE of a FEW SIMPLE THINGS to CONSIDER before buying
Style: Tempra 24 Plus (Discontinued Model)
Obviously the waive of the future is tank less water heaters. GAS or ELECTRIC. They both seem to be very energy efficient. But not economically efficient. This is due to their initial expense. Important to realize, after the initial install, when it comes time to replace the old unit the next time won’t be as bad as everything is already in place that you will need. For starters, since this unit is electric, I can just about guarantee even if your old unit was an electric 240 or 208 volt tank, that you do not have the wiring in place for one of these. This particular unit requires TWO, 240 volt (or 208 volt if you're 3 phase) two pole 60 amp circuits with a minimum of 6 AWG wire. When operating at full power at 120 degrees Fahrenheit, I measured up to 44 amperes with my Fluke clamp meter on each line. That's a total of 88 amperes at the panel or over 21,000 watts (Yes that's OVER TWENTY-ONE THOUSAND WATTS). This thing requires a minimum of a 200 amp load center to be installed at the property. The largest unit from this manufacturer’s line-up requires THREE of these same circuits and a 300 amp load center. So as you can see, if you’re not an electrician or at the very least well versed in the electrical field, the average home do it yourselfer is not going to be able to install one of these on his own. Therefore the cost, as I said before is not economical. The gas ones have similar issues in that they may require larger gas lines for volume than the average home is built with. Again, just things to consider. Lastly, don't take the writing on the box for how many simultaneous showers this thing will be able to deliver as gospel. That greatly depends upon water flow and ground temperatures. It actually does say that on the box in small print. During the summer in warmer southern climates, you'll find the water where you normally set your shower is way too hot. During the winter you may find that you have to turn the handle all the way up just to keep the water warm. (Notice I didn't say HOT) Now, add another simultaneous shower, and it may not be able to keep up. Again, just things to consider. My recommendation, buy bigger than you think you’re going to need. No need to go overboard, just figure what you think you’re going to need, and go one size up. Once your service is upgraded to support one of these, the actual installation of a tank less water heater is a breeze. Very easy. Last thing, for those of you doing the math, yes this things sucks electricity like you wouldn't believe. Go out and look at you’re meter when it’s on. Your AC won't make your meter spin like that. In lieu of all of this you must come to realize that this thing is only doing that when you’re using maximum hot water. In other words, if you're just running the hot water faucet at the kitchen sink, its not running at maximum power. If every hot water faucet is on in the house or multiple showers are running (especially if the ground temperature is low) then you probably are running maximum power, or close to it. However, if you're not running any hot water at all, it’s idle. There is no tank to keep hot, it doesn't cycle on and off throughout the day when no one’s home. It only runs when a hot water faucet is opened. For that reason, if you have kids in the house, be sure they shut that water off at the sink; or you’ll be unpleasantly surprised on bill day. This unit in particular is a very good and dependable unit. It has stood the test of time for me and I have already bought and installed another one at an alternate location. Have fun....... ... show more
Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on February 4, 2019 by Allen

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