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Availability:
In Stock.
Arrives
Saturday, Oct 31
At a glance
- Condition
- New
- Size
- 33-in Wheel Base
- Model
- CRE2-33
- Weight
- 1 lb
- Exterior
- Smooth
Features 5
- Smoother towing than conventional leaf springs.Fit Type: Universal Fit
- Provides 3" of suspension travel
- Protects from damaging road shock
- Easy bolt-on installation
- Tested and rated for up to 8K miles
Description
When it comes to suspension performance, it’s all about suspension travel. Increased travel means smoother towing, improved towability and better protection from damaging road shock. The MORryde CRE3000 provides over 3” of suspension travel. At the heart of this suspension system is a compressed rubber insert along with a unique travel slot to help your unit smoothly glide over today's rough roads. The CRE3000 also provides added durability and reduced frame stress. It has been tested and rated for use with up to 8K axles; it is built to last! Installation is simple and straightforward and can be done by a dealer, service center or any do-it-yourselfer.Replaces your existing steel leaf spring equalizer making it easy to install
Specs 8
| Manufacturer | Morryde |
|---|---|
| Brand | MORryde |
| Model | CRE2-33 |
| Item Weight | 1 pounds |
| Item model number | CRE2-33 |
| Exterior | Smooth |
| Manufacturer Part Number | CRE2-33 |
| OEM Part Number | CRE2-33 |
No specs match.
Frequently asked questions
If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is:
Saturday, Oct 31
Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
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Top Amazon Reviews
Glad I did it
Size: 33-Inch Wheel Base
In short, I bought this. Installed it myself. Survived the experience. Glad I did it. Want a ridiculous amount of detail? Keep reading. PLEASE NOTE: Below I refer to parts that are part of MORryde’s shackle kit and NOT with the CRE3000 alone. Don’t think you’ll be able to do everything I describe below with only the CRE3000. On impulse I decided to upgrade the suspension on my 2006 26' travel trailer. Myself. In my driveway. I've never done anything like this before, but how hard could it be? So without revealing to my wife my grand plan to turn our driveway into an RV maintenance yard, I ordered the CRE3000 and (since I'd be removing the wheels and rusty bolts anyway), I decided to upgrade the shackles as well with the MORryde heavy duty shackle kit. I think it's called "wet" because you can lubricate it. ( MORryde UO12-016 Heavy Duty Shackle Upgrade Kit, CRE3000 / Stock / Equaflex 2.25" Shackles - Tandem Axle. Additional stuff purchased, using this project as an excuse, included: A 2 ton floor jack with a 23+ inch lift (enough range to lift my trailer at the frame). A grease gun (for the zerk fittings on all the new bolts GreaseTek Premium Pistol Grip Grease Gun with 18" Hose and Extension Pipe). A 24" breaker bar (rusty bolts are fun!). A can of B'laster (B'laster 16-PB Penetrating Catalyst - 11-Ounces. A set of impact sockets for my air powered impact gun. Two tall jack stands (tall enough to support the frame jacked up). Some work gloves. Additional stuff I used that I already had on hand: An air compressor. Air powered impact gun (pretty excited about my 2nd opportunity to use it in 10 years). A second, much smaller floor jack (I didn't expect to use this, but it was VERY handy to have - details below). A creeper/crawler borrowed from a neighbor. Two small jackstands for supporting the disconnected axles. A couple wrenches of appropriate size for my bolts. A rubber mallet. A hammer. A punch. I planned to tackle the project with my 13 year old able assistant on a Saturday afternoon. So starting Thursday, I began soaking the eleven year old bolts/nuts (7 on each side of the trailer) with B'laster hoping to make them easier to remove after a couple days of soaking. Saturday afternoon I hauled the trailer out to the driveway, jacked it up, placed the two tall jackstands to support the trailer, and removed the two wheels (on one side), revealing the entire suspension. Then, thinking it might take a some pressure off the leaf spring and bolts, I lifted each axle just a little bit and supported them with small jackstands. Now it's time to remove those rusty old bolts. So the bolts faced away from me. That is, they were inserted with the head toward the outside and the nuts on the inside (under the trailer). No problem. I put a wrench on the backside to hold the nut in place, and then used my air-wrench to turn the head. Or tried to. Didn't budge the tiniest bit. Then I hung my 13 yr old off the end of the breaker bar. Then I hung myself off the end of the breaker bar. Didn't budge the tiniest bit. More P'blaster, a little banging with a hammer to try and free the frozen bolts. No joy with any of the 7 bolts. I was extremely frustrated and had to really bite my tongue to avoid language my assistant shouldn't hear. Until one bolt finally gave just a little bit. At this point, some of you more knowledgeable folks already know my mistake. It turns out the bolts themselves (on my trailer) aren't intended to turn. Near the head of the bolt is a small area of grooves that locks the bolt in place. The nut has to be removed from the stationary bolt. At least until the nut backs off far enough that the bolt can be tapped out past the grooves and then turns as you might expect. So learn from my mistake - apply pressure to the nuts, not the bolts. I wish I had learned this lesson an easier way, say by looking at the brand new replacement bolts, seeing the grooves and realizing their obvious purpose. But that's not my style. Plus it was a lesson in perseverance for my assistant. If at first you don't succeed, cuss, hit it with a hammer, nearly give up, and then get lucky. Anyway, after the bolt design revelation things started moving much faster. Between the air-gun and breaker bar all the nuts came free without too much difficulty. The creeper and small size of my assistant (compared to me) was invaluable in removing the nuts under the trailer. Thank goodness for sturdy jackstands and his mom staying in the house. Then we used a punch to knock the bolts out, freeing the leaf springs and removing the triangular center hanger. More use of the punch to push the worn OEM plastic bushings out of all the bolt holes. Now disassembly is complete. Reassembly was mostly straightforward. Insert the shiny brass bushings (from the shackle kit) into all the bolt holes and gently tap in with rubber mallet. Hang the new CRE3000 in the center and drive in the center bolt, put the nut on the back, but not tight yet. Reattach the leaf springs to the left & right of the CRE3000 using the new shackles and bolts from the kit. One tip - on the center bolt (that hangs the CRE) the zerk fitting in the head of the new bolt faces outward toward you. On ALL other bolts, the zerk fittings face inward, under the trailer. That's supposed to make it easier to reach and lube when the tires are on. So unlike the original bolts, all the nuts except the center bolt will now be on the outside rather than inside. That'll be handy in the future when I forget the lesson learned above. The left & right ends of the leaf springs that attach to the front & rear frame hangers can be a little tricky to get aligned so the bolts will go through. The holes will be too high, too low, or crooked. This is where I used my small floor jack to push up on the end of a spring raise it, or push down on the spring to lower it. To push down on the spring, I set the jack on TOP of the spring and pumped it up until the jack foot hit the frame above. Than as I continued to pump, the jack pushed the spring down aligning the holes. It took a bit of fiddling, including with the axle jack stand, to get the leaf spring ends reconnected, but in the end it wasn't really hard. The last step was to tighten all the nuts and lubricate the 7 bolts with the new grease gun. Then we we replaced the tires and we were done. With one side. It had taken us about 4 1/2 -5 hours and daylight was running out. We finished the job the next day and, with the lessons learned, it took only about 2 1/2 hours to finish the second side. So roughly seven hours total including the time penalty for stupidity. We went for a test drive and I immediately noticed two things. First, the tires/axles didn't immediately fall off. That was a relief. My mind had been full of "what ifs" and "what did I forget?" and "where did that extra bolt come from?" (just kidding). The second thing was how QUIET the trailer was. I had gotten used to lots of squeaks and squeals over speed bumps and maneuvering at low speed, but now the trailer is whisper quiet in all circumstances and seems to float along behind the truck rather than bounce. I'm very pleased with the end result and glad I chose to do it as a DIY. It was actually a very satisfying project to complete with my son.
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Reviewed in the United States on March 7, 2017 by Mathew K Raikes
Great upgrade. We'll worth the effort
Size: 33-Inch Wheel Base
Definitely a great upgrade from stock trailer equalizers. I've noticed a notable improvement in ride quality while towing. Installation was way easier than anticipated. I also upgraded the shackles and replaced my leaf springs while I was at it. Highly recommend replacing the shackles at the same time.
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Reviewed in the United States on August 26, 2026 by Eric Borroel
Worthy upgrade
Size: 33-Inch Wheel Base
Worthwhile upgrade. Reduces the jostling of everything in my trailer. Also makes towing a bit smoother when hitting rougher roads
Reviewed in the United States on September 18, 2026 by Bryan
Great suspension system, but difficult to install.
Size: 35-Inch Wheel Base
The old suspension system on my 2022 Grand Design MLE22 camper was already falling apart after about 10000 miles of driving. It would squeak and pop and make all kinds of noises, esp when backing into a camp site. So I decided to buy this new system and install them myself on my driveway. Everything worked and installed as expected. Its not easy, but if you are handy with tools, don't shy away from this, you can do it. You will need a floor jack and jack stands and other tools. After I installed this, all the noises went away, and this works great. And I'm glad I did it since the old suspension parts we significantly worn and would have failed in 10000 more miles. Very dangerous.
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Reviewed in the United States on September 8, 2026 by Mike K
Excellent product for the money
Size: 33-Inch Wheel Base
Why did you pick this product vs others?: I installed the MORryde CRE2-33 CRE3000 Suspension System on my tandem-axle trailer and the difference was immediate. It smoothed out rough roads and significantly reduced the bucking I used to feel, especially on uneven pavement. The 3 inches of travel made towing more comfortable and my trailer now tracks straighter and quieter. Installation was straightforward and the bronze bushings made greasing simple. Everything feels more stable and secure, and even my dishes stayed in place. This is hands-down one of the best upgrades I've made for safer and smoother towing. Five stars from me.
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Reviewed in the United States on July 8, 2025 by Mozurry
Great product
Size: 33-Inch Wheel Base
I did an axle flip and decided to go all the way and rebuild my suspension on my 20 year old rv. These worked nice. They did improve the ride. I didn’t have a huge issue with stuff moving before but it’s even better now. I can leave stuff out and it stays there. I’m a 67 year old retired truck driver so I don’t drive that hard so that helps too. Would definitely do it again.
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Reviewed in the United States on July 10, 2026 by Ken
Drastically improved my RV suspension
Size: 33-Inch Wheel Base
My 5th wheel needed a suspension upgrade because the springs were worn out. It was riding unlevel behind my truck and did not tow real well. I bought these equalizers with the greasable shackle kit. I also replaced the springs with 2600 lb springs from Northern Tool. I must say it made a drastic improvement. It raised my RV about 2”, it tows level, the springs aren’t sacked out, I don’t have to worry about the tires hitting the bottom of the RV. It was pretty straightforward to install, if mechanically inclined, just unbolt and bolt the new parts in. It took me a couple hours to complete. I like that the shackles are greasable, and much thicker than the original ones.
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Reviewed in the United States on July 27, 2026 by Brian F.
Turns "Rattle Trap Roadshow" Into "Glide of the Gods"
Size: 35-Inch Wheel Base
Before the MORryde CRE3000, every pothole felt like my RV was auditioning for a demolition derby. Cups clanged, cabinets shook, and I swear my axles used to whisper, “Please, no more.” Then I installed this bad boy—and hallelujah, the ride smoothed out like warm butter on a pancake. This suspension upgrade eats up road shock like it skipped breakfast. My tandem axle trailer used to bounce like a caffeinated goat over every crack. Now? It floats. I don’t feel every bump. My coffee stays in the mug. My spouse is less mad at me for “driving like you’re in an action movie.” Installation took some elbow grease (and maybe a few colorful words), but once it was on—pure trailer bliss. If your current suspension feels like medieval torture for your gear, this is your golden ticket. Final verdict: Worth every penny. Your axles will thank you. Your dishes will survive. And your kidneys? Well, they’ll stop threatening to quit every time you hit a speed bump.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 11, 2025 by Andre A.