Microswiss All Metal Hotend Kit (for CR-10s PRO/CR-10 Max/Ender 3 V2 Neo) - Drop in Upgrade - Made in USA
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Availability:
In Stock.
Arrives
Tuesday, Aug 4
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Style: For CR-10s PRO/CR-10 Max/Ender 3 V2 Neo
Features
- This is a drop in All Metal Conversion kit for the CR-10s Pro printers. It requires absolutely zero modification to your printer to install.
- Our uniquely designed cooling block eliminates need for a thermal tube. By not having a separate thermal tube inside the cooling block, it allows for faster heat dissipation.
- The thermal heat break is made from Grade 5 Titanium Alloy to provide excellent thermal isolation between the heater and the cooling block. Titanium is extremely strong material and offers almost 3x lower thermal conductivity than stainless steel, creating more defined meltzone.
- Fits: CR-10s Pro, CR-10s Pro V2, CR-10 Max
Features
- Fits: CR-10S Pro / CR-10 Max
- Orifice size: .4mm
- Kit Includes: Aluminum Cooling Block, Grade 5 Titanium Heat Break, Aluminum Heater Block, Brass Plated Wear Resistant MK8 .4mm Nozzle, Silicone Sock, Hardware kit
- This is a Drop in All Metal Conversion Kit for CR-10s PRO and CR-10 Max printers
- Made in USA by Micro Swiss
Description
Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit for Creality CR-10s PRO: This is a drop in All Metal Conversion kit for the CR-10s Pro printers. It requires absolutely zero modification to your printer to install. Our uniquely designed cooling block eliminates need for a thermal tube. By not having a separate thermal tube inside the cooling block, it allows for faster heat dissipation. The thermal heat break is made from Grade 5 Titanium Alloy to provide excellent thermal isolation between the heater and the cooling block. Titanium is extremely strong material and offers almost 3x lower thermal conductivity than stainless steel, creating more defined meltzone. Read more Fits: Creality CR-10s ProCreality CR-10 Max Read more What's in the box: Aluminum Cooling BlockGrade 5 Titanium Heat BreakAluminum Heater BlockBrass Plated Wear Resistant MK8 .4mm NozzleSilicone SockHardware kit Read more Micro Swiss MK8 Brass Plated .4mm Nozzle Micro Swiss MK8 Brass Plated .6mm Nozzle Micro Swiss MK8 Brass Plated .8mm Nozzle Micro Swiss MK8 A2 Plated .4mm Nozzle Micro Swiss MK8 A2 Plated .6mm Nozzle Micro Swiss MK8 A2 Plated .8mm Nozzle Base Material Brass Brass Brass A2 Hardened Tool Steel A2 Hardened Tool Steel A2 Hardened Tool Steel Plated ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓
Product Dimensions: 3.54 x 2.56 x 1.38 inches; 2.12 Ounces
Item Weight: 2.12 ounces
Manufacturer: Micro Swiss LLC
Item model number: M2591-04
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer: No
Date First Available: November 4, 2016
Brand: Micro-Swiss
Material: metall
Voltage: 24 Volts
Unit Count: 1.0 Count
Manufacturer: Micro Swiss
Product Dimensions: 3.54 x 2.56 x 1.38 inches
Item Weight: 1.76 ounces
Manufacturer: Micro Swiss
Item model number: M2591-04
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer: No
Date First Available: November 4, 2016
Frequently asked questions
If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is:
Tuesday, Aug 4
Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
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Similar Products
Top Amazon Reviews
Style: For CR-10s PRO/CR-10 Max/Ender 3 V2 Neo
After using this Microswiss hot end on my CR10S Pro, and dealing with issues from my other printer running a V6, I feel that I now see the benefit of this design over the V6. The heatbreak on the MicroSwiss is much shorter and since the heatsink "dips" into the heatbreak it is even shorter still. I have never had heat creep with this hot end yet and I have run PLA, PETG and ABS. This short heatbreak seems to really help keep heat creep at bay, whereas the V6 with an all metal heattube which I also have, tends to require more attention to avoid clogs and it seems to require more force to extrude. I suspect the longer steel heatbreak on my V6 is holding and migrating the heat causing the melt area to extend higher up the tube, though I don't find it above where the heat sink starts. In any case I prefer the microswiss over the V6 now hands down. I have also had to contact their customer service on an issue and found they are excellent and get back quickly. As an aside, I think the ultimate direct drive would be a MicroSwiss heat tube + block mated to a compact extruder/hotend like the aero or hemera. I'd buy one of those today if such a thing existed. 1.5yr update - the MicroSwiss is still going strong and it's been almost problem free. Clogs are pretty well a thing of the past though they can still happen. When the filament gets stuck it's usually because I didn't remove it correctly. The way I remove the filament is to heat the nozzle to about 20°C below the operating temp and then push it in a bit before pulling the filament out. If that doesn't work then I just heat it to operating temp and push it so some filament is extruded, then let it cool down about 20°C and then pull the filament out. No issues with clogs that way, and probably the best upgrade I've done on my CR10S Pro (v1). Original Review: I have been running this hot end on my CR10S Pro for the past couple months, and have had no major issues with clogs due to heat creep. Installation went off without a hitch in about 10 minutes, just have to be careful not to strip out the grub screw holes in the aluminum heat sink, and tighten things when it is hot (this is the same for any hot end). I picked this up because I wanted to print with higher temps and did not like having PTFE in the hot end when running above 240C. I don't notice any significant difference in print quality, but it has been reliable and looks well machined. I suspect that the nozzles are better quality though, and would probably buy their plated nozzles in the future. The docs I have seen for this hot end specify that retraction should be kept under 4mm, however I have been running it at 5.2mm @ 45mm/s without any issues. I tried 4mm but there was too much fine stringing, so I feel that is too conservative and actually would force me to find something else if it really could not go higher than 4mm.
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Reviewed in the United States on November 24, 2019 by MidnightRunner
Style: For CR-10s PRO/CR-10 Max/Ender 3 V2 Neo
I don't have much to add about this product other than it does exactly what it says it will do. I needed this hotend to print higher temp material and it does a great job. The construction of the throat is much more robust and does not rely on the PTFE tube. This reduces the risk of clogging. Installation was an exact replacement and I had no problems at all on my Ender 5. It was plug and play. I did end up buying the microswiss hardened nozzle because I wanted to print carbon fiber. It has held up very well also and would suggest adding to your order. The value of the hotend I would say is in the medium range. It does perform well but being sometimes 1/4 of the price of the printer....just doesn't score well on overall value. I do support that it is made in the USA so I'm willing to take that into consideration. I would still highly suggest this hotend if you would like reliable hotend for every print.
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Reviewed in the United States on February 5, 2020 by bmwboyee
Style: For CR-10s PRO/CR-10 Max/Ender 3 V2 Neo
I was quite concerned about switching since I still do use PLA and PETG quite a bit. I thought I would have to wait until I got another printer in order to have one installed with an all metal hot end and keep the other stock for PLA and PETG, but I was quite wrong. Very happy with this product. I have gotten one or two clogs, but without the capricorn tube digging all the way through the cooling block, it is a sinch to simply pop off the tube and use some nylon filament to remove the jam with a hot pull. Again though, the jams are not happening ANYWHERE near as much as many reviews made me fear before I bought this. Only thing I do recommend is that you play with the heat settings yourself. They recommend that you increase the temp by about 5 to 10 degrees after making this switch but I found that my materials do better with 5 degrees less. They come out much cleaner and very well fused. Not sure if it's just my hot end is a bit hot, but since I did decrease the temp I have not had a clog. Also huge huge huge important part to this is the retraction. Remember to both reduce your retraction and to tinker with your retraction speed and restart distance (distance that the printer starts at after a retraction). There is no perfect setting, you just need to tinker with it a bit. It will make your life so much easier by making sure you don't end with tons of clogs and that your prints look clean and tidy without stringing.
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Reviewed in the United States on April 21, 2019 by German
Style: For CR-10s PRO/CR-10 Max/Ender 3 V2 Neo
As I have been slowly gaining more experience with 3D printing, I started hitting some snags when trying to print on glass. After a lot of trial and error, I thought I was getting close. Then, the exiting extruder clogged, impressively. I swapped out the original CR10S Pro V1 print head with this one, and it’s been working perfectly! Just as the directions indicated, it was a simple drop-in replacement. I have not had any clogging, or other issues to speak of. I am now getting very consistent prints with PLA directly on glass! This is super cool because the parts just pop off the bed as it cools. Adding this, in case anyone else is having issues with the CR10S Pro V1 and glass: After some trial and error and seeing my 1st layers being so close to the bed, nothing can be extruded too not close enough to work, I am now sure that the inductive sensor is at fault. If I warm up everything, re-home the printer prior to every print, it works well. (Hoping that the Tiny Machines 3D BL Touch Kit for Creality CR-10S Pro 3D Printers will fix this ... fingers-crossed)
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Reviewed in the United States on December 22, 2020 by Kurtis
Style: For CR-6 SE/CR-6 SE MAX
Initially the prints sucked but changing the retractions speed helps a lot! Along with the micro swiss dual extruder I changed retraction travel from 1.5 to 0.8 and my retraction speed went from 25 to 70mm. This is on the CR6 SE. Getting beautiful prints now with Polymaker ABS. Highly recommend following the instruction videos - especially important to follow the part about tightening everything while the hot end is at printing temp. Also don't forget when you change your materials in cura to adjust the travel, retraction and temps etc. Dinged a star for the cost - head seems priced pretty high and the installation was straightforward but not really "easy" per say.
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Reviewed in the United States on March 9, 2023 by PonyChonies
Style: For CR-6 SE/CR-6 SE MAX
Asset to the 3d printing community
Reviewed in the United States on May 14, 2026 by Jason Putnam
Style: For CR-10s PRO/CR-10 Max/Ender 3 V2 Neo
More issues with this hotend than the original stock hotend. Constantly jams with regular pla, the heartbreak starts leaking after a few hours of printing and covers the heat block with polymer. The heartbreak is difficult to disassemble and reassemble on the machine, so I usually end up taking it off, which results in other breakages and waste (broke a thermistor the first time, ruined a nozzle the second time). Not to mention I had to order it 3 separate times because the first 2 times I was sent the wrong hotend despite the package being labeled correctly. After less than 300 hours print time it is jammed again, this time I’m taking it off and sending it back
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Reviewed in the United States on March 11, 2025 by SecurityPro
Style: For CR-10s PRO/CR-10 Max/Ender 3 V2 Neo
This all metal hot end is very easy to install. 5 stars. Could not be happier. This requires no alteration of the software. The only difference that your printer will notice is that this hot end is 3mm shorter then the stock hot-end. On the Ender 3 this is trivial because all you have to do is re-level the bed. The entire point of this hot-end is to eventually complete the upgrades to be able to print at high temperature for Nylon and Polycabonate. If that is not your end goal you should be good with the stock hot-end. I would consider upgrading anyways. This hot end is just beautiful and it is very obvious when you see it in person that it is a high quality piece of machinery and it definitely makes my 3d printer far far sexier. This upgrade alone will NOT allow you to print at high temperatures. In addition to this you will need 1. A glass Bed: other beds like magnetic will lose their magnetism at the required higher temperatures. 2. A k Type thermocouple. If you have an Ender 3 original board you will NOT be able to have a BL Touch and The K Type thermocouple because of a lack of free pins. The K type thermocouple is required to read the higher temperatures. The original temperature sensor is a thermister but this has too high a voltage error at high temperature so a change of technology is required. The K type thermocouple will also require a daughter board (sold separately) to communicate with the Ender 3 stock control board. A new revision for the Ender 3 stock board has come around April 11th 2019 out but I am not too familiar with the changes except the upgrade to non crappy and much more silent stepper drivers. If you want the BL touch and the K type thermocouple you're going to have to upgrade to a board with more pins and memory. I suggest the MKS Type L board and don't forget to buy the stepper drivers which are removable. (list continued) 3. One Meter Capricorn Boden Tubing. The stock Boden Tubing is Teflon and it will vaporize into hazardous airborne toxins when upped to temperatures needed for Nylon and PC. 4. An Enclosure. The constant warm temperature needs to be reached while printing the high temperature materials or they will warp and not print well or have good adhesion. Also it will be helpful if the enclosure is fireproof in case there is any accident. A brief overview of the installation of this part on the Ender 3 is as follows. This does not include the K Type Thermocouple Upgrade. Brief Installation Instructions 1: Remove the two screws that are holding the two fans over the hot-end. This will expose the hot-end. 2: Unscrew the hot-end so it is off the rail. 3: Undo the screw that is holding a metal tube that is the heater. 4: undo the screw that is holding the temperature sensor. 5: The metal tube heater and temperature sensor should now slide out. 6: Put the temperature sensor and heater into the matching holes on the micro swiss hot-end. 7: Unscrew the top of the original hot-end to release the bowden tubing and then pull it out. 8: The old hot-end should now be free and should be stored for a rainy day. 9: Mount the top part of the Microswiss Hot-end the way the old one was. 10: Attach the bottom of the Microswiss Hot-end known as the heat break with the included screw. 11: Shove the Bowden Tube into the MicroSwiss Hot-end until it wont go any Farther. It'll hold with friction alone. 12: Screw on the nozzle loosely. The nozzle is hardened steel good for printing abrasive materials like nylon and glow in the dark materials. 13: Reattach the Fan Enclosure 13: Bring the microswiss up to temperature and finish tightening the hot-end once its hot. Just a bit of pressure is good. 14: Don't Forget to re-level the bed as the new nozzle is 3mm higher than the old one.
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Reviewed in the United States on April 12, 2019 by Valentina Dangerfield