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Availability:
In Stock.
Arrives
Thursday, Jul 9
Features
- FILAMENT FRIDAY E-LEVELER: This is the original Filament Friday E-Leveler that is designed, created, and featured by Chuck Hellebuyck on the Filament Friday YouTube channel
- PERFECTLY LEVEL BED: This tool will give you visual feedback to perfectly adjust the bed level on your 3D printer
- BATTERY INCLUDED: A CR2032 coin cell battery is included so that your Filament Friday E-Leveler is ready to use right out of the box
- FULLY ASSEMBLED: The Filament Friday E-Leveler is available in an assembled version
Description
Filament Friday E-Leveler 3D Printer Electronic Bed Leveling Tool • As seen on the Filament Friday YouTube channel by Chuck Hellebuyck! • The Filament Friday E-Leveler tool will give you visual feedback for adjusting the bed level knob on any 3D printer. The E-Leveler comes fully assembled and includes a coin cell battery so that you can start leveling your 3D printers bed right out of the box! This product includes online video and PDF instructions on how to use the Filament Friday E-Leveler. All instructional videos and documents can be found on the CHEP Club website. This product includes a CR2032 3V coin cell battery.
Brand: Filament Friday
Color: Green
Compatible Devices: Laptop, Smartphone
Supported File Format: STL,OBJ,GCODE
Operating System: Windows 10, macOS 10.15 Catalina, Linux, iOS 14, Android 10
Package Dimensions: 4.76 x 3.35 x 1.34 inches
Item Weight: 1.44 ounces
Manufacturer: Filament Friday
Item model number: FF-ELEVEL
Batteries: 1 CR2032 batteries required.
Date First Available: February 9, 2022
Frequently asked questions
If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is:
Thursday, Jul 9
Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
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Top Amazon Reviews
At first glance we may think this is not worth $25 but let's break down what we really get. Scan the QR code on the box and you're taken to a quick, but well produced instructional video. In the video Chuck does not push this tester on you. He even explains that you can build this yourself, if you prefer. He even says other leveling methods work just as well. Personally, I have used paper, feeler gauges, and micrometers. I prefer the simplicity of this, Go No-Go, tester and the results are great. The same QR code takes you to his included files to run the leveling squares tests. They run fast and show your results in record time. Exploring CHEP's channel on YouTube is where you find the real value. In a related video Chuck breaks down the simple g-code files and shows you how to modify them, easily, if you want to make changes or if your printer doesn't recognize certain commands. He has other leveling videos using paper, if you prefer, and another using a feeler gauge (better than that non-calibrated paper). Chuck has a huge list of videos that has helped me solve many 3D printer problems. There are also great hints, tips, and honest product reviews. He has many videos explaining Cura slicer settings. Chuck, and some of his viewers, also has spent lots of time developing and testing profiles to print much faster. He shares these profiles with us for free. I personally us one of CHEPs fast print profiles daily on my Ender 3 S1. It really works great and it saves me so print much time. Did I mention he gave it to us for FREE! All these videos are fairly short. The information is offered in a format that is very easily digestible and advertisements are minimal. Best of all CHEPs videos are kid safe and kid simple. No one is drinking, there is no foul language, and the information is explained in simple bite size pieces. So let the kids watch and learn. Back to the $25, we are not only paying for a battery, circuit board, a few cheap components, Chuck’s prototyping time, etc… No we are helping to support a really nice gentleman, who has been helping us, for years, for free. Buy one! You you will not regret it.
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Reviewed in the United States on December 5, 2022 Reviewed in the United States on December 5, 2022 by How2Tinker
Seems to work well, sometimes. Every time I used it, it would say one corner, or another is off, I would tweak it up per the instructions, and all would be level. I would try to print something, and it was garbage. I would use the tool again, and totally different readings. Very inconsistent. I have upgraded springs and aluminum adjustment wheels on all my printers. Finally gave up and did it the manual paper way (VERY annoying, but works, and is consistent). Added a CR-Touch to all of them as well, which adds more margin for error. I also chose to ditch the stupid glass build plate in favor of magnetic steel sheets. It was a lot to invest in a "cheap" printer, but it works decent enough now. If you want a printer that works, first try, EVERY time, and no bed leveling at all, get a Prusa i3 MK3S. That is my main (and first) printer. The other 7 have their uses, but Prusa is light years ahead in quality (And also price, they aren't cheap).
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Reviewed in the United States on December 17, 2023 by Rick R.
This is a simple tool that works well. Just get the light to flicker, don't go solid red. The one design flaw? The battery should be on the top as the battery is drawn to the nearest magnet if your printer is like my QIDI ifast, which has many magnets to hold the build plate rather than a single sheet of magnetic material. Also, a simple V-shaped raised area would be nice to make the alignment of the print head in the crosshairs easier. I just added a bit of blue painter's tape as the ifast's bed raises up and makes a visual confirmation quite difficult.
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Reviewed in the United States on December 2, 2022 Reviewed in the United States on December 2, 2022 by Santa's 3D Toys
Yes, it's a gadget that most can do without. No, it's not something you can pull from the box and master using the first time you level a bed. However, after a few times it saves you time - a lot of time. Tips: 1 - light pressure on the back of the board. Keep in mind when you press it down you create a variation in the bed height. Just enough pressure to get the "feet" to sit level, no more. 2 - as you adjust the wheels you also create variation in the height. Adjust, remove your hand from the wheel and see if the light remains on/off. You can create an artificial reading even with a light touch. 3 - be sure to use the cross marks on the board and put your nozzle in the middle of the X. Any deviation with the angle of the board means a faulty height reading 4 - get as close to the top of the adjustment knob screw as you can. It can be difficult to see, but the closer you are to the top of the screw the more accurate your results. Being to the side, particularly the outside, means you're trying to find height outside the normal printing area and the too far from the middle. 5 - Use the bed you print with. I found a standard magnetic bed cover gives me different adjustments than the glass bed cover. It isn't a massive difference, but enough that I have to adjust it. Your printer may not need this, but mine did. 6 - DO NOT USE the G29 command in Cura or your slicer - Even with a level bed the CR Touch reads outside the print area and I get erroneous numbers and prints I've got a CR Touch and after some trial and error my method is as follows: Auto home, Put the board and cross under the nozzle in the middle of the bed, Move the Z down, progressively smaller steps, until the light just starts to flicker, Disable your steppers, Move to each corner and adjust them until the light just flickers, Repeat the corner adjustments 2 to 4 times until all are set to just flicker without adjustment, Do a Z offset wizard and verify the default, You're done Yes, it sounds like a lot of steps that take a long time. The first couple of times it will. However, I seem to do stupid stuff that messes up my bed level (long list of mental mistakes - LOL!) so I've used it 4 times in 2 days. I'm getting pretty good at it now. The last couple of times it was less than 5 minutes, start to finish. More importantly, my bed is level - very level! Something I just couldn't get with the paper method. Is it for everyone? No. If you set your bed and it stays level for months I wouldn't think you need it. However, if you're a goofball like me and mess your bed level up regularly it's worth it's weight in gold.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 22, 2022 by delump
The idea behind this is great. A true zeroed bed will make everything better right? Yes. It will but sadly this product didn’t deliver that for me. I’m using an Ender 3 S1 pro with a Sonic Pad and I’ve certainly achieved perfect layers and bed leveling without this, but the thought of a faster leveling process really sold me. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to get this to work at all. First, it broke as I was inserting the battery. The battery would not seat properly thereafter. The quality control leaves a lot to be desired. Second, I could never change my offset to accommodate the leveler. I’m not sure if it’s the Sonic Pad or something I did but each time I tried to change the z offset higher, my printer config would become corrupt and I would have to start from scratch. In summary: if you’ve been able to achieve a leveled bed without this, why change what works? I may be kind of obsessed with getting my bed super level but I prefer to put the time in and do it the typical way. That’s what works for me. The quality control is nonexistent, mine broke in the exact same way as the others that have complained about and it was (without exaggeration) broken by me just inserting the battery. I’ll stick to the sonic pad’s leveling system, it’s been effective for me, this is a little too gimmicky for the price. You’re buying the idea of a quick way to skip to important parts of printing that you really should take your time on.
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Reviewed in the United States on March 23, 2023 Reviewed in the United States on March 23, 2023 by Mike
I *WANT* to love this E-leveler, but it's really HARD due to quality control issues. Conclusion: WHEN/IF this e-leveler works, it works WELL Read on for the gory details... Okay... So I could probably write a novel about this thing. Instead, hit the pros/cons on a list to spare everyone, then talk about my experience a little bit below. Pros -Levels the bed VERY well -Faster than paper once you have the hang of it -Much more accurate than paper -Makes your first layers rock solid -Easy to use with a little bit of practice Cons -Quality control! Quality Control! QUALITY CONTROL! -Waaay too expensive for what it is -Battery is unsecure and falls out. -button switch = easy to break -Hard to see where to line up the nozzle (at least on an Ender 3 sprite extruder) -Using the printable switch cover = asking for trouble The gossipy part Okay, so I want to give this thing 1 star, but that's unfair. The simple truth is that it works and it works WELL. *However* the craftmanship and quality control is worse than a 2 year old trying to hammer a square peg into a round hole. It started almost immediately with my first one. Out of the box, the product didn't work. The contacts on the battery terminal were busted and there was little-to-no-support to keep the battery in place. It took me a few mins to realize the issue since I was new to it and there was no support structure to keep the battery in place. Okay... Strike 1! Back into the box it goes, replacement ordered and now I wait... Enter E-leveler #2: This one showed up a few days later (already frustrating), but it looks like its in much better condition. I carefully inspected the battery terminal for the proper connectors. Bingo! They're not broken on this one! Hoo ray! I also noted this one had a small lip to hold the batter in place better. Cool Deal. I put the battery in and it's off to the races. First thing I notice is that it's HARD to see my nozzle and line up the tip in the e-leveler's cross hairs. This might be an issue special to the Ender 3 sprite extruder (bulker printhead), so I can't blame the e-leveler for this, but it's something to be aware of. I found using a bright flashlight helped me really zero in my nozzle tip on the white cross-hairs. I recommend holding the light at a slight angle for better reflectivity, then lining it up. Of course this means that the g-code file for leveling your bed might move too quickly for each corner. That's easily fixed with a little practice or the CR Touch leveling feature on the Ender 3. I use the latter option and it works REAL well for me since I can really take my time at each corner. This worked out REALLY well for about a month until the button switch broke. The solder points are extremely thin and just using the device over time seemed to weaken the connections on the button. Eventually, I noticed it wouldn't light up one day and upon further inspection I saw one of the button leads had busted. I wasn't putting really pushing down that hard on the button, so its solder job and the quality of the switch is really shoddy. I STRONGLY recommend that you check the solder points on the board, and DON'T USE THE PRINTABLE SWITCH COVER! If your printed cover is even slightly off, then expect it to be too tight and put extra-pressure on a very delicate switch (REAL bad). I'd just store the e-leveler in an uncluttered area with the button facing upward. No fuss, no muss. So that's where I'm am. For the month that I had it working, it worked REAL well. Sadly, it's a piece of crap quality wise and breaks with very easily. Of course it also broke outside the return window, so I'm stuck deciding do I order it again or not. Perhaps I just got two defective e-levelers, but for $25 you'd think they could spend SOME TIME on quality control. I mean... the thing isn't exactly cheap. Will I get a 3rd? I dunno. I like it when it works, but that's WHEN it works. For the price... I feel like it's not worth risking it breaking again. I'll probably look into re-soldering the button and making sure it's done right. As for right now, all I can say is BUYER BEWARE. Does it work? YES! Quite well actually Will it break? So far that's also a YES! <-- You might have better luck than me. My leveling routine (Ender 3 S1 Pro) -Heat up your bed to the operating temperature you want to use first. Give the bed 5-10mins to stabilize in temperature. -Go to Aux. Level option on CR touch -Move printhead to the middle of bed and adjust z-offset until the e-leveler fits under your nozzle -Adjust z-offset down until the light just turns on, then back it off a step -Now go to each corner using Aux. level and adjust tension knobs until the light barely begins to flicker. You will need to do this at multiple times as adjusting the level will throw all corners off slightly. The first time you do this it takes a little while. There is a slight learning curve and zeroing in the level the first time requires greater adjustment. Once that first time is done, subsequent levels are MUCH MUCH FASTER. -Now run the CR touch Auto Lvl feature to build your mesh, then go back to Aux. level and check the z-offset in the middle of the bed. -You're good. The bed is trammed almost perfectly.
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Reviewed in the United States on March 20, 2023 by HonestReviews
Great device worked well to a degree. The test print square came out great but when I tried to print an item the print had too much squish in places that there was no plastic. Well I found out that I had some sagging issues with the z axis and by the time I decided to do anything about it I just went ahead and disassembled it an installed the ender extender kit. The other huge issue is the time limit you have to get it set before it moves onto the next point to level. I'm slow an it takes a while for me to dial it in. That's my hugest gripe about it.
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Reviewed in the United States on January 14, 2023 by Aaron M.
This little gadget I'd great! I had issues traming the bed on my Ender 3, I used both the paper and gauge methods with varying results, finally decided to buy one of these, it's as easy as a frog falling off a log now. Just make the nozzle kiss the bed on all four corners, set the Z-offset to 5.8, use the provided G code, and lower and raise the bed until the LED lights up, then reset you Z-offset to what it was before, and BAM!!!! You get the perfect first layer, I highly recommend it.
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Reviewed in the United States on August 18, 2023 by Lester Roque