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EPEVER 40 Amp MPPT Solar Charge Controller 150V PV Input Negative Ground

  • Based on 158 reviews
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Availability: Only 1 left in stock, order soon!
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Arrives Monday, Sep 8
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Features

  • Negative Ground, Max 150V(Voc) PV input. A higher input capacity will allow you wiring more solar panels in series to minimum pv current
  • Advanced maximum power point tracking technology to optimize the solar system. This 40A MPPT solar charger 's tracking efficiency can reach 99.5%
  • Support 4 charging options: Sealed, Gel, Flooded and User-defined. Compatible with AGM batteries, User mode allow you set your own charging parameters
  • Over temperature, over charging, PV and load short, PV (battery) revered, over current protection. Comes with RS-485 communication bus interface, It is Standard MODBUS interface
  • This 40A Charge Controller works with Max 600W Solar Panel Charging a 12v Battery System, or 1200W Panel on 24v Battery System.

Brand: SolarEpic


Voltage: 150 Volts


Material: Gel


Item Weight: 2.9 Kilograms


Product Dimensions: 11.91 x 2.5 x 7.19 inches


Item Weight: 6.38 pounds


Manufacturer: SolarEpic


Country of Origin: China


Item model number: Tracer4215BN


Is Discontinued By Manufacturer: No


Frequently asked questions

If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is: Monday, Sep 8

Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.

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Top Amazon Reviews


  • Working like a champ.
I recently upgraded my solar panels from 235 watt to 305 watt panels. My old controllers won't handle that power so I purchased this unit. Easy set up and use with the temp sensor and MT-50 remote meter keeps my batteries topped off and working great. The older charge controllers sometimes got very hot, but not this unit. The large heat sink keeps it cool. I wouldn't run it without the MT-50 remote as this provides much more information than the flashing LED's on the charge controller. It's important to note that you really need to read and understand the instructions on how this charge controller works. I've read a lot of reviews on this charge controller and in many, there's confusion by the reviewer as to what the charge controller is doing. I'm pleased with its performance. UPDATE: 6/26/2017 - I'm still impressed with this controller. I took it up to my ranch in Colorado where it performed perfectly, and continues to do so. What I mean by this is that typically I tow my travel trailer (and all solar equipment) back home after my Memorial week camping trip. This year i left all up at the camp. I left everything connected, hoping there would be no issues. Yesterday I had a friend check on the controller and inverted. Everything is working perfectly. There is little draw on the batteries over night so it doesn't take long before the charge controller is done for the day after topping off the batteries. It spends most of the day dissipating the energy from the solar panels. My friend said the fins on the controller were just warm but not hot. The controller is reporting everything is good. I'm very pleased it's doing such a good job for my return vacation this coming July 4th week. UPDATE: 8/2/2017 – Just as above I left my entire solar power system including this charge controller connected and fully operational. Now into August, I had a check made on the system again. It hasn’t been touched since I left shortly after July 4th. It’s still working perfectly! Here’s what I’ve got set up: Two 305 watt solar panels connected in series. The panels go into the SolarEpic MPPT 40A solar charge controller at about 75 volts. Out of the charge controller I go to 4 Trojan 6 volt T-105RE batteries. The batteries are set up into two 12v pairs. The positive lead goes through a 40A fuse. The positive and negative are connected to opposite ends of the battery bank. This provides a complete charge across all the batteries. The leads going to my inverter are on the exact opposite to discharge the batteries evenly. This seems to work very well. The inverter is a Ramsond SunRay 1500 Pure Sign Wave inverter. From there I go into a Kill-a-Watt meter to keep track of power used, line voltage..etc. Out of the Kill-a-Watt meter I go into a fused power strip. Using a 30amp travel trailer adapter to 15amp plug I plug in my travel trailer into the power strip. My travel trailer lights have been fully replaced with LED lights. Everything in the trailer runs (TV, DVD, furnace, fans) with the exception of the air conditioner. The refrigerator and freezer in my trailer are both 120v, so they also run off the solar power system. All these items with the exception of the solar panels, batteries, and refrigerator were purchased from Amazon. With the four T-105RE batteries I can run for two days with no sun. I’m adding four more batteries for my next visit starting in September. I’m also upgrading from the Ramsond SunRay 1500 inverter to Power Tech-On 3000 watt inverter. The larger inverter should run my microwave oven and possibly even start my A/C (not that it’s needed at 7000+ feet in Colorado). It’ll be another four weeks before I return, but I expect the SolarEpic MPPT charge controller and all the rest of the equipment to continue doing their job as I designed. One note – I do have two 36 watt light bulbs on timers in the trailer. They turn on/off randomly at night. This provides some drain on the batteries for the next day’s charging cycle. Wire used is 0/1 awg throughout on the 12v side. From the solar panels I’m running 10awg, also purchased from Amazon. Overall I’m very pleased with how all these parts are working together to provide me with fully off grid power. Do your homework, study, and there’s no reason you can’t create a fully off grid power system that is reliable. This is all for my final retirement home on the same property which is over five miles from any utility. See the picture I added. This is of my travel trailer in Colorado running on my solar power system now for almost two full months with absolutely no intervention. In my trailer I have two 45 watt(eq) LED bulbs on timers. The lights turn on and off throughout the night. My trail camera picks up the light in the morning just before shutting off for the day. The use of the lights helps to bleed some of the power from the batteries allowing the charge controller to do its job. The light can be seen coming through the door window and front window of the trailer. Just three more days and I'll be heading back up for my final week of the season. I've learned with these controllers, make sure you have them connected up correctly, don't push them to their max, and they run and run.... Best controller I've purchased yet. Just as expected, the controller continued to opperate and keep my batteries at the optimum capcity. My new plan is to mount two 305 watt and two 285 watt panels on the roof of my travel trailer. I'll mount the charge controller and my full sign wave inverter inside my trailer. The battery bank will in a battery box I'll build outside the trailer. I plan on purchasing one more of these charge controllers. Last summer I made it through the entire summer with just the two 305 watt panels. Now that I'm adding the two 285 watt panels I'll have more than enough re-charge capability and power. I actually used the light (load on/off) feature on the charge controller to turn a 12v fan on during the day and off at night, aimed at the controller to help keep it cool. I never had an overheating issue, but not being up at camp during most of the summer wasn't something I was willing to take a chance on. After all, there was more then enough energy created to charge the batteries and run the little fan, so why not. Great charge controller. https://youtu.be/IE3O9eQDGXQ ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on June 9, 2017 by BTC BTC

  • 100% solid so far. I thnk it's a keeper.
This SolarEpic charge controller works just fine. It does it's job well. Before this controller I was using a PWM charge controller on my backup off grid system. (Yes I have a backup). Anyway it never fully charged the battery bank.. With is controller and the existing 510 watts of solar panels the 450AH of batteries were charged in one day. On this battery bank I normally run a 23 cu ft freezer and a 42 inch TV via a 1000 watt inverter. The charge controller has no problems keeping up with the demand placed on the battery bank. I use the MT-50 meter and also downloaded the PC software that works with this controller. I have a real old laptop connected to the controller. The software gives you a great deal of control and it collects and monitors about everything I could want with the system. The heat sink placement is excellent, it's been getting over 100 degrees F here and no problems. I also mounted the device on 1 inch standoffs for air flow on the back side also. If you think you may run into heating problems with some of your solar devices a thing that works well is to install a old 12vdc computer fan to blow air across the device for cooling. You power the fan off you battery bank as long as it's 12 volts. Used this many times at home and at work. It works, saves money. Update: 14 Dec 2017 - The charge controller has been running now for about 1 1/2 years. No problems. Works great. It now charges just over 600 AH of batteries. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on August 20, 2016 by Old1937

  • Very nice unit... heavy duty and it shows
I like everything about it except the information that is available to set it up. But, much of that confusion is also because I have Renogy LFP batteries and they don't seem to know their own product. I can attest that it is working very well with 600W array with 340 Ah of LFP. I am sure I will figure it out, but so far it has been less than "user friendly", shall I say Edited 9-1-2020. More information trickles in and the seller provides settings; some I heartily disagree with. I am still adjusting as needed. These are my settings (left) that I am still trying to find the best value. Charge limit is 14.6 for these batteries (3.65/cell), so OVD should be just over that, not above the BMS protection limit Renogy states - 15.2v. Then, OV reconnect surely shouldn't be a value that is still over Renogy's guidelines. Also, why would I want it to return to Boost far above its resting 12.8 volt (3.2 v/cell). LFP doesn't like to be kept totally full 24/7 and I get it that LFP doesn't need to Float. But, I don't want to keep all devices powered up to 14.6 volts, so I dropped to 3.35 per cell of 13.4v. Also, all their low or undervolt settings are far above its lower potential of the batteries. Low volt disconnect per Renogy is 9.2, so I made it slightly higher to prevent total shutdown. Boost time is also under review. All that is needed is enough time for the BMS to equalize the cells. Renogy makes no claim, so I guess 10 minutes. That is how long it remains 14.6 volts after it reaches that level. Voltage---------------------------12V My settings Recommended by EpEver Temp Coeff ---------------------0 (turns off) 0 (turns off temp comp) Over Voltage Disconnect-— 14.8v 15.6v Charge Limit--------------------14.6v 14.6v Over Voltage Recon---------- 14.0v 14.7v Equalize Charge------------- --14.6v Leave at default Boost charge------------------ -14.6v 14.5v Boost Recon----------------- ---12.2v 13.2v Float charge------------------- -13.4v They don’t mention Float Low volt Recon--------------- -10.4v 12.8v Under volt Recon--------- -- -10.4v 12.8v Under volt warning-------- --10.5v 12.0v Low volt warning disco---- --11.0v 11.1v Discharge limit---------------- -10.0v 10.6v Equalization Time----------- - -000 (off) They don’t mention but this turns off equalization Boost Time----------------------010 minues 2 minutes ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on May 21, 2019 by ItsAllAboutTime ItsAllAboutTime

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