BOSS Audio Systems AR4000D Class D Car Amplifier - 4000 Watts, 1 Ohm Stable, Digital, Monoblock, Mosfet Power Supply, Great for Car Subwoofers
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Availability:
19 left in stock
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Wednesday, Jul 23
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Style: Class D Monoblock 4000W
Features
- Power - 4000 Watts Max x 1 @1-Ohm, 2000 Watts Max x 1 @2-Ohms
- Class D - Power loss is significantly reduced making the amplifier highly efficient. Excess energy is stored until its needed instead of being converted into heat. Reduction in size/weight, reduced power waste, smaller heat sink, compact circuitry
- 1 Ohm Stable - Able to continuously power loads of 1 Ohm without encountering difficulties such as overheating. Typically made to power up subwoofers that demand the heavier power load requirements to be able to perform the way they were made to
- Strapping Capable - You are able to strap two AR4000D amplifiers and double the power that is being sent to your subwoofer(s). You now have the ability to connect more subwoofers to take advantage of the extra power
- Variable Bass Boost - Bass Boost allows you to adjust the low bass within the boost range to just the way you like it
- Variable Subsonic Filter - To prevent your subwoofer(s) from bottoming out, the variable subsonic filter filters out frequencies below the subwoofer(s) specified low frequency limits and allows the driver to reach a maximum safe excursion
- Variable Low-Pass Crossover - Subwoofers reproduce sound based on a number of different low-range frequencies. You can set exact sound specifications for the bass frequency reproduction
- Specs - Dimensions: 14.3 x 6.5 x 2.8, Weight: 7.96 lbs.
Description
Kick your Bass into high gear with the Boss Audio Armor AR4000D Class D Monoblock Amplifier. This powerful 1-Ohm stable Amplifier features 4000 Watts Max Power with a MOSFET power supply to get your tunes rocking. Customize the sound with Variable Low Pass Crossover, Bass Boost and Subsonic Filter. Maximize the Bass with the Remote Subwoofer Control. For double the performance and power, strap on another AR4000D for a total power of 8,000 Watts @2-Ohms. The Armor Series of Amplifiers packs incredible power and performance into a feature-rich slim design for put-it-anywhere convenience. Give power to your playlists with the Boss Audio AR4000D. For further product details, please scroll down.
Brand: BOSS Audio Systems
Color: Black
Compatible Devices: Car audio systems
Material: Metal
Output Wattage: 4000 Watts
Product Dimensions: 14.3 x 6.5 x 2.8 inches
Item Weight: 8 pounds
Item model number: AR4000D
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer: No
Frequency: 50 Hz
Special features: Class D, 1 Ohm stable, Strapping capable
Other display features: Wireless
Color: Black
Whats in the box: Remote subwoofer level control, User's manual
Manufacturer: BOSS AUDIO
Date First Available: March 12, 2011
Frequently asked questions
If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is:
Wednesday, Jul 23
Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
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Top Amazon Reviews
Style: Class A/B Monoblock 1500W
This is a Mono amp, meaning you can only plug One Subwoofer into it. For $50, this AMP works flawlessly. It has never turned off from being too hot and I am an Uber EATS driver, so my car is on ALL day. The best part about this AMP, is that is has a Line Out Converter / High Output adapter installed inside it and it comes with wires. My LOC didn't arrive when the AMP did so I was pretty mad, then realized that it had that adapter and was immediately excited again. VERY easy to hook up and use. I recommend this for anybody New to bass systems and looking to install a simple 12". I've got a 1000w 12" Kenwood Subwoofer installed to it. Beats HARD. You won't be dissapointed. HERE'S SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS ON INSTALLING YOUR SUB TO STOCK HEAD UNT YOURSELF. - Subwoofer should be in enclosed box. - Amplifier is best screwed to the subwoofer box - Take the Power wire, cut it as needed, and wire it to the BATTERY input on the AMP, then run it to your car battry Positive Terminal. ( I wrapped the wire around it and stuck the Cars wire harNess over it and tightened it ) - Ground wire goes to the GRND input on the AMP then goes to either a bolt in your trunk ( which shouldn't be painted ) or If you have a fuse box in the trunk with a ground wire, you can use that bolt as well. - Blue power wire. That goes to the REM / Remote input on your AMP and runs either to the power wire in your head unit, or a fuse that turns off when car is off. ( I used my ignition fuse. I Wrapped a wire around it barely, so I could get it back into the fuse slot ) Now that your AMP will have power when the car is turned on or in the accessory mode, we can now wire the speakers. Easiest part, just nobody ever describes it good. -Your subwoofer has two inputs on the box and the subwoofer should be wired inside the box as well. POSITIVE TO POSITIVE, NEGATIVE TO NEGATIVE. - Your amp has a positive and negative input. Use the speaker wire you have and wire it to the subwoofer box, from the AMP. Positive to Positive, Negative to Negative. Positive is often times a silver wire, as Negative will be Copper. OFTEN, not for all speaker wire. NOW, the LOC if your bought one, or I'f your using an AMP like this, which came with an adapter installed in the AMP already. - The LOC / Adapter wires both are the same. They have 5 wires and some LOCs only have 4 wires. With 5 wires, there is a ground wire which I used a piece of Negative speaker wire to make it longer, then ran that to where I had the AMPs ground wire. - Locate your rear speakers and figure out which is the Positive connector and which is the Negative. The Wires on the LOC or Adapter wires will be like this if your looking at it POS. NEG. GROUND. NEG. POS. OR if you only have 4 wires without the ground, ignore the ground. When the adapter wires are plugged to the AMP, you'll see which side is Left and Right. So from there, simply tap those wires into the Left and Right rear speaker. You can take the plug off the speaker wrap it around snug, and slide the plug back on. That's what I did. Just make sure POSITIVE is POSITIVE and NEGATIVE is NEGATIVE. The Wires on the LOC are very short and so are the wires on the Adapter wires foe the AMP if you don't have the LOC. If you are using an LOC, once those wires are tapped to your rear speakers, plug in the RCA and match the colors up correctly. Make sure whatever wires you cut, are properly wrapped In electrical tape or if the shrink wrap, whatever you use. Now, turn your Car on and your AMP is ready to go, and your Bass system should now be bumping. Adjust the GAIN and volume on yur amp according to your taste. If your AMP does NOT come on, it's because your blue power wire isn't installed correctly. Best way to test your AMP is find a normal fuse to something that's always on, like a cig ligter. Use different fuses until you get it to turn on then property identify your ignition fuse that way the AMP cuts off when yu turn the key off. Your welcome.
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Reviewed in the United States on September 28, 2017 by Asylum McNabb
Style: Class A/B Monoblock 1500W
This is a solid amp as long as you don't expect 1500 watts. It's a more realistic 600W max with an RMS of around 200. The fuse is 30 amp, which at 14 volts equates to 420 watts. It's at most 60% efficient, so that's 252W output. And since that's probably still too high, let's call it 200 watts RMS. It sounds good and doesn't distort unless you really crank it up. Even at 200W it shakes my mirrors and rattles the trim pieces. Punches hard and sounds good with an Infinity 1262 wired at 2 ohms in a Scosche truck box. Pros: Sounds good Small, and lightweight Has high level inputs Cons: It gets hot, but I haven't had it shut down on me yet Not anywhere near claimed output So overall, I'm impressed with this amp, at least for the price. It's a solid amp for a good price. If you're looking to add some low-end to your system, this is a good way to do it.
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Reviewed in the United States on February 21, 2013 by B. Esser
Style: Class D Monoblock 4000W
So a year and a half ago, I was gifted 2 infinity reference series 12 inch subs from my brother. it was clear that I needed a large amp to power it. I had an mtx 750, and it didn't work as well as I expected it. but then I saw a 2000 watt boss for 75 bucks. I decided to go for it. it has been running at full power since I purchased it. I bought 2 twelve inch Rockford fosgate punch 12s and found out that they little 2000 watt amp would not push all 4. so I brought out the big guns. I ordered 2 ar4000 monoblock amps, 1/0 pure oxygen free copper, going to a .5 farad cap and a 2 farad cap. split into 2 lengths of 4 gauge jl audio pure copper. I set it up put the bass level to full. big mistake. I cracked my windshield, edge to edge, on the passenger side of my car. my mirror vibrated all the way down until it was looking at my dash. my check engine light came on and made my car misfire for a few seconds. and my neighbors car alarm went off and in turn made them call the police on me. I'm seriously impressed with they whole armor line of amps from boss. I might just be purchasing another! you will need a spare battery to run these at their peak, because they will kill your battery on extended trips with the level all the way up. Edit: now have 6 subs, 4 alpine bassline 12' 1 infinity reference, and 1 12 inch sony xplode 1200 watt, with a total max load of 6542 watts. I had a failure in one of the other infinity subs so I replaced it.pushes all of them very well. my best friend left cookies on all my subs while I was working on them, and when I went to turn it on, shot cookie bits all over my car. 2nd edit. I am now running 2 soundqubed hdc3.18 subs in a 12 cube box 35z at 0.5 ohm. It pushed them hard but clips if my voltage goes uder 13.5. It also gets very ho.
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Reviewed in the United States on March 8, 2016 by Parker