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Availability:
Only 6 left in stock, order soon!
Arrives
Thursday, May 29
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Features
- Perfect Fit Direct OE replacement with drop-in precise fitment and easy installation
- Premium Quality Premium grade aluminum tubes and precision folded and louvered aluminum fins ensure optimum cooling efficiency
- Exceptional Performance Comparable tubes and fin pitch to the OE counterpart producing similar coolant flow volume to meet or exceed OE performance
- Reinforced Reliability Above and beyond enhancements such as aluminum inlet rings, internal tank ribs, expansion grooves, and double header plates to prevent against leaking and provide extended durability
Description
To restore your vehicle's factory cooling efficiency, all TYC radiators are equivalent to OE construction for number and placement of fluid tubes and cooling fins. For those radiators with transmission oil coolers, the tanks are molded using heat-resistant, high-density polymer plastic for added protection against extreme engine temperatures. Each TYC radiator is leak-tested before leaving the factory to ensure consistent quality.
Manufacturer: TYC
Brand: TYC
Model: TYC 2342 Replacement Radiator
Item Weight: 8 pounds
Country of Origin: China
Item model number: 2342
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer: No
Exterior: Machined
Manufacturer Part Number: 2342
OEM Part Number: 3L2Z 8005 AA
ABPA Partslink Number: FO3010146
Hollander Number: 3L2Z 8005 AA
Domestic Shipping: Item can be shipped within U.S.
Date First Available: October 10, 2007
Frequently asked questions
If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is:
Thursday, May 29
Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
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Top Amazon Reviews
As far as the radiator goes, it seems to be fairly durable, which is nice and it has all the screw hole placements and hose placement fitting connectors on it in all the right places and dimensions to be a direct swap-in for the OEM radiator that came with my '02 Ford Explorer. I got it for a great price at the time compared to other competitor's radiators, and I can't imagine how much more durable a more expensive one could be, so this is a smart buy. Well, a smart buy assuming that stop leak won't work first or that you don't have a good, trustworthy and reasonably-priced mechanic who is willing to do this repair for you. This repair sucked. I scraped the skin on the back of my hands plenty whilst performing this repair. In fact, you should wear gloves and own a small 8 mm ratcheting box-wrench or get one if you don't. The spacing is so tight at times, you'll never get a normal ratchet and socket in all the time. The service manual I own stated that the transmission cooler lines needed to be taken out. As mine used perma-type clamps, this would require cutting the clamps with my snips. Given the location of the hoses going to the cooler, I figured getting clamps on after the fact, would prove difficult. Luckily, the cooler lines and the a/c lines going to the transmission cooler and the a/c condenser, respectively, don't have to come off at all to replace the radiator. This, however, requires unmounting the radiator completely by removing two easy to remove 8 mm bolts at the top and 2 very difficult to reach ones at the bottom. Unscrew the only two mounting bolts at the top and on either side of the transmission cooler, located in front of the a/c condenser, but behind the radiator, it's the small one, not even half the height of the radiator or condenser, prior to taking the bottom two bolts out of the radiator. You're going to want to own a pair of Ford specific tools for taking the cooling fan off of the water pulley. It's nearly impossible to remove the cooling fan without these two tools. The big looking wrench simply goes around the four bolts, that's the 4 x bolts themselves, which are around the pulley to the water pump, spaced around the inside big bolt which goes to the cooling fan. Just clamp around the 4 bolts on the pulley and hold it still, while using the longer, smaller wrench to yank to the left to start removing the cooling fan. Once you break it free with these special tools, just spin the fan off to the left with your bare hands, instead of being an idiot like me and continuing to use the long wrench to slowly work the fan off to the left. Lol, smh, live and learn, right? A final tip dealing with this difficult repair: either discard the plastic deflectors inside of the left and right metal bars, the bars that are held up with 13 mm bolts on either side of the transmission cooler, that the radiator bolts to on the sides, or put them back prior to mounting the transmission cooler and the radiator back. I went to put these two deflectors back in, after mounting these two units back, and it seemed rather impossible, so I finally gave it up. That said, I think they are about as useless as anything could be inside of your vehicle. The metal bars themselves ought to do a good enough job at deflecting junk from hitting these fragile units on the side, so the plastic deflectors in these places, seem more a pain than they're worth. That mentioned, though, I would definitely put on the two deflectors at the bottom of the radiator and the one plastic deflector that goes under the top cover over the radiator, transmission cooler, and a/c condenser, all back at the end. They're easy to put back on and will help protect this stuff. Going back to the durability of this particular radiator, I did smash in, not terribly so, but some, I admit I did, the metal pieces that make up the outside larger portions of the radiator on the front and back whilst completing this repair. Still, no leaks, although I've only had it repaired and driving for a day so far after getting this radiator in. Look, this repair is pretty darn difficult. I've replaced the A/C evaporator core and heater core inside of this vehicle, which involved taking the dashboard and steering columns out, and I thought the worst of anything as far as repairs go inside of this vehicle were definitely behind me. I wouldn't exactly put replacing the radiator up on a list quite equaling the difficulty of the replacements of those two cores, but it comes kind of close. Even installing the water pump inside of this vehicle seemed almost a little easier and quicker than swapping this radiator out. So, in summary, try some stop leak for your radiator first, and see if that can address your leak(s). If not, and you know someone who can do this and for not way too an exorbitant amount of money, you might want to save yourself some outbursts of profanity and bloody hands, and just fork over the dough. Otherwise, if you're a complete cheapskate like me, and the stop leak isn't working because the leaks are just too bad, then this is probably the place and the radiator to buy. Good luck! ;)
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Reviewed in the United States on December 13, 2021 by Chad W.
Great fit. Installed with no issues. (1-star review) Worked perfectly for 3 and a half months. But now has developed a small leak on top corner on passenger side. No mishandling or misuse. 2005 Ford Explorer. ** UPDATE ** Once I removed the leaking radiator, I installed a new one (different brand). I took detailed measurements and noticed that the mounting bolt holes were slightly off. Although when installing it I did not notice any undue force put on the radiator when bolting it in, it may have been possible. This leaves the possibility that it was under stress as the bolt holes were not 100% aligned and may have caused tension/stress on the radiator. This may also have been be what caused the original radiator to leak also (It was in a small fender bender half a year before it leak). Since I can not be 100% sure the leak was due to radiator quality issues , I have updated the review to 4 star as it was a good fit, and it did last for over 3 months.
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Reviewed in the United States on January 8, 2020 by AntMan3DFX
Fits perfectly and work very well on explorer 02... Original radiator had huge crack in the plastic housing. Hope this one lasts 16 years like original. Installation of radiator is not easy on the explorer but the position of screws and outlets for hoses matches exactly... They should have designed these radiators all metal and a bit easier to replace but that's a story for another day!
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Reviewed in the United States on April 13, 2018 by Nick
The first impression is awesome. Just imagine, coolant temperature now 10-15% less comparing my old OEM radiator. This means TYC brand radiator was made even better comparing OEM. So, with this product, you'll get a better cooling system efficiency and longer engine life as a result. The question is how long and happy life will have this radiator. So, metal and plastic are solid and the entire construction looks decent. I'll keep you posted.
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Reviewed in the United States on November 27, 2019 by Stan, OK
Matched the original perfectly. I've only installed it about a month ago. No leaks so far. A lot cheaper than what the dealer wanted for a replacement radiator
Reviewed in the United States on June 8, 2019 by Scbird5521
The first shipment was a gas tank. I ordered a radiator. Second time's a charm. It was will packaged and in good shape. Somewhat of a bear to install, but that was not the radiator's fault.
Reviewed in the United States on August 23, 2020 by Richard Boll
Looked like OEM and installed without issue. Significantly less that what I would have paid for a used one. Has been in my Explorer for a couple of months now without issue.
Reviewed in the United States on May 16, 2019 by Amazon Customer
looks and performs like oem. i bought used return item which was bent and still good until today
Reviewed in the United States on November 11, 2020 by The Certifier