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OVERTURE

OVERTURE PETG Filament 1.75mm, 3D Printer Filament, 1kg Filament (2.2lbs), Dimensional Accuracy Probability +/- 0.02 mm, Fit Most FDM Printers (Purple)

    • Based on 15,264 reviews
Condition: New
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Availability: 12 left in stock
Fulfilled by Amazon
Arrives Wednesday, May 22
Order within 14 hours and 26 minutes
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Color: Purple


Features

  • High Performance & Compatibility Combines the advantages of both PLA and ABS with Overture PETG, featuring the ease of printing with PLA and improved mechanical properties of ABS, including enhanced impact resistance and superior layer adhesion
  • Clog-Free & Bubble-Free Designed and manufactured with our patented clog-free formula to get a smooth and seamless printing experience. All spools undergo thorough drying for 24 hours before packaging and are vacuum-sealed in resealable foil packaging. To maintain optimal performance, store PETG filament in sealed storage with desiccants (silica gel) or dry for >6 hours at 65 C
  • Dimensional Accuracy & ConsistencyAdvanced CCD diameter measuring and self-adaptive control system in the manufacturing insure these tough PLA filaments to be strict tolerances. Diameter 1.75mm, dimensional accuracy (98%) + / - 0.02 mm without any exaggeration
  • Wide Compatibility and Color Selection Overture filaments seamlessly integrates with consumer and industrial 3D printers. Explore your creative side with our extensive selection of vibrant colors, ensuring a spectrum of possibilities for your unique creations
  • Risk-Free & Lifetime Service Discover worry-free 3D printing with Overture filamentbacked by our lifetime satisfaction service. No matter the challenges, we're here to support you for a seamless 3D printing experience. Trust Overture as your dependable supplier of 3D printing filaments and accessories

Brand: OVERTURE


Material: Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol


Color: Purple


Item Weight: 1 Kilograms


Item Diameter: 1.75 Millimeters


Manufacturer: ‎OVERTURE


Brand: ‎OVERTURE


Item Weight: ‎2.2 pounds


Package Dimensions: ‎8.82 x 8.15 x 2.83 inches


Item model number: ‎OVPETG175


Color: ‎Purple


Material Type: ‎Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol


Size: ‎1.75 mm Diameter, 1 Kg ( 2.2lb ) Spool


Manufacturer Part Number: ‎OVPETG175


Date First Available: February 17, 2019


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If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is: Wednesday, May 22

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Top Amazon Reviews

    • Easy to print and strong
Color: Purple
Good PETG for the price. It is not too picky on temperature, it prints fine anywhere from 245-255 on my Ender 3 V2. It doesn't bridge very well but that is to be expected for PETG, if you want to bridge I recommend printing at 245 and turning on bridging settings in Cura which makes bridges possible although pretty ugly. Supports work better than bridging, but can be hard to remove because PETG sticks to itself so well. Here are my settings for Ender 3 v2: micro swiss all-metal hotend / original extruder / original bowden tube bltouch leveling probe + yellow springs nozzle 0.4mm 250c bed plain glass + gluestick, 85c first layer speed 10 speed after first layer 30 first layer height: 0.28 layer height after first layer: 0.2 fan: none unless you are trying to bridge, if so use bridge detection to turn fan 100% only for the bridge retraction 3mm @ 30 I find that the biggest struggle with PETG is just getting the first layer to stick and look good. Once you get past the first layer it is usually smooth sailing. If you have problems with the first layer, first of all dry your filament even if it is brand new. It is an easy way to eliminate frustrations. Also go ahead and calibrate your extruder steps and measure your filament diameter and put that into your slicer, again these are easy steps that ensure you will not be fighting under/over extrusion while you are trying to get everything else figured out. Next use glue stick on plain glass and let the glue stick dry. You want the glass to look dull, not shiny, but it also shouldn't feel sticky to the touch. This combo works great for me, it adheres well but not TOO well and the prints pop themselves off when they cool. Lots of people like hairspray too but gluestick works fine for me and is less messy. Finally the #1 most important thing is to adjust your z offset and first layer height. You cannot mush the filament onto the bed like PLA, it needs to fall out of the nozzle and gently lay down onto the bed. Before doing anything with your z-offset I recommend turning your first layer height up to .28 or .3. The reason is that this sets your nozzle higher AND automatically adjusts the flow rate to match. If you just start bumping your z-offset higher and higher, you will be under-extruding by a lot which can cause its own problems. Once you set your first-layer height to .28, then start printing a test print and live-adjust your Z until the lines lay down and stick to the bed, and are neither gooping up onto the nozzle, nor being hit by the nozzle and pulled off the bed. This is tricky because the sweet spot here is TINY. Like within one or 2 micro-adjustments on the z, either side of that you will have issues. But once you hit the sweet spot on the Z you are golden. Then print some bed leveling test prints and adjust your first layer extrusion multiplier or line width if needed so your lines are touching. I recommend always using the bed level print that is CIRCLES when starting off, not squares. The sharp corners on the squares are super unforgiving and will pop off instantly if your settings aren't right. It is easier to use a bed leveling print with circles to dial your settings in without frustrating yourself and needing to restart the print a hundred times. When printing things over 2" tall I recommend using a wide brim because originally I was using skirt and I have had taller prints pop off the bed right as they are nearly finished, I think the reason is due to the lower part of the print cooling off. A brim is cheap insurance against your whole print being ruined at the last moment, and is easy to remove and leaves little trace that it was ever there. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on August 6, 2021 by haggis
    • Very strong, beautiful good quality and cant even notice layers!
Color: Rock White
Review Image by Austin Wolt Austin Wolt
Review Image by Austin Wolt Austin Wolt
The way this filament works it's almost like there are no layer lines at all in my prints! Im making a shelf to go in a store right now using this filament. I think it is great and very strong I use it for any print that needs strength
Reviewed in the United States on March 2, 2024 by Austin Wolt Austin Wolt
    • A learning curve, but impressive results
Color: 1 Kg White
I've been using 3d printers for all of 2 week. A couple days ago I decided to try my first non-pla filament, so I bought this because I heard PETG has a great finish, and its a bit more flexible. The first thing you'll notice is that when the material is heated, it can blob up very easy on the nozzle, but I think it's that ability to blob so easily that gives it such a great finish. I've only been using it q couple days, but so far I've gotten great results with 20 mm/s speed, bed starting at 75 then 80 after 2 layers, and nozzle temp at 250. This filament is also known to string easily, but from what I've experienced, this particular type of stringing is easy to clean up, and once you get comfortable with the material, it's easy to resolve. It can have issues sticking to the bed, and get tangled around the nozzle, so you're going to want to keep an eye on it at first. Especially the first few layers. The settings you'll want to pay attention to most are: Retraction - too little and you'll have stringing. Too much, and filament will start pulling melted blobs into the nozzle head and then depositing them on your print. I have mine at 3/30 Nozzle temp/speed: I've had decent results at 235-240, but I could not get them consistently. The last few runs 250 has been the sweet spot at 20-25 mm/s nozzle speed. Because this filament melts at a higher temp, but is also gooey, you'll have to play around a bit with the speed and temp. But the priority shouod be starting off at around 20 qnd 245-250, and then going from there, so you can get used to how this filament flows. Bed temp: 75/80. I lay down 2 layers at 75, and then bump it to 80. I usually do that 5 degree initial difference to help the plastic cool at a more consistent rate. As the nozzle moves further, and more layers are added, the bottom layers can start to shrink on you, and mess the edges up. This, one with the draft shield, an experimental feature in the cura settings, have gone a long way with eliminating that issue. I've seen people say 60 or 65 on the bed overall, but for me, that cools that 1st layer too quick, and the filamemt pops up and gets stuck to my nozzle. In fact, this just happened a few days ago, which somehow led to my motherboard blowing, but luckily creality covered the cost. Last but not least, I think you'll love the feel and finished look of this material. It's a big step up from pla. The fill pattern is not nearly as noticeable through the outer layer, and its much more smooth. It will make you look like you know what you're doing lol Have fun & #PrintOn ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on January 17, 2021 by Chuck
    • Overture is Great - But ARMY Green PETG just doesn't print well for me
Color: Army Green
I'd give most Overture filament, both PETG and PLA, 4.5 / 5 stars. It's affordable and consistent. But I have a roll of their Army Green PETG that I just cannot get to print. I've tried on an Ender 3/ 5 and K1 with profiles I know to print well with other filaments but the layer adhesion and stringing on the Army Green is just awful. Buy their filament, just not Army Green! It looks cool on the roll though, I wish it printed well. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on November 27, 2023 by Nathan

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