OVERTURE PETG Filament 1.75mm, 3D Printer Filament, 1kg Filament (2.2lbs), Dimensional Accuracy Probability +/- 0.02 mm, Fit Most FDM Printers (Gold)
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Availability:
Only 10 left in stock, order soon!
Arrives
Monday, Jul 7
Color: Gold
Features
- High Performance & Compatibility Combines the advantages of both PLA and ABS with Overture PETG, featuring the ease of printing with PLA and improved mechanical properties of ABS, including enhanced impact resistance and superior layer adhesion
- Clog-Free & Bubble-Free Designed and manufactured with our patented clog-free formula to get a smooth and seamless printing experience. All spools undergo thorough drying for 24 hours before packaging and are vacuum-sealed in resealable foil packaging. To maintain optimal performance, store PETG filament in sealed storage with desiccants (silica gel) or dry for >6 hours at 65 C
- Dimensional Accuracy & ConsistencyAdvanced CCD diameter measuring and self-adaptive control system in the manufacturing insure these tough PLA filaments to be strict tolerances. Diameter 1.75mm, dimensional accuracy (98%) + / - 0.02 mm without any exaggeration
- Wide Compatibility and Color Selection Overture filaments seamlessly integrates with consumer and industrial 3D printers. Explore your creative side with our extensive selection of vibrant colors, ensuring a spectrum of possibilities for your unique creations
- Risk-Free & Lifetime Service Discover worry-free 3D printing with Overture filamentbacked by our lifetime satisfaction service. No matter the challenges, we're here to support you for a seamless 3D printing experience. Trust Overture as your dependable supplier of 3D printing filaments and accessories
Brand: OVERTURE
Material: Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol
Color: Gold
Item Weight: 1 Kilograms
Item Diameter: 1.75 Millimeters
Manufacturer: OVERTURE
Brand: OVERTURE
Item Weight: 2.2 pounds
Package Dimensions: 8.74 x 8.23 x 2.87 inches
Item model number: OVJPLA175
Color: Gold
Material Type: Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol
Number of Items: 1
Size: 1.75 mm Diameter, 1 Kg ( 2.2lb ) Spool
Manufacturer Part Number: OVJPLA175
Date First Available: July 27, 2020
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If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is:
Monday, Jul 7
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View our full returns policy here.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
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Top Amazon Reviews
Color: Purple
Good PETG for the price. It is not too picky on temperature, it prints fine anywhere from 245-255 on my Ender 3 V2. It doesn't bridge very well but that is to be expected for PETG, if you want to bridge I recommend printing at 245 and turning on bridging settings in Cura which makes bridges possible although pretty ugly. Supports work better than bridging, but can be hard to remove because PETG sticks to itself so well. Here are my settings for Ender 3 v2: micro swiss all-metal hotend / original extruder / original bowden tube bltouch leveling probe + yellow springs nozzle 0.4mm 250c bed plain glass + gluestick, 85c first layer speed 10 speed after first layer 30 first layer height: 0.28 layer height after first layer: 0.2 fan: none unless you are trying to bridge, if so use bridge detection to turn fan 100% only for the bridge retraction 3mm @ 30 I find that the biggest struggle with PETG is just getting the first layer to stick and look good. Once you get past the first layer it is usually smooth sailing. If you have problems with the first layer, first of all dry your filament even if it is brand new. It is an easy way to eliminate frustrations. Also go ahead and calibrate your extruder steps and measure your filament diameter and put that into your slicer, again these are easy steps that ensure you will not be fighting under/over extrusion while you are trying to get everything else figured out. Next use glue stick on plain glass and let the glue stick dry. You want the glass to look dull, not shiny, but it also shouldn't feel sticky to the touch. This combo works great for me, it adheres well but not TOO well and the prints pop themselves off when they cool. Lots of people like hairspray too but gluestick works fine for me and is less messy. Finally the #1 most important thing is to adjust your z offset and first layer height. You cannot mush the filament onto the bed like PLA, it needs to fall out of the nozzle and gently lay down onto the bed. Before doing anything with your z-offset I recommend turning your first layer height up to .28 or .3. The reason is that this sets your nozzle higher AND automatically adjusts the flow rate to match. If you just start bumping your z-offset higher and higher, you will be under-extruding by a lot which can cause its own problems. Once you set your first-layer height to .28, then start printing a test print and live-adjust your Z until the lines lay down and stick to the bed, and are neither gooping up onto the nozzle, nor being hit by the nozzle and pulled off the bed. This is tricky because the sweet spot here is TINY. Like within one or 2 micro-adjustments on the z, either side of that you will have issues. But once you hit the sweet spot on the Z you are golden. Then print some bed leveling test prints and adjust your first layer extrusion multiplier or line width if needed so your lines are touching. I recommend always using the bed level print that is CIRCLES when starting off, not squares. The sharp corners on the squares are super unforgiving and will pop off instantly if your settings aren't right. It is easier to use a bed leveling print with circles to dial your settings in without frustrating yourself and needing to restart the print a hundred times. When printing things over 2" tall I recommend using a wide brim because originally I was using skirt and I have had taller prints pop off the bed right as they are nearly finished, I think the reason is due to the lower part of the print cooling off. A brim is cheap insurance against your whole print being ruined at the last moment, and is easy to remove and leaves little trace that it was ever there.
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Reviewed in the United States on August 6, 2021 by haggis
Color: 1 Kg White
I've been using 3d printers for all of 2 week. A couple days ago I decided to try my first non-pla filament, so I bought this because I heard PETG has a great finish, and its a bit more flexible. The first thing you'll notice is that when the material is heated, it can blob up very easy on the nozzle, but I think it's that ability to blob so easily that gives it such a great finish. I've only been using it q couple days, but so far I've gotten great results with 20 mm/s speed, bed starting at 75 then 80 after 2 layers, and nozzle temp at 250. This filament is also known to string easily, but from what I've experienced, this particular type of stringing is easy to clean up, and once you get comfortable with the material, it's easy to resolve. It can have issues sticking to the bed, and get tangled around the nozzle, so you're going to want to keep an eye on it at first. Especially the first few layers. The settings you'll want to pay attention to most are: Retraction - too little and you'll have stringing. Too much, and filament will start pulling melted blobs into the nozzle head and then depositing them on your print. I have mine at 3/30 Nozzle temp/speed: I've had decent results at 235-240, but I could not get them consistently. The last few runs 250 has been the sweet spot at 20-25 mm/s nozzle speed. Because this filament melts at a higher temp, but is also gooey, you'll have to play around a bit with the speed and temp. But the priority shouod be starting off at around 20 qnd 245-250, and then going from there, so you can get used to how this filament flows. Bed temp: 75/80. I lay down 2 layers at 75, and then bump it to 80. I usually do that 5 degree initial difference to help the plastic cool at a more consistent rate. As the nozzle moves further, and more layers are added, the bottom layers can start to shrink on you, and mess the edges up. This, one with the draft shield, an experimental feature in the cura settings, have gone a long way with eliminating that issue. I've seen people say 60 or 65 on the bed overall, but for me, that cools that 1st layer too quick, and the filamemt pops up and gets stuck to my nozzle. In fact, this just happened a few days ago, which somehow led to my motherboard blowing, but luckily creality covered the cost. Last but not least, I think you'll love the feel and finished look of this material. It's a big step up from pla. The fill pattern is not nearly as noticeable through the outer layer, and its much more smooth. It will make you look like you know what you're doing lol Have fun & #PrintOn
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Reviewed in the United States on January 17, 2021 by Chuck
Color: 1 Kg Black
Not sure why everyone is complaining about the filament not working with the Bambu printer. It prints fine once tuned on a texture print bed. I print at 260 deg C and 60 deg C bed. Ensure to bring down the flow rate to 7. You can probably get it to print faster with a higher temp and flow rate but I’m happy with the quality. I’ve gone through over 20kg of black PETG without a problem. Ensure to clean your print bed per the user manual, a blue sponge with dawn dish soap, to ensure print adhesion. Glue stick or any other adhesive will ruin the print adhesion until it’s cleaned. You have been warned.
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Reviewed in the United States on June 17, 2024 by Luis
Color: Digital Blue
Its decent filament. First layer adhesion can be an issue without cranking up the temp to 245, otherwise it works, the tolerance is decent, the color is solid, stringing isnt much of an issue once dialed in.
Reviewed in the United States on August 10, 2024 by MG
Color: Black + White
I ordered this thread to make a saddle horn for a friends horse saddle. There are several reviews that say this PETG thread will not print. This print took 23 hours. Once I set up the printer to place a good proper first layer, it printed perfectly and stuck to the hot bed really well. Actually so well the support separated and stayed on the bed. This has to be strong enough to be able to not break if they drop the saddle on the ground. The two of us pulled in different directions and could not break it. He is in the process of installing it on his saddle. Since printing the Saddle horn I printed 4 extension feet for my laser printer. They all printed perfectly and even after cooling down were perfectly stuck to the bed. Settings: Infill 60% Hotbed 85 Nozzle 245 Speed first layer 60 Speed 80 Economic Off (This should not even be an option because it never works, especially with PLA)
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Reviewed in the United States on May 21, 2024 by Jim Jim