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LG 6,000 BTU High Efficiency Window AC, Cools 250 Sq.Ft. (10' x 25' Room Size), Quiet Operation, Electronic Control with Remote, 3 Cooling & Fan Speeds, 4-Way Air Deflection, Auto Restart, 115V

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Availability: Only 2 left in stock, order soon!
Fulfilled by Way to Divine

Arrives Jun 4 – Jun 10
Order within 8 hours and 19 minutes
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Size: 6,000 BTU


Style: Energy Star w/ Electronic Controls


Features

  • Energy Star Certified - This air conditioner has met the high standards of the ENERGY STAR Program using energy-efficient technologies that translate into electricity savings.
  • Low Noise Performance - operates at sound levels as low as 52dB (in low mode) eliminating unnecessary noise.
  • Multiple Fan Speeds - 3 cooling and fan speeds allow you to customize your cooling.
  • Maximum Usability - Easy to use electronic controls with remote
  • Cools Rooms Up to 260 Sq. Ft - LW6019ER is ideal for cooling medium rooms (13' X 20'')

Description

Cool a lot while you save even more with LG's Energy Star window air conditioner. We’ve got you covered with 6, 000 BTUs that can cool a room up to 260 square feet. With its stylish remote you can even get your cool on from across the room. Three powerful cooling and fan speeds allow you to control the temperature of your room at your own pace. Enjoy the cool air even more with our 4-way air direction. By manually adjusting the louvers, air is directed up, down, left or right to move the air where it’s needed most. When storms, high wind or heat waves cause a power outage, your unit automatically turns back on as the power returns with Auto Restart. Plus, set up is a cinch with our easy-to-use installation kit.


Brand: LG


Cooling Power: 6000 British Thermal Units


Special Feature: Remote control


Product Dimensions: 19.38"D x 19.56"W x 12.38"H


Energy Star: 1 Star


Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER): 12.4


Color: White


Voltage: 115 Volts


Number of Speeds: 3


Floor Area: 260 Square Feet


Product Dimensions: 19.38 x 19.56 x 12.38 inches


Item Weight: 8 ounces


Manufacturer: LG


Item model number: LW6019ER


Warranty Description: 1 year parts and labor


Batteries required: Yes


Included Components: Window air conditioner; remote control; warranty; manual


Floor Area: 260 Square Feet


Voltage: 115 Volts


Frequently asked questions

If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is: Jun 4 – Jun 10

Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.

To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.

View our full returns policy here.

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Top Amazon Reviews


  • R32 and Rotary Compressor - Good unit if you use an outdoor support
Size: 8,000 BTU Style: Energy Star w/ Electronic Controls
I bought 3 of the LG 8000s total, as well as two very expensive Friedrich Kuhl heat pumps to replace a large Lennox Central Heat Pump that failed after 25 years of service... so here is a very long winded review, covering all three of those pretty much. I'll put the info about the LG first for those of you who want only the bare bones of the story, then follow up with the entire documentary. :) FIRST POINT: The LG units are easy to install, even though they do REQUIRE an outside support, bought or made. They are inexpensive to buy at certain times of the year, but my Friedrich units EACH cost 5 times as much or more! I am much happier with the LG than the expensive Friedrich so far, even though I have to use space heaters in those rooms in wintertime. My only regret is that I did not get LG units that included a heat panel to help heat the larger rooms. I am considering when the Friedrich units bite the dust, replacing them with 10K 230V LG units with heat panels for the larger rooms. The 115V heat panels can't heat any better than a cheap space heater and at 230V you can heat twice the area. MORE EFFICENT AND LESS ENVIRONMENTAL CONCERN: Uses R-32 coolant which I understand to be less threatening and more efficient. Additionally it has a rotary compressor which is quieter and and more economical to operate. Various coolants get different opinions expressed depending on what article you read, so I can't verify this information. LESS NOISE: The LG is quieter overall. The big Friedrichs do have quiet fans on LOW and will blow so hard on HIGH that you will think you have a commercial pedestal fan blowing on you. But the Friedrich compressors are LOUD and make strange sounds sometimes... even in the middle of the night they rattle and shut down with a shocking clunk sometimes, and occasionally make a noise like someone sneezing loudly and a scary HISS when the compressor cuts off. The LG just comes on and goes off, no big deal. I don't know much about the rotary compressor, but you can't even hear it go on and off unless you have the fan on low speed. I'm sure that if you went to the same trouble I did to mount it in a window or through the wall, it would be almost as quiet as a mini-split unit. COOLS WELL, EFFICIENTLY: Measuring my LG in comparison to my 10,000 BTU 115V smaller Friedrich, it burns half the electricity to cool the same area. I know because I had to use one of the LG units in there for a month while I was battling Friedrich service centers to fix that unit. I measured their power usage under multiple conditions with my Kill-A-Watt power tester. Yes the LG does come on a little more often to do the job, but still burns less power in a week overall. LG IS NOT AS HEAVY DUTY: But it is also not as heavy in weight... much easier to put in and take out. Some of the knobs and switches and deflectors are a little flimsy, but if you treat them with respect, you shouldn't have problems... time will confirm that, I'm sure. But the one major point here is that the chassis is not as strong and without the outside support bracket (or the cheap-skate version in my photo) there have been reports of the chassis warping to allow fans to rub and make a lot of noise. Plan for that and you'll be satisfied. FANS ARE NOT AS POWERFUL: The LG blows about as much in high speed as the Friedrich blows in medium speed. I don't use the high speed in the bedrooms of course, but if you are trying to cool two rooms with a single unit, you might wish you had more powerful blowers. FAR LESS COMPLICATED: The Friedrich Kuhl models have very complex controls, especially on the remote. You can program them to do all sorts of schedules to turn them on and off, but all of that proved silly to me. Easier to just set the LG and forget it. All of the various modes of the Friedrich end up with you dinking around with the controls far more than the LG units. Plus both of my Friedrichs have trouble maintaining the set temperature, not because of capacity, but because the sensors don't work properly and I have to compensate by several degrees, which is even more trouble due to the heating function. WAY LESS EXPENSIVE TO BUY: The Friedrich units were about 5 times the price of the LG units. Do I expect them to last 5 times as long? In a word NO. Also to consider is that the Friedrichs each weigh 110 pounds, and that will kill you when you have to remove it to take it for service. MY DIY SUPPORT: You can buy the LG outside supports and they are not that expensive, or you can use the less attractive DIY system in my photo. Two scraps of fiber cement plank and a length of 2X4 and you can fine-tune the slant of the unit by simply tilting the 2X4 slightly with a level on top of the unit. MY DETAILED STORY: We have had a Lennox central heatpump for the past 25 years which lost it's ability to heat a few years ago and then the cooling function died at the end of last summer. That was a great heat pump, obviously, and though it lasted a very long time, it was not all that efficient due primarily to the big lie that's told by the central system sellers who always fail to mention that you have to cool/heat the whole house in order to make the system work properly. Central systems require the air to flow as designed in EVERY room for the system to work properly, and frankly, not many people need to cool the whole house 24/7. For just two people, unless we have guests, three of our bedrooms are empty every day, entered only very occasionally to clean up or get something. The doors are always closed. Sadly, if you close off the vents in those rooms, it affects the efficiency and longevity of the overall unit. When the Lennox died, I had estimators come and even with the house already having central ducting, the estimates ranged from $6500 to double that, and not one of those guys offered anything near the quality of the Lennox unit. I first thought I'd like to get the modern “mini-split” units, but this turned out not to be practical either from an installation standpoint or for overall cost of installation. The price for that turned out to be more than for a new central system, but each of the estimators declined because some of the rooms had no good place outside to put the compressor. So I started looking at window or through the wall units. But in considering going to window units (or through the wall), there are many points to think about: 1. They are more noisy. The compressor is right there with the blowing portion, so you will hear that compressor each time it comes on. Larger units make more noise, and that's just logical. 2. Large units are expensive and heavy, and if you need warranty service or repairs later, some service companies will NOT come to your house to even look at them... you'll have to take the unit out and haul it to the repair shop. This could be a good thing or a bad thing... read on please. 3. Smaller units are less expensive, lighter, easier to install and replace. 4. By installing individual units in each room, you get full control over the temperature in each room, rather than having to cool rooms that are never used. Your guests will have control over their own bedroom, which they will appreciate if they like a warm room and you like a cool room or vice versa. Of course this also means you can turn any of the units off to save electricity. 5. Last but a very important point is, when a central a/c system breaks, the whole house is broken. With a window unit, you only have one room in trouble, and you don't have to wait days or weeks to get someone to come and look at it, order parts, then come back to fix it... you just pull it out of the window and take it to the repair shop, or pop in another unit, either new or borrowed from another room. In my experience, having the repairman come to the house multiple times to fix our big Lennox, it would have actually been cheaper to buy a new window unit than the high cost for repairs. So, I did decide to get a mix of window and through the wall units and install them myself. The cost of the units totaled out to about the same as the lowest bid for a central unit UNinstalled, but that brand had so many bad reviews I just couldn't consider buying it. I decided to buy two very high priced Heat Pumps to take care of the areas we use every day and then 3 of these LG 8000 gems to do the seldom used bedrooms. I now wish I'd bought the LG units for the whole house. It would have been cheaper initially and would probably have worked better. I bought Friedrich Kuhl heat pumps at a total cost of about $2500 and installed them myself. They are VERY loud, but also very efficient... but there were problems. Each of them weighed twice as much as the LG units, so it was horrible trying to put them into the places (both required windows to be removed and bolstered to handle the weight, which was too much for the window to support on its own). Plus of course one of them required wiring for 220 volts. One of the Friedrich units did not work properly at first and I had to pull it back out of the wall and haul it 65 miles to get “service” because they “don't allow their boys to take them out of the wall”. So this 76 year old man and his hundred pound wife had to do it for them. I took it to the warranty repair place and had to leave it because they didn't have time to look at it in front of me. I waited nearly a week and called them back and was told there is nothing wrong with the unit (which cooled like a Texas Norther, but did not stop cooling... would freeze you out). I told them I would come and show them the problem, but when I got there, they'd all taken the afternoon off, and the receptionist wanted to CHARGE ME MONEY for testing the “good” unit. In all that brand new unit took a month to get going, many phone calls and emails, trips to two different cities. So no, I will never again buy a central unit OR a big window unit. The little LG 8000 is the perfect a/c because it is light enough for us to lift it and if I have trouble I can't fix, only one room is out of service, and I can actually swap units with another room if important. In fact I can toss the thing in the dump and buy another one cheaper than some of the repairs I've had on big units. CONCLUSION: It almost brings tears to my eyes thinking about my father so many years ago deciding he had to air condition this 100+ year old farm house. He had to have the venting put into the attic, additional wiring installed, and then picked the very best central unit he could find, which involved a large loan to be paid out of his Social Security and small pension... resulting in a lean on the house title. He could have installed window air conditioners with considerably less expense and only used many of the units when there were guests present, as I do. The extra safety factor of having many small units (all the same) is a huge relief, because when one goes down, you just borrow a unit from one of the spare rooms until the broken unit is repaired or replaced. Obviously I fully recommend the LG, but do make sure you buy or make a support for the outside. ABOUT THE PHOTOS: These were taken late last summer (2016) while I had it installed in the livingroom for a month. It was pretty much just stuck in that window while the big Friedrich was having warranty issues. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on August 27, 2016 by Scott Condor Scott Condor

  • Going 5 Years Strong
Size: 6,000 BTU Style: Standard w/ Electronic Controls
Me and my friend had a few laughs at the instruction manual. Aside from all the typos there's some pretty funny warnings written on the first couple of pages in broken English. Installation wasn't too tedious, however when I powered the unit on the compressor only remained active for maybe 30 seconds before going off again. The temperature was set to 60° and it was 78° outside, however the compressor continued to cycle on for no longer than 20-30 seconds and then back off again for 5-10 minutes over and over again. I'll test it out over the next three days since it's supposed to be in the 90s, however if this behavior continues I'm going to be sending it back and getting another unit elsewhere. Update: The compressor is working just fine in the heat. Cools the room very quickly to a comfortable temperature and then shuts off when it's cold in the room. Although it's near 100° out, it's much much cooler in my room. The only thing that worries me is that the unit occasionally crackles and grinds for a split second like there's something stuck inside it, though I've looked inside it several times and see nothing. (The top of the unit is very open and you can easily see inside.) There was even one occasion where the fan ground against something for a second but again, there was nothing inside the chassis for it to come in contact with. It's a little odd but hopefully it's not a sign that it's broken or dying already. I've only had it for two days! This is the second and final edit unless something new comes up. The following is a more in depth review after having owned this for around two weeks. After using it for around two weeks now I've gotten a good feel for how this unit functions. Unfortunately I've encountered a few things about it that will prevent me from giving it anything over a three star rating. The performance is decent. It cools my room quickly to around 60°F and then the compressor goes off for a while. If you're like me and you're comfortable in colder temperatures or like to fall asleep on a 70°F day or night with it being around 50°F in your room then this air conditioner is not for you. If the temperature outside isn't at least 75°-80° or enough to quickly warm the room back up then when the unit has cooled the room to around 60°-ish and the compressor goes off it won't come back on for a long while. Once it does it will run for maybe ten seconds before cycling back off. I have a different window-unit air conditioner in another room that, despite its minimum temperature also being 60°F, will cycle the compressor on and off even when it's 40°-50°F outside to keep the room cold enough that you must sleep with a blanket on. With this unit if the room temperature is not at least around 70° despite also being set to 60° the compressor will not come on and the fan will just blow. From a functionality standpoint I suppose it's working correctly but if you prefer your room super duper cold then you won't achieve that with this unit. The dehumidifying function via the dry setting on the control panel is a joke, not an extra feature or a convenience. The manual claims that when set to 'dry' mode the compressor will run on a preset fan speed to remove moisture from the air without adding any cold air to the room, and will turn off when the set temperature is reached. (That's literally what it says.) it then goes on to say things about how the moisture level in the air will affect what temperature you feel, mentions the heat index in a way that doesn't make sense to anyone that knows anything about meteorology, and then doesn't even mention anything about the humidity level itself in relation to how the unit's dehumidifier works. That first part is how a dehumidifier SHOULD work, however just reading the entire thing in the manual made no sense to me at all. It's worded in such a way that it's supposed to trick people that don't know any better. When dehumidifying the compressor should cycle off when a certain humidity level (%) is reached, not when a certain temperature is reached, and fan speed should not matter. Since the manual was full of typos I figured they'd just typod that bit until I had the pleasure of testing out the 'dry' function on a rainy 70°F day while everything was damp from all the water in the air. Just as I expected you were able to adjust temperature on the control panel and not humidity level, and it was exactly the same thing as setting the unit to 'energy saver' with the fan speed on low. Cold air was most definitely added to the room as I knew it would be given there was no way the air could be heated back up after passing through the evaporator coil (that's what an actual dehumidifier would do) and after only a few seconds of running the compressor cycled off and the unit went to sleep0 the same way it does when it's on energy saving mode and it's cooled the room to around 60°. Every couple of minutes the fan would kick on on low to check the room temperature and then shut back off after a few seconds because the room had been cooled and not dehumidified. The build quality is very cheap. The screws for assembly are unreasonably pointy and will poke you rather painfully through their plastic packaging if you don't literally handle them like they're newborn kittens. Any squeezing at all when lifting the bag of screws and brackets and you can guarantee yourself a few pokes to the fingers and palms. The metal exterior of the air conditioner is noticeably soft and the internal components appear to be very cheap as well. Because the unit is so open you're easily able to see down inside of both the front and the back. The entire wall behind the front facing fan and evaporator coil appears to be made of styrofoam. It's bumpy and sparkly and you don't even need to touch it (which I didn't) to know that it's foam. The fan motor in the back of the unit also appears to be zip tied to the compressor for some reason. I may upload pictures of all this in the near future but right now it's almost 2 in the morning. Regardless of however cheaply built the unit appears to be it works, at least for now. The curtains do not provide a good seal at all, and during the colder winter nights you can actually feel the cool air rushing in around the top and sides of them if you hold your hand anywhere near them. This is because the curtains themselves, for whatever reason, are able to be slid in and out of their frames by sliding them down and out before screwing them into the side of the unit. As a result they're smaller than the frames and leave a little gap in the top and sides underneath the lip of the curtain frames that you won't be able to see unless you look up from below. Hot air, cold air, and definitely bugs if you turn on your light during the night are able to easily slip through those gaps and enter your room. I sealed the gaps by covering the curtains entirely with duct tape but it's up to you how you want to handle it. The problem is not with my particular window, it's with the design of the curtains. The area between the curtain frames and my window are sealed up tight as can be, the problem is in the area between the curtain frames and the curtains. Lastly, we have the remote control. The remote is only useful for the power button and nothing more. Due to the angle of the control panel and the fact that it's on the top of the unit, you have no idea what you're doing when you're laying in bed and want to change how the unit is behaving aside from outright turning it off. If you want a different temperature, delay-off time, or mode then you have to get up and do it manually because it's impossible to know what you're doing unless for some reason your bed is high enough off the ground to see the top of the air conditioner. I'm pretty certain that's all I have to say about this particular unit for now. If something else comes to mind or happens that's worth mentioning I'll definitely do so, but as of right now I think I've covered everything. Because it does keep the room cool when it's scorching hot outside it deserves at least a three star rating, but that's all I'm giving it. Final update (for real this time): After using this for several years I've learned a bit more about it. If the temperature outside is near or below 60 the compressor behaves differently, likely to protect itself from damage, and your room may not cool as much as you'd like. The temperature outside determines how cold your room gets as much as the temperature in your room does. The hotter it is outside the colder your room will be, and if it's in the 90s or mid 80s outside the compressor will run almost continously and you'll need a sweater or jacket if you want to keep it running. I like that sort of cold so it works well for me. It will keep your room around 60 degrees regardless, but if the temperature outside is well below that don't expect the compressor to fire too often. That makes sense though. It can easily be damaged from running in low temperatures. In the winter the insulation sucks. I might as well have left the window wide open. You'll want to take it out of your window in the winter. Other than that I don't have any complaints. It's been going strong for several years now and I'm happy with it. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on May 17, 2017 by Dallas

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