Kinter MA170+ 2-Channel Auto Home Cycle Arcade DIY 2 x 18 W Mini Amplifier Bass Treble RCA Input Audio Mini Amplifier with 12V 3A Power Supply Black
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Availability:
In Stock.
Arrives
Monday, Jun 30
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Features
- Adjustable bass and treble for lifelike sound
- Pulsating LEDs change color
- Extruded aluminum housing with mounting tabs great for Arcade Sound
- RCA Left and Right inputs
- INCLUDES 12V 3A POWER SUPPLY
- 2 x 18 Watts - Stereo Output for most audio applications
- Please note: This unit accepts RCA Left/Right analog input from most audio sources and does not provide wireless audio input (such as Bluetooth).
Item dimensions L x W x H: 4.3 x 3.5 x 1.9 inches
Voltage: 12 Volts
Manufacturer: KINTER
Maximum Supply Voltage: 14.4 Volts (DC)
Minimum Supply Voltage: 9 Volts (DC)
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer : No
Product Dimensions : 4.3 x 3.5 x 1.9 inches; 8.3 ounces
Item model number : MA170+
Date First Available : April 8, 2018
Manufacturer : KINTER
Country of Origin : USA
Best Sellers Rank: #18,206 in Electronics (See Top 100 in Electronics) #63 in Audio Component Amplifiers
#63 in Audio Component Amplifiers:
Customer Reviews: 4.3 4.3 out of 5 stars 1,790 ratings
Frequently asked questions
If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is:
Monday, Jun 30
Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
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Top Amazon Reviews
UPDATE #2, April 7, 2024: I am bumping this to 5 Stars, why? Kinter reached out to me and offered a FULL REFUND of my Amp, Kinter MA170. I didn't expect any sort of refund, after all, the unit was Waaaay past the 30 day return window. However, Kinter DID NOT want me to return it, apologized for the error of my getting a refurbished unit and not a new one. I actually told them I didn't expect or even want a full refund, but would accept a 50% refund, so after a message or 2 between Kinter and myself, Kinter gave me a 100% refund. This was, and is way above your normal customer service, it shows me Kinter cares about their product line, and their customers satisfaction. I also told Kinter what the main cause of the issue causing the Amp to randomly turn off/on, or just shut down was, that the Amp heatsink was too long, that it needed to be shimmed down by 2/32 of an inch to prevent contact with the Amp IC leads. Kinter also stated they upgraded the Amp IC, which is a little smaller, but they still used the same heatsink from the older Amp IC. And the person I messaged with is also passing my heatsink fix on to the manufacturer for implentation. Hence the shorting issue that occurred in my Amp, that caused the issues I had will be corrected. Which I had fixed, info on the fix can be found in my April 1, 2024 UPDATE below. So, this is why I am bumping my review of the Amp to 5 stars. Also, after correcting the oversized heatsink, so it no longer made contact with the Amp IC leads, I let my Amp operate continually in my shed for 6 days NON-STOP, in those 6 days, the Amp operated 100% normally, no drop outs, no shut downs, no random going off/on. Now that my fix is in place, the Amp has functioned far exceeding my expectations. So, yes, I can recommend this Amp and this Seller. Top notch 1st rate customer service that was above and beyond. ======= END April 7, 2024 UPDATE #2 ======= UPDATE April 1, 2024: I am bumping this up to 3 stars, mainly due to I found the PRIMARY ISSUE causing many of these units to stop working, or going off/on randomly when music is being output through the amp. And it is a simple fix, but WILL REQUIRE you to open the unit and take it apart, and I'll tell you what I found, and what I did to correct the issue. I removed all 10 screws, 4 from back panel, 4 on front panel, 2 screws from right side[these screws are a different size and type, they secure the main case housing through the amp IC heatsink, don't mix them up with the other 8 screws that hold the back and front faceplates to the main case!] You'll need to remove all knobs to access the securing nut on each, the main volume knob nut is recessed and will require a deep socket, or long needle nose pliars[I used needle nose pliars] to remove it[and the other nuts on the Bass and Treble components], beware, once you remove the nuts, the Bass and Treble knobs have a securing ring[slips on/off] on them behind the faceplate. Don't lose them, you'll need to put them back on the Bass and Treble knobs BEFORE reinstalling the faceplate over the shafts. Do this step[remove knobs and retaining nuts] PRIOR to removing the screws that holds the faceplate on. Once the nut has been removed from the volume control, slide the clear plastic ring off the shaft, there are 2 small protrusions on the back of this plastic piece, either one fits over the power indicator RGB color changing L.E.D. to hold it in place properly. Once opened you can change out this L.E.D. for any color L.E.D. you'd like to use, just make sure the polarity matches correctly + to +, - to -, or remove the L.E.D. entirely, your choice. Now remove the 4 screws holding the faceplate to the main casing, if you have already removed the 4 back screws, and now have the front faceplate removed, gently slide, by pushing the entire assembly minus faceplate out the back of the main case. You'll see a metal casing over the Amp IC, this is the heatsink that screws to the main casing. And this heatsink is what caused my unit to initially fail! After touching up some of the solder areas, I tested the Amp, but forgot to place the heatsink back over the Amp IC. The Amp played for over an hour, no issues UNTIL I realized I had not placed the heatsink back over the Amp IC, as soon as I put the heatsink on, less than a few seconds the Amp started randomly going off/on, or completely off, started up all over again. I used the needle nose pliars to place, and remove the heatsink. Okay, issue is back...why? I found the heatsink was making contact with the EXPOSED METAL LEADS of the Amp IC. I got out my dremel tool and shimmed the heatsink down 2/32" at ONLY THE AREA THAT COVERS THE AMP IC! DO NOT SHIM THE WINGS WHERE THE SCREW HOLES ARE! So, I took my dremel tool[adjustable speed, set it at #1 on the dial] and then ground off 2/32 of an inch of metal off the [open area that slides down over the Amp IC] heatsink, replaced the heatsink, no more random onn/off, no more Amp turning off all sound. Chances are THIS IS THE MAIN PROBLEM many users are having with this Amp cutting off/on, then going completely silent, but the power L.E.D. still shows power to the Amp. If you're not comfortable soldering, or using power tools to do this, find a friend, or pay someone to do this for you. But, if you have an Amp malfunctioning like this, this may get it working again, providing the heatsink shorting the Amp IC hasn't destroyed it. Fortunately I caught this early in my testing, and was able to resolve it before the Amp IC was destroyed. As of this update, and after shimming the heatsink down, so it can no longer make contact with the bare metal leads of the Amp IC, the Amp has been working perfectly 100% for over 9 hours straight and no problems at all, and inside a very hot storage shed, about 97°-100° in there today[no windows, no ventilation and door closed]. If the heatsink was shimmed down by 2/32 of an inch at the manufacturing facility, and/or the Amp IC's leads had been covered so the heatsink couldn't create a short, I probably would have never taken my Amp apart to fix this issue, as it, in all probability may not have ever happened! If it wasn't for my having to fix this issue, I'd have probably rated this Amp 5 stars, but it gets 3 stars, it works, but only BECAUSE I FOUND, and FIXED the problem! I hope this info may help some of those experiencing these same issues get their Amp back up and operational again. ≈========/ End April 1, 2024 Update ========= Unfortunately my return window closed a long while back[bought this at end of Dec. 2023] and just now got around to testing it out, and I connected everything up for testing BEFORE I mounted this in the enclosure it was be going in with an MP3 Director and FM Transmitter, only the MP3 Director would be connected to the Amp. Well, I set it up using a portable CD player[testing only] to the Amp, and connected the 8-ohm outdoor speakers I use every year for my Holiday Displays. Connected power supplies, turned on Amp, turned on CD Player, turned up volume on Amp, had preset Bass and Treble knobs to center, music played through the Amp, then in LESS THAN 1 MINUTE AFTER TURNING AMP ON, music started going off/on at random, this went on for LESS THAN ANOTHER MINUTE, then the AMP JUST SHUT DOWN COMPLETELY WITH NO SOUND AT ALL. Turned power off and back on, amp played on/off music for LESS THAN 30 SECONDS, and then COMPLETELY SHUT DOWN AGAIN, NO SOUND, just that annoying RGB L.E.D. showing power, but nothing else functioned. Now I was an electronic tech/touch-up and repair person for many years, refurbished many things in my time, and I know what to look for to know if an item has been REFURBISHED, [I NEVER BUY REFURBISHED PRODUCTS, MOST OFTEN THEY FAIL QUICKLY, usually just past their warranty period, some never make it that far, refurbished items ARE NOT Q.C.'ed or tested like new products are(or should be), they are "Quick-Tested", power it on, it works, out it goes for resale, or back to the original customer.] Anyway, I opted to take this unit apart, one of the knob shafts was broken and fixed with a type plastic substance to make the knob hold the button on, when I took the button off for taking this apart, that plastic used was white, shaft was black!, and this substance cracked and splintered some. That's one tale-tell sign of a refurbished hack job, the component should have been replaced, not a jury rig fix. Missing solder on solder pads that may be used to hold components in place to prevent damage from movement was also noticable on the circuit board, very poor Q.C., even for a Quick Turn-Around repair. After, I took it apart, did some resoldering to many components, and used a computer fan to keep the amp component cool, it seems to work. But I shouldn't have to be modifying this unit! Before I reassemble it, I'm going to replace that damn annoying color changing L.E.D. to a white one, so it can supply some light inside the outdoor enclosure, so, when opened after dark to make changes, I'll have some lighting, as my lighting controller[the MP3 Director] and FM Transmitter will also be inside. I will also see if there is enough room to install a small cooling fan inside the amps case and drill holes for it to push any excessive heat out to hopefully keep it functional. But because I DID NOT RECEIVE A BRAND NEW UNIT, was sent a REFURBISHED ONE. REFURBISHED UNITS ARE SUPPOSED TO BE IDENTIFIED with a tag or sticker stating this fact! . And from reading many of the reviews that also bring these same issues up, sounds like they got a REFURBISHED unit, just like I did, and NOT A NEW UNIT! Very disappointed in this purchase, especially since I have to try and repair it, and "hope it works", and "hopefully, will last for many years" after I fix problems that should not have been here in the first place!
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Reviewed in the United States on March 31, 2024 by Cataptra
I purchased this box because I bought a set of book shelf speakers from a thrift store and needed it to power some speakers for my projector. Such that I used this milk crate box to built a stand and put a tripod mount on it, to use for my pocket sized projector. The tripod shipped with the pocket sized projector tips over. I initially had two sets of PC multimedia speakers but the projector has a very weak aux output and despite those speakers being amplified it just was very loud for movies. So I used a headphone amplifier box and a headphone splitter cable to increase the volume output and works on any speakers that has the aux cable for it's audio connection. But you can't power the old school book shelf speakers from a headphone amplifier box, and you simply cannot connect a speaker wire adapter cable to a male to male aux cable. So this box acts as the radio module and does what the receiver units did, they powered the big box speakers. On the back there is one set of speaker wire terminals. Most models offer Bluetooth connectivity so that you can pair your phone to the vintage 1980/1990 era speakers. As portable Bluetooth speakers tend to be 6 to 12 watts and won't fill a large garage or backyard barbecue lol as sound drops by half for movies and when used outside. Now the bookshelf speakers I bought had the RCA male cable, but the stereo amplifier box has speaker wire terminals To use these book shelf speakers, I ordered from Amazon, RCA female cable to speaker wire connector-adaptor, that all you do is twist the speaker wire to the RCA female plugs; because these stereo amplifier boxes, have the speaker wire terminals as the output. To input the sound, in this case, from my projector's rear aux port with a splitter cable coming from the top and another one used from the headphone amplifier box....the stereo amplifier box has aux based input. These speakers got popsickle sticks super glued and painted, and I zip tied each set to this milk crate box. And I got an outdated smart Blu-ray player glued to some shelving I put in. All this along with USB powered light bars, adds weight. The "stand" is like a time capsule but non Bluetooth based external speaker system that I can carry around and set up in the rooms, or my SUV 😂 and with a small multi plug outlet and USB port, I can run it off of one 3 way extension cord and off of the inverter. But case in point, I purchased this for my project. While I have a big jobsite radio but I'm not going to use that because it's big and wanted something simple and space saving.
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Reviewed in the United States on February 21, 2024 by Kyle Alvis
Generally a solid product. Good audio quality, does what it needs to do, small, and easy to set up. If you don't need anything fancy like a remote, it's all you need to pipe stereo RCA audio to some passive speakers. Unfortunately, all of the rear connections are very flimsily connected to the board on the inside. The RCA inputs and speaker inputs mitigate this by being screwed into the backplate, but the power connector lacks any such feature. You wouldn't expect this to be an issue, but on my unit, a less than 24 inch fall from a table to a soft carpeted floor while plugged in was enough to make the power connector port loose. It still generally works, but you sometimes have to play around with the power cable, sometimes just pushing it down and sometimes removing and reconnecting it, to get it working again. The vibration coming from the speakers being on the same table can be enough to knock it out.
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Reviewed in the United States on April 28, 2025 by _
Fantastic little volume controller for small speakers or a 40 watt-ish transducer! Make sure you have the correct adapters for the back of the unit to pair with your gear. Tiny amount of line noise, but if you are playing back frequencies into a transducer to vibrate an object, or always playing music, it won't bother most people.
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Reviewed in the United States on April 14, 2025 by Technically Literate
This 2 channel amp was exactly what I was looking for. The amp is powering a home theater subwoofer and it increased the bass significantly. Great product!
Reviewed in the United States on April 29, 2025 by Carlos
Don't miss the movie theater. Only ever used volume 5 on my Samsung TV. Very powerful sound. excellent
Reviewed in the United States on April 13, 2025 by Dorane