Gila Heat Control Light Gray Adhesive Residential DIY Window Film Sun Blocking 3ft x 15ft (36in x 180in)
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Availability:
In Stock.
Arrives
Saturday, Jun 7
Size: 36" x 15'
Features
- Gila Light Gray Window Film is an intelligently-designed heat control window film that increases comfort and can reduce cooling costs
- This adhesive-based film is engineered to provide a fast, easy installation that adheres firmly to flat glass surfaces
- INCREASED COMFORT: Reduces glare up to 53%, making interiors more comfortable
- PROTECTS INTERIORS: Blocks up to 99% of UV rays, helping to keep your interior from fading
- EASY INSTALL, LASTING RESULTS: Durable adhesive material is easy to handle and firmly sticks to windows for ongoing benefits
- NEARLY INVISIBLE: Good optical clarity from our lightest film tint available
- ENERGY EFFICIENT: Rejects up to 57% of Solar Energy, keeping your house cool
Description
Gila Light Gray Window Film is an intelligently-designed heat control window film that increases comfort and can reduce cooling costs. It combines advanced heat- and glare-rejecting technologies to create our lightest film tint (as compared to other Gila Heat Control films). This adhesive-based film is engineered to provide a fast, easy installation that adheres firmly to flat glass surfaces. It's hassle-free and perfect for DIY projects-no professional installation required! This unique film reflects UV rays while allowing in natural light and maintaining your view of the outside. It's energy-efficient, too. Blocking heat can lead to lower cooling costs and increase the comfort in rooms with direct sunlight. From the Manufacturer Gila films are the brand leader in DIY (do it yourself) window films. Our best in class deep dyeing, coating, and adhesive technologies have helped design higher performing, longer lasting films that are among the best in the marketplace. We manufacture and package our films at our world class manufacturing facility located in Martinsville, VA USA in order to measure and ensure tight quality and performance standards from start to finish.
Brand: Gila
Color: Gray
Size: 36" x 15'
Product Dimensions: 180"L x 36"W
Ultraviolet Light Protection: True
Manufacturer: Gila
Part Number: 50146267
Item Weight: 1 pounds
Country of Origin: China
Item model number: 50146267
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer: No
Size: 36" x 15'
Color: Gray
Item Package Quantity: 1
UV Protection: True
Included Components: Installation Instructions, Window Film Roll (3ft x 15ft)
Batteries Included?: No
Batteries Required?: No
Warranty Description: Limited warranty against manufacturing defects. Replacement at no charge with submission of valid warranty claim.
Date First Available: September 9, 2006
Frequently asked questions
If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is:
Saturday, Jun 7
Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
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Top Amazon Reviews
Size: 36" x 15'
My house has a eight south facing windows in our main room. They're older, contractor grade and would heat up a ton when in direct sunlight. My upstairs was basically the same temp as outside from the heat coming through those windows and flowing up. So far, I've done six of them with this product, and plan to do the rest, and my north windows as well. I have a couple observations for anyone considering doing this. First, you can totally do it by yourself if the window is less than 3ft tall, or less than 2ft wide but tall. The instructions on the box suck, watch the video and read the paper copy hidden in the roll of film. Surface prep is important. Use windex, a microfiber towel (get a bulk pack) and a disposable razor to get everything off the glass including the corners. Do all the prep before you start working with the film. I started trying to do all my cuts and stuff on the kitchen island, but ended up working on the tile/epoxy floor for logistical reasons. When you unroll the film, unroll it with the adhesive cover side up, and the film against the ground. Use some packing tape, or double stick tape and attach the film side to the ground on one end (the top). Unroll as much length as you need and use something to hold the free end of the film down. I used a wooden yard stick. Cut your length and put the roll away. The soap solution works well, is clear and doesn't stain anything so don't worry about spilling it on anything. After spraying the window liberally, I started removing the protective cover at the side I had attached to the ground (the top), spraying soap solution liberally every 3-4 inches of unrolling. (as others have said, packing tape handle on the film, packing tape handle on the cover, pull apart works great.) Since the adhesive is exposed, it's important to turn off any fans, and keep the adhesive wet. After the protective layer is removed, the soap weighs enough to keep the section from coiling back up. Since you cut a section larger than your window, I'd start installation by grab the film corners (on the bottom of the section) directly touching the adhesive. Pick it up while you stand up, and detach the tape from the floor. Go to your window, line up the film edge you're holding slightly above the top of the window and stick it on. Since your film section is larger than the window, and you're going to trim off the excess anyway, I focused more on getting a good fit in the middle of the window and squeegeeing my way to the edge before trimming off the excess with the cutter tool they sell and then doing touch ups. A rubber squeegee helps a lot here, but you can absolutely do it with a credit card, or the tool. I kept a couple microfiber cloths around to help mop up the excess soap that I was pushing out during the process and that helped a ton. At first i was really paranoid about accidentally trimming too much/to early but in practice I haven't found that to be an issue. Once the center is adhered well, trim the top, keep squeegeeing, trim the left, trim the right, trim the bottom and keep squeegeeing. I had to modify that routine for a couple windows and start trimming on the left and right due to gravity, but at the end of the day, as long as the center is adhered, the film isn't going to shift while you're removing air bubbles or excess fluid. I think using a rubber squeegee for the first pass, getting everything adhered, and shifting to a card squeegee is probably your best bet. My first window was too small for my rubber squeegee, so I did the 1.5ftx6ft window with just the card squeegee. It took a while, but at the end of the day it worked. Figuring out your work space for removing the layer from the adhesive is the hardest part, but again; Be liberal with the soap and don't worry about making a mess. It's dye free, and will not stain anything. For my upstairs, I realized I'm going to need to use some folding tables as my workspace due to only having carpet up here. In terms of real world results, so far I've noticed a significant reduction in heat already. It's 96F outside right now, and it would normally be 90ish up here, but it's only 85F. I need to work on the attic of course, but every little bit helps, and it's practically an invisible upgrade. Any weekend DIYer or professional home owner can do this; just follow the actual instructions not the abbreviated ones on the box. I used the legit installation tools/solutions for what it's worth. EDIT: I started with the 18ft rolls, and ended up ordering a 100ft roll after some additional windows got slated for film coverage. The 18ft rolls are pretty unwieldy but the 100ft roll comes on a giant spool like a roll of aluminum foil. I was worried the 100ft was going to come loose, but it's well packaged on the spool. I would suggest getting a single 18ft roll, to try it out, and then get a 100ft spool for the bulk of your project.
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Reviewed in the United States on August 13, 2023 by Anon
Size: 36" x 100'
I bought an older home that was a bit of an efficiency disaster. Old and inadequate insulation, single pane windows, poor attic venting were my biggest offenders. I knew windows were expensive, but I wasn't expecting to get a $20k quote back FOR A SINGLE ROOM. Sure, it has several 8' x 4' picture windows, but the ROI for the windows was not going to be anytime inside of my lifetime. I got a company to give me a quote on low-e film installation, and it was not reasonable either (in my opinion). I purchased Gila Heat Control Light Gray Adhesive Residential DIY Window Film, a starter application kit, several extra bottles of solution, and decided to do it myself. After putting this film on several windows and doors, I have some observations. First of all, the film is great. Once installed, the film dramatically cuts down on the heat the heat the windows were previously responsible for. With no other changes the film dropped my electricity bill by about $150/mo. in the summer months. That's a very large, energy inefficient house in Houston's sun - YMMV. Second, this film has the nice side benefit of stopping indoor sun bleaching of flooring and fabrics. Third, this film does tint the windows and cut down on some of the visible light. This doesn't bother me, but it is something to keep in mind if you are big on your natural light. Finally, the film is more or less reflective from the outside when the outdoor light exceeds the indoor light... and it's not reflective at all when it's brighter indoors. So, now that you know what it will do for you, let's get into the installation. The film comes on a large roll, and it helps to keep the box as a dispenser. Aside from protecting the film, it does act as a bit of a straight edge for cutting off of the roll. When you actually want to install some film, you will clean the window as well as you can, being sure to make sure no lint or fibers are left behind. Gila has an installation starter kit with a good cloth to use for this. You will also want to make sure that you install the film when it's light outside, BUT WHEN NO DIRECT SUNLIGHT IS ON THE WINDOW! This is very important, as it makes it very difficult to keep enough of the solution between the film and the glass. Having ambient light makes it much easier to see bubbles. I installed about half of my windows only cutting the film to length, but have found it easier to cut the pieces to the approximate length and width (especially for deep sills). You can use tape to peel apart the backing from the film. It really helps to have two people fir the installation, but I did most of my windows alone. You spray the window with the application solution (from the top down, as it flows down anyway), but you have to be quick about it. Once you've placed the film, you squeegee the air bubbles and solution out from the top-middle, out the sides, and then down the center and out the sides (bit by bit, down the length). The solution and the squeegee are also in the starter kit, though I'm sure there are other options. After wiping down the excess solution at the window frame, I trim the film back to about 1/4" from the edge of the glass. I use a metal straight edge that's backed in cork, so it doesn't scratch the film. The metal part is handy because I use a razor blade to trim the film. I DON'T use the cutter in the starter kit, because it's awful. Glass is very had and will dull your razor quickly... change the razor out pretty frequently. I leave a 1/4" margin because of how my windows are secured into the frame. There's adhesive that makes the surface irregular at the very edge, plus you do need some room to get the excess solution out. Depending on your windows, you may leave smaller margins, but I'd resist the urge to go all the way to the edge, as it may peel or bubble at the edge with thermal expansion and contraction of the glass. The smaller the glass surface, the easier it will be to apply the film. For anything over 8 sqft, I'd recommend having another person on hand. I did several of the 8' x 4' picture windows by myself (with a 48" Gila roll), and I did it by peeling back the backing only at the top of the sheet. Once the top was placed, I temporarily taped it in place. I peeled the backing down the sheet a foot at a time, spraying behind the film as I went. You can do it, but I'd be lying if I said it was easy or time efficient. Bribe a friend with a pizza or alcohol and it will go much faster, and probably with better results. What's a bad result? Well, I ended up junking about 5 windows worth of film. I accidentally creased the film. I accidentally had the film's adhesive contact another part of the film's adhesive (which creates a surface imperfection you can't do anything about), I accidentally cut a piece too small, and I had bubbles I couldn't do anything about post-installation. Almost all of these problems can be avoided by using two people. Sometimes, though, stuff happens... and that's when you're glad you bought a hundred feet of this stuff. Personally, I think this is a no-brainer for anyone who doesn't already have low-e windows. I would buy the installation kit, and 2 extra bottles of solution per 100' roll. An extra squeegee is a good idea if you've got help. The only reason I've only given a conditional recommendation is because installation isn't easy. If you've got two people, and you follow what I've written above, it's not really all that HARD either. The main thing to keep in mind is that not everyone does tasks like this well. It's sort of like the subset of the population that has problems assembling Ikea furniture. I suspect there may be a convergence on the Venn diagram. However, if you've done basic home DIY stuff before, you can probably do this, too. I just suggest starting with smaller windows and refining your technique on those. Conditionally recommended.
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Reviewed in the United States on July 8, 2019 by C. Okamuro
Size: 36" x 15'
This film definitely cuts down on the heat that comes through the window via sunlight and warms up the room - that cooking feeling you get when you stand in front of a window on a bright sunny day. This UV reduction will keep the room a little cooler and more comfortable-it's clearly better than before, and was worth the time to apply. It does darken the windows just a bit, giving them a slight bluish tinge, but you probably will not notice it much unless you have a window without the film in the same room, and frankly, the cutdown on glare is a plus. Note that this only cuts down on the UV heat-and that's all it is designed to do - it does NOT do anything about the heat (or cold in winter) that directly travels though a window surface because you have an old single-paned window with gaps around it. Touch the window and it will still feel hot, and you'll still feel warmer near the window, just without the "cooking feel". Application was not difficult, but requires meticulous preparation and carefulness. Proper preparation means cleaning with window cleaner multiple times, and scraping off any stick-on dirt and paint flecks with a razor. Cleaning up the window edges of dust and paint is critical as well-you want a pretty clean edge all the way around. Each bit of dust or dirt or paint on the window will cause a bubble in the film, and if the edges of the window are not clean, the edges of the film might not stick down to the glass. You will still probably end up with a few specks of dirt or dust on there under the film, despite your best efforts-if it's going to upset you that it's not 100% perfect you might not want to apply this film at all or get a pro. Overall, if you don't take the time to clean and scrape and search for dirt, it will come out terrible. If you do, it should come out pretty well.
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Reviewed in the United States on September 14, 2015 by Techie Gal