DB Electrical AFD0103 New Alternator For Ford Excursion 6.0L 6.0 Diesel 03 04 05 2003 2004 2005 8306, 6.0L 6.0 Diesel Ford F150 F250 F350 Pickup Excursion 03 04 05 2003 2004 2005 334-2532 400-14062
Condition: New
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Availability:
In Stock.
Arrives
Monday, Jun 1
Features
- Specs: Unit Type: Alternator, Voltage: 12, Rotation: CW, Amperage: 110, Clock: 2:30, Pulley Class: S8, Regulator: IR, Fan Type: IF
- Replaces OEM Numbers: AC DELCO: 334-2532, ARROWHEAD (OEM): BAL7605X, ARROWHEAD (OLD): AFD0154, ARROWHEAD: AFD0103, BARSANCO: 120-8306, DIXIE: A-2069, A-2090, DIXIE NEW: 102-06120, DUBOIS: 908306, FAMILY: 6GIF, FORD: 3C3T-10300-AA, 3C3T-10300-AC, 3C3T-10300-EA, 3C3Z-10346-AA, 3C3Z-10346-EA, 4C3T-10300-AA, 4C3Z-10346-AA, 5C2T-10300-CA, 5C2Z-10346-CA, 6C2T-10300-CA, 6C2Z-10346-CA, J & N: 400-14062, LESTER: 8306, 8445, MINNPAR: 47-1995, MOTORCRAFT: GL-551, GL-557, GL-569, GL-630, GL-649
- Compatible with/Replacement For: FORD: E-SERIES VANS 2004-2008, EXCURSION 2003-2005, F-250 SUPER-DUTY 2003-2005, F-350 SUPER-DUTY 2003-2005
- Trusted Seller: DB Electrical is your go-to seller for quality and reliability. With a strong reputation for excellence, we offer a wide range of premium products backed by our exceptional customer service. Shop with confidence knowing that you are buying from a seller who values your business and strives to exceed your expectations.
Description
Specs: Unit Type Alternator, Part Type UNIT, Voltage 12, Rotation CW, Amperage 110, Clock 2:30, Pulley Class S8, Regulator IR, 8-GROOVE PULLEY, 69mm OD, Interchanges:FORD 3C3T-10300-AA, 3C3T-10300-AC, 3C3T-10300-EA, 3C3Z-10346-AA, 3C3Z-10346-EA, 4C3T-10300-AA, 4C3Z-10346-AA, 5C2T-10300-CA, 5C2Z-10346-CA, 6C2T-10300-CA, 6C2Z-10346-CAMOTORCRAFT GL-551, GL-557, GL-569, GL-630, GL-649 Applications:FORD E-SERIES VANS 2004-08 6.0L(363) V8 DieselFORD EXCURSION 2003-05 6.0L(363) V8 DieselFORD F-250 SUPER-DUTY 2003-05 6.0L(363) V8 DieselFORD F-350 SUPER-DUTY 2003-05 6.0L(363) V8 DieselFORD F-350 SUPER-DUTY 2004 6.8L(415) V10FORD Medium Heavy-Duty Trucks E-450 Super-Duty 2004-07 Ford 6.0L(363) V8 DslFORD Medium Heavy-Duty Trucks F-450 Super-Duty 2003-07 Ford 6.0L(363) V8 DslFORD Medium Heavy-Duty Trucks F-550 Super-Duty 2003-07 Ford 6.0L(363) V8 Dsl
Manufacturer: DB Electrical
Brand: DB Electrical
Model: 400-14062
Item Weight: 14.08 pounds
Product Dimensions: 5.71 x 4.91 x 5.05 inches
Item model number: AFD0103
Exterior: Machined
Manufacturer Part Number: 400-14062
OEM Part Number: AC DELCO 334-2532; ARROWHEAD AFD0103; ARROWHEAD (OEM) BAL7605X; FORD 3C3T-10300-AA, 3C3T-10300-AC, 3C3T-10300-EA, 3C3Z-10346-AA, 3C3Z-10346-EA, 4C3T-10300-AA, 4C3Z-10346-AA, 5C2T-10300-CA, 5C2Z-10346-CA, 6C2T-10300-CA, 6C2Z-10346-CA; FORD ENGINEERING 3C3T-AA, 3C3T-AC, 3C3T-EA, 4C3T-AA, 5C2T-CA, 6C2T-CA; J & N 400-14062; LESTER 8306, 8445; MOTORCRAFT GL-551, GL-557, GL-569, GL-630, GL-649; REMY REMAN AR109790, AR109792, AR109889; VISTEON HB, HQ, KB, KC; WAI 1-2531-11FD, 8306N.
Date First Available: April 27, 2012
Frequently asked questions
If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is:
Monday, Jun 1
Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
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Top Amazon Reviews
It started as a problem with starting my F-250 in the fall. I decided that my problem was the battery I bought from Walmart about 1.5 yr ago. It was guaranteed by Walmart for 5 yr so I took it back, it tested slightly under spec so Walmart replaced the battery. The truck still didn't want to start easily when the temp fell below ~ 50 degrees F. so I took it to my mechanic. He said that everything tested out fine but that I probably should replace the older second battery as well. I had him change out the fuel filters and change the oil, which it needed anyway. The fuel filters looked a little coated so I thought my problem was solved. Headed over to Sutherlands building supply a couple of days later to buy some plywood and the truck would not start in the parking lot following my plywood purchase. My wife came to rescue me with our Explorer and some jumper cables. It took about 15 minutes to charge the system enough to start the truck. As soon as I was back on the road everything went down hill very quickly. My ABS light came on and suddenly the dash went out completely. I made a turn and my signal light worked a couple of times and then it went out as well. When I was about a mile and half from home the engine quit. My wife had followed me home so the Explorer was hooked up again and took about half an hour this time to start. I finally made it home but not before the dash went out again. I limped into the drive way and hooked the batteries up for a trickle charge overnight. There is no amp meter gauge on the dash but there is an idiot light (symbol for a battery) which had actually never lit up until the next morning. The truck started and seemed to run fine but when I pressed on the accelerator pedal and the revs came up just over idle the idiot light came on. Slowed back to idle the light went out. I searched on the web and found out that this is an issue with F-250's (and 350's) when they get over 90 K miles on them and I am at about 138 K. The alternator will become faulty. It will produce enough electricity to keep the idiot light out but will not be enough charge the system so I went in search of an alternator and decided to do the replacement myself since my mechanic had not been very helpful so far. I just received this alternator yesterday. The truck has been sitting for about four days since I last charged the battery. I viewed several videos on youtube concerning alternator replacement. My favorite was the mechanic who shows how the belt tensioner works and then proceeds to show how easy it is to loosen the belt tension but everything he does is hidden behind the fan shroud - hmm, not really helpful. I found another video that suggested buying a special device for taking off tension and using bungee cords to hold the belt in position. I really didn't want to pay $50 for a tool that I may only use once or twice so I went back to the video of the mechanic who showed how the tensioner worked. I then went out and bought a 3 foot Stanley pry bar from Sutherlands ($14) - The Stanley pry bar was $2 less than the no-name two foot bar. The way to take off belt tension with a pry bar is to put the tip of the pry bar next to the crank shaft pulley and push the bar toward the drivers side. The tensioner will back off and the serpentine belt loosen. I used a bungee cord with one hook attached to the auxiliary battery box cover and the other attached to the pry bar to hold the bar in place and keep tension off the belt. Disconnect the plug (push in the tab at the back of the plug with a screwdriver and pull up) and the wire (covered nut) attached to the top of the alternator. Then there are three bolts holding the alternator in position. Remove these and pull the alternator out from underneath the loosened serpentine belt - this keeps the belt engaged in all the other pulleys since the belt is not moved. Insert the new alternator from the back and feed the pulley under the belt. Replace the three bolts that hold the alternator in place. You can now take the bungee off the pry bar and allow the serpentine belt to go back into its tightened state. Put the covered wire back on with the new nut that comes with the alternator and plug the wire back into the proper position on the top of the alternator. I was so surprised that the pry bar technique worked so well, and quickly, that I didn't have all my tools ready to remove the old alternator and replace it with the new. If I had prepared for that the whole procedure would have been finished in just a few minutes. I am very glad that Ford decided to put the alternator directly on top of the engine because access is not an issue at all. However, I am six foot four and I still used a step stool to get myself up high enough to do the job. I drove over to Walmart and put some diesel in the tank. The truck started well and seems to be running fine. Next week I will be stopping by my mechanic's garage to tell him the story. Obviously, according to what I am reading on the internet this is a problem of which he should be aware for his clients with F-250 and 350 diesel engines. However, I probably saved about $400 by doing the job myself and now I have a humongous pry bar that I can use for another purpose later.
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Reviewed in the United States on January 16, 2016 by John
I put this on a 2006 Ford F250 6.0L diesel. Bolted right up and has been working for about two months now no issues. Healthy charge output ... I think 14.3-14.4v. I love it when things actually work! And the price was right, paid about $90 ... Ford of course wanted $250 and another $250 to install it. Really? By the way guys, I have driven Fords now for 20 years. Mostly trucks and SUVs. Every single one I have owned has had various types of electrical gremlins. On my F250 SD my stock alternator was also reading 14v or so, seemed fine. But my batteries were going dead - they were both new. Alternator throwing off a good charge on my Sun meter and was charging the batteries fine ... as long as it was in my driveway with the hood up and me watching!! But then I go out and drive and batteries would get sucked down, sometimes took an hour sometimes 3 hours of driving, depending on what accessories I was running. Read all of the forums and they pointed to Ford alternators on the 6.0 going bad after about 90K miles, but your test meters will show good readings! The problem seems to be that the alternators get some fluctuation (with age) and the current produced is low quality, does not charge your batteries properly. THERE IS NO GOOD way to diagnose this problem, you will go nuts trying to do it! Every test you run will show your alternator is good ... but it's not! So I decided instead of racking my brain and running a bunch of diagnostics and reading forums, shelled out $90 for this little gem installed and problem fixed.
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Reviewed in the United States on September 25, 2014 by cs
It's still a small frame but gives you another 20 amps over stock on an 04. Easy install. Included a bench test result sheet.
Reviewed in the United States on October 10, 2020 by mp_tx
Very good alt. Fit perfect and worked great, no problems. If you need an alternator this is one to buy. Cant beat the price and the quality of it.
Reviewed in the United States on June 25, 2024 by asitis
I've had this alternator in my 03 F-250 with the 6.0 powerstroke for over a month now. It installed easily, was a perfect fit. My pickup is charging exactly as it should. Absolutely no issues! It's a great product and less expensive!
Reviewed in the United States on April 4, 2021 by Rebecca Hannon
The alternator on my 2003 f350 was making a horrible growling noise. So I thought I would try my luck with this one. Was a little unsure about quality of product at this price, but was impressed when I received it. It was not a remanufactured unit like some sell as new, as everything is bright and new with fresh machine marks. Perfect fitment with new electrical hardware. I didn't have a belt tensioner wrench so I simply rotated the pulley under the belt, then just torqued the alternator up onto it's bracket until I could thread the first bolt. Tightened it down but not all the way and installed the other two. 10 minute job. Batteries Tested great at 14.4 volts at idle. Very happy
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Reviewed in the United States on June 13, 2019 by Joshua Devall
The diode failed after 3.5 years. Not great.
Reviewed in the United States on January 21, 2025 by Aki Korhonen
Works as it should and held up for a few months now. Beats paying full price at the auto parts store and shipped quick.
Reviewed in the United States on October 31, 2022 by Derek Presto