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Availability:
In Stock.
Arrives
Friday, May 30
Features
- Ideal for use on a variety of indoor wood surfaces including bare, stripped or sanded; not recommended for floors
- Oil-based formula of blended oil & varnish penetrates deeply into wood pores for ultimate protection
- Dries to the touch in as little as 6 hours and covers up to 170 sq ft
- Easy application and protects against spills, abrasion, chipping and peeling; many projects can be completed in less than an hour
- Creates rich, warm glow that enhances the natural look and feel of the wood
Description
Watco Danish Oil Wood Finish stains, seals, and protects in one easy step to produce a warm, natural hand rubbed appearance. Simply brush or wipe on and wipe off to allow the penetrating oil to soak into your wood surface and protect from within. Offers superior performance on tight grained woods.
Color: Natural
Brand: Watco
Surface Recommendation: Wood
Material: Liquid
Model Name: Watco
Color: Natural
Brand: Watco
Surface Recommendation: Wood
Material: Liquid
Model Name: Watco
Size: Quart
Coating Description: Oil-based
Item Dimensions LxWxH: 4.63 x 2.5 x 7.5 inches
Item Weight: 1.8 Pounds
Finish Type: Oil
CPSIA Cautionary Statement: No Warning Applicable
Compatible Material: Wood
Liquid Volume: 946 Milliliters
Paint Type: Oil
Manufacturer: Rust-Oleum
Part Number: A65741
Item Weight: 1.8 pounds
Product Dimensions: 4.63 x 2.5 x 7.5 inches
Country of Origin: USA
Item model number: A65741
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer: No
Finish: Oil
Item Package Quantity: 1
Included Components: Danish Oil
Batteries Included?: No
Batteries Required?: No
Warranty Description: Warranty
Date First Available: October 2, 2005
Frequently asked questions
If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is:
Friday, May 30
Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
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Top Amazon Reviews
Danish Oil... what is it really? It sounds impressive but is it really impressive? Tung Oil v. Teak Oil vs. Danish Oil Watco Danish Oil is a good product for what it is but it is NOT what it sounds like... a true oil. It is a oil/varnish mixtures that contain an oil, a varnish and mineral spirits. Watco Danish Oil doesn't last long and needs constant re-application. It is not durable. It does makes wood pretty bringing out the natural grain patterns but do do many other products such as natural color stains, or Waterlox Tung Oils Finishes. Any thing will bring out the beauty that is not opaque. What do you really want to do? It all depends on what you are using any of these products for. Do you want something that will actually look fantastic, seal the wood, and provide some protection to a moisture-rich environment. Do you want to stay away from the cheap "plastic" look of polyurethane? You might want to try something other than Danish Oil. I don't care what Bethany or anyone else said on here, it is not true. Danish Oil will NOT provide water proofing at all, it will not even provide minimul water protection of any kind. It will spur the growth of mold. Your wood piece will be ruined if it gets wet. Either it will discolor, swell or delaminate in contact with water. Time is the factor that determines how quick this happens. There is no such thing as water PROOF when it comes to these faux oil combinations or true 100% oils, either. Even the highly regarded Waterlox Marine Sealer is not totally waterproof. And it is one of the best products, if not THE best, out there for wooden boats. It will last a long time getting wet. But not forever. Try Waterlox Original in Gloss or Satin. Watco Danish Oil is simply ok stuff, but Waterlox beats it hands down in almost all applications. Lesson learned over many, many years of fine wood working. I have done furniture finishing and refinishing for a living for 20 plus years and now do it strictly for a hobby. I have used every product made to man including spraying lacquer. The confusion? There is so much marketing garbage associated with all the "oils" related to wood finishing. First, is the question of what do you mean by "tung oil"? Do you mean real, 100%, pure tung oil (a drying oil) or one of the many faux "tung oil finishes" most of which contain no real tung oil at all. Tung Oil Finishes (like Minwax Tung Oil Finish and many others) are oil/varnish "faux" mixtures that contain linseed oil, a varnish and mineral spirits. You can make your own by mixing equal parts of the three components. Making your own is easy and cheaper by far. And just as good as something with a name brand that you pay dearly for. Teak oil is an oil/varnish mixture that generally contains a little pure tung oil added to linseed oil. This tung oil and linseed oil mixture is then mixed with varnish and mineral spirits. Finally, there is "Danish Oil" which is again a mixture of linseed oil, varnish and mineral spirits. Again, a "faux" mixture. It is minus the tung oil. See a pattern here? In other words, these faux finishes...Tung Oil Finish, Teak Oil and Danish Oil are darn near identical. They all lead you to believe you are getting something rare and exotic. The differences are based on marketing, not performance. Of course, there is also real, 100% pure tung oil and also 100% boiled linseed oil. Both are what are known as drying oils. The only difference is that the 100% tung oil is slightly less amber and slightly more water resistantthan the 100% boiled linseed oil. Neither are really protective or water resistant. Both will support mildew and mold. Mold is nasty stuff. So, how does this all fit into your project? Most faux oil finishes are not very protective from a water resistance or abrasion resistance point of view. These oils are an in-the-wood finish that will leave the natural look and feel to the wood, which is beautiful because wood is of course, beautiful. None are long lasting and require frequent renewal to maintain their properties and looks. These oil/varnishes are good for furniture items that do not get heavy abuse but I would not recommend any oil as a finish for something in a bathroom or moisture laden kitchen unless you are willing to perform the maintenance. The appropriate finish in a bathroom or kitchen wet area is a film finish. Once again Waterlox Original Sealer would be a good choice. I have heard it is just a thinned varnish. How untrue. It has Tung Oil in it. It's a combination of phenolic resin/tung oil/varnish/mineral spirits that has excellent water and abrasion resistance. It penetrates wood deeply and that is the key to a long lasting water resistant finish. A few coats of this to build it up a bit and you are set to go. Phenolic resin is what gives it the water resistance. And without the tung oil, Waterlox extraordinary finishes wouldn't be possible. The key to this being such a great product is the percentage mixture of the ingredients. A closely guarded secret, of course. And another benefit is it looks just like a Danish, Tung or Teak oil finish as far as final finish that will leave the natural look and feel to your wood. Yet this mix will give you water protection and mold growth protection while also giving you the woods true and natural beauty. No plastic polyurethane look with this stuff. This is my personal recommendation for all fine furniture or just regular every day furniture, no matter what the application or wood product. It makes your wood beautiful, but functional also. Another good product for water resistance and abrasion resistance is Behlen's Rockhard varnish. Myself, I use both Waterlox and Behlens. I prefer Waterlox, all things considered. But either one is fantastic. Then there is "lacquer" for extreme long life on interior woods. It comes in satin, semi or gloss finish but it is not easy to apply. It must be sprayed and it must be done in a proper environment as the fumes given off by drying are extremely explosive. Yes, I said "EXPLOSIVE" and I mean it. Drying fumes are extremely dangerous and could KILL YOU in an explosion. It doesn't take much for it to explode and lacquer is NOT for the do-it-yourselfer. Even if you don't have an explosion, you do not want to get the fumes in your lungs. Better left to a professional in a properly equipped shop with the proper ventilation required to spray lacquer. Ok, polyurethane. For best appearance, I would avoid using a polyurethane varnish. To me, it's just not very pretty stuff. But it does have it's place. If you don't care about the plastic look and you need moisture protection, have at it. It is cheaper than Waterlox. Lastly, Watco is now "not shipping their product to many states" due to the crazy government control freaks. Get your Waterlox or Behlens before UNCLE SAM/EPA stops those products also from shipping, too. It's just a matter of time. Next thing you know, we will have to wear seat belts, safety harnesses and helmets when woodworking. Hope you learned something here. It took me 20 years to gather this information through experience.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 19, 2014 by BlueLivesMatter
Refinished a 110 year old piano that had been in a barn. The oil easily soaked in to replenish the dried out wood! Two coats was all that was needed! Very pleased with results
Reviewed in the United States on May 24, 2023 by Gerald Curtis
As seen in the photo, the table top has Danish oil applied and the piece on top is bare for comparison. Both are cherry wood. 3 stars for durability because it's just oil, not a protectant. I don't think it's made to be durable and on it's own, I woyldn't use on a high use piece like a table, stool or bench. I've been using warm satin poly overtop of it once dried and I think it looks pretty darn good!
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Reviewed in the United States on March 18, 2023 by JCIII JCIII
I had used Danish oil containing a stain in years past. This was my first experience using a clear or natural finish Danish oil. I used it on raw teak. I had read that it was the best thing to use on teak. As usual it was super easy to apply and came out leaving a deep finish that brings out the natural beauty of the teak. Only time will tell on how well it will hold up but if I have to add another coat every year it should not be a problem
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Reviewed in the United States on December 14, 2022 by Steven Stiles
Very easy to apply and enhances the grain nicely. Rub on with a rag let it absorb for 5 - 10 minutes and buff off the any remaining. Three to four coats, some wax and you have a professional finish.
Reviewed in the United States on February 13, 2023 by 22 Pathfinder 22 Pathfinder
This is a good product so far for what I’ve used it for, which is staining the underneath of my live edge tables. Just don’t epoxy over it because it is an oily product.
Reviewed in the United States on May 14, 2022 by Condislikesit
Used the clear version of ythis product for our unfinished teak bathroom vanity. Simply wipe on, let sit 30 minutes, then wipe off excess and allow to rest for a couple of days. Lots of compliments.
Reviewed in the United States on August 14, 2022 by Lost One Lost One
This product dries quickly when applied with a cloth and gives a hand rubbed look. I use it on many of my hand made wood projects such as kitchen drawers and pull out shelves.
Reviewed in the United States on August 14, 2022 by Rolf A.