EPOXY Resin Crystal Clear 1 Gallon Kit | 1:1 Resin and Hardener for Super Gloss Coating | for Bars, Outdoor Table Top, Countertop, Art | Safe for Use on Wood, Metal, Stone, Plastic, Marine Sealer
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Availability:
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Arrives
Monday, Jun 29
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Features
- FLAWLESS CRYSTAL CLEAR COATING - Achieve crystal clear, flawlessly transparent epoxy coatings with our ultra high performance 1 gal. resin and hardener kit! This premium professional grade epoxy goes on smooth and dries evenly to eliminate crawling, trickling, craters and "fish eyes".
- CUSTOM DIY PROJECTS, ARTWORK, SURFACES - Create customized works of one-of-a-kind artisan craftsmanship. Perfect for DIY projects, countertops, bar tops, tabletops, river tables, jewelry, vehicle surface sealing, coffee tables, arts & crafts and nearly endless creative possibilities!
- UV, SCRATCH AND WATER-RESISTANT - We're committed to the highest quality engineering and production standards. Our dedicated research & development team has meticulously perfected the East Coast Resin epoxy formula for superior UV-resistance, scratch-resistance, and moisture-resistance when compared to other industry brands.
- SAFE AND ODORLESS - Surfaces coated with our premium epoxy are 100% safe for food to touch, and durably maintain their structural integrity over time without breaking down or leaching chemicals. Our odorless formula requires no mask and makes it easy to breathe and work in comfort all day long.
- EXTRA EASY TO APPLY - With East Coast Resin epoxy, you don't have to be a pro to achieve professional results the very first time! Our smooth-coating resin & hardener kit is straightforward and easy to apply - even as a first-time novice or beginner hobbyist. Detailed instructions are included with each kit.
Description
PREMIUM EASY-ON EPOXY FOR SUPER GLOSS COATING Are you looking for a flawlessly glass-clear epoxy that will make surfaces, countertops, and craft projects vibrantly come to life? Do you want to guarantee DIY project perfection without the hassle or do-over? Achieve professional-level, crystal clear results with this stunning surface epoxy from East Coast Resin! EPOXY MADE EASY Anyone can do it! Our kit contains one part resin and one part hardener. Mix in a 1:1 ratio, pour, and then smooth with a foam spreader. Detailed instructions come with each kit. Knock out multiple projects in a day with ultra fast 30 to 35-minute work times. Minimal bubbles that naturally appear during coating can be quickly heated and burned off with a blowtorch or heat gun. DURABLE – RESILIENT – LONG-LASTING Formulated with superior UV and moisture protection that resists yellowing, rain, humidity, and is ideal for long-term outdoor applications. Durable and extra hard-setting to resist scratches and scoring. SAFE FOR USE ON: ✅ Wood ✅ Veneer ✅ Aluminum ✅ Stainless ✅ Tile ✅ Carbon fiber ✅ Fiberglass ✅ Canvas ✅ Ceramic ✅ Painted surfaces ✅ Tabletops ✅ Porcelain ✅ Concrete ✅ Stone ✅ Rocks ✅ Cork ✅ Pennies ✅ Bottle caps ✅ Artwork ✅ Acrylic paint Bring surfaces to life and perfectly personalize every new project... Click ‘ADD TO CART’ or ‘BUY NOW ‘ Today!
Brand: East Coast Resin
Specific Uses For Product: Art, Countertop, Craft, Furniture, Table Top Coating, Tile Repair, Wall Art
Material: wood, veneer, aluminum, stainless steel, tile, carbon fiber, fiberglass, canvas, ceramic, painted surfaces, tabletops, porcelain, concrete, stone, rocks, cork, pennies, bottle caps, artwork, acrylic paint See more
Item Form: Liquid
Special Feature: Crystal clear, UV-resistant, scratch-resistant, water-resistant, safe for food contact, easy to apply, and versatile for various surfaces and DIY projects See more
Specific Uses For Product: Art, Countertop, Craft, Furniture, Table Top Coating, Tile Repair, Wall Art
Item Form: Liquid
Other Special Features of the Product: Crystal clear, UV-resistant, scratch-resistant, water-resistant, safe for food contact, easy to apply, and versatile for various surfaces and DIY projects
Container Type: Bottle
Full Cure Time: 2E+1 Hours
Water Resistance Level: Water Resistant
Viscosity Level: Medium
Compatible Material: Wood, Veneer, Aluminum, Stainless Steel, Tile, Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass, Canvas, Ceramic, Painted Surfaces, Tabletops, Porcelain, Concrete, Stone, Rocks, Cork, Pennies, Bottle Caps, Artwork, Acrylic Paint
Item Package Quantity: 1
Volume: 3785.41 Liters
Material Type: wood, veneer, aluminum, stainless steel, tile, carbon fiber, fiberglass, canvas, ceramic, painted surfaces, tabletops, porcelain, concrete, stone, rocks, cork, pennies, bottle caps, artwork, acrylic paint
Color: Clear
Brand Name: East Coast Resin
Model: CCER1
Unit Count: 128.0 Fluid Ounces
UPC: 852396005004 638865869533
Manufacturer: East Coast Resin
Part Number: FBA_CCER1
Item Weight: 128 Ounces
Frequently asked questions
If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is:
Monday, Jun 29
This item is non-returnable:
Non-returnable. Transportation of this item is subject to hazardous materials regulation
View our full returns policy here.
Non-returnable. Transportation of this item is subject to hazardous materials regulation
View our full returns policy here.
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Top Amazon Reviews
I purchased this product to coat my custom copper countertops. I used a thin copper sheeting and the corners started lifting and were sort of sharp. I theorized that this product would coat the corners and edges to eliminate the sharp corners and it worked. This product is SUPER glossy and if I did this again, I would look for a matte product but if you are looking for crystal clear super shine results, this product is awesome. I will be using this product a ton and plan to use it to coat my workbenches in my shop to create an ultra-hard work surface. Here is my story and some application tips. I waited a while (6 months) before using this product in order to allow the copper to Patina a little longer. Once I was ready, I waited even longer because their application instructions made it seem like it was a PIA process. When I finally decided to do this, I looked up videos on epoxy countertop applications that were not specific to this manufacturer and it turns out that all epoxies are mostly the same. I found a technique that worked very well and was super simple so here are my tips. Tools I used are 1/8" notch trowel (like the one you use for thinset and mortar), paint mixing stick, drill with mixing attachment, timer, resin paper (to protect surfaces from run-off), GOOD - not cheap - painters tape; 24 oz disposable mixing buckets (with measurement indicators), large (at least 60 oz) durable mixing container, foam brush; propane torch and/or heat gun), acetone, shop rags, 100% alcohol or denatured alcohol (for prep), tack cloth, work light (or adequate overhead lighting; NOTE - I had 32 square feet to cover and found that 30 minutes was a perfect amount of working time so I would not do anymore surface area than this per mix; READY TO GO? - Clean surface with alcohol first; be VERY detailed in covering up areas below to protect from potential run-off; DO NOT use tools that you want to keep, everything you use will require excess cleaning time to restore so plan on throwing this stuff away afterwards unless you do not mind having hardened epoxy on it; make sure that your torch OR heat gun is actually working and that you have a back up plan ready to go if your heat source fails (or runs out); Have acetone and rags ready to use for clean up of spillage; make sure that your surface is 100% free of debris and dust - use a tack cloth if you want to be absolutely certain; ensure that you have adequate lighting to spot imperfections during application; Before mixing and applying, triple check your work and run-off protection - ALSO, use painters tape to outline edge the bottom of your work piece, just make sure that the tape is NOT hanging over the edge - this ensures that your drips on the sides will not create epoxy icicles which are not the funnest thing to remove; make sure that you have a STURDY container for mixing - I mixed mine with a drill and compound mixer attachment and I used a very thin container to mix it in, the product is thick at first and when I mixed it with a drill, the mixer attachment grabbed on to the product and twisted the mixing container out of my hands and spilled a large amount of product onto the surface I was mixing on - I should have used a bigger and thicker container to mix in and should have mixed it on something that I did not care had spillage; mix a 1:1 ratio that yields 3 fluid oz of mixture/square foot of surface (don't forget to include the sides of the workpiece in your calculations) and mix with a drill for two minutes; after mixing is done, set a timer for 20 minutes to alert you that you only have 10 more minutes of working time, Pour mixture along the center of the work piece (apply what you think you need but try to be conservative, a little goes a long way, you can always add more, this helps avoid waste and run-off), spread product from middle to edges with the notched part of your notch trowel, once the top is fully coated, run the trowel from front to back towards edges to get excess to run over edges, run your work light over the entire piece to look for areas that were not coated and coat as necessary, run foam brush over entire work piece to smooth out application and cover missed spots, let product be for 2 minutes, use torch or heat gun to go over ENTIRE surface (keep flame about 6 inches away from surface AND keep in mind that heat will cause any adhesive below to fail or loosen so do not keep a heat source on one spot for more than a second; wait two minutes and repeat heating (even if you do not see bubbles); set a timer for 30 minutes, after 30 minutes has gone by, heat the entire work piece a final time; wait 24 - 72 hours before putting anything on it (24 hours is enough time, but why not be super certain?); Repeat as necessary.
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Reviewed in the United States on December 9, 2018 by Scott Vazinski
This item was purchased for a counter top project to be installed in a retail store. The slab of wood has live edges on both long sides, square cuts on the ends, and is approximately 24"x102" (17 sq-ft) and 4 inches thick. A big piece of wood. Long story short I am very pleased with this product for this application. This is NOT a casting epoxy. It is best to build up your project depth working in relatively thin layers of 1/32" to 1/16" at a time. If you want to do a river table that has some deep pours (>1/4") get a casting epoxy. The bottles with the resin and hardener are clearly labeled and sturdy. The 4 pages of instruction were very helpful and thorough enough to get it right the first time. The product goes on as well as any other epoxy I have used. The mixing was done with an impeller type mixer and cordless drill, in 8/8 oz. (16 oz. total) batches. I make smaller batches so you have more working time with the epoxy. I got about 30 minutes of ideal working time. After 45 minutes you better just stick to torching bubbles and not touch the epoxy. It starts to stiffen at that point and doesn't self level as well. Air bubbles were taken care of with a propane torch after all of the batches had been poured and spread evenly with a plastic notched trowel. The torch is much faster than a heat gun but can scorch the epoxy if you stay too long in one spot or get too close to the epoxy. Some helpful tips for this product: 1. READ THE PROVIDED INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE MIXING AND POURING. Pretty simple, but there is some good information there that will help you out. This one gallon kit will add about 1/8" of depth to a 16 sq-ft project. If you want 1/4", you will need 2 gallons. 2. If putting on unsealed wood, you will need a seal coat. All this does is seal up the grains in the wood. Pour on a small batch of epoxy and spread it out over your project with a squeegee. Don't try to build up depth on the seal coat because you will drive yourself nuts fighting bubbles the whole time, and some bubbles will undoubtedly never come to the top. Let that sit for at least 4 hours before you try to build thickness. Give 4 hours of cure time for each layer you put on. 3. Put both bottles in a bucket of warm water (90-100F) and let them warm up for 1/2 an hour or so. This thins out the epoxy which makes any bubbles easier to get out after you've mixed and poured. Ideally the resin and hardener will be at 85F when you mix them and pour the epoxy. Don't go any hotter than that or you will have less working time. 4. Turn your A/C and any fans off a couple of hours before and leave them off while you're pouring. Little specks of dust will settle out from the air and are visible in the epoxy. Yes, you can sand those out and polish the epoxy back to a glass finish, but better to avoid having to do that if you can help it. 5. When you have all the bubbles out and start to just babysit the project, leave the room and turn off the lights. Only turn the lights on when you go back every 30 minutes or so to check on things. If you leave the lights on, any flying insects in the room are going to light on the project. I don't know if it's Murphy's Law or if they like the shiny wet looking surface or the lights reflected on it. Either way, bugs land in your epoxy and you have to deal with it. If that happens, get them out ASAP. A pair of tweezers, toothpicks, or dental picks work for this. 6. If you are letting the top run down the sides of your project, wet the sides with a cheap paintbrush. I prefer a bristle brush after I've removed all of the loose bristles. A foam brush just doesn't work as well for me. Look for loose bristles on your project. Again, toothpicks and tweezers get them out easy. Make sure all the sides are wet with epoxy while it's still flowing. Otherwise it will run down in streaks and beads. Epoxy will form little drop icicles on the bottom. Start scraping them off 45 minutes or so after pouring. Keep doing that until the epoxy starts to solidify. Much less sanding that way.
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Reviewed in the United States on March 29, 2020 by Seth from Haynesville
With some assistance, built a bar in my basement from pallets I collected from work. After deciding on my design, I thought about my finish. Since I like the rustic look I thought I try the char method. I was happy with that but now I wanted to step it up a notch. I thought an epoxy resin finish was the way to go! I researched which product to use & through all the reviews I read on many decided on this one. I am happy I did! I watched a bunch of videos on doing it because I now had this project I was already pleased with but didn’t want to screw it up - there’s no do over. I actually delayed starting it because of the what ifs. I got myself together, gave myself the entire weekend to do nothing other than complete this. My takeaways on using this is READ DIRECTIONS THOROUGHLY & then read them again. Heed the warnings & you’ll have incredible results. My surface totaled 18sq ft - I used 2 one gallon kits (& could’ve used maybe another half of one). Be prepared— have all your measurements, supplies, floor coverings, & cleaners at hand & you won’t go wrong. I started around 10am on Saturday & did my last pour around 6:30 Sunday. I wanted to do the pours with in the 4-12 hour range as to not have to sand & clean surface. Use a timer to track your mixing time, work steady & swiftly- don’t overwork material. Be vigilant on air bubbles more will surface when you look away. LOL Overall- I liked this product & I love how my bar looks!!
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Reviewed in the United States on November 12, 2018 Reviewed in the United States on November 12, 2018 by Kelly
I used this to finish a distressed wood top I made for my kitchen island. I originally used urethane, but there were too many cracks & crevices and my wife said it would be too hard to keep clean. So I scratched up the surface with 220 grit sandpaper and used epoxy to put a nice smooth surface on it. The product covered the urethane with no trouble at all. I had previously used JB Weld premium liquid epoxy with terrible results on a previous job - the finish turned milky as it cured and the piece was ruined. Not sure what went wrong as the instructions were minimal. Due to the great reviews and reasonable price I decided to try this Crystal Clear epoxy resin. The instructions were great. They were very detailed with lots of tips to get great results and much better than the worthless instructions that came with the JB Weld product. The finish came out very nice and my wife is happy! I only gave it 4 stars because the finish scratches easily. We've only used the island top a few weeks and there are already scratches and scuffs, despite using reasonable caution. After I used this product I realized that the same company makes a similar epoxy for Table Tops that is supposed to be harder. If I get too many scratches I may go for another coat of the Table Top version to see if it's more durable.
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Reviewed in the United States on February 27, 2017 by SRDino
Hi guys First time I bought this epoxy in 2018 and since then I have used this epoxy on a few tens of river & epoxy tables. In my opinion this is the best choice for professional projects. May be my advices and my opinion will be useful for beginners. First of all, about the properties of this epoxy. This epoxy really creates deep and beautiful gloss finish. The main condition - you must follow all the rules set out in the manual. The hardness. I use two types East Coast Resin, this epoxy and epoxy for tabletops with bigger hardness. My customers don't have questions or complaints about scratches. At the same time I need to say that Shore D for ANY epoxy is similar, 76-82. This means any epoxy can be damaged. Any. All we dream to get perfect epoxy tabletop. You exactly will get perfect tabletop. The payment - carefully and scrupulously go with the manual. This is not easy. but quite doable. I would recommend to learn the manual by heart. Professionalism is always hidden under a million invisible nuances. Here I have to say that ease of using and high quality finish are inversely proportional. I never had yellow or pink spots with this epoxy. But I know how to get yellow shade. You need to break the rule of using. If you will leave mixed epoxy in a can, after 7-8 minutes the epoxy will heat up to a high temperature and turn yellow. Room temperatures below 72 will promote rapid boiling and yellowness. I saw the negative review but this is mistake of using. How to use the epoxy correctly? Temperature in the room 75-85. The minimal temperature is 72. Make sure before mixing that hardener and epoxy have correct temperature and your table top also. Hold please correct temperature during 24 hours after pouring. Hold the temperature at night. Always use gloves and I would recommend a respirator. When you will mix an epoxy don't use a drill or quick mixing. Mix in the first container - 3-4 minutes Every 30 seconds, you can gently scrape off the sides of the container with no power. This is only valid in the first container. Pour slowly into a second container. Stir for 1.5 - 2 minutes. DO NOT scrape the SECOND container. If you are a beginner, work with volumes no larger than 64 ounces. DO NOT wait for the epoxy to heat up in the container. Or you are more likely to get a yellow tint DO NOT scrape the container WHEN POURING the epoxy onto the surface. Never try to create a thick layer. Not more than 1/4 in. It's easier to create several layers than to get overheat and, as a result, possible yellowing. The most difficult for beginners is a seal coat when bubbles will appear after application. This is air from wood. A torch will be useful. In my opinion a torch better than a heat gun. A flood coat is some easier. I would recommend to create two layers of flood coat. There may be too much information here, but as a result you can get a perfect surface. Best wishes guys!
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Reviewed in the United States on March 2, 2021 Reviewed in the United States on March 2, 2021 by Oleksii
I have so much good to say about this product. I have worked with epoxies before that claimed to be clear and weren't. So right up front I am going to say that this is the clearest product I have ever used. I made myself a coffee table out of plywood with a rope glued around the border. My idea was to cover it in epoxy to make something the kids could eat dinner on or a guest could set their drink in and not worry about spills running off the edge of the table (liquids would be contained by the epoxied rope). Long story short, I pretty much decided to wing it, guessing the amount I would need, stirring violently (everyone says this will cause air bubbles), not starting with an initial thin coat, and doing the whole thing indoors with a fan on hoping I wouldn't choke in my sleep (it has rained every day for 2 months here, and I want to get this finished). It turned out perfectly. A little epoxy goes a long way, it went on with LOTS of bubbles but dried without them, and the stuff has no vapor. It dries fully in 24 hours if you used a reasonable amount and not an ocean. COMMON ISSUES I have read reviews about the product being sticky and never drying. Be SURE to pour the hardener into your mixing bucket FIRST, the epoxy SECOND. This has to do with the sides of the bucket retaining wet epoxy that will never solidify. Trust me on this. I would recommend mixing with something taped to a well-taped drill bit and just using a power drill, but I mixed by hand for a few minutes. I have read reviews of this not being 1 gallon -- both bottles ADD UP to 1 gallon. My table is pictured. It uses plywood for subflooring, Walnut Stain, 4 pipe legs ("Pipe Décor 12FLGLEGS 24-Inch Table Legs Complete Set Industrial Steel Grey") and 5 soda-can sized cup holders ("6 Cup Holders Plastic Boat RV Car Truck Insert Regular Truck Sofa Insert Large Game Table Pocket Recessed"). For mixing epoxy I used "20 8oz Disposable Graduated Clear Plastic Cups for Mixing Paint, Stain, Epoxy, Resin."
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Reviewed in the United States on June 27, 2018 Reviewed in the United States on June 27, 2018 by Dewey
Product was great and worked as Epoxy should. This was my first time with Epoxy so I will share my experience to help the next victim :) Crafted 2 end tables and wanted to inlay a picture below the epoxy, Watched several videos and read how to's on it. Tips: CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN area dust will kill you. ( did mine in garage with door open, don't do that) Prep, MUST do a seal coat, I read this and thought ehh, I prepped the wood enough and skiped this. Lead to many air bubbles. DO SEAL COAT! I fought bubbles for about an hour while top layer dried. Then they were stuck under top coat and it looked bad. I poured mine about 3" thick. do not attempt to do all at once. I did and it was a mistake. DO LAYERS!! But if you are like me and rush, do not worry. I watched a video did did as instructed. Took 80 grit sand paper and sanded it down a bit. It will look scratched and cloudy as heck. Don't worry!! Then took my Dremel and carved out the air bubbles! ( I know it sounded crazy to me as well) Then did a poor very thin and fast. It looks like glass and all air bubbles are gone! Loved how they turned out for my first time, If you take one thing away from my review, let it be to pour thin multiple layers!!
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Reviewed in the United States on October 18, 2016 by Chris
Pros: -cheaper than most brands -Easy to use -mixes easy -very clear -detailed instructions Cons: -Not durable -scratches/blemishes very easily This is great for artwork or decorative items. I measure this stuff with a scale and it is precise when I mix. I will not buy again however because it scratches/indents wayyy to easy even after a couple weeks of curing. I can take my fingernail, put very light pressure on it, drag it across the table, and a permanent scratch is left behind. I need stuff that will hold up to wear and tear and this just isn't it.
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Reviewed in the United States on December 30, 2020 Reviewed in the United States on December 30, 2020 by Brandon R