SCITOO Alternator Fit for Dodge for Ram 1500 2009-2010, for Ram 2500 2010 & for Ram 1500 11-12, 2500/3500 11-18, V8 5.7L - 12V 160Amp CW S6 Pulley Class, Replace OE 11299 56028697AL
Condition: New
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Availability:
Only 1 left in stock, order soon!
Arrives
Saturday, Nov 1
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Style: 11299 Alternator
Size: Small
Features
- Alternator Fitment- Automotive new alternator replacement for Dodge for Ram 1500 5.7L 2009,for Dodge for Ram 1500 5.7L 2010,for Ram for 1500 5.7L 2011,for Ram for 1500 5.7L 2012
- High-Performance Specifications Engineered with Voltage: 12V; Amperage: 160Amp; Rotation: CW (Clockwise); Regulator: ER (External Regulator) ; Fan: IF (Internal Fan); Grooves: S6 Pulley Class; Condition: New, high output alternator is compact and lightweight, fully compatible with the electronic system of your vehicle, this automotive replacement alternator delivers reliable power for your car, its built to meet the demands of modern vehicles
- Car Alternator Reference Number- Direct OEM replacement for your malfunctioning part, OE number : 11756, 56028697AL, 56028697AM 56028697AO, 56028697AP, 56028697AQ 421000-0721, 4210000730, 421000-0730, 4210000731, 421000-0731, 56028697AL, 56028697AM, 56028697AO, 56028697AP, 56028697AQ, TN4210000730, TN421000-0730, TN4210000731, TN421000-0731, 4210000721
- Premium Alternators - New alternators throught precision CNC machined castings, Bearing 100% tested to OE standards. All key mounting points are measured for proper fit. Throught igorous and accelerated cycling tests to ensure the quality and durability of product;Installing this alternator is a breeze! Simply disconnect the batterys negative terminal, adjust the transmission belt to the correct tension (too loose = power loss; too tight = bearing damage), and tighten all screws securely
- Why Choose SCITOO As a trusted name in automotive replacement parts, SCITOO delivers high-output alternators that combine performance, durability, and affordability. Whether youre driving a sedan, SUV, or truck, our alternator is your go-to solution for reliable power; for any issues, our team provides professional technical support
Manufacturer: SCITOO
Brand: SCITOO
Model: 131630
Item Weight: 13.98 pounds
Product Dimensions: 10.43 x 8.66 x 7 inches
Item model number: 131630-511
Exterior: Machined
Manufacturer Part Number: 131630-511
OEM Part Number: AL 56028697AM 56028697AO 56028697AP 56028697AQ 421000-030 421000-031 421000-0AL 56028697AM 56028697AO 56028697AP 56028697AQ TN4210000730 TN421000-0730 TN4210000731 TN421000-021
Special Features: 2009 for Dodge for Ram 1500 5.7L,2010 for Dodge for Ram 1500 5.7L,2011 for Ram for 1500 5.7L,2012 for Ram for 1500 5.7L, Voltage 12V; Amperage 160Amp; Rotation CW (Clockwise); Regulator ER (External Regulator) ; Fan IF (Internal Fan); Grooves S6 Pulley Class
Amperage: 160 Amps
Voltage: 12 Volts
Date First Available: July 29, 2024
Frequently asked questions
If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is:
Saturday, Nov 1
Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
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Size: 90A
I installed this unit in my 08 Hyundai Accent. It fit perfectly and I had no issues replacing the original unit. So far, the alternator works well. Update 7/1/25: Well, it worked for several months and thats it. My car is pretty basic and contains all the factory specs. My OEM Hyundai alternator lasted from 2008 to late 2024, and and a few days ago this alternator left my car stranded with a ~$300 tow bill. The problems started as strange behavior with dashboard lights and then after turning off the engine it wouldn't crank again. At first I blamed my brand new battery, I jumped the car to see if that's the issue. The car fired up and then maybe 5 minutes later all the electronics started to malfunction. This happened each time the car was jumped. Basically the battery gets charged enough to start the car but the alternator is not able to maintain a charge to power the electronics. Another strange symptom was that the RPMs gauge in the dash became unresponsive. After towing the car the battery is totally dead. Thinking the car is basically done, I did some research and all the signs pointed to a failing alternator. 7/6/2025: This is the final update. I've switched the star rating back to 5. The reason for this change is that after investigating, the catastrophic failure was not due to the alternator but there was an installation error ie the ground wire bolt was not tight enough. The wire eventually failed to make a solid connection and the car couldn't get a charge. After fixing the ground, recharging the battery, and several days of checking the voltage at idle and driving; the alternator has shown consistent voltage levels within the proper specs: over 14V while driving, >=13V at idle when there is minimal load placed on the car (AC on medium, basic headlights, radio). For the size car and alternator amps I've read it's normal for the Accent to have voltage drop at idle under heavy load below 13V but that 1500+ RPMs is where you test if the alternator is properly carrying the heavy load. While driving I cranked the AC and the voltage never dropped below 14V at roughly 2000RPMs. All tests have thus far past since the loss of power issue.
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Reviewed in the United States on December 17, 2024 by AP AP
Style: 11390 Alternator
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Great fit and has been working great so far. that and it was about 140 bucks cheaper on her than anywhere else
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Review for an alternator for a 2011 Hyundai Sonata. This product was as described. It fits my car perfectly and charges the battery. It's definitely a tight fit working on the bottom bolt. I watched YouTube University first. Some people said to get the bottom bolt from under the car, some said to go through the wheel well. In both cases, that required removing splash panels that I just didn't think was necessary. I was able to get at the bolt from above, it was really tight, but got it loose. The bottom mounting hole is slotted to make installation easier. You can put the bottom bolt in loosely and place it in the slot. Just make sure the positive power cable is oriented in the right direction. There isn't much slack! I removed the the vacuum assembly right behind the Alternator, and the disconnected the AC wire, both to make a little working room. My car now has a battery that actually charges so now I can get back home too! I've done a lot of YouTube U. maintenance on this vehicle, all with parts from Amazon. Life is grand!
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It works... 10 vdc output though. Usually a output of 12vdc to 14vdc is normal for a automotive dash meter. Meter should be right in the middle. But since Im working through the many, many issues an illiterate mechanic created, for this YJ. I dont even trust that. For now, I will just say, it works. Because, the vehicles amp meter may be off.
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Hardest alternator I've ever done, mainly bc v6 and not much room in Japanese engine compartment for large ape hands. Had to take out a little if the cooling parts. One stupid clip that keeps the electrical from touching the alternator took FOREVER to get right; had to build a weird part to get it right. Anyway, drove it home about 20 miles, seemed fine, next day drove it to O'Reilly and it breaks down. I realize i filled it with "universal" concentrated coolant, so i drain about half of it, add water, and the electrical goes crazy. Coast/grind it into a parking lot, go home and get a different battery, drive it home. Didn't occur to me that the brand new alternator could be the issue. So i finally pull it out again and take it to 3 free testing places, luckily advanced auto parts had the right adapter to test it: FAIL. At this point it's been 30 days (we have another car), but Amazon is usually cool if you call them. Nope. Mfr wouldn't take it back. Ok. Bought a second one, installed it, it was fine. Running for about 6 months now. Sent the first one back in the second one's box. Sure, 'you get what you pay for' i guess. But i know that Chinese QC is not up to American standards as they simply pump out too many parts. Simple statistics. Whatever. Didn't have $700 to buy the OEM. WHATEVER. Hey, cool story.
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