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Availability:
In Stock.
Arrives
Jun 16 – Jun 23
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Features
- Nominal Dimensions: 11ft L x 21ft D / Footprint: 10ft 4.25in W x 20ft 4in D / Exterior Dimensions: 10ft 3.5in W x 21ft D x 9ft 4in H / Exterior Roof Dimensions: 11ft 0.75in W x 21ft 0.75in D / Interior Dimensions: 10ft 0.5in W x 19ft 2.5in D x 9ft 2.25in (Maximum) / Square Feet: 200.8 / Cubic Feet: 1,573.6
- Weather-Resistant Powder Coated Steel Frame with 1in Double Walled Polyurethane Plastic Walls
- Windows: Includes Three Stationary Door Windows and Six Latch and Lock Shatter-Proof Windows that Open Halfway for Ventilation
- Extra Large Tri-Fold Carriage Style Door: Features Internal Spring Latch, Interior Deadbolts, and Exterior Padlock Loop
- Flooring: Constructed of Stain-Resistant Polyethylene Plastic
Description
60026 Size: 11' x 21' Features: -Material: Steel, HDPE Polyethylene plastic.-Features 108'' x 72'' Tri-fold Door with Stationary Windows and Exterior Padlock, Six Proof Windows, Two Large Skylights, Two 30'' x 14'' Shelves, Two 16'' Peg Strips with Tool Hooks.-Comes with plenty of room to store your big stuff.-Shelving system and peg strips for organizing all the little stuff.-Keep it all safe, secure, and protected from the elements.-Carriage-style door design allows you to open up the entire front of the shed for easy access.-Four shatter proof windows open for ventilation.-Appreciate the spacious headroom of this design, seven windows and five skylights to let in plenty of natural lighting.-Convenient usability, long-lasting durability, and easy care maintenance.-UV-protected, stain- resistant, and rust resistant.-Best of all they never need painting.-For routine cleaning, simply spray down with a hose.-Compatible expansion kits to accommodate larger vehicles. Dimensions: -11' x 18.5': H x 132'' W x 222'' D.-11' x 21': H x 132'' W x 252'' D.-11' x 11': H x 132'' W x 132'' D. Warranty: -10-Year limited warranty.
Brand: Lifetime
Color: Green
Material: Plastic
Product Dimensions: 252"D x 132"W x 111"H
Style: Cottage
Brand: Lifetime
Color: Green
Material: Plastic
Product Dimensions: 252"D x 132"W x 111"H
Style: Cottage
Base Material: Plastic
Top Material Type: Hdpe
Water Resistance Level: Water Resistant
Frame Material: Alloy Steel
Door Style: Folding Doors
Assembly Required: Yes
Manufacturer: Lifetime
Door Width: 132 Inches
UPC: 081483003658
Door Height: 111 Inches
Item model number: 60026
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer: No
Frequently asked questions
If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is:
Jun 16 – Jun 23
Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
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Top Amazon Reviews
I bought the 11'x21' shed a few months ago from one of the big warehouse stores while on sale so got quite a deal, but hope to share my experience for future buyers. It is a great shed and a great value for the size. It would cost every bit of $5K to build a shed of this size conventionally. I built a wood deck/foundation to erect the shed on in lieu of trying to level the area in my back yard (our slope falls about 2.5' over the 21' length of the shed). I thought this was a better/more economical option than attempting to grade and retain earth. With the exception of about 90 min. of help on one day and 10 min. on a second day, I built the entire shed by myself, so it is do-able. There were many challenging parts that I will elaborate on, but with the 90 min. of help it took a total of about 20 hrs. of my time and the deck foundation took another 21 hrs. prior to the shed (of course that was stretched over a two months worth of weekends). I do recommend trying to recruit help, but if you're capable of the manual labor and a little handy, you can pull it off. I don't consider myself a professional by any stretch, but I do have a little experience with tools/etc., so I don't recommend a complete novice try this; especially if you're not good at reading/following directions. I'll start with the few nit-picky CONS: 1) Directions are not very good. I did notice Lifetime updated their directions online and are probably providing the better directions now, but mine had zero narrative to go along with the pictographs. Most steps were pretty easy to figure out but some were quite difficult to decipher from the directions. I don't know how anybody could build this with the approach of having a direction reader and an assembler. You have to see the pictures to figure out how to assemble. They do label the hardware packages to correspond witht he steps in the directions which is very helpful. 2) As stated, with pictographs only you don't get any warnings of what not to do that could easily be done wrong by misinterpreting the directions. So I ended up having to redo a few things, but nothing major. 3) Some of the steel framing pieces are a bit difficult to line up and bolt, but eventually I did get everything together as intended. 4)Door & window hardware seams cheap. It all went in like it is supposed to, but it is all plastic and just not the best. But certainly not a deal-breaker by any means. Windows open and close as do the doors. 5) Bi-fold door slide bolts are pretty bad. They do not slide easily at all and I've accepted to use my pliers. These have to be "unlocked" in order to open the two-panel bi-fold door that opens up the whole front end to full width. 6) I have not seen any water in it yet, but really want to be inside during a rain to see how well the steel channels act as the drainage system. 7) Advertised dimensions of 11' x 21' are for the roof line. The floor/walls are more like 10'4" x 20'. I read this before I bought it so it didn't bother me. PROS: 1) Amazing engineering. I was convinced the walls & framing were going to fall down before I finished, but with some minimal temp. support, after I got the roof panels going it tightened up very sturdily. I weigh about 195-lbs. and I can literally hang from a single truss once the shed is complete. DON'T TRY THIS UNTIL 100% DONE… and I wouldn't make it a regular practice. 2) For the size of this shed, excellent value! I got the big one to store my 15' john boat and it fits perfectly with about 18" to spare. 3) It looks very nice. Does not look cheap at all, especially considering it is all plastic. 4) Light is great. The 21' comes with two sunlights that go in the roof and six pair of wall windows. You can put them anywhere in the walls/roof except at the corners. With our orientation to the sun, I put four windows and two sunlights on one side and two windows/no sunlights on the opposite side. It is very well lit as long as the sun is out. 5)Once you perform a step one or two times, the repetition makes it rather easy to get going at a good pace. Everything is sectionalized and the same steps over and over. LESSONS LEARNED…In order of sequence 1) The floor is simple. If you can't figure out the floor, just call a professional because you will never finish. 2) Walls go quite easily as well. Panels are about 20-24" wide. It would have been nice to have another body on the exterior side to resist the screws put in from the inside, but it works without the second person. 3) Steel trusses/frames are next. Two vertical legs and a truss all bolt together to create a frame. Frames screw to inside of wall panels. It would have been nice to have a clearer path from my point of assembly to the shed, or better yet would have been to assemble the frames right in between the wall panels and just lift them up. Again, moving the frames into place is easier with two, but I managed alone. I left all the bolts loose so the various pieces could swing and move thinking this would make it easier to get in place. It worked pretty well. 4) Roof Panels were pretty simple as well. DO NOT FORGET THE STEEL SUPPORT RODS. Each roof panel gets three (or two for the sunlight panels) small steel support rods. I could not figure out what these were for… The instructions lead me to believe I had to start the roof panels at the front end of the shed AFTER the front wall/doors were up. This is not the case. The roof panels do not overlap and you could start anywhere you want. The roof ridge pieces DO overlap so must go in order from the front, but not the main roof panels. We'll get back to those… Some of the roof/wall panel joints were challenging to align and again a second person would have been a big help. 5) Front Wall/doors. This was one of the most challenging steps. You have to assemble the whole wall panel (three door panels total) on the ground then lift into place as a single piece. Being three door panels it does move easily and weighs a good 150-lbs if not more. I got the panel up off the ground and did not think I was going to be able to get it in by myself, but eventually was able to get a couple screws in and complete it. This is one step I highly recommend finding help. 6) Roof Ridge Pieces. Pretty simple. You have to start at the front end and work to the rear. The last piece is impossible to attach by yourself as you have to have to have someone on the outside holding it down while it is screwed from the inside. There is no way one person can do both. 7)Windows. Again, once you do one they're all the same and are pretty easy, just a lot of small parts that take some time. There is a protective film on both sides of the windows and sunlights. I missed this on the first piece and had to cut it out after I had it installed. 8) I opened all boxes and culled through all parts and separated into like piles before starting assembly. I never did figure out if the pieces are boxed in order of sequence but it would be easier if they are. 9) Other than the front end panel, no pieces are very heavy. I'd say the heaviest piece is the assembled steel frame that's probably about 40 lbs. 10) Definitely get a good screw gun. There many hundreds of screws and it is well worth buying one just for this if you don't have one. Go to Lifetime's website and read the instruction/assembly manual before you purchase if you are considering this shed. It will tell you a lot.
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Reviewed in the United States on March 9, 2014 by Reddogwood
After a bunch of research and assembling the shed, here is what I think is helpful: Bottom-line: This is a well-made, durable shed with more features (fancy doors, lots of windows, skylights) than you would build yourself on get on a wooden shed. It will probably last longer and will definitely require much less maintenance. It's still a considerable job to set it up. DELIVERY: It was delivered on two pallets. Each pallet was over a thousand pounds and had several boxes on it all wrapped in plastic -- a couple hundred pounds each. I let them sit on my driveway on the pallets for two months until I had a chance to build the shed. The pallets are VERY hard to move, so have your delivery guy put it where you want it. Consider that he probably can't drive on an asphalt driveway without damaging it. FOUNDATION: The shed location was on a hill that fell 28" over the 20' length of the shed. I considered many foundation designs: CONCRETE: Concrete is strong, durable, and simple, but it's expensive and not practical on a slope. It is a great option if you can get a truck access to the spot and the higher cost will be offset by saving a few full days of work having to build a wooden structure. Estimated cost: $1200 if you have a level location & made the form yourself and had ready mix concrete delivered. GRAVEL: I think 6-8" or gravel tamped thoroughly every 2" would work well and be very cheap. Best on fairly level ground. You could bury it in the ground or create a raised perimeter with retaining wall blocks and fill it if you need to make a level spot. Estimated cost: $250 if just gravel, no blocks. WOOD: B/c of my 28" slope, I chose this option. I built it on 4 x 4 posts, on preformed concrete deck blocks, on top of concrete blocks, on top of gravel, dug into the ground about 15". The deck rests on the 4 x 4s. This arrangement keeps my treated wood away from the soil, so it lasts a very long time. I used 1"-thick decking boards instead of plywood for the decking since it will last much longer than plywood and only costed $70 or so more. I built the platform to the exact footprint size of the shed (which I think was 10' 3.5" x 20') so I wouldn't have wood decking exposed to weather and UV. I put flashing around the top corner of the platform to further help keep water from getting on my deck boards, although this is probably unnecessary. The base of the shed has a little drip edge that can hang over your platform about 1/2" on all sides if you like. Under the platform, I put 4 mm plastic with gravel on top, to keep the moisture away from the wood, keep weeds away, and make it less appealing to critters. I over-engineered the foundation a big so I wouldn't have to worry about it, but it cost me about $900 in materials (Gravel, concrete blocks, deck blocks, lumber, galvanized carriage bolts w/ washer & nut ($2 each set!), landscape fabric, & deck screws). The lumber was the biggest cost and deck screws next. I'm an intermediate novice carpenter and it took me and someone better than me almost a full day to get all the supplies to my house. It took another full day to clear the ground and dig up some bushes and an old stump. It took 2.5 more days to finish the platform, for a total of 4.5 days. This was more than I anticipated due to (1) extra time to dig up stumps, rocks, & roots, (2) having to be very precise to get the platform exactly the right size & square, (3) everyone always under-estimates, and I'm an everyone. $900 SHED ASSEMBLY: My partner and I both have engineering backgrounds and lots of projects under our belts. It still took us 2.5 mostly full days to assemble the shed. -A can of spray silicone lubricant was very handy for sliding some pieces together and having the door close smoothly. Cheap and useful. Also have a rubber mallet on hand. -Have a screw gun/driver/drill on hand as you'll put in hundreds of screws. Best to have one for each person w/ spare batteries. -Open all boxes and lay out all the pieces, like with like, near where you will work, with a clear walkway to the site. -There are a lot of parts. About 7 times we thought we were missing something, so we just continued working on what we could and then the parts turned up. -The directions aren't great, but stick with it, they make sense and they work. They say to install the windows from outside, but I found it far easier to do this from inside. -Despite what some other reviewers said, all pieces and holes lined up. -Many of the steps are very awkward and difficult w/ one person. Have 2 people. -The 20' shed has 6 windows. You can put them anywhere except the corners. -Have some long pieces of lumber on hand to: brace the walls in place while building and put weight on the roof so you can screw into it from inside. -Spray the inside of the window latches with silicone and they work well. -The manual that came with the shed was the most updated one and there were no newer ones online (typing this on 8/24/18). -Mini-bar clamps you can tighten with one hand were extremely useful -To secure the shed to the wood decking beneath, use 3/8" x 1.5" long lag screws. (10 mm x 4 cm long works the same.) For the 20' shed, you'll need 20 of them and 20 fender washers (3/8" hole x 1"). -I secured the wooden platform to the ground so a hurricane/tornado wouldn't tip it over or suck it away. I used coiled spikes that screw into the ground with 10 loops of 550 parachute cord attaching each stake to a heavy-duty screw eye in the wooden frame. The stakes for securing dogs aren't strong enough. You could also bury treated lumber flat in the ground and chain onto it. Might be overkill, might not. A concrete foundation would haven't this issue. *We ran into 3 problems following the directions: (1) The ends of the first wall panel you place should come closer to the edge of the floor than you think. If it is too far from the edge, the last panel on that wall won't have enough space and will come all the way to the edge of the floor. Then, to fix it, you'd have to take apart the whole wall. So make sure you get the first panel of each wall a little 1/2" closer to the edge of the floor than it seems you should. Otherwise, it causes problems later when you attach the doors. (2) We had trouble getting the doorway square for the doors to close correctly. The manual basically says, "Adjust the doors to make sure they close well," with no guidance. The trick is to make sure the feet on the door are not secured to the floor, loosen the lower hex bolts on the bottom left and right door jambs, and push on the ends of the doors to square up the doorway. My doors rubbed the door jamb at the top and bottom, so I screwed the plastic floor down to the deck to create 1/8 more space and put silicone lubricant at both friction points. This worked pretty well. (3) The door latch doesn't move the lever enough to open the door, so you can lock yourself out without a lock on the door (Yes, I had to climb in a window). I fixed this by grinding down the edge of the metal lever inside the shed so it clears the catch when the latch button is depressed. Good luck!
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Reviewed in the United States on August 25, 2018 by MMA MMA