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Formula Auto Parts

MAP1 Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor – Replacement for OEM 12569240 Compatible with Buick Century, Regal, LeSabre, Electra & Select GM/Acura Vehicles MAP Sensor

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Features

  • Precision Engine Performance: Delivers accurate manifold pressure readings to ensure proper air/fuel mixture, helping maintain peak engine efficiency and performance.
  • OEM Fit & Function: Engineered to meet or exceed OEM specifications for a direct replacement of part number 12569240 and matching cross-reference numbers.
  • Improves Driveability: Helps resolve common issues such as rough idle, hesitation, poor acceleration, and check engine lights caused by faulty MAP sensors.
  • Durable Under-Hood Design: Constructed from high-quality materials to withstand heat, vibration, and harsh engine conditions for long-lasting reliability.
  • Direct Replacement Installation: Plug-and-play design ensures quick and easy installation with no modifications required.

Description

Maintain peak engine performance with the Formula Auto Parts MAP1 Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor. This sensor plays a critical role in monitoring intake manifold pressure, allowing the engine control module to calculate the correct air and fuel mixture for efficient combustion. Designed to meet or exceed OEM standards, this MAP sensor helps restore proper engine function by improving throttle response, fuel efficiency, and overall drivability. It is an ideal solution for resolving issues such as rough idle, hesitation, or check engine light conditions caused by inaccurate pressure readings. The MAP1 sensor is engineered for a precise fit, ensuring a straightforward plug-and-play installation without the need for modifications. Its durable construction is built to perform reliably under extreme under-hood conditions including high heat and vibration. Compatible with a wide range of applications including Buick Century, Regal, LeSabre, Electra, and other GM vehicles, as well as select Acura models. Always verify your OEM part number (12569240) or matching cross-reference numbers to ensure proper fitment. brand_description Formula Auto Parts

Brand: Formula Auto Parts


Material: Metal


Style: Modern


Mounting Type: Flange Mount


Output Type: Push Button


Mounting Type: Flange Mount


Output Type: Push Button


Specific Uses For Product: Electrical


Material Type: Metal


Style Name: Modern


Brand Name: Formula Auto Parts


Model: MAP1


UPC: 817224021977


Global Trade Identification Number: 77


Manufacturer: Formula Auto Parts


Included Components: Part


Item Type Name: Sensor


Part Number: MAP1


Frequently asked questions

If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is: within 30 days

Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.

To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.

View our full returns policy here.

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Top Amazon Reviews

    • There are two ways to solve a problem.
Those two ways for me were to pay some less than competent mechanics way too much in parts and labor or to do it myself in the driveway for a fraction of the cost. My ‘90 Chevy K2500 350-TBI 5.7L pickup just died turning a corner and would not start again. I was on the shoulder of the road with a trailer full of dirt so I opted to have it towed to the only auto shop in my county or I would have to have the truck towed 40-miles to the next available collection of auto shops. After 10-days, I gave up on the mechanics and had it towed 10-miles to my home after they were unable to diagnose the problem and had resorted to guessing what was the issue. I found there were actually two issues… one was that it died and would not start again and the other was that once I solved the starting problem I still had a rough idle, vibration, trouble accelerating and backfiring like a misfire or not all cylinders firing properly… the later issue seemed odd since I didn’t have that prior to the engine dying. The mechanic had already eliminated the IAC, fuel pump, plugs, cables, distributor cap/rotor and the coil by replacing them all. I also didn’t find any vacuum leaks so I bought parts for the easy possibilities and hoped to solve it before a distributor and/or ECM replacement. I went with the EGR Solenoid, Ignition Module, Temperature Sensor, MAP Sensor, O2 Sensor and another Ignition Coil (just in case it was an intermittent issue) for about 110-bucks total. I also bought a distributor and ECM just in case and both were about another 100-bucks total. Lastly, I pulled the IAC to see if it had been properly set and it was OK. I really didn’t want to engine dive since I’m tall, the truck sits high off the ground and I’m in my seventies and not quite as flexible to crawl into the engine compartment. The ignition Module was the problem with the engine dying and the other problem was the mechanic had the wires on cylinders 5 & 7 reversed. The short story is this part was/wasn’t the answer to my problem. The longer story is detailed below and may be worth a read if your vehicle issues are not readily known. The Map Sensor wasn’t what made my engine die but replacing it did help the engine run a bit smoother and more as it should. This was a perfect fit and since it was one of the parts I suspected as being the problem I replaced the old one because it was old and probably should be replaced anyway before I reset the ECM. First of all, don’t think all is fine just because your ECM isn’t making the check engine light come on… like a failed fuel pump or a bad distributor. Also, some issues are intermittent or happen because something else failed or you did something wrong. if you have a good mechanic with some test equipment like an oscilloscope that they know how to use, and you have the money to pay for that work, you can probably stop reading now because what’s coming is a more trial & error process based on my knowledge of what could be the likely culprits and having worked on the truck for the last 25-years. I replaced the engine, and a lot of parts, in 2015 and it was a GM crate that someone put in a Suburban and then totaled the vehicle a few months later so it had minimal mileage and all the parts. I didn’t know how long they had been on the engine and some looked like OEM parts but I knew none were any younger than 7-years old so I didn’t see swapping out those old parts as an issue even if they weren’t causing my current problems. It had been running fine ever since that swap until I made a 40-mile trip to town with my trailer for a few yards of compost. After a few a stops I had a hard time starting it and then once started it would stall once in gear. I managed to get out of town and it ran OK on the highway home but when I slowed down to turn on the last road home it just died. I rolled to the side of the road but it wouldn’t start. I was just a few miles from home but also in a little town that had some services and an auto repair shop. I chose to have it towed to the shop and they were nice enough to also tow my trailer home for me so I figured I was in good hands. I thought it was the fuel pump but 3-days later they told me it was the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) so that replacement got me to about 400-bucks after some diagnostics and the towing charges. It wasn’t the problem so they next said it was the fuel pump and that got me to about 600-bucks. That wasn’t it either and then it was diagnosed as an electrical issue which meant new plugs, cap, rotor, cables, fuel filter and timing which also didn’t solve the problem but now I was at a little over a grand. The truck would start with some difficulty with the gas pedal fully depressed but it ran rough and then could stall out once warm and was hard to start again and I was told it would never make the 8-mile trip back to my garage. Clearly, their diagnostics weren’t helping and we were now down to what seemed like replacing parts one at a time until the problem was solved and that would be very expensive considering their parts cost were much more than what I would pay here and then the labor cost was a killer. I called it quits and had it towed home for 50-bucks and then ordered the parts that I thought could be responsible all at once rather than one at a time because if one didn’t work it would just add more days with a truck I couldn’t use just when I needed it. I had a spare fuel pump in the garage so if I had it towed home in the first place I could have done what was done in the shop for about 150-bucks total… including the tow. The problem is most likely somewhere between the ECM, distributor and the TBI but I rebuilt the TBI with the engine swap and put in new injectors so it was down to a trial and error swap until I got it resolved. There are many things that can cause a vehicle to run rough, stall and/or be hard to start but when it happens suddenly it’s most often a part, sensor or module failure but it can also just be low on gas, low fuel pressure or a clogged filter. The filters were replaced and the fuel pressure is now good with the new pump so it’s just a guessing game and it’s much less expensive in my driveway than at a shop to be making those guesses. As an example, the IAC alone cost me about 130-bucks and about 70-bucks to replace it and it would have cost me 25-bucks and about 20-minutes of my time had I done it myself. I never kept track of the parts I replaced over the years but they fail over time from heat as much as they do mileage and even though my truck only gets minimal use the hot high desert summers, engine heat and pavement heat do some damage so it’s not a bad idea to replace some even if they’re still working. If a machine can’t tell someone exactly what the problem is then you either need a great mechanic who knows older vehicles or you’re going to be swapping parts, checking wires, checking connectors, looking for a vacuum leak or looking for a ground or short but I can’t afford to have a shop do it when they have now been wrong three out three times in telling me what was wrong. I did get it running again after a 25-buck replacement part but replaced more since I was at it to have everything in good condition when I started driving around to reset the ECM. The Ignition module was the problem but it needed a little more to get it running smoothly again but I did stay under 100-bucks for everything. I got a great deal on a rebuilt ECM (46-bucks) so I may replace that later or just keep it in the parts box as a just in case. While I could get it to idle nicely I still had the issues under load conditions and I wasn’t going anywhere quickly in it… plus it still had a loit of vibration. For lack of anything else to do on a nice Sunday afternoon I decided to do a resistance check on all the plug cables to see if they were good from end to end. I pulled them one at a time from the cap and plug and then checked them with my little multi-meter. All was good until I hit cylinder five and couldn’t get a reading so I checked the cap end with the cable from plug seven and got a reading… whoa… they were reversed and that was the probe and it was caused by the idiots at the shop who would likely never have checked their work before charging me for more labor and parts. That meant the entire “tune-up” they performed was likely unnecessary and those 6-buck plugs they put in are no better than the ones I put in last year at about a buck each. They should have checked the cables once the truck started misfiring, backfiring through the TBI and vibrating because those are the symptoms of crossed wires but I discounted it because I thought for sure a mechanic could get the right cable on the right spot on the distributor and then to the right spark plug… silly me. When the mechanics did my tune-up they set the timing but they did it wrong. On these older GM trucks you have to disconnect the ECM by pulling a connection before you do the timing or it’ll have an advance on it from the ECM and it will never be at zero. Disconnect the ECM, bring it up to full operating temperature, set the timing, reconnect the ECM, turn off the truck and disconnect the negative battery cable for a minute to reset the computer. So, two of my problems were caused by the mechanics but that’s what made me look for other things because I assumed that what they did was correct. Anyway, problems solved and I doubt I will ever have anyone other than myself work on my truck ever again. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on April 24, 2022 by Todd M.
    • Not complicated just annoying
Direct replacement for old part. Not hard to replace just time consuming which makes it annoying especially having to lay on the engine itself to reach. Unless you play basketball then you're probably tall enough and have long enough arms to make it easy to reach.
Reviewed in the United States on July 26, 2022 by Frankie M.
    • Great fii direct replacement
Fits, runs, no issues
Reviewed in the United States on March 28, 2022 by Alex Carpenter
    • Prompt Service and Correct Part
The sensor is for my 1990 4WD, V6 Isuzu Trooper.
Reviewed in the United States on February 18, 2022 by John Henry Osborn II
    • Works, but required a slight modification
Worked on a 1988 Jeep Comanche 4.0. The connector is the same style, but slightly shorter. I had to cut about 1/4" off of the Jeep side plug to get it to fit. Not ideal, but it will work. Besides, where else am I going to get 33 year factory parts? Lol
Reviewed in the United States on March 6, 2021 by Coyote
    • nice
its going to do the job
Reviewed in the United States on July 30, 2021 by Robert E Wesch
    • Works
Works as it should
Reviewed in the United States on July 4, 2021 by Nelson Cox
    • Works
It does what its supposed to do.
Reviewed in the United States on November 4, 2021 by Jonathan Jones

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