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EPOXY Resin Crystal Clear 1 Gallon Kit | 1:1 Resin and Hardener for Super Gloss Coating | for Bars, Outdoor Table Top, Countertop, Art | Safe for Use on Wood, Metal, Stone, Plastic, Marine Sealer

  • Based on 5,384 reviews
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Availability: In Stock.
Fulfilled by Continentalny

Arrives May 24 – May 28
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Features

  • FLAWLESS CRYSTAL CLEAR COATING - Achieve crystal clear, flawlessly transparent epoxy coatings with our ultra high performance 1 gal. resin and hardener kit! This premium professional grade epoxy goes on smooth and dries evenly to eliminate crawling, trickling, craters and "fish eyes".
  • CUSTOM DIY PROJECTS, ARTWORK, SURFACES - Create customized works of one-of-a-kind artisan craftsmanship. Perfect for DIY projects, countertops, bar tops, tabletops, river tables, jewelry, vehicle surface sealing, coffee tables, arts & crafts and nearly endless creative possibilities!
  • UV, SCRATCH AND WATER-RESISTANT - We're committed to the highest quality engineering and production standards. Our dedicated research & development team has meticulously perfected the East Coast Resin epoxy formula for superior UV-resistance, scratch-resistance, and moisture-resistance when compared to other industry brands.
  • SAFE AND ODORLESS - Surfaces coated with our premium epoxy are 100% safe for food to touch, and durably maintain their structural integrity over time without breaking down or leaching chemicals. Our odorless formula requires no mask and makes it easy to breathe and work in comfort all day long.
  • EXTRA EASY TO APPLY - With East Coast Resin epoxy, you don't have to be a pro to achieve professional results the very first time! Our smooth-coating resin & hardener kit is straightforward and easy to apply - even as a first-time novice or beginner hobbyist. Detailed instructions are included with each kit.

Description

PREMIUM EASY-ON EPOXY FOR SUPER GLOSS COATING Are you looking for a flawlessly glass-clear epoxy that will make surfaces, countertops, and craft projects vibrantly come to life? Do you want to guarantee DIY project perfection without the hassle or do-over? Achieve professional-level, crystal clear results with this stunning surface epoxy from East Coast Resin! EPOXY MADE EASY Anyone can do it! Our kit contains one part resin and one part hardener. Mix in a 1:1 ratio, pour, and then smooth with a foam spreader. Detailed instructions come with each kit. Knock out multiple projects in a day with ultra fast 30 to 35-minute work times. Minimal bubbles that naturally appear during coating can be quickly heated and burned off with a blowtorch or heat gun. DURABLE – RESILIENT – LONG-LASTING Formulated with superior UV and moisture protection that resists yellowing, rain, humidity, and is ideal for long-term outdoor applications. Durable and extra hard-setting to resist scratches and scoring. SAFE FOR USE ON: ✅ Wood ✅ Veneer ✅ Aluminum ✅ Stainless ✅ Tile ✅ Carbon fiber ✅ Fiberglass ✅ Canvas ✅ Ceramic ✅ Painted surfaces ✅ Tabletops ✅ Porcelain ✅ Concrete ✅ Stone ✅ Rocks ✅ Cork ✅ Pennies ✅ Bottle caps ✅ Artwork ✅ Acrylic paint Bring surfaces to life and perfectly personalize every new project... Click ‘ADD TO CART’ or ‘BUY NOW ‘ Today!

Brand: East Coast Resin


Specific Uses For Product: Craft


Material: Epoxy Resin


Compatible Material: Porcelain, Wood, Aluminum, Fiberglass, Glass, Ceramic, Plastic, Carbon Fiber, Concrete, Metal, Stone, Acrylic See more


Item Form: Liquid


Is Discontinued By Manufacturer ‏ : ‎ No


Product Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 9 x 4.5 x 10 inches; 8 Pounds


Item model number ‏ : ‎ CCER1


Date First Available ‏ : ‎ September 15, 2014


Manufacturer ‏ : ‎ East Coast Resin


Best Sellers Rank: #88,639 in Tools & Home Improvement (See Top 100 in Tools & Home Improvement) #80 in Household Polyurethanes, Shellac & Varnish


#80 in Household Polyurethanes, Shellac & Varnish:


Customer Reviews: 4.6 4.6 out of 5 stars 5,384 ratings


Frequently asked questions

If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is: May 24 – May 28

This item is non-returnable:

Non-returnable due to hazmat safety reasons

View our full returns policy here.

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Top Amazon Reviews


  • Great clear epoxy for bar tops and counters. Go in thin layers for best results.
This item was purchased for a counter top project to be installed in a retail store. The slab of wood has live edges on both long sides, square cuts on the ends, and is approximately 24"x102" (17 sq-ft) and 4 inches thick. A big piece of wood. Long story short I am very pleased with this product for this application. This is NOT a casting epoxy. It is best to build up your project depth working in relatively thin layers of 1/32" to 1/16" at a time. If you want to do a river table that has some deep pours (>1/4") get a casting epoxy. The bottles with the resin and hardener are clearly labeled and sturdy. The 4 pages of instruction were very helpful and thorough enough to get it right the first time. The product goes on as well as any other epoxy I have used. The mixing was done with an impeller type mixer and cordless drill, in 8/8 oz. (16 oz. total) batches. I make smaller batches so you have more working time with the epoxy. I got about 30 minutes of ideal working time. After 45 minutes you better just stick to torching bubbles and not touch the epoxy. It starts to stiffen at that point and doesn't self level as well. Air bubbles were taken care of with a propane torch after all of the batches had been poured and spread evenly with a plastic notched trowel. The torch is much faster than a heat gun but can scorch the epoxy if you stay too long in one spot or get too close to the epoxy. Some helpful tips for this product: 1. READ THE PROVIDED INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE MIXING AND POURING. Pretty simple, but there is some good information there that will help you out. This one gallon kit will add about 1/8" of depth to a 16 sq-ft project. If you want 1/4", you will need 2 gallons. 2. If putting on unsealed wood, you will need a seal coat. All this does is seal up the grains in the wood. Pour on a small batch of epoxy and spread it out over your project with a squeegee. Don't try to build up depth on the seal coat because you will drive yourself nuts fighting bubbles the whole time, and some bubbles will undoubtedly never come to the top. Let that sit for at least 4 hours before you try to build thickness. Give 4 hours of cure time for each layer you put on. 3. Put both bottles in a bucket of warm water (90-100F) and let them warm up for 1/2 an hour or so. This thins out the epoxy which makes any bubbles easier to get out after you've mixed and poured. Ideally the resin and hardener will be at 85F when you mix them and pour the epoxy. Don't go any hotter than that or you will have less working time. 4. Turn your A/C and any fans off a couple of hours before and leave them off while you're pouring. Little specks of dust will settle out from the air and are visible in the epoxy. Yes, you can sand those out and polish the epoxy back to a glass finish, but better to avoid having to do that if you can help it. 5. When you have all the bubbles out and start to just babysit the project, leave the room and turn off the lights. Only turn the lights on when you go back every 30 minutes or so to check on things. If you leave the lights on, any flying insects in the room are going to light on the project. I don't know if it's Murphy's Law or if they like the shiny wet looking surface or the lights reflected on it. Either way, bugs land in your epoxy and you have to deal with it. If that happens, get them out ASAP. A pair of tweezers, toothpicks, or dental picks work for this. 6. If you are letting the top run down the sides of your project, wet the sides with a cheap paintbrush. I prefer a bristle brush after I've removed all of the loose bristles. A foam brush just doesn't work as well for me. Look for loose bristles on your project. Again, toothpicks and tweezers get them out easy. Make sure all the sides are wet with epoxy while it's still flowing. Otherwise it will run down in streaks and beads. Epoxy will form little drop icicles on the bottom. Start scraping them off 45 minutes or so after pouring. Keep doing that until the epoxy starts to solidify. Much less sanding that way. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on March 29, 2020 by Seth from Haynesville

  • Awesome Product - Be Proactive in your application.
I purchased this product to coat my custom copper countertops. I used a thin copper sheeting and the corners started lifting and were sort of sharp. I theorized that this product would coat the corners and edges to eliminate the sharp corners and it worked. This product is SUPER glossy and if I did this again, I would look for a matte product but if you are looking for crystal clear super shine results, this product is awesome. I will be using this product a ton and plan to use it to coat my workbenches in my shop to create an ultra-hard work surface. Here is my story and some application tips. I waited a while (6 months) before using this product in order to allow the copper to Patina a little longer. Once I was ready, I waited even longer because their application instructions made it seem like it was a PIA process. When I finally decided to do this, I looked up videos on epoxy countertop applications that were not specific to this manufacturer and it turns out that all epoxies are mostly the same. I found a technique that worked very well and was super simple so here are my tips. Tools I used are 1/8" notch trowel (like the one you use for thinset and mortar), paint mixing stick, drill with mixing attachment, timer, resin paper (to protect surfaces from run-off), GOOD - not cheap - painters tape; 24 oz disposable mixing buckets (with measurement indicators), large (at least 60 oz) durable mixing container, foam brush; propane torch and/or heat gun), acetone, shop rags, 100% alcohol or denatured alcohol (for prep), tack cloth, work light (or adequate overhead lighting; NOTE - I had 32 square feet to cover and found that 30 minutes was a perfect amount of working time so I would not do anymore surface area than this per mix; READY TO GO? - Clean surface with alcohol first; be VERY detailed in covering up areas below to protect from potential run-off; DO NOT use tools that you want to keep, everything you use will require excess cleaning time to restore so plan on throwing this stuff away afterwards unless you do not mind having hardened epoxy on it; make sure that your torch OR heat gun is actually working and that you have a back up plan ready to go if your heat source fails (or runs out); Have acetone and rags ready to use for clean up of spillage; make sure that your surface is 100% free of debris and dust - use a tack cloth if you want to be absolutely certain; ensure that you have adequate lighting to spot imperfections during application; Before mixing and applying, triple check your work and run-off protection - ALSO, use painters tape to outline edge the bottom of your work piece, just make sure that the tape is NOT hanging over the edge - this ensures that your drips on the sides will not create epoxy icicles which are not the funnest thing to remove; make sure that you have a STURDY container for mixing - I mixed mine with a drill and compound mixer attachment and I used a very thin container to mix it in, the product is thick at first and when I mixed it with a drill, the mixer attachment grabbed on to the product and twisted the mixing container out of my hands and spilled a large amount of product onto the surface I was mixing on - I should have used a bigger and thicker container to mix in and should have mixed it on something that I did not care had spillage; mix a 1:1 ratio that yields 3 fluid oz of mixture/square foot of surface (don't forget to include the sides of the workpiece in your calculations) and mix with a drill for two minutes; after mixing is done, set a timer for 20 minutes to alert you that you only have 10 more minutes of working time, Pour mixture along the center of the work piece (apply what you think you need but try to be conservative, a little goes a long way, you can always add more, this helps avoid waste and run-off), spread product from middle to edges with the notched part of your notch trowel, once the top is fully coated, run the trowel from front to back towards edges to get excess to run over edges, run your work light over the entire piece to look for areas that were not coated and coat as necessary, run foam brush over entire work piece to smooth out application and cover missed spots, let product be for 2 minutes, use torch or heat gun to go over ENTIRE surface (keep flame about 6 inches away from surface AND keep in mind that heat will cause any adhesive below to fail or loosen so do not keep a heat source on one spot for more than a second; wait two minutes and repeat heating (even if you do not see bubbles); set a timer for 30 minutes, after 30 minutes has gone by, heat the entire work piece a final time; wait 24 - 72 hours before putting anything on it (24 hours is enough time, but why not be super certain?); Repeat as necessary. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on December 9, 2018 by Scott Vazinski

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