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Wagner

Wagner Spraytech 0518080 Control Spray Max Corded Hvlp Paint Sprayer, 120 Vac, 5 A, 510 W, 80 Cfm, 2.7 Psi, 19 L D by 12-Inch H, Multicolor

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Size: Control Spray Max


Features

  • HVLP PAINT SPRAYER: The Control Spray Max paint sprayer uses high volume, low pressure technology to atomize materials into fine particles and provide a smooth finish on door trim, decks, furniture, more
  • USE WITH A WIDE VARIETY OF MATERIALS: Powerful two-stage turbine makes it easy to paint walls and surfaces with thinned latex paints and thinner materials like stains and poly
  • ADJUSTABLE SETTINGS: Customize your paint flow by using the pressure control dial and material flow adjuster to receive the perfect finish every time. Turn the air cap to spray round, horizontal, or vertical
  • GREAT DESIGN: The stationary base is connected to the spray gun with a 20 ft. hose to easily reach your painting project and reduce hand fatigue. Also includes a 1 12 qt. cup and professional grade metal 1 qt. cup

Description

The Control Spray Max provides a smooth, consistent finish in less time than traditional painting methods. The controls give you the ability to adjust based on the project you’re working on and the type of material being used, which are features that a spray can or brush can’t offer! The spray patterns range from 1/2" to 12" wide depending on the settings, which allow for optimum control and precision for fine finish work. HVLP technology uses a high volume of air at low pressure to atomize materials into fine particles. This results in a professional finish, with virtually no overspray. Package includes a Control Max sprayer, 1 qt. metal cup, 1.5 qt. plastic cup, 20 ft. hose, viscosity cup and user manual. Please reference owner's manual for tips, troubleshooting and thinning guidelines. From the Manufacturer The Control Spray Max sprays materials in patterns from 1/2" to 12" wide with optimum control and precision making it superior to brushes and spray cans for fine finish work. HVLP technology uses a high volume of air at low pressure to atomize materials into fine particles. This results in a professional finish, with virtually no overspray.

Brand: Wagner


Tank Volume: 1.5 Quarts


Color: Yellow/Black


Recommended Uses For Product: 20 ft. hose, Adjustable flow control with 3 spray patterns, Superior nozzle, Use with a variety of materials, Variable aire pressure control See more


Material: Metal, Plastic


Brand: ‎Wagner


Tank Volume: ‎1.5 Quarts


Color: ‎Yellow/Black


Recommended Uses For Product: ‎20 ft. hose, Adjustable flow control with 3 spray patterns, Superior nozzle, Use with a variety of materials, Variable aire pressure control


Material: ‎Metal, Plastic


Item Weight: ‎10 Pounds


Product Dimensions: ‎12"W x 18.5"H


Style: ‎HVLP Stain Sprayer


Power Source: ‎AC/DC


Included Components: ‎20 ft. Hose, Cleaning Kit, Control Spray Max HVLP Sprayer, Instruction Guide, Metal Cup, Nozzle, Plastic Cup


Model Name: ‎Control Spray


Maximum Pressure: ‎2.63 Pound per Square Inch


Hose Length: ‎240 Inches


UPC: ‎172304346044 872182815730 080850317329 100177418544 021112826692 763615760683 716080067405 072080017353 024964194964 051020034193 752913147326 651256045354 191120025209 151902999838 351428773442 803982727404 172302816594


Global Trade Identification Number: ‎64,


Manufacturer: ‎Wagner Spraytech


Part Number: ‎Control Spray Max


Item Weight: ‎10 pounds


Item model number: ‎0518080


Is Discontinued By Manufacturer: ‎No


Size: ‎Control Spray Max


Pattern: ‎Painter


Voltage: ‎120 Volts


Item Package Quantity: ‎1


Batteries Included?: ‎No


Batteries Required?: ‎No


Warranty Description: ‎1 Year


Date First Available: June 18, 2010


Frequently asked questions

If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is: Nov 23 – Nov 24

Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.

To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.

View our full returns policy here.

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Similar Products

Top Amazon Reviews

    • buy it now, you won't regret the professional results you get and the easy clean up
Size: Control Spray
Review Image by MJ Poppyseed MJ Poppyseed
I had this exact same sprayer and absolutely loved it. Then one day I rested it on the work table in our garage and someone accidentally knocked it over, breaking the little clip that holds the sprayer part to the motor/fan. So frustrating since everything was still in working order--motor, cups, etc. it's just that nothing held the cup assembly onto the sprayer. This is dangerous since the fan/blower needs to be firmly secured. I probably could've held it on by making sure I used 2 hands and kept holding the trigger but that's dangerous with a cup full of paint on pieces I took quite a bit of time to prep. I had the usable front part so I figured I'd buy another one. This is cheaper than the big orange and blue box stores, at least at the time of this writing, and it works exactly the same way as my old one. I use this only for water based paints and sealers-- I can't imagine cleaning up every little piece with mineral spirits for oil based items. If you thin the paint properly and keep everything clean, you will get an amazingly professional finish. When first starting, pull the trigger to initiate the motor but not hard enough to start spraying: this will allow pressure to build in the cup for a more even finish. Hold for a couple seconds (I sometimes get a little pop sound) then pull all the way to get the paint to dispense. Do not go right to your actual piece before testing on a scrap piece of cardboard! Don't be frustrated if paint doesn't come out immediately. Hold it there for longer than you'd think was comfortable. Try making right left passes on your cardboard, go up and down. If after awhile nothing is coming out then you may need to thin your paint more. Don't worry if you're thinning more than the manufacturer says-- my pieces come out fine. Also don't stand too close or stay in one spot too long. Remember, multiple light coats are better than drippy thick ones. Also be aware of the bend of the inner tube-- for example if you are spraying upwards and the bend of the tube is kicked forward, you might get some sputtering when your paint level gets low. The same is true if you pointing downward and the bend is toward the back of the cup. When I stop between coats, I take off the cup assembly and rinse out all the pieces so paint doesn't dry inside or on the nozzle. I cover the cup with some tin foil then put it all back together and go back to spraying when the first coat is dry. It is VERY easy to clean-- I undo the cup and toss the tube and yellow ring along with the front black part that the paint sprays through into a bucket of water in the sink. Rinse out all the pieces then reassemble. Sometimes I need to use an old toothbrush if I had a lot of pieces to paint or it was hot outside because the paint could dry and build up around the hole. This is a great entry level sprayer, and everytime we use it we remark how great the finish looks. I'm amazed every time. And over time it saves you money because you are not buying cans of spray paint. Even with polyurethane you can save a ton by buying a quart of water based and using the sprayer. Plus you're not breathing in the fumes from the oil based spray paints. I just finished a large wooden sign and 4 coats of semigloss went on in less than an hour with super professional results (in the pic I sprayed the matte black background, built the frame, then after stenciling, spray sealed). I've also used it for furniture, especially items with curves or corners... your days of brushes will be over! ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on January 8, 2018 by MJ Poppyseed MJ Poppyseed
    • Great Sprayer for the DIYer
Size: Control Spray Max
I bought this quite awhile back (a little over a year ago), so I have used this item a lot. I now have a more expensive (10X the cost) HVLP rig, but I have found that this little Wagner gun is so MUCH more VERSATILE and EASIER to use, that I use this one more often than the expensive one. I can spray oil-based paints and primers, as well as water-based products, with hardly any effort. Cleaning up is fast and easy, too. You CAN get a 100% perfect, professional finish IF you take your time, read and re-read the manual, and you practice with it, first. Do not expect to pull it out of the box, fill it, spray with it, and have perfect results. I suggest that you gather lots of cardboard and buy a can (quart or gallon) of cheap paint (the same type as your first project requires (water- or oil-based)). Then, buy the appropriate diluent (read the paint can), the compatible additive (i.e., Penetrol for oil-based paints and Floetrol for water-based paints). While you're at the paint store (or you are on Amazon.com) pick up some medium size (pertaining to particle filtration size, not overall size) disposable paint filters. My two spray painting mantras are, "Practice does make perfect!" and "Paint additives can make ALL THE DIFFERENCE IN THE WORLD between a professional-looking paint job, and just an awful looking paint job!" That's it in a nutshell, but I've written at length about the first time I used this sprayer. If what I learned can help you get great results on your first project, it may be worth the time it takes to read: My first project was not the smartest one to choose as a first project to paint with a spray gun. It was the wainscoting and trim in my dining room. But, it came out so perfect, that even after a year, the glassy, smooth, sprayed surfaces still impresses me so much, I cannot believe I did them! But, back then, I didn't know any better, so I thought I would just start right in with the painting, buying the exact same paint and color (Sherwin Williams Alkyd) the installers had used. I lightly sanded all of the wainscoting and trim, as best I could, to scuff up the surfaces. I also used a liquid deglosser, since sanding detailed trim is thankless, tedious work. But, most of all, I spent a lot of time caulking (using PAINTABLE caulk) areas that had pulled apart from "settling," or that were not properly caulked by the installers in the first place. I let the caulk dry thoroughly. Actually, it was all the cracks and crevices in the joined edges of the woodwork caused by improper (or complete lack of) caulking, and some due to settling, that had caused the need to paint the trim and wainscotting. Next, I started in with the viscosity tests. I used paint thinner first, but then I read up on additives. So, I switched to using a combination of paint thinner and Penetrol (by Flood, purchased at Lowes). I can't recall the exact ratio of paint thinner to Penetrol I ended up using, but I think it would be safe to say about half and half. Of course, paint thinner was what my product called for as a thinning agent. Paint additives, like Floetrol and Penetrol, help produce a smooth, glassy finish. The additives can help make up for a multitude of sins! For example, if you did not properly adjust your air/paint flow, you could end up with a painted surface that has an orange peel texture (a common problem). If it's not too bad, the additives themselves can make that problem completely disappear! But, that's not too surprising, because one of their purposes is to reduce, or eliminate, brush marks! Once I had all of my paint thinner and Penetrol added in order to achieve an acceptable viscosity test, I was alarmed at how much I had diluted the paint! I had definitely diluted it beyond what the manufacturer had recommended (as stated on the can). Thankfully, I was worried enough that I decided to practice on some cardboard, rather than on the dining room walls, first, as I had planned on doing after reading all of the positive reviews here, thinking I could just spray the walls and get great results! And, although it didn't take long before I was able to get a nice, smooth coating on the cardboard, I am really thankful I did! I would have been scraping and sanding walls, for sure! I also stood the cardboard up vertically, like the surface I would be spraying (vertical surfaces are much harder to spray without getting drips and runs), so I could get a feel for how much paint I could apply before getting runs. It wasn't very much! I had to keep the gun moving relatively quickly. But, by then, I had to send my husband back to Sherwin-Williams for another can of paint, just to be sure I would have enough paint! Before getting to the viscosity tests, though, I had basically turned my dining room into a giant spray booth, but without an explosion-proof fan mounted in the window! I covered the windows, ceiling, and upper walls with plastic, masking off all of the edges. I also taped plastic over the two doorways, masking around all of the edges of EVERYTHING. I used thick plastic drop cloths on the floor, but I goofed by not taping them down as securely as I should have. So, I had to stop and do some clean-up and remedial taping when I saw that the air coming out of the nozzle was blowing up the edges of the plastic! Naturally, I used a respirator, and was covered head-to-toe in disposable painting attire. The air was thick with paint mist when I did paint. But, I expected that in the enclosed space. I put on a total of four coats, as I thought with all of the diluting, they would be thin coats. They were, but I wouldn't say that was a bad thing! I don't own a mill gauge (something I just recently learned about!), so I couldn't tell you how thick each coat was, but they were thick enough to cover bare wood without being transparent enough to see the wood grain show through, but not so thick that it would cause runs or drips. I always sprayed a small piece of cardboard, leaving it in the dining room, but near the opening, so I could easily check when the paint was dry enough to recoat, without touching the trim or walls themselves. It dried much quicker than I had anticipated, given all of the dilution. I did get a couple of runs, but I just sanded them off when the paint had dried enough to produce a powder when sanded, and not rub or rip. Of course, I sprayed these areas again. Even with the massive amount of prep work required (most of it would have still been required if I was brushing-on the paint, such as all of the caulking), the amount of time It took to spray, clean-up, dry, spray, clean-up, etc., was only a fraction of that time that would have been required for me to brush on all of the coats! The results were, as I said, spectacular. Today, the wainscoting and trim still look as fantastic as they did the day II had finished painting them. I was worried the dilution of the paint would have affected the wear or appearance of the surfaces, but it did not. So, I would never be afraid to dilute paint more than stated by the manufacturer on the can. Not being a paint professional, I do not know how they arrive at those figures, but for myself, I would always dilute the product according to what is recommended in the sprayer manual (using viscosity cup and timing the flow), and not what is stated on the can. But, I always read the can of the product I am using, because it tells me what to use in order to thin the product (the diluent). For oil-based PRIMERS, I use only the recommended diluent or solvent, and I omit the additive (Penetrol). To date, I have not used water-based PRIMERS, but I would probably only use distilled water for the diluent (unless the can stated to use another type of diluent, that isn't water). A shellac-based PRIMER would probably call for denatured alcohol as the diluent. Again, always defer to the can/manufacturer for the diluent to use, but defer to the sprayer manual for the proper dilution rate (using the viscosity cup). For water-based paints, I use a mixture of one part distilled water and one part Floetrol (50-50) to dilute the paint. I also use a medium filter for all paints and primers, and it is the last thing I do before I spray paint. Disposable filters are cheap, so I use a fresh, new filter when I fill or refill my sprayer cup. If I fill the cup three times during a project, I've used three filters. I always gather some cardboard to use to warm-up on, and, most importantly, to help me fine-tune the settings on the sprayer, so that I achieve the best finish possible. If your paint is properly diluted, and your spray is properly adjusted, I just don't think you will be ever be unhappy with the results. Thoroughly cleaning up your equipment as soon as you are finished painting is also extremely important. If you have a tiny, dried, speck of paint in the nozzle, you will not get good results. I have found those really thick pipe cleaners (oh, excuse me, I mean CHENILLE STEMS) are invaluable as an aid to cleaning out the inside of the slanted plastic tube that is inserted into the paint cup. Some other tips I've learned include spray painting early in the morning, when there is less likely to be a breeze, if I am painting something outside. Avoid spraying in direct sunlight, too. Finally, if there is a result that is not to your liking, Google it to find a solution to the problem. I have learned so much from doing this, and watching Youtube videos, too. If all else fails, call the manufacturer because there is always a small chance you could have a defective part that needs to be replaced. Dilute and practice with your cheap practice paint. If you can achieve a great finish on your cardboard (make sure the cardboard has a smooth surface to begin with, too!) using your cheap paint, you will surely be able to get an amazing finish with your higher quality paints and finishes. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on September 26, 2013 by My3Sons

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