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Availability:
Only 7 left in stock, order soon!
Arrives
Sep 13 – Sep 18
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Color: Titanium Silver Blue
Size: 11 Ounce (Pack of 1)
Features
- Excellent durability and finish
- Superior heat and chemical resistance
- Best when used with primer color paint and clear coat process
- Withstands temperatures up to 650 degrees when cured properly
- This item is not for sale in Catalina Island
Description
VHT SP403 Titanium Silver High Temp (650 degrees Fahrenheit) Engine Metallic has excellent durability and superior heat and chemical resistance. It is specially formulated to withstand corrosion, rust, salt spray, chemicals and additives of today's gasoline blends and degreasers. VHT's Engine Metallics is a unique blend of urethane and ceramic resins, which produce a long-lasting finish for engines, engine accessories or wherever a tough durable heat and chemical resistant finish is needed. Engine Metallics coating creates a cool sparkling metallic finish and withstands intermittent temperatures up to 650 degrees Fahrenheit. VHT SP403 is part of a multi high performance coating system for the ultimate protection and quality. The coating system products consist of surface prep, engine primer, engine metallic, and engine clear. VHT Engine Metallic coating dries to the touch in 30 minutes and completely over night. VHT Metallic coating only attains its unique qualities after correct curing. Curing occurs with normal engine operating temperatures or parts can be heated to 200 degrees Fahrenheit. Complete application and curing process instructions are also printed on each can.
Manufacturer: VHT
Brand: VHT
Item Weight: 14.4 ounces
Product Dimensions: 1.97 x 7.87 x 7.87 inches
Item model number: SP403
Manufacturer Part Number: SP403
OEM Part Number: SP403
Date First Available: May 8, 2009
Frequently asked questions
If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is:
Sep 13 – Sep 18
Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
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Top Amazon Reviews
Color: Burnt Copper
Size: 11 Ounce (Pack of 1)
UPDATE: The car starts to sputter even though it it’s not empty. I now have to buy a second can to complete the project. Lowered my rating from 5 to 4 stars. There’s no denying that this color looks awesome. It wasn’t the easiest to apply though, which I learned the hard way. One caliper has to be sanded, reprimed and repainted because of how easily this paint runs. It also has a weird spray nozzle that I am not a fan of. Despite all that, the color looks great and if it lasts, ill be happy. I started with 3-4 coats of primer and followed with 4ish coats of paint. Now I’ll do 1-2 coats of clear.
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Reviewed in the United States on February 16, 2020 by Mike P Mike P
Color: Burnt Copper
Size: 11 Ounce (Pack of 1)
Wow. BEAUTIFUL color!!!! Especially in the sunlight. It’s not as bright as I was hoping for in most light conditions BUT it’s definitely the color I want. I did not want yellow and i did not want a race red like most high performance sports cars. I agree with everyone else who wrote a review before me. TAKE YOUR TIME spraying this color. The nozzle was horrible but I had a 3rd party trigger attachment that i used so it was easy breezy. This paint will run. You have to seriously build up on the coats. I literally sanded, then primed (4 coats) and applied 7 total paint coats — I’m not kidding. And that’s mostly bc i let it run a couple of times and wanted to redo it (did not need to re-sand). I applied 2 coats of clear. Love this finish. If you’re spraying your calipers like me, you don’t need 4 cans. I literally only used 1. You’d be good with buying 2 and maybe one can of clear.
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Reviewed in the United States on November 16, 2020 by Chris C Chris C
Color: Burnt Copper
Size: 11 Ounce (Pack of 1)
I used this product to spray my brake calipers. I started off by sanding then cleaning. (400 grit, 800 grit, 2000 grit) then brake cleaner and alcohol. Followed by masking of all brake components and surrounding parts. (Over spray sucks mask well my friends) Spray the coats smooth and evenly, do not over spray. Follow the instructions and let the product cure properly. I finished my coats off with a gloss clear coat for a layer of protection and shine. Now, it looks amazing. I am very happy with the results and highly recommend this color for those looking to be different!
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Reviewed in the United States on December 17, 2015 by Jeffrey L. Jeffrey L.
Color: Black Pearl
Size: 11 Ounce (Pack of 1)
The finish is pretty nice, but the gloss isn’t deep enough to let the metallic finish be worth it in my opinion. If you want it to look good it better be super smooth and you need to top it with a high temp gloss clear. Even then I wasn’t super thrilled with the finish. If you’re considering it, skip it at $17 a can. I painted a trans. First can finish just looked like an off black almost. Second I got to lay down better and smoother. Gloss clear coat helped quite a bit. However considering gloss black can be had at $5 a can, just get that. Honestly looks better and cheaper
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Reviewed in the United States on May 8, 2021 by Michael C.
Color: Gold Flake
Size: 11 Ounce Can
I have a real love/hate relationship with this VHT paint. On the one hand it is relatively easy and allows guys at home like me to redo projects with that professional look, even if we don't have the professional equipment. There is also some sort of value because if you want to refinish and engine there aren't really many options unless you can afford to take it into a shop and pay them $2000. However, having now purchased roughly 2 dozen cans of this stuff for my motorcycle engine rebuild and two other small projects, I can easily stay I won't be using this stuff anymore. I have had so many frustrations with it at this point, that I wish I didn't have to use it anymore and could go back in time. I'll spare the details, but will clarify that I am using the method for painting specified by VHT and my local paint pros. Here's what I did: 1.) Sandblast engine 2.) Use surface prep liquid (oil removal) 3.) Primed, several times (tried both VHT high temp and self-etching primer, per VHT rep's advice). Light coat, enough to cover, but not build up. 4.) Painted. Follow the instructions to a "T." Recoated within the time window as specified. Let dry. If additional coats were needed, I waited as per the instructions state, lightly sanded, and reapplied. I probably put 5-9 total layers on my application. 5.) Let air cure 6.) Bake in oven (tried 200F per VHT rep's instructions, but 350F worked much better) What really drives me nuts is that I reached out to VHT several times and either got no response, or got very poor support from a rude customer service rep. It sounds simple, but there are some huge issues with the performance of this stuff even after spending hundreds of dollars on prep, paint, and supplies. Going into this I knew it would't be a factory finish and there are some other durable routes out there, but I needed a variety of colors for my custom motorcycle rebuild. This stuff ought to be able to hold up against minor chips and scrapes. It will, in some places, but only after a full cure with temps up past 300-400F (like when you run the engine). My expectation is that it shouldn't chip off from something small dropping onto it such as a small M8 socket from reasonable height. Basically just trying to simulate the every-day bumps and bangs that the paint my see. Also, it should withstand scrapes from moderate pressure, say like a boot rubbing against it. In many areas I've still experienced chips (not even just on corners), easy scratches, and worse bubbling. The bubbling would indicate impurities or oils under the surface, but I don't see how that is possible since I essentially did this all in a clean room, wore rubber gloves whenever I handled the pieces, blasted, and used aluminum specific engine prep liquid. I even hung up plastic sheets and created a clean room while I did this. I am not exaggerating when I say that I was surgically clean with this whole endeavor. There are some areas that seem to have cured to my expectation. For instance I accidentally dropped a flat head screw driver on my valve head cover and it did not chip from the impact. I was quite surprised, because most of the other areas did not get durable like this. My problem is that the engine is mostly covered with this stuff and so I am either forced to redo the entire thing, or try to make what I have on there work. Since I have so much time and money invested in this first paint job, I will simply be forced to try and patch the imperfections (which is the ONLY reason I keep buying this stuff). Some tips for you all, so that you don't have as many problems as I did if you order: 1.) If painting aluminum, do not use the VHT engine primer. It works like crap. Use the Duplicolor (VHT and Duplicolor are basically the same company) self-etching primer. It works much better, and despite not having a temperature rating seems to hold up well to engine heat. 2.) Follow the paint windows instructions on the can. This should be a no-brainer, but the small windows of working time is critical as I found out early on. This issue isn't on VHT since they clearly state it. Simply put, follow their rules and if it is hot out you may even want to play it safe and quit spraying a little earlier. 3.) Like most good paint jobs, if you want to recoat, you MUST sand first. This paint glazes over to a fairly smooth finish, and additional layers will not adhere unless you prep the original paint surface. 4.) VHT recommends baking in the oven at 200F for an hour or two. I found that it was nowhere near enough. What clued me off is that I only got the paint results I was looking for as far as hardness and durability after using some of their similar paint on exhaust and baking it at a full 350+ degrees according to my gauge. After that, I cured my pieces in the oven at 350 for 2 hours and had much better results. 5.) Let the paint air cure for 2 weeks before you bake it or fire the engine up. The instructions specify something much sooner, but I found that if I tried to forcibly cure the finish in less than the week that the results were awful. There is something with letting it dry by itself and then baking it that seems to produce much better results.
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Reviewed in the United States on January 11, 2016 by Max Perkins
Color: Burnt Copper
Size: 11 Ounce (Pack of 1)
I started this task on my S2000 at about 630am, finished it all by about 1030am. This included sanding, taping off with blue painters tape,brake cleaner, 3-4 coats of paint, 2 coats of VHT clear. I let it sit between coats about 20-30 minutes, light even coats. This is the end result, pretty happy so far, first time using VHT, as I used to use G2 caliper paint (with the brush), and I would say it's pretty good. Prep work is crucial as it is essential. I will update in the spring to see how they've held up here in Chicago. I recommend after letting the car sit over night (don't drive it after you put the wheels on once you're done painting other than to move it out of the garage or into a parking spot - drive for about 30-45 minutes and do some nice braking to heat up the calipers and let the paint cure fully.
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Reviewed in the United States on October 18, 2015 by Eddy Eddy
Color: Burnt Copper
Size: 11 Ounce (Pack of 1)
I had plain, ugly calipers and since I was installing new cross drilled rotors I decided to paint them burnt copper metallic. I did what I consider a quick job, I cleaned the calipers fairly well, shot them with 2 coats and a coat of clear gloss. They turned out great and really pop when the sun hits them. They've been done for a year and look as good now as when I first painted them. 20K miles with no issues!
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Reviewed in the United States on May 15, 2020 by G's arcade G's arcade