Reliance Controls 31410CRK Pro/Tran 10-Circuit 30 Amp Generator Transfer Switch Kit,Gray
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Availability:
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Arrives
Monday, Oct 26
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Style: Transfer Switch Kit
Features
- Convenient transfer switch kit, ideal for your circuitry and multi-wiring needs, is also made for reliably-fast installation in both residential and commercial applications
- Designed specifically for generators up to 7,500 maximum running watts
- 18-inch flexible conduit whip attaches easily to the load center
- Maximum single-pole circuits: 10 / Maximum double-pole circuits: 5
- Features a rugged, powder-coated steel cabinet. six combination knockouts and more
Description
The Reliance Controls 31410CRK 30 Amp 10-Circuit Pro/Tran Transfer Switch Kit has everything you need to easily complete a portable generator transfer switch installation in a home or office. The purpose of a transfer switch is to connect a secondary power source, like your very own portable generator, to circuits in your home or building that are wired into the electrical system. Thus, it is designed to enable the wiring system of the building to accept the full power of a portable generator, which can run multiple electrical appliances and devices during a power outage. The transfer switch ensures that you can safely use back up power during a power outage without having to worry about back feeding the utility line. In an emergency situation, this kit can make all the difference. Since 1909, Reliance Controls Corporation has contributed more innovations than any other single manufacturer and has been awarded over 85 patents on manual transfer switches, time switches and accessories. Reliance Controls Corporation specializes in the manufacturing of a wide variety of electrical products. The primary product line consists of heavy duty time clocks and controls, generator accessories, transfer switches and transfer panels for portable generators. And after over a century of innovation, Reliance Controls Corporation has built an enviable reputation for high quality, superior engineering and exceptional customer service. The Reliance Controls Corporation 10-circuit 30 Amp transfer switch kit is a complete turn-key kit with everything needed to make a professional transfer switch installation in a home or office. It is designed to enable the wiring system of the building to accept the full power of a portable generator, which can run multiple electrical appliances and devices during a power outage. Use this transfer switch for up to 8000-watt generators equipped with NEMA L14-20 or L14-30 power outlets. The kit includes a 30 Amp 6-circuit prewired loadside reliance transfer switch with wattmeters; 30 Amp outdoor power cord inlet box, a 30 Amp 10-foot generator power cord with L14-30 ends, and an extra L14-20 cord end for smaller generators. This unit is cUL1008 listed and is covered by a 5-year warranty.
Operation Mode: ON-OFF-ON
Current Rating: 30 A
Operating Voltage: 120 volts_of_alternating_current
Contact Type: Normally Closed
Connector Type: Plug In
Brand: Reliance Controls
Switch Type: Toggle
Terminal: Spst
Item dimensions L x W x H: 7 x 4.5 x 13.75 inches
Circuit Type: parallel
Operation Mode: ON-OFF-ON
Current Rating: 30 A
Operating Voltage: 120 volts_of_alternating_current
Contact Type: Normally Closed
Connector Type: Plug In
Switch Type: Toggle
Terminal: Spst
Circuit Type: parallel
Mounting Type: Surface Mount
Actuator Type: Push Button
Number of Positions: 10
Upper Temperature Rating: 146 °F
Controller Type: Push Button
Control Method: Remote
Connectivity Protocol: X-10
Wattage: 5
Compatible with Vehicle Type: Any Vehicle with Portable Generator
Control Type: manual
Compatible Devices: Portable Generators (up to 7,500 maximum running watts)
Color: Gray
Item Dimensions: 7 x 4.5 x 13.75 inches
Unit Count: 1 Count
Number of Items: 1
Contact Material: Copper
International Protection Rating: IP00
Specification Met: cULus
Brand Name: Reliance Controls
Model: 31410CRK
Global Trade Identification Number: 37
Manufacturer: Reliance Controls
Warranty Description: 5 Years
UPC: 851890000737
Included Components: Transfer Switch, Power Inlet Box, Power Cord
Item Weight: 15 pounds
Part Number: 31410CRK
Frequently asked questions
If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is:
Monday, Oct 26
Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
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Similar Products
Top Amazon Reviews
Style: Transfer Switch Kit
First paragraph is my story. Paragraphs after that are my comments and review. Skip the first paragraph if you just want my comments on this product. I already owned a generator but was looking to stop using extension coords. This package fit my needs to a "T". I installed the outside inlet and had wired that to the inside switch box, but had not done the actual wiring to the breaker panel. I did have the wires into the breaker box, just not connected to anything. I was going to methodically go through all my circuits to balance the load. So much for taking my time. We had lots and lots of rain and about mid day the power went out. I waited 20 minutes and knew it was not coming back on. I was not about to run extension cords, so put on my battery powered headlamp and headed for the breaker panel. First thing was the Fridge. Then the Freezer. Then a bathroom light circuit. I kept watching the built in meters to try and keep things balanced as I was guessing at to how much each circuit would need. Hooked up all 10 switch circuits and was pretty much living like the power never went out. Watching news flashes on TV about the rain, using computer to get email from relatives. In fact, I didn't even realize power was restored till I glanced over to see the clock on the electric stove was on. So much for my story. This product is just what the doctor ordered. Everything except for the wire between the Outside Inlet to Transfer Box was provided. Hook up was very straight forward and instructions were clear. I'm not an electrician, but do have experience and knowledge in wiring. There is nothing that I found that would keep me from buying this product again. Only two things that I will comment on. They are not bad enough to bring down my 5 star rating, just wanted to pass them on. Switches on the transfer box are somewhat easy to trip or throw to another position. Unless you have this in an out of the way area, you may want to see if there is a cover for the front of it so that no one accidently throws a switch by brushing by it. Mine is right by my freezer in the basement, so my shoulder is about equal to the switches. Each switch has 3 positions. LINE, OFF, and GEN. You actually have a hard time getting the switch to the OFF position. When you go to switch it, it almost jumps past the OFF position into the opposite end of it's throw. Once you know that, it's just a matter of being very careful and slow if you want to only go to the OFF position. The wires are marked with the ID of the transfer switch it is wired to, but be very careful as the "H" can be looked at like an "I" and vice versa. Keep in mind I was doing this in the dark with just a flashlight, so that could have been why I needed to look very close to the ID while wiring. I would highly recommend this to anyone needing a hardwired transfer switch. Only other thing to recommend is to map out your existing breakers so that you know exactly what outlets go to what breakers in advance of getting your transfer switch. That will help in deciding what to wire were and what is an absolute necessity in a power outage.
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Reviewed in the United States on October 1, 2010 by GLM in VA
Style: Transfer Switch Kit
After a couple of years with several day long, or longer, power outages we decided to install a backup system. We bought the transfer switch capable of supporting 10 circuits from Amazon. Delivery took about a week and the unit was well packed with no damage. The unit is solid and heavy duty. Installation was very easy and took a total of 4 hours, start to finish. It took longer to run the cable to the outside connector plug than anything else. After carefully mapping my current circuit breakers so that I knew exactly which breaker affected which lights, outlets, and etc. it was time to decide which circuits we would backup. Since the transfer switch supports 240 volt connections and our generator is capable of 10KW peak we were able to divide and balance the load across the two 120 volt legs based on normal and peak power requirements. It took awhile to get the balance figured, then we made a map identifing each circuit breaker and each backup circuit. The drawing is now covered with plastic and on the wall next to the main panel. We also wrote out detailed instructions on how to activate the system and how to transfer back to commercial power. Pretty easy but when the power is out you need to make sure you don't make simple mistakes, like not grounding the generator for example. I know most of what I have said doesn't really address the product but it is useful information for anyone contemplating such an installation. The transfer switches (there are 10) are rugged clearly marked and each has its own circuit breaker. Each circuit is clearly identified by a letter A through I. Using a tape machine I added labels showing which circuit each lettered transfer switch connected. A very nice feature is the power meter for each leg of the 240 circuit. If you have an imbalance you will see it and be able to turn switches off to see the effect. In the end, if you didn't get the balance correct the first time, you can drop circuits to keep running and then decide how to move circuits later. The wires were all clearly marked and were stranded copper so they were easy to route. As I wired each circuit the following procedure was followed: 1: Main power off. 2: Selected circuit off. 3: Red wire to circuit breaker. 4: Black or Red hot wire from breaker connects to the black wire from the transfer circuit with a wire nut. 5: Main power on. 6: Checked that power was still off at selected circuits in the house. Lots of running around .... 7: Selected breaker to on. 8: Checked that power was returned to the selected circuits in the house. 9: Repeat steps for remaining circuits. I could have simply wired all the circuits once the main power was removed but by doing it this way I double checked my initial mapping of the house. In my case everything was perfect. If I had made a mistake in my map it would have been more difficult to fix the problem later. After grounding the generator I connected the umbilitcal to the 110/240 connection on the side of the house and to the generator. I started the generator and let it run for 5 minutes to get warmed up. Inside the house I started a process where I transfered a cirucit, observed the power meter, and checked that I had power in the house. Everything worked perfectly and neither power meter on the tansfer box was showing high use. Waited for the furnace to kick on and still not too much power use. On the same leg of the 240 volt circuit I operated the garage door and did not overload the side. Now I knew both of these cirucits could operate simultaneously. I repeated several scenarios using the Televisions, computers, microware, and even the coffee pot. Everything worked fine. I knew that I could not power up everything or I would overload the generator and likely kick the main breaker. We don't operate the coffe pot at the same time we are using the microware, for example. We don't leave lights on in areas of the house we are not using. We do have several low power night lights in the house. All in all, a great system that works very well providing you have properly balanced the load and not tried to power up too may things that require a lot of power. Be especially careful of those things that require a higher peak power at startup. These are usually things like a furnace with a motor that needs some grunt power in the beginning but less once it is running. These can be pretty high, 2KW or so, and if they start at the same time they will trip the generators breaker. Be conservative and you will weather a storm without commercial power with ease. This box comes in several sizes and you should get one that matches the capabilities of your generator. By the way, I did the work myself but had over-the-shoulder help from a friend that is a licensed electrician. My signature says Lemon Twist in Manheim Germany.... I came back from Germany in March so all of this was done in the USA.
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Reviewed in the United States on November 28, 2010 by Lemon Twist
Style: Transfer Switch Kit
Very nice, high quality unit, though a bit expensive. Solidly built, works well, relatively easy "fool-proof" installation. USA manufacture. Really nice that it supports multiple 15A and 20A, 240V circuits. Would definitely buy again. Installation is very straightforward, and the Reliance video is extremely helpful (as are some other YouTube videos...but be selective there are some really poor ones out there). I'll offer a few recommendations intended to supplement the Reliance video: 1) Spend some quality time planning the circuits you want to connect, confirming the circuit ratings (a 15 amp transfer switch circuit can be used on a 15 or 20 amp branch, but a 20A transfer connection cannot be used on a 15A branch) and balancing the load as Reliance recommends. 2) Do a "trial run" before you start by turning off all house circuits except those you plan to be generator-powered, to see that they provide the coverage you want. You don't want to discover the need for a change after you have cut the wires, or in the middle of a real outage. 3) VERY clearly mark the letters of the transfer switch circuit connections on the breakers you plan to connect...will make installation much easier/more accurate after the main panel cover is removed during installation. 4) The armored cable allows only limited movement, so if you are mounting to a concrete wall, I recommend that that you first anchor a piece of plywood to the wall and then mount the transfer switch to the plywood. so that you can freely/easily position it with wood mounting screws. 5) After mounting the switch and threading the wires into the main panel, divide the wires into 3 bundles, each bound by a twist tie. The bundles are: 1) neutral and ground, 2) circuits to be connected to the left main branch, 3) circuits to be connected to the right main branch. Sort and orient the wires as you do this to avoid a tangle where the.armored cable enters the main load center. This is particularly important if you have a relatively small main load center. 6) The letter markings on the individual wires are NOT as bold/clear an you might hope - triple check that you have the right wires, as you connect them. (separating them into bundles per the prior step provided your first check). In my unit the "B", "E", and "F" wires were quite difficult to distinguish and I discovered a mismatch in the bundles (but before cutting). 7) Confirm your installation after wiring and before connecting your generator by individually switching each breaker you have connected in the main load center between "off" and "on", with the transfer switch set to "line" and then change the transfer switch from "line" to "off" with the main breaker "on" to confirm that each controls the same correct circuit per your installation plan. Good Luck!
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Reviewed in the United States on November 25, 2013 by CarGuy08
Style: Transfer Switch Kit
I consider this product to be excellent. The transfer switch and all of the supporting peripherals are top of the line. I would however, provide the following caution. I would advise that anyone who is not an experienced electrician, watch the available video on how to connect your transfer switch to your existing circuit breaker panel. Once this is done understand that the video shows an ideal situation that demonstrates the installation procedure. Your situation will probably be different in some way. In my case here is what I encountered: 1) The circuit breaker panel in the video is very large with a lot of room to add extra wires. My circuit breaker panel (100 Amp) is small and fully populated with breakers. As a matter of fact my panel had three ½ sized breakers where to circuits are controlled from what is normally designed for a single size 120 volt breaker. This added to the population of wires in the panel and made the wiring tight to start with. When wiring the 22 additional wires used by the transfer switch into the breaker panel the space was very limited. I had to be very careful to choose the proper wire routing to make everything fit properly. Doing so made the final product work as advertized. 2) The ½ size breakers provided and additional challenge. Two wires come into this style breaker. One wire in front of another one. Even if I had taken the front wire off, I couldn't get at the back wire because of the interference of other breaker wiring. This necessitated popping the breaker out of the panel to accomplish the wiring. Once I did this, all went well. 3) Problem number three: In addition to the circuit breaker panel being large in the demonstration video, it is also a panel that hangs on the outside of a wall. My home is a raised ranch and doesn't have a basement. Because of this, the circuit breaker panel is located in the laundry room and is recessed into the wall. This meant that there was no convenient way to get at a knock out to install the cabling that comes from the transfer switch to the breaker panel. Luckily, there was one and only one knock out on the back of the circuit breaker panel. Even luckier was that the back of the panel faced a garage wall. To find that knock out from the garage side of the breaker panel was a challenge. I took detailed measurement in my laundry room and then calculated what I thought was the location of the knock out behind the wallboard in the garage. I drew a two inch circle to cut out on the wallboard and was delighted when I could see half of the knock out showing. Enlarging the cut out by an inch gave me the access I needed. I did a couple of things to ensure my safety. Because my circuit breaker panel does not have a main breaker switch on the panel, but rather it is located outside the house on the same panel that contains the meter that monitors my electric usage, I turned that breaker of and put a small lock on the cover to the switch. This ensured that no one would turn on the breaker while I was wiring the transfer switch into the breaker panel. I also used an electrical sniffer ($15.00 at Home Depot) to verify that all power was off inside the breaker panel. SAFETY FIRST Another thing I did was to pare up the individual wires before I started wiring - black A with red A, black B with red B etc. I did this by using small tie wraps. What this did for me was to ensure that when I went to wire a circuit, let's say H, I would cut the tie wrap from red and black H wires. At this point, the only two wires that weren't tie wrapped were red H and black H. This meant that I wouldn't accidentally wire the red H wire into a beaker and a black I wire to the wire removed from the breaker. After completing all of the circuit breaker wiring, I turned on the main breaker and one at a time moved the individual transfer switches to the LINE position. This verified that each circuit was working properly and was assigned to the correct switch. The only other thing needed to complete the installation was to wire the remote power input box to the transfer switch. This was strait forward with no problems. The only thing to watch for here to make sure that the meter pick-up coils remain on the black and red wires as they are when the box is shipped. Also, when joining the input power wires to the transfer switch wires using wire nuts, keep that wiring to the right side of the box so as to leave space for the meters when putting the transfer switch cove back in place. All in all, it was a fun task and the finished product worked very well. I was even happy when I shut off all power to the house, fired up the generator, and powered the house from the emergency generator. From the time I took the generator out of the garage, started it up and connected the generator cable to the remote input box and started supplying power to all of the circuits I selected to wire up, it was about 3 ½ minutes. I could even watch the meters and see when loads (such as the refrigerator or freezer compressors) were coming on and off. Watch the videos, do your homework, and have a plan in place before you order this product. If you do this, you'll be quite satisfied with the end result. Be advised that the one hour estimate to complete the wiring of the transfer switch to the circuit breaker panel as shown in the videos turned into 3 1/2 hours because of the problems described above. This is a very good product. I highly recommend it.
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Reviewed in the United States on August 7, 2011 by Rony
Style: Transfer Switch Kit
I got this kit with a 7500 watt genny and cover at a great price on Amazon....JUST before Irene. So we were living large. To summarize, excellent product but you're limited by the length of wires/cable and make sure you leave enough room to fit the 240v wires back into the transfer switch. I will freely admit that I am at times stupidly fearless but it's hard to get into serious trouble with the install unless you don't shut off the main circuit breaker. I first read as many reviews here as I could and just followed the instructions (rare for me, I must admit). The switch is extremely well made and comes with very heavy duty internal wiring for the 240v feed from the genny. The ONLY reason I didn't rate this five stars is the following: The first problem was identified by others here....the armored cable connector between the transfer switch and the main panel is TOO SHORT. Geez, guys add another foot of cable and charge $10 more so that there's SOME flexibility for installation. This caused me to spend a LOT of time re-plumbing h/c water lines. Your results will vary but it was a huge PITA for me b/c there is absolutely no flexibility. The second problem relates to the heavy duty, high quality 240v wires you have to secure with wire nuts in a spot at the bottom of the transfer switch. There is no room in there to stash the wires after wire-nutting them IF you use the center bottom punch out. If you use the right-hand side, you should have enuf space to the left to moosh the wires in without loosening the wire nuts. It's difficult to explain, in no way detracts from the performance of the switch and once you get it out of the box, you'll see what I mean. For the time being, I have left the wires out in the open (they are 'way off to the side, wire-nutted and wrapped in electrical tape and with no easy access to the switch) and the only way I can figure out how to fix the problem is to solder the wires together and SLOWLY push them into the switch and gently screw the cover plate into place. The wires are short (actually a benefit here) so it will be a double PITA to do the soldering. If you dry bench this setup with this information, you'll easily figure out a better way of wiring it up. My problem is I was fixing it on the fly and in a particularly cranky mood b/c I really shouldn't have had to redo all that plumbing. Great product, though. Almost forgot, the meters that show draw are very handy to see what's going on.
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Reviewed in the United States on September 26, 2011 by Kid_Again
Style: Transfer Switch Kit
Almost every transfer switch I read about said to call an electrician to install. I was determined to do it myself and to just call my neighbor the electrician if any unusual issues should show up. The step-by-step video provided was the best. And the printed directions were just about as good. I already "thought" I knew how to do it and after reading the provided paperwork and watching the video, I was convinced I was right and that I was going to be just fine doing it myself. I think the instructions said it would take about an hour to do the actual wiring from the transfer switch to the breaker box. Well, they don't know me. I started a day early installing the boxes and running the wire from the outside outlet where the generator plugs in, to the transfer switch next to the homes breaker box. Using my own PVC and #6 ga. wire to get power from the generator to the transfer switch was a cinch to do. The next day I installed the provided wiring from the Reliance Transfer switch to my breaker box, running each lettered wire to a chosen breaker. (Be sure to label the breakers using masking tape, because once you remove the outsides of the breaker box you won't know what breaker goes to what circuit) It took about 2-hours but then I spent some of that time squeezing myself between the dryer and the relay box, on my knees. So I can't blame Reliance for the fact I am not that fast at attaching wires from that awkward position. After completing my wiring, I re-checked my wiring and threw the homes main breaker. Everything worked like it was supposed to. I then one at a time, flipped each transfer switch from "off", to "Line", and then to "Generator". All worked exactly as expected. I am confident that almost anyone in my family can plug the generator into the outside outlet and start the generator, walk inside and flip each switch over to "Gen" and will have light, power to a TV, power to the refrigerator and microwave, security alarm, and power for the gas furnace. Plus the power company will be safe to work on downed wires. This Transfer switch from Reliance Controls had everything I would need except for the wire and conduit required for running power from the supplied outside outlet, to the new transfer switch. The wiring provided from this transfer switch to my breaker box seemed of high quality and the metal conduit's 3/4 metal connector was a perfect fit to the the bottom of my homes breaker box. I found the price at Amazon.com to be the best available for this kit. All the big named lumber centers around here wanted at least $20 and up for the exact same kit. Since Amazon.com included free fast shipping, it was all bonus. I ordered it on Monday and it was delivered to my house by Thursday. Than I had it fully installed by Sunday. Everything went much easier and faster than my usual projects.
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Reviewed in the United States on August 24, 2013 by TundraMac
Style: Transfer Switch Kit
I purchased this switch, as so many have before me, to address future power outages with my new 7KW generator. It's frightening how many out there are going the dangerous route by back-feeding through outlets in the home. There are too many safety variables to list, not the least of which is forgetting to turn off the main breaker when the generator is running. The Reliance Control switch is definitely the way to go. Doing a complete inventory of what's attached to each circuit breaker, in the main panel, is the first and foremost chore to take on. In my case, that took several hours and a lot of notes. With a detailed list, from appliances to wall outlets, the next step was to estimate the running and starting wattage. For those circuits where I could get my "amp probe" safely clamped around a circuit in the panel, I was able to read the actual running load in amps and converted it to watts from there. Why did I go to those lengths? For starters, I have ceiling heater/fan/light units in the bathrooms and only a vague idea of what they draw. I then balanced the load on paper so that the left and right transfer switches would carry approximately the same load. I read some negatives about the flexible conduit being too short, but in my case it was a bit too long. That worked just fine as I was able to easily remove and cut it to size in a matter of minutes. My breaker panel is behind an access door in a finished basement and leaving the conduit at its original length would have placed the transfer switch behind a wall stud. No big deal - made the hole a little wider, extended the plywood backing behind the breaker panel, and made a new door that matched the wall. That was the hardest part of the entire installation! The wire that you're going to run, from the transfer switch to the external generator outlet, can be a beast to work with (10-4 conductor). Uncoil it somewhat first so that it's easier to navigate along joists and walls, whatever route you're taking to get to the outside. And leave enough tail sticking out of the outlet box to make your connections. You'll need to artfully bend the conductor back into the box to get the cover to screw down. But, take your time - no big deal again. One thing you might consider is having some form of alarm device on a wall outlet that's not being controlled by the generator when it's running. That way, albeit it may be 2 in the morning, you can shut down the generator and restore the transfer switch to normal line function when utility power comes back. At $4 something a gallon for gas, that's the way I went. My generator came with a remote starter, similar to the way you start a car. Should make it quite handy in the dead of winter - I'll let you know. A final note on safety: A 20 amp breaker, in the transfer panel, is meant for a 20 amp circuit in the main panel - not a 15 amp circuit. You can overprotect, but never under protect the circuits in the house. Read and re-read the safety notations in the instruction manual that comes with the transfer switch. It's really just common sense, so don't be tempted to do otherwise. Would I recommend the Reliance Control transfer switch? Absolutely and that also goes for the great folks at Reliance when I called with a question. They actually answer the phone with a real person. What a concept :) Update: February 28, 2013, Since the intial review, we've had several opportunities to operate the transfer switch, especially during Hurricane Sandy. I can't say enough about the ease of transferring the load from the utility company to the generator and back again, once commercial power was restored. A rock-solid product that continues to exceed my expectations.
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Reviewed in the United States on December 7, 2011 by John F. Wittmann
Style: Transfer Switch Kit
05/02/2013: This transfer device is meant to be used with an external 240 Volt generator to link the generator to 10 circuits of your choosing in your main panel. I really liked the device. It is simple. A metal box with 10 switches. The box has an armored cable with the 20 wires prewired to the switches that come out of the armored cable. You knock out one of the holes on the bottom of your main panel and insert the 20 wires and anchor the cable with the lock nut. You then choose the 10 circuits you want to provide power to when you are using the generator. Hopefully you have a complete map of your household lights, receptacles and appliances verses circuit breakers before you start this project. Even if you employ a professional to do the installation they will expect you to provide this data. You pick the two wires associated with a given switch from the bundle now in the main panel. You remove the wire from the main panel circuit breaker. You attach it to the appropriate switch box load wire with a wire nut. The other wire of the pair goes to the circuit breaker. You repeat this process 10 times. The input power from the generator comes through the 3 wire cable to the connector/receptacle on the side of your house. Inside the house this cable connect to the Transfer Switch box. For the connecting power wire between the exterior receptacle and the Transfer Switch box I used 8 gauge 3 wire (not supplied). It was a long run to the box from the outside receptacle. Normally, with the box switch in the LINE position power comes from the main breaker through the panel breaker into the box and back into the main panel to the LOAD wire. With the box switch in the GEN position the Circuit breaker wire from the main panel is OPEN and the LOAD wire from that switch is now connected to the Generator Power bar inside the box. This means if LIPA turns the power back on this century, these 10 circuits are still on the generator with no interference. When you are finished with the generator, you switch the box switches back to the LINE position. I looked at the instructions and found that you can use a 15 Amp breaker on the box to supply power to a 20 Amp breaker in your main panel. The wire gauge in the box is rated for 20 Amps. If you are in the Generator mode, that line will be fused at 15 Amps. This is probably because the power bus in the box has total power limitations in the generator mode of operation. One caution is that the box manufacturer requests you provide the generator a balanced load. This means try to make the current drawn from the left side of the box roughly equal to the load on the right side. This is to keep the generator load balanced. If you put a refrigerator on the left side, then put the freezer on the right side and so on... The kit gives you a 10 foot 240 volt cable to reach from the outside receptacle to your generator, so plan the placement of your receptacle accordingly. It also provides an adapter for the 10 foot cable for an alternate generator plug configuration. My generator matched the cable. The box can only distribute power to circuits based on the ability of your generator to supply the power to the Transfer Switch (Box). I actually ordered this box for my son's home which was recently rebuilt. I put mine in just before Hurricane Sandy hit in 2012. I never even got to test it. It worked fine. My son, when he rebuilt his house, put a subpanel on the second floor to facilitate its wiring. One recommendation in this situation is to run at least one line from the first floor up to the second floor hallway receptacle. You won't need to run extension cords up the stairs to the second floor in a power outage. This upstairs subpanel is not accessible as a power option for a basement mounting of the Transfer Switch box. BTW: You can buy a steel 5 gallon gas can at Lowes for fuel storage that impressed me. It cost $42. Rich Bellmore, NY
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Reviewed in the United States on May 5, 2013 by Richard Kugler