Ender 3 V2 X Axis Linear Rail Guide for Sprite Extruder Pro Kit of Creality Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer
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Availability:
19 left in stock
Arrives
Friday, Jul 18
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Style: [X1 Sprite]Ender-3/V2/Pro
Features
- Ender 3 X-axis Linear Rail Guide Kit for Sprite Extruder Pro KitIt is special designed for the sprite extruder Pro kit of Ender-3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2 3d printer.
- High Precision PrintingThe linear guide rail offers high rigidity and stability, ensuring superior motion precision, reduced vibrations, and enhanced printing quality.
- High Speed PrintingThe rail guide ensures smooth and low-friction motion, reducing energy loss and mechanical wear, enabling faster 3D printing.
- High Qaulity Linear Bearingthe sliding ball is made of high quality steel, wear resistant, low noise, smoother and efficient operation.
- Stylish High-End LookStunning peacock blue color makes your printer stand out with a unique, high-end, and classy appearance.
Brand: ENOMAKER
Material: Metal
Color: Blue
Item Weight: 12.8 ounces
Compatible Devices: Ender 3 V2 3D Printer X axis
Package Dimensions : 15.35 x 3.27 x 2.68 inches; 12.8 ounces
Item model number : ENO-Ender3-Sprite-Rail-X
Date First Available : September 5, 2023
Manufacturer : ENOMAKER
Country of Origin : China
Best Sellers Rank: #189,838 in Industrial & Scientific (See Top 100 in Industrial & Scientific) #3,340 in 3D Printer Accessories
#3,340 in 3D Printer Accessories:
Customer Reviews: 3.8 3.8 out of 5 stars 206 ratings
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If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is:
Friday, Jul 18
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To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
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Top Amazon Reviews
I wore out the original POM wheels on my Ender 3. I've been doing a lot of upgrades and changes on it. When I realized that I couldn't tighten it, I had to make some decisions. I could replace the wheels, and then replace them again in 8 months. Or I could upgrade to the linear rail. Obviously, I went with the linear rail. Stripping down the stock carriage was probably the hardest part. The instructions aren't bad, but it could do with a few more lines. The big one is, it didn't say which side of the angle bracket goes up. Try aligning the rail to it. The rail only aligns with the holes on one side, and that is up. Also, the side with threaded holes is for the rail, and that still goes up. If you try to do it wrong, you'll find the screws are threading in where they shouldn't, or you can't screw the rail in. There has been a product upgrade, that isn't reflected in the item photos. The part of the carriage that holds the extruder stepper has options. There is a bracket for the stock extruder to be in the stock position. That's what I'm using. I printed a bracket to handle the offset for my dual extruder. The second looks just like the stock bracket, except it is shifted over to the left a bit. According to the instructions, that's for the BMG extruder. And the flat plate is for the Titan extruder. You can also opt to just leave it off, if you are using the stock extruder and bowden tube. This is actually *GREAT* for me. As you can see, I've been printing parts, to move things around. I will likely design and print some replacement top brackets, to move the extruder for other hotends I'm testing, so things can stay lined up nicely. I already had that grey bracket, for the stock carriage. If you're using one of the thicker dual gear extruders, that bolts onto the stock stepper, you'll need to add a spacer behind the hotend, to offset it by 2mm or so. There are a world of options here. Hopefully you have a spare printer to make parts, or you'll have to disassemble and reassemble your machine repeatedly to get them all done. :) On the lower half of the carriage, all of the stock holes are present and in the stock locations. It has one extra threaded hole on the left side, possibly for the pro or v2. It doesn't have the bolt heads that are present on the stock carriage, but nothing should require them, you'll just have some gaps in your hardware. So moving. It's perfect. Without the belt on, it just glides left and right. There is absolutely no off-axis motion. Exactly what you want. Once the belt is on, the motor is the biggest restriction, which is again exactly what you want. Getting my belt on was rough. I had to remove the idler pully from the right side, hook up the belt, and then squeeze the pully into place and reattach it. You might be able to do it with loosening the X stepper too, but that seemed like unnecessary effort. Some comments said they had to make a new belt, but it isn't necessary. I have replacement belt material, I just didn't use it. When you're reassembling the rest, make sure your wires go up, on the left side of the stepper. Secure them as shown, and they won't get pinched in the frame. In my picture, I have custom brackets, in yellow and grey. The yellow one is to handle the larger blowers for hotend cooling, and part cooling. The grey bracket on the hotend is to compensate for the difference in height from the screw holes to the top. And the grey bracket the BLTouch is on, is necessary to lower the BLTouch to the right position for the bottom end of the hotend. Those will all be on Thingiverse eventually, but aren't yet until I've tested them more.
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Reviewed in the United States on February 17, 2023 by JWSmythe JWSmythe
First off the instructions absolutely suck. First step, loosen belt and remove old extruder vwheel bracket, its easier if you just remove bottom vwheel. The bracket installs on the back of the rail. You remove the 2 original screws, install new linear rail bracket and lightly thread in the original screws, it is important that you do not tighten these screws. Next install the shorter screws on the bracket, tighten these all the way. Now evenly tighten outer original screws, it is important to alternate sides. Don't over tighten, just snug them down. Next install the top linear rail. Do not let the bearing mount slip off, keeping the rubber stoppers on will help prevent this mistake. Now mount the extruder bracket, you can do the belt ends while it's still loose. Snug down mount bracket, snug belt, check for any resistance, remove rubber stoppers. You Now have a great linear rail. Go buy the y axis rail next! The y axis upgrade is just as bad with the instructions. Heres the rundown. Loosen belt. Remove bed. Remove belt tensioner cap, theres 2 screws. Unclip belt ends. With tensioner cap removed the bed should slide right off. Remove the 6 hex screws mounted to base. Unplug limit switch and stepper. Remove 2 screws holding stepper bracket while stock rail is free. Remove belt, you no longer need old rail. Grab new rail, feed belt through it, keep in mind the direction on teeth. Push a looop of the belt into stepper bracket and put belt over gear. Mount stepper. Now mount the new rail bracket with 6 original hex screws, leave them loose until all are threaded, go ahead and snug all down. Mount linear rail, be careful with bearing mount, keep rubber stoppers in until the end. Now remove all vwheels from the old bed bracket. The new bracket mounts to bearing mount, tighten it down. Now match up original plate, there are some plastic sleeves that go into the eccentric holes on one side. These will have a lock washer plus washer, snug these all down. Put tensioner mount in. Get belt ends in, make sure belt direction is right. Tighten belt and check that rail is smooth in movement, remove rubber stoppers. Next throw bed back on, z probe calibrate and auto level, youre good to go. My machine is the s1 pro.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 23, 2023 by salmmon salmmon