Dorman 926-988 Short Bed Crossmember Kit Compatible with Select Ford Models (OE FIX)
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This item is eligible for return within 30 days of receipt
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Availability:
Only 9 left in stock, order soon!
Arrives
Saturday, Jun 7
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Features
- Cost-effective repair - this short bed crossmember kit allows direct replacement of floor supports on certain Ford Super Duty trucks
- Complete kit - includes 4 rails, 1 bed mounting hardware kit, 2 body bolts and 2 clip nuts
- Corrosion resistant - coated with weldable primer for extra protection against future rust and corrosion
- Trustworthy quality - designed in United States and back by team of quality control specialists
- Ensure fit - to make sure this part fits your exact vehicle, input your make, model and trim level into the garage tool
Description
When Ford Super Duty floor supports rust away, you're usually stuck replacing the entire bed. This Dorman OE FIX truck bed floor support kit allows direct replacement of only the damaged floor supports for a cost-effective repair. Vehicle model years this part fits (be sure to check your vehicle trim using the Amazon garage) - [Ford F-250 Super Duty: 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017] - [Ford F-350 Super Duty: 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017]
Manufacturer: Dorman Products
Brand: Dorman
Item Weight: 50.1 pounds
Product Dimensions: 44.5 x 15 x 6.5 inches
Country of Origin: India
Item model number: 926-988
Exterior: Ready To Paint If Needed
Manufacturer Part Number: 926-988
OEM Part Number: BC3Z9911215B; F81Z9911215BA
Hollander Number: 155-01165F, 155-1165F
Date First Available: December 20, 2018
Frequently asked questions
If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is:
Saturday, Jun 7
Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
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Top Amazon Reviews
I'm sure this product is fantastic for the listed F250... but I don't have one of those and the replacement rails that are available for F150s look like cheap thin junk. I'd bet if you're looking at this review, you're in the same boat as I was. These came with the hardware, which seems like quality stuff... most of mine was wrecked upon disassembly... and the gauge of the metal was heavier than the stock F150 rails. I'm fine with that! I only needed to replace the middle 3 rails... and this kit gave me enough material to do that. I also tried to make it look as professional as possible. That is where this became a project. None of the rails fit. The good news is that the rail that I needed to run bolts through (on the F150, the front rail and 2 rear rails have the bolts run through them) had those in the correction position. So, that was my starting point. The F150 also has a -\______/- looking rail... so I modded the one rail to mirror that shape. The other pieces I cut and welded until they were really close to the shape of the rails that I was replacing. Heights and lengths were different and had to be addressed, accordingly. There were also some holes that needed to be drilled to complete the reassembly of the truck. I cleaned up all of the rust of the bed (including the wheel wells and exterior that likes to rust out due to that rubbery stuff they stick in between the seams) and I used sheet metal screws to secure the new rails to the bed so I could outline their position with soapstone and drill all of the holes for the plug welds... then went back and cleaned them all up with an angle grinder and die grinder. I gave everything a por 15 bath, inside and out... and then a lanolin bath on top of that. I started out this job thinking that it was going to be swapping some rails and cleaning up the frame of the truck... by the time I was done, I had removed a full 5 gallon bucket of rust from the entirety of the truck... floor boards/structure where the front cab mounts, frame rails were just obliterated from the inside out especially by the fuel tank... rocker panels looked good until you poked them with a screwdriver... the bumper was swiss cheese under the plastic... and then these rails. About 2 months later my bed and frame are solid, again. The ride difference was immediately noticeable. So, these parts can work for an 04-08 F150... but know what you're getting into.
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Reviewed in the United States on June 11, 2023 by widget widget
These are quality rails. I was worried the gauge would be thinner than OEM, but I will say these are HEAVY, unlike some other repair panels. The hardest part is install, as you may expect these are not quick to install. However, if you're even considering replacing your bedrails I have to assume you are fairly experienced in this type of repair and have the space the work and the tool necessary. Install: Unless you live in Arizona (which if you do, I highly doubt you're replacing these) you will most likely not be able to remove the bolts holding the bed in place. If you want to try, they take a TP45 torx socket, NOT a T50. One way to try is to heat the clip nut with a torch and hit it with an impact. If they dont back out easily, do not keep hitting it because you will snap your torx bit. My advice is try this technique on the bolt closest to the bumper first because that clip nut is easy to access. If this one comes right out, try the rest. Chances are it wont. In that case, save yourself the headache, cross cut the head of each bolt with a grinder and then use an air chisel to break the cut head off. Remove the taillights and pull down the wiring, remove the 3 bolts for the fuel filler neck, and lift the bed off. I find it easiest to lift the bed by placing a chain diagonally hooking to the bed hooks, hanging a come-along from the ceiling of your garage and just ratcheting it up and off. After removal of the bed, you do anything and everything to get the rails off. Have a spot weld cutter handy, but if they're anything like mine (which they probably are if you are replacing them), then you probably wont be able to even make out most of the spot welds because of rust. What I did in this case was take a cutoff wheel and a plasma cutter and cut the remaining tops off the rails, leaving the flanges on the bed. I then carefully cut between each spot weld so the flange falls off in large chunks leaving behind only the spot weld with a chunk of metal attached to it. Then I switch to a proper electric grinder and grind that piece of metal still hanging on off. From there, neutralize the grind as much rust away as you can, then sandblast it and/or use a phosphoric acid based solution to convert the rust to iron phosphate to neutralize it. Then spray some etching primer on and weld the new ones in place using your favorite method (Stitch welding, plug welding, etc). Keep in mind this is NOT a quick install. And depending on what you value your labor at it may be more cost effective to just buy a rust free replacement bed off craiglist. Those go for ~$2,500 in my area, so I figured roughly $500 in material and several days of elbow grease was worth it to save a decent chunk of money. But like I said, depending on what you value your labor at, spending a week after work and a weekend properly fixing your bed may not be cost effective. This repair time becomes longer if you're also having to patch some side panel rust and repainting the bed like I am. I am fixing all my rust before it becomes a huge issue and irreparable, and I don't mind a little elbow grease. All in all, fixing all of my rust and repainting the bed and cab will be ~$1,500. Given that is $1,000 less than just buying a rust free bed, it makes sense to me. If you are having a shop do this, labor alone to replace the rails will far surpass buying a rust free used bed.
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Reviewed in the United States on August 13, 2020 by Katie Dzedzie
*** WARNING: BEFORE WELDING SOMETHING ON YOUR VEHICLE, DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE CABLE(S) FROM THE VEHICLE BATTERY(OR BOTH IF THERE ARE TWO) BEFORE WELDING.*** I pulled the bed off, flipped it over and cut out the old cross members and welded these in. I only needed the three closest replacement cross members to the cab. I didn't need the one closest to the tailgate. This kit comes with the eight bolts that hold the bed down and the clip nuts that clip onto the frame for those bolts. There are also bolts and clip nuts for the four fender support rods. I have to say this is a pretty good buy. If your replacing these cross members, then the bolt holes in the bed are possibly rusted out too. I didn't know it until I peeled the Line-X spray-in bed liner off the floor that was installed 16 years ago. The two middle cross members bolt holes had big rust holes where the bolts go through the bed floor. I bought two Dorman corragated bed sheet sections also sold on Amazon to cover the holes in those spots and welded those in too. A tip to take the old 8 bed bolts out, buy 5/8 inch extended nuts for threaded rod (over near the threaded rod / metal section). Weld the 5/8" nuts on the top of the bolt heads and use a big breaker bar to twist them off with a deep socket. You'll just break torque bits. I got 7 of the 8 bed bolts intact, but twisted one bolt until it broke in half. The bottom half of the bolt was easy to take out as they use clip nuts on the frame. If you're in the south and have access to a used rust free bed, that would be ideal if you can afford it. This cross member kit is another option and a bit cheaper.
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Reviewed in the United States on February 21, 2022 by Dimwit
Just purchased these they fit perfectly and are good quality the only thing I noticed was there were no drain holes to let the water and wait out so I drilled three 1/4” holes in the bottom of each one
Reviewed in the United States on February 15, 2023 by Tug