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Wagner Spraytech

Wagner Spraytech 0518080 Control Spray Max HVLP Paint or Stain Sprayer, Complete Adjustability for Decks, Cabinets, Furniture and Woodworking, Extra Container included, Yellow/Black

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Availability: In Stock.
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Arrives Wednesday, May 22
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Size: Control Spray Max


Features

  • HVLP PAINT SPRAYER: The Control Spray Max paint sprayer uses high volume, low pressure technology to atomize materials into fine particles and provide a smooth finish on door trim, decks, furniture, more
  • USE WITH A WIDE VARIETY OF MATERIALS: Powerful two-stage turbine makes it easy to paint walls and surfaces with thinned latex paints and thinner materials like stains and poly
  • ADJUSTABLE SETTINGS: Customize your paint flow by using the pressure control dial and material flow adjuster to receive the perfect finish every time. Turn the air cap to spray round, horizontal, or vertical
  • GREAT DESIGN: The stationary base is connected to the spray gun with a 20 ft. hose to easily reach your painting project and reduce hand fatigue. Also includes a 1 12 qt. cup and professional grade metal 1 qt. cup

Description

The Control Spray Max provides a smooth, consistent finish in less time than traditional painting methods. The controls give you the ability to adjust based on the project you’re working on and the type of material being used, which are features that a spray can or brush can’t offer! The spray patterns range from 1/2" to 12" wide depending on the settings, which allow for optimum control and precision for fine finish work. HVLP technology uses a high volume of air at low pressure to atomize materials into fine particles. This results in a professional finish, with virtually no overspray. Package includes a Control Max sprayer, 1 qt. metal cup, 1.5 qt. plastic cup, 20 ft. hose, viscosity cup and user manual. From the Manufacturer The Control Spray Max sprays materials in patterns from 1/2" to 12" wide with optimum control and precision making it superior to brushes and spray cans for fine finish work. HVLP technology uses a high volume of air at low pressure to atomize materials into fine particles. This results in a professional finish, with virtually no overspray.

Brand: Wagner Spraytech


Tank Volume: 1.5 Quarts


Color: Yellow/Black


Recommended Uses For Product: 20 ft. hose, Use with a variety of materials, Variable aire pressure control, Adjustable flow control with 3 spray patterns, Superior nozzle See more


Material: Plastic, Metal


Brand: ‎Wagner Spraytech


Tank Volume: ‎1.5 Quarts


Color: ‎Yellow/Black


Recommended Uses For Product: ‎20 ft. hose, Use with a variety of materials, Variable aire pressure control, Adjustable flow control with 3 spray patterns, Superior nozzle


Material: ‎Plastic, Metal


Item Weight: ‎5.1 Kilograms


Product Dimensions: ‎12"W x 18.5"H


Style: ‎Adjustable,Round


Power Source: ‎AC/DC


Included Components: ‎Sprayer, Metal Cup, Plastic Cup, User Manual., Hose


Model Name: ‎Control Spray Max, Control Spray Double Duty and Control Spray


Hose Length: ‎240 Inches


Manufacturer: ‎Wagner Spraytech


Part Number: ‎Control Spray Max


Item Weight: ‎11.22 pounds


Country of Origin: ‎China


Item model number: ‎0518080


Is Discontinued By Manufacturer: ‎No


Size: ‎Control Spray Max


Pattern: ‎Painter


Shape: ‎Circular


Voltage: ‎120 Volts


Item Package Quantity: ‎1


Special Features: ‎Washable


Batteries Included?: ‎No


Batteries Required?: ‎No


Warranty Description: ‎1 Year


Date First Available: June 18, 2010


Frequently asked questions

If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is: Wednesday, May 22

Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.

To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.

View our full returns policy here.

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Top Amazon Reviews

    • Very nice sprayer, easy to use, easy to clean, but watch for over spray
Size: Control Spray Max
I have never used a paint sprayer before. I have used spray paint in the past but never had good luck with it because I always ended up with uneven results that had runs. I installed some new baseboard over carpet and wanted to paint it after it was installed. This would be an extremely difficult task using paint brushes, hence my desire to purchase a paint sprayer. Wagner makes several paint sprayers with mixed reviews, although the vast majority of people liked this sprayer including myself. I got some masking paper and used a drywall taping knife to carefully tuck the paper between the carpet and baseboard. I then got ready to spray a very thick primer which had the consistency of pancake batter. I added the equivalent of 16 ounces per gallon of distilled water (no conditioner). It was still very thick but this unit had no problems spraying it. I completed over 60 feet of 6 inch baseboard in less than 30 minutes. I had no issues with runs and it was very easy to apply the primer evenly. During the painting, the hose came off the hand unit a couple of times causing a small stream of paint to land on the ground (not the baseboard fortunately). It would be nice if the manufacturer could make the connection tighter. The one issue I did have that I was not aware of was with a particular type of over spray. I always thought over spray was when the paint overshoots the target area and paints the adjacent area. With respect to this type of over spray, there was very little of it as the over spray was less than 6 inches on either side (I used a wide spray pattern). There is a second type of over spray that occurred. There were fine paint particles that did not adhere to anything and dried in the air. When I completed the project, there was a fine film of dry paint dust throughout the room. The dust was heavy and settled quickly and did not spread to other areas of the home. The dust was easy to vacuum (I used a HEPA vacuum to avoid re-spreading it), although I had to re-wash my bed spread and pillow covers. This was totally unexpected but then again I have never used a paint sprayer before. Therefore, goggles and a dust mask are a must as well as covering all furniture and belongings that can't easily be removed. Cleanup was extremely easy. After priming, I applied a coat of paint and diluted it to the equivalent of 8 ounces of distilled water per gallon per the paint manufacturer specifications. I also strained the paint. The paint was still thick but I had no problems spraying it. The finish result was nice but not as good as the results a professional painter can get using a high power airless sprayer and oil based paint; however this machine is very inexpensive for what it can do. I also would never rent a high power airless sprayer because they are dangerous and can cause injection injuries. The latex paint had a mild spray texture to it (not like the orange peel texture described by another reviewer) which is fine for baseboards but probably not as ideal for crown molding which are much more visible. For the crown molding, I want the finish to be as smooth as glass. I will likely use the sprayer to apply the primer and the first coat of paint (as the sprayer works much faster than I can hand paint) and will possibly do a finish coat using my Purdy paint brushes and latex paint with paint conditioners added to slow the drying time to get that final smooth finish. Per the manufacturer Q&A, this machine can be used indoors with latex paint even though the sticker on the unit states it is for outdoor use only. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on March 21, 2012 by S. Simon
    • Great Sprayer for the DIYer
Size: Control Spray Max
I bought this quite awhile back (a little over a year ago), so I have used this item a lot. I now have a more expensive (10X the cost) HVLP rig, but I have found that this little Wagner gun is so MUCH more VERSATILE and EASIER to use, that I use this one more often than the expensive one. I can spray oil-based paints and primers, as well as water-based products, with hardly any effort. Cleaning up is fast and easy, too. You CAN get a 100% perfect, professional finish IF you take your time, read and re-read the manual, and you practice with it, first. Do not expect to pull it out of the box, fill it, spray with it, and have perfect results. I suggest that you gather lots of cardboard and buy a can (quart or gallon) of cheap paint (the same type as your first project requires (water- or oil-based)). Then, buy the appropriate diluent (read the paint can), the compatible additive (i.e., Penetrol for oil-based paints and Floetrol for water-based paints). While you're at the paint store (or you are on Amazon.com) pick up some medium size (pertaining to particle filtration size, not overall size) disposable paint filters. My two spray painting mantras are, "Practice does make perfect!" and "Paint additives can make ALL THE DIFFERENCE IN THE WORLD between a professional-looking paint job, and just an awful looking paint job!" That's it in a nutshell, but I've written at length about the first time I used this sprayer. If what I learned can help you get great results on your first project, it may be worth the time it takes to read: My first project was not the smartest one to choose as a first project to paint with a spray gun. It was the wainscoting and trim in my dining room. But, it came out so perfect, that even after a year, the glassy, smooth, sprayed surfaces still impresses me so much, I cannot believe I did them! But, back then, I didn't know any better, so I thought I would just start right in with the painting, buying the exact same paint and color (Sherwin Williams Alkyd) the installers had used. I lightly sanded all of the wainscoting and trim, as best I could, to scuff up the surfaces. I also used a liquid deglosser, since sanding detailed trim is thankless, tedious work. But, most of all, I spent a lot of time caulking (using PAINTABLE caulk) areas that had pulled apart from "settling," or that were not properly caulked by the installers in the first place. I let the caulk dry thoroughly. Actually, it was all the cracks and crevices in the joined edges of the woodwork caused by improper (or complete lack of) caulking, and some due to settling, that had caused the need to paint the trim and wainscotting. Next, I started in with the viscosity tests. I used paint thinner first, but then I read up on additives. So, I switched to using a combination of paint thinner and Penetrol (by Flood, purchased at Lowes). I can't recall the exact ratio of paint thinner to Penetrol I ended up using, but I think it would be safe to say about half and half. Of course, paint thinner was what my product called for as a thinning agent. Paint additives, like Floetrol and Penetrol, help produce a smooth, glassy finish. The additives can help make up for a multitude of sins! For example, if you did not properly adjust your air/paint flow, you could end up with a painted surface that has an orange peel texture (a common problem). If it's not too bad, the additives themselves can make that problem completely disappear! But, that's not too surprising, because one of their purposes is to reduce, or eliminate, brush marks! Once I had all of my paint thinner and Penetrol added in order to achieve an acceptable viscosity test, I was alarmed at how much I had diluted the paint! I had definitely diluted it beyond what the manufacturer had recommended (as stated on the can). Thankfully, I was worried enough that I decided to practice on some cardboard, rather than on the dining room walls, first, as I had planned on doing after reading all of the positive reviews here, thinking I could just spray the walls and get great results! And, although it didn't take long before I was able to get a nice, smooth coating on the cardboard, I am really thankful I did! I would have been scraping and sanding walls, for sure! I also stood the cardboard up vertically, like the surface I would be spraying (vertical surfaces are much harder to spray without getting drips and runs), so I could get a feel for how much paint I could apply before getting runs. It wasn't very much! I had to keep the gun moving relatively quickly. But, by then, I had to send my husband back to Sherwin-Williams for another can of paint, just to be sure I would have enough paint! Before getting to the viscosity tests, though, I had basically turned my dining room into a giant spray booth, but without an explosion-proof fan mounted in the window! I covered the windows, ceiling, and upper walls with plastic, masking off all of the edges. I also taped plastic over the two doorways, masking around all of the edges of EVERYTHING. I used thick plastic drop cloths on the floor, but I goofed by not taping them down as securely as I should have. So, I had to stop and do some clean-up and remedial taping when I saw that the air coming out of the nozzle was blowing up the edges of the plastic! Naturally, I used a respirator, and was covered head-to-toe in disposable painting attire. The air was thick with paint mist when I did paint. But, I expected that in the enclosed space. I put on a total of four coats, as I thought with all of the diluting, they would be thin coats. They were, but I wouldn't say that was a bad thing! I don't own a mill gauge (something I just recently learned about!), so I couldn't tell you how thick each coat was, but they were thick enough to cover bare wood without being transparent enough to see the wood grain show through, but not so thick that it would cause runs or drips. I always sprayed a small piece of cardboard, leaving it in the dining room, but near the opening, so I could easily check when the paint was dry enough to recoat, without touching the trim or walls themselves. It dried much quicker than I had anticipated, given all of the dilution. I did get a couple of runs, but I just sanded them off when the paint had dried enough to produce a powder when sanded, and not rub or rip. Of course, I sprayed these areas again. Even with the massive amount of prep work required (most of it would have still been required if I was brushing-on the paint, such as all of the caulking), the amount of time It took to spray, clean-up, dry, spray, clean-up, etc., was only a fraction of that time that would have been required for me to brush on all of the coats! The results were, as I said, spectacular. Today, the wainscoting and trim still look as fantastic as they did the day II had finished painting them. I was worried the dilution of the paint would have affected the wear or appearance of the surfaces, but it did not. So, I would never be afraid to dilute paint more than stated by the manufacturer on the can. Not being a paint professional, I do not know how they arrive at those figures, but for myself, I would always dilute the product according to what is recommended in the sprayer manual (using viscosity cup and timing the flow), and not what is stated on the can. But, I always read the can of the product I am using, because it tells me what to use in order to thin the product (the diluent). For oil-based PRIMERS, I use only the recommended diluent or solvent, and I omit the additive (Penetrol). To date, I have not used water-based PRIMERS, but I would probably only use distilled water for the diluent (unless the can stated to use another type of diluent, that isn't water). A shellac-based PRIMER would probably call for denatured alcohol as the diluent. Again, always defer to the can/manufacturer for the diluent to use, but defer to the sprayer manual for the proper dilution rate (using the viscosity cup). For water-based paints, I use a mixture of one part distilled water and one part Floetrol (50-50) to dilute the paint. I also use a medium filter for all paints and primers, and it is the last thing I do before I spray paint. Disposable filters are cheap, so I use a fresh, new filter when I fill or refill my sprayer cup. If I fill the cup three times during a project, I've used three filters. I always gather some cardboard to use to warm-up on, and, most importantly, to help me fine-tune the settings on the sprayer, so that I achieve the best finish possible. If your paint is properly diluted, and your spray is properly adjusted, I just don't think you will be ever be unhappy with the results. Thoroughly cleaning up your equipment as soon as you are finished painting is also extremely important. If you have a tiny, dried, speck of paint in the nozzle, you will not get good results. I have found those really thick pipe cleaners (oh, excuse me, I mean CHENILLE STEMS) are invaluable as an aid to cleaning out the inside of the slanted plastic tube that is inserted into the paint cup. Some other tips I've learned include spray painting early in the morning, when there is less likely to be a breeze, if I am painting something outside. Avoid spraying in direct sunlight, too. Finally, if there is a result that is not to your liking, Google it to find a solution to the problem. I have learned so much from doing this, and watching Youtube videos, too. If all else fails, call the manufacturer because there is always a small chance you could have a defective part that needs to be replaced. Dilute and practice with your cheap practice paint. If you can achieve a great finish on your cardboard (make sure the cardboard has a smooth surface to begin with, too!) using your cheap paint, you will surely be able to get an amazing finish with your higher quality paints and finishes. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on September 26, 2013 by My3Sons

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