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Liquid Rubber Concrete Foundation and Basement Sealant - Indoor & Outdoor Waterproof Coating, Easy to Apply, Black, 5 Gallon

    • Based on 1,468 reviews
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Availability: In Stock.
Fulfilled by Amazon
Arrives Monday, May 27
Order within 17 hours and 45 minutes
Available payment plans shown during checkout

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Size: 5 Gallon


Features

  • PROTECTIVE FINISH FOR - Foundations, ICF's, Basements, Shower Liners, Deck and Fence Posts, Planter Boxes, Metal, Wood, Concrete and more
  • HIGHLY FLEXIBLE - Sealant final membrane has over 900% elongation in the sealing material preventing adhesion failure causing cracks and taring. Flat/Ponding Surface: 50 sq ft/G per coat
  • EASY TO APPLY - No mixing required! Apply by brush, roller or high quality piston paint sprayer. Container can be closed and left over material used later. No pot life or working time like 2 component products
  • ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY - Liquid Rubber Foundation Sealant is water based, containing no solvents, VOC's or harmful odors. Safe for humans and pets alike, can be used indoors and outdoors with no special breathing apparatus
  • FOR A BULLETPROOF SYSTEM - Bridge joints, seams, vents, gaps, protrusions.... With Liquid Rubber Seam Tape or Liquid Rubber Geo-Textile where possible movement may occur. Scroll down for full application steps

Material: Polymer


Brand: Liquid Rubber


Color: Black


Style: Protective


Item Weight: 19.8 Kilograms


Is Discontinued By Manufacturer ‏ : ‎ No


Product Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 12 x 12 x 16 inches; 43.65 Pounds


Item model number ‏ : ‎ 20602


Date First Available ‏ : ‎ June 14, 2017


Manufacturer ‏ : ‎ Liquid Rubber USA


Best Sellers Rank: #15,854 in Tools & Home Improvement (See Top 100 in Tools & Home Improvement) #45 in Interior & Exterior House Paint


#45 in Interior & Exterior House Paint:


Customer Reviews: 4.5 4.5 out of 5 stars 1,468 ratings


Frequently asked questions

If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is: Monday, May 27

Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.

To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.

View our full returns policy here.

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Similar Products

Top Amazon Reviews

    • Foundation waterproofing.
Size: 5 Gallon
Review Image by TIBOR PUSKAS TIBOR PUSKAS
This product is great, nice thick rubbery coating. I used 2 coats on the concrete foundation . I also used it on fence posts .
Reviewed in the United States on June 10, 2023 by TIBOR PUSKAS TIBOR PUSKAS
    • Ty
Size: 5 Gallon
Ty
Reviewed in the United States on April 18, 2023 by Tung
    • This is the most reasonably priced way to waterproof your basement!
Size: 5 Gallon
Considering the cost, the actual high quality of the product and the "relative" ease of application to exterior and interior walls; I believe this to be one of the BEST products on the marketplace! I am a retired licensed civil and mechanical engineer and in my late 60's, so I know and appreciate a good quality product when I see and use one!. I can afford to have someone else do my odd jobs or even quasi-major ones like basement waterproofing. However, I'm retired with too much time on my hands and this "waterproofing" job needed to be done so, in the interests of brevity here goes. First off, apply this stuff to clean (scraped, sanded, or repatched holes in basement walls be they cinderblock or fieldstone) surfaces. In my case I had to scrape out the old lime based cement used in-between the fieldstone foundation of my community walled 120 year old, Brooklyn Brownstone, rowhouse because after so many years it just disintegrated, allowing moisture and water invasion. I plugged up the joints holes with hydraulic cement (relatively inexpensive, even on this site OR from a big box) let them dry because hydraulic cement dries so fast tyou can only use very small batches at a time. I did not say this was fast work, however it ain't rocket science either so all you need is time and patience. Though I did not need to do so, I covered my interior basement walls with Sakcrete "topping or patching" cement which is premixed and applies easily AND has a long work time to batch size ratio. I felt that the Liquid rubber foundation sealant product would have better "purchace" or attach better to the coated rock schist surface. That being said, after all surfaces were prepared it was a simple matter of applying (in my case with a whitewash brush but on flat surfaces such as a cement block wall, a roller with a medium "nap" will work fine) the material. I would recommend applying between 60 to 80 degrees F. for best, even drying times but of course humidity will be a factor. This product dries medium "tacky" so I would allow a few extra days drying time if that's within your work time frame and IF you intend to paint over the rubber material which is black. There is no reason NOT to,leave it black but I find a white or light color helps with light dissemination and seems a little more pleasant to look at. Essentially, those are the instructions on the can but if you go to their website (also on the can and on Amazon's product webpage description) you can find more info on applications/ coatings, etc.! I highly recommend this stuff, I've used many other brands in similar situations including the funny looking and sounding guy on TV in his "flexibly sealed rubber coated screen boat," and I find this material not only more effective but MUCH less expensive by far whilst being a far superior product to use. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on November 13, 2019 by Audiophile MB (Marco B.-NYC)
    • hoping since i have ordered so many 5 gal. buckets you could honor product longevity
Size: 5 Gallon
love this product works great for many things. out of 8 5 gal. buckets i have ordered my last two were not mixed correctly i believe the last one being by far the worst as i would call it not liquid rubber but liquid plastic as once dried became brittle not rubbery at all and basically was useless! i was hoping since have bought so many of these that you would be kind enough to sends me another bucket free of cost to me? Had i known i would have sent back asking for different bucket but i have not had single one do that so didn't expect an problems until i used it and then dried. Please send another bucket to replace my last bucket i would be grateful and of course i also understand that you are in no position to do so other than taking my word that i got bad bucket and I would be very grateful if you would/could replace it thank you for your time. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on September 18, 2022 by Randy
    • If you need to waterproof this is the real deal
Size: 5 Gallon
Wow. Just plain wow. I would have never thought that a product that needed to do waterproofing would be a low VOC and easy to apply product. I have used other products in the past that you need a hazmat suit to basically apply. This stuff was used in a basement to waterproof the walls and floor and it goes on like paint and has very little odor to it. Just mix it well and on it goes. I used a masonry brush but don't feel you even need that. It doesn't gum up a regular paintbrush and when you wash it off it rubberizes and wants to stick a little bit but isn't bad at all. I will definitely use this for any waterproofing projects in the future. Also, the 5 gallons goes a LONG way. I did three layers on about 200 sq ft of wall and still had half the container left over. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on January 22, 2023 by The Chez
    • A mess to work with
Size: 5 Gallon
I used the material to seal a wood project against water intrusion. I am still hopeful that it will accomplish that goal, but application was a real pain. Wear old clothes and do your level best not to get any of it on them. The rubber does not really clean well with water - soap or not. It turns to a soupy mess. I had to use a lot of water at high pressure to clean the brush, but even then it would not clean. So what I did between coats was to keep the brush in the 1 gallon container of the material that I emptied first. As the project progressed, I would remove the brush from the 1 gallon container and wrap the handle with a paper towel to keep it from sticking to my gloves even though they were brand new. I used a 4" brush of very high quality to apply the rubber material and brushed it a lot rather than slather it on. That is, for the first coat. I think that making sure that the material was contacting the surface and actually 'wetting' to it was key to producing a membrane. However, when I was finished with the first coat, I had used only one gallon of the material on over 150 sq ft. which is a very thin membrane. The second coating was done in the same way, however, the third, fourth and fifth coatings were much thicker. I went from 'painting' to 'slathering' because I was unable to get enough of the material onto the surface otherwise. Most of the rubber material was applied while the surface was vertical. I built the structure in three sections so that two of them could be vertical while the third laid flat as I coated their bottom surfaces. Before I tilted the front end piece into the upright position, I coated it twice with the rubber material, let it stand for about 24 hours between thin coats on the OSB sheathing board. I attached Hardi board over that surface after the rubber material had dried. This surface will be in contact with backfill when it is installed, but the edges will be accessible when the sides are to be installed so they will be coated at that time and only approximately half backfilled after the Hardi siding is installed. After the first two coats, I could tell that I was going to have to use a more 'slathering' technique to apply the material. However, I still brushed the first coat on the underside of the structure so that the contact of the rubber material to the wood material was consistent and complete. The three pieces were all standing (or laying) on the uncoated side. As careful as I was, I continued to get the material on my gloves. As I slathered it on, the material would run down the brush, or a splatter would get somewhere that I did not want it. Eventually the whole handle of the brush was covered. Once it was on there, it stuck to my gloves as well - like a tar baby. If I washed it off, it would not come off, I tried paint thinner and even acetone, but a residual remained so that the handle was tacky the next day. New clean gloves almost immediately coated with material. It was unbelievable! To overcome that issue, I wrapped a shop towel around the handle, which helped a lot because when I washed the brush out, the paper would peel off leaving a fresh surface that didn't stick to the gloves so badly. So I coated the 25 sq ft area and two thirds of the bottom area 125 sq ft, waited about 21 hours to coat the 25 sq ft area a second heavier coat and applied Hardi board to that side about 3 hours later, then tipped the piece on that side so that I could apply the first coat of rubber material to the last piece - one third of the bottom. Before I applied the Hardi board, the material's surface of the side panel was dried enough so that it did not seem to be tacky, but the Hardi board stuck to it. I applied screws only at the top to keep them in place and turned it on that side so that it was held firmly together as I coated the remainder of the bottom. As I said, I used only one gallon to coat the entire 150 sq ft plus a second heavier coat on 25 sq ft. Clearly insufficient thickness so I switched to the slathering. I coated the second, third and fourth coats on the bottom. Then I poured off one gallon to hold back for later and coated the fifth coat on all of the bottom. Each coat was applied when the material was no longer tacky to the touch - probably about three hours apart. The fourth coat was allowed to sit over the weekend so it dried about 48 hours before the fifth coat was slathered on. I waited 24 hours and decided to put a coat of latex paint on the untouched side of each of the pieces - two of them were accessible without moving the pieces and one had to be stood on edge to paint the uncoated side. I noticed when I lifted the piece to stand it on edge that the rubber material which was not tacky to the touch became sticky where I lifted on it. The material looks and feels dry, but it becomes tacky if you press on it. Now it is time to assemble the pieces into the finished assembly. The three pieces were placed on the edge of a 2x6 which is long enough to hold all three and slid together so that another 2x6 plate could be installed on each side to secure the pieces together. As I laid the center piece of three down to position it for connection of the other two pieces, I noticed that the material remained sticky even after having a couple of days to dry. The weather has been sunny with no condensation in the mornings all of this time, yet the stuff is still tacky. When I tilted the end piece down to lay on top of the connecting center piece, the shifting of the piece against the 2x6 was causing the rubber material on the bottom to bunch up and come off - the weight of the piece was also making it sticky such that when I lifted the piece, it would snap off the 2x6. I 'remedied' that by placing a piece of mylar sheet plastic between the support and the piece so that the material would not stick to the support. I coated the seams and the end plate 2x6s and assembled the pieces together with screws into the final assembled product. Then the under side of the product was coated multiple times where the pieces came together to complete the membrane. Since I had taken the gallon bucket to refill with rubber material, I had been using water in another 5 gallon pail to 'keep' the brush overnight. Each time that I took it out to use it, I used a garden hose sprayer to clean it up so that it could be used. This entailed spraying the brush for about 15 minutes until it stopped running brown out of the bristles. The handle was a sticky mess and the sides of the brush would not come clean. So I wrapped a new shop towel on it and went to work. It seemed that I could not escape the hazards of coming into proximity of the material because anything that has contact with the rubber material becomes a sticky point - a spot on your sleeve where you brushed against the can or the freshly coated area or any drips remained sticky - and if they came into contact with anything else they stick to it. When pulled away, half of the material remained on both pieces that came into contact. Once dried a little, it would not come off. Water will take it off in the first two minutes, but after that, the only thing that works is to scrape it off. Rubbing, washing, solvents are all ignored by the stain. I was able to make some headway with acetone, but even that was strange. The material will come loose, but if it then contacts anything else it sticks to it again. The only way that I could clean my hands if I got any on them was to scratch it off with my finger nails as I ran water on them. The hotter the water, the better. Be prepared to spend a long time at it - better to make sure that none gets on you. Don't even think about throwing clothes in a washing machine - you will have black marks or smears on your other clothes mysteriously appearing for months if you do. Take the soiled clothes and place them on concrete and use the spray from a garden hose to work the rubber material out of them. Be careful that you don't miss any black spots on the clothes. When you have hosed them off, wring them out and search carefully for any remaining spots - repeat the spray technique until the spots are gone. If possible, soak them in hot water before you hose them off. The material adheres to itself much better than anything else so you find little flecks of black gunk on the concrete when you are finished. Then wash the clothes in your washer. All I want from this rubber is to keep the water out of that structure that I built. It will be below grade for the first four feet and I will put drainage below the footings the structure is on so water will not pond (I hope). I expect that it will be able to hold the water out and opted to use it because it was easier than dealing with 6 mil poly sheets that could tear or get snagged. But it turned out to be just about as bad because it does not have the strength to maintain the membrane when shifted forcibly - mainly because it sticks to everything so readily and takes a very long time to dry. All in all I am not too happy with the product, though I remain hopeful that it will accomplish the task that I want from it. But it is such a mess to work with - I almost needed a hazmat suit. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on November 18, 2020 by JayDubya

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