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Availability:
In Stock.
Arrives
Thursday, Oct 22
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Features
- Replacement Parts
- Made from quality materials
- Design to fit your vehicle
- Injection Pumps & Controllers
- FPE CP3 Kits
Description
Fleece Performance Engineering is the leading manufacturer of aftermarket diesel performance products. With a reputation for innovation, quality, and service, our products push the limits of diesel performance technology.
Brand: Fleece Performance Engineering
Fit Type: Vehicle Specific Fit
Vehicle Service Type: Truck
Item dimensions L x W x H: 16 x 16 x 12 inches
Item Weight: 25 pounds
Fit Type: Vehicle Specific Fit
Compatible with Vehicle Type: Truck
Auto Part Position: Rear Lower
Outlet Connection Type: Barb
Inlet Connection Type: Hose Barb
Mounting Type: Adaptable Mount
Operation Mode: Auto Mechanical
Automotive Fit Type: Vehicle Specific Fit
OEM Equivalent Part Number: GM OEM CP4 Fuel Pump for LML Duramax
Connector Type: NPT or BSPP
Item Dimensions: 16 x 16 x 12 inches
Item Weight: 25 pounds
Outlet Connection Size: 1 inches
Inlet Connection Size: 1 inches
Body Material: Rubber
Product Style: Music
Brand Name: Fleece Performance Engineering
Manufacturer Part Number: FPE-LML-CP3-WP
Unit Count: 1 Count
Manufacturer: Fleece Performance
Number of Packs: 1
UPC: 670875717428
Number of Items: 1
Included Components: CP3 Kits
Item Type Name: Fuel Delivery
Model Number: FPE-LML-CP3-WP
Manufacturer Warranty Description: Manufacturer’s Warranty
Specification Met: 50-state compliant, Bosch
Frequently asked questions
If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is:
Thursday, Oct 22
Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
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Top Amazon Reviews
Great product! Helped get rid of the CP4 bomb!
Reviewed in the United States on August 4, 2026 by Amazon Customer
Excellent product! Everything works perfectly. Install is a little difficult. But it’s not the products fault. It’s the factory placement and other parts in the way. However a novice mechanic or DIYer can do the work. It just takes a little time and patience.
Reviewed in the United States on July 11, 2026 by Tommy C Bays Jr
The kit is very well engineered. The updated dosing line block and pump banjo fitting simplifies and makes for a cleaner install. I used both the PDF instructions from Fleece and Thoroughbred Diesel's online YouTube video. I watched the whole video first to get familiar with parts, locations and the flow of the steps. Then, kept my phone with me to review each individual step prior to doing it. There are many little mechanic tips that will help you install the kit. First, have several magnet sticks before you start disassembly. A thin bendible one is a necessity. I dropped several bolts and panic set in- magnets saved me! Use the magnet to fish bolts out in difficult spots. If you don't have a set of metric swivel sockets in 1/4" drive- buy them before you start. 10mm, 12mm, 13mm are used alot. A 19mm rail line nuts and I believe 15mm at the CP3 pump banjo bolt - crow foot line wrenches in 3/8 drive will help with obtaining access and proper torque. Use a torque wrench and the Fleece supplied torque specs!!! For clips and push pins Use a forked style clip removal tool. I Use Thoroughbred's tip of a paper towel in the socket to hold the bolts during removal and install in hard to reach spots. Take your time.. These high pressure systems are critical on cleanliness - tape off the rail openings immediately. Cover the intake at all times. Rubber glove fits the roundish intake hole nicely. Tape the head "Y" bridge openings. Every part on these LML engines are layered so you have to watch the video and think ahead so you don't forget to install a fastener in order ; for example- to hold the new low side 1/2" line's retention bolt that is under the balance line (you'll see)... I did remove the alternator, AC compressor, loosened the fan (but did not remove) and the engine bolted fan shroud for my fat hands to easily reach the inj pump bolts easier. Clean everything best you can.. time wise I'm slow and flat rate isn't my gig. A week of a few hrs here and there taking my time. But like others have said 10-15 hrs is probably accurate. Walk away for a bit if you get flustered.. At the end when it fires up you'll feel accomplished and assured you have a better pump than factory for sure.
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Reviewed in the United States on January 3, 2025 by Amber
CP4 to CP3 Pump conversion Chevy Duramax LML 2015 Good packaging, and technical support from Fleece. I would have liked the written instructions included in a little booklet. As this is for various makes of trucks, I can see how the logistics of that could be more challenging. But still that would have helped very much. I had to call tech support and a real person who was familiar with the conversion picked up the phone. Appreciated that. But still I had to do the eentire process twice, Note: The written instructions are slightly different than the videos. There is a card with a link to their web site in the pump package. The website then has a menu of options that lead you to the install video and eventually the written instructions. PRINT those out and read through before working. I missed one item and had to take the whole thing back off again. The temp sender needs to be installed on the new doser mount and the new feed and return line needs to be torqued before reinstalling the pump. There is a pump swtich wire extension that goes to the fuel pump and the pump wire connection (yellow and black) It's tight getting the new pump back in. Next time I would remove the fuel lines in the tunnel completely. I also used a drop of blue locktight on the pump shaft nut. I did not need to remove the fan. Nor the lower turbo air cooler line to the bottom of the radiator or airbox mount. The alternator and A/C pump can both fold out of the way. Also the PCV valve I left installed, removed the wire from it, but left the hose connected and just folded the black plastic turbo air inlet out of the way as well. While the turbo is exposed, check the shaft for looseness and that it spins without a dry feeling. Check the fan blades for nicks and if bent. If you need this changed, NOW is the time for it. For the EGR and casted unduction pieces, I loosely fitted all bolts before torquing them all down after it was happily aligned. Tools: get a cheap $30 battery powered electric 3/8 wrench that is 90 degrees to the handle. The second time I took it all apart I had the pump in my hands in 2.5 hours. Extensions 1/4 and 3/8 in all lengths with wobble ends. Must have 13mm, 12mm, 10mm flex head socket., and the same plus a 15mm in deep and shallow sockets. 1/4 drive, and 3/8 drive ratchet. 19, 17, 15, 13, 12, 10 mm and larger wenches to get the return fuel line and filter check. I had one inch, it didn't fit tight but was enough to get the return fuel line in the tunnel off and retorqued. I did not have the larger wench set for the filter check. Also, Magnet tool with a flex shaft so you can bend it underneath to get the bridge bolts and nuts you'll drop. Do not drop the 12mm stainless!! Whatever it takes, put shop towels underneath those in case they drop, and stick them in the socket with a piece of shop towel for removal and installation. Must do this. I'm so glad I did. Those back two 12mm EGR tube bolts with the cabin heater lines in the way, zip tie that one line back out of the way. Slightly bend your 13mm box wrench (clowed side) another 5-10 degrees (put it in the vise and hit it with a big hammer) so it will fit to get that lower pump bolt off. Also pull the two bolts off the antifreeze tube at that bolt. The tube will move just enough to make it soooo much better to get that lower pump bolt loose. I used the adjusted angled 13mm closed end wrench to loosen and torque that bolt, then the flex socket to spin it loose. It just takes time on that bolt. Finally, prime the system and get the air out once all the fuel lines are installed. This is your first leak check. Mine did leak as I forgot to torque the relief valve on the new doser mount. Don't wait till it's all together. It was not so big a deal then to take the lines out and get in there and torque it. Also, The elctrical connectos all have a form of safety that needs sliding, then a pinch on a tab to be removed. Forcing it will break the connector. The low pressure A/C line has a bend out tab rather than a push. Why they make these all different is silly. Finally, Read the full instructions that have the pictures on them with the torque values first before purchase so you know what your getting into. You need to have some mechanical ability and have a feel for nuts and bolts with some knowledge of what is what under a hood. It was't hard, just involved.
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Reviewed in the United States on March 27, 2025 by Lydia
Great price for a great upgrade! No more worrying about my CP4 quitting on me at an inopportune time! Everything you need to convert. I also liked that I had the option to bypass the poorly designed factory fuel filter, since I already have a dual filtered lift pump.
Reviewed in the United States on January 29, 2025 by Sean M
Fit perfectly
Reviewed in the United States on September 6, 2025 by James
The kit worked out well, shipping was ahead of schedule and the parts were all good quality. I did receive the newer cp3 conversión from fleece that also came with a decent installation guide. I found that fleece has a YouTube video that walks through the swap in greater detail than the installation guide. Only complaint is that the high pressure and fuel feed line could have been designed better where it could stay away from neighboring components (had to add chafe guards). Job took about 15hours being my first cp3 swap
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Reviewed in the United States on August 15, 2024 by M.collazo