Detroit Axle - Steering Rack & Pinion Kit for 2003-2006 Ford Expedition 2004 2005, Complete Power Steering Rack & Pinion Assembly, 2 Outer Tie Rod Ends Replacement
Condition: New
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Returnable until Jan 31, 2026
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Availability:
In Stock.
Arrives
Thursday, Mar 5
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Features
- Rack & Pinion Tie Rods Replacement for 2003 2004 2005 2006 Ford Expedition (2003 Built After 7/15/02)
- Kit Includes: 1x Complete Power Steering Rack & Pinion Assembly + 2x Front Outer Tie Rod Ends
- To Activate your Lifetime Warranty, you must send in your core unit. Call us when you order to get a return shipping label for your old unit
- New Oil and Lip Seals installed to ensure quality performance, Hydraulically Pressure Tested to Ensure Internal By-Pass for Both High & Low Pressure
- Lifetime Warranty
Description
Kit Includes: 1x Complete Front Power Steering Rack and Pinion Assembly - 2121 2x Front Outer Tie Rod Ends - Driver and Passenger Side - ES3695 Fitment: Replacement for 2003-2006 Ford Expedition (2003 Built After 7/15/02) Introduction:All Rack and Pinions Come with Brand New Inner Tie Rod Ends. Detroit Axle suspension components are manufactured to original equipment standards and provide a superior stopping performance. We are a leading supplier of ride control products to OE vehicle manufacturers Nationwide, that expertise translates to Detroit Axle's OE-quality Aftermarket. Suspension parts are built to exceed OEM Specification. Undergo impact, wear, and fatigue testing to help ensure quality and durability. With over 30 years of experience, we are proud that millions of customers around the world rely on Detroit Axle parts. We have two Metro Detroit storefront locations on the north and west sides of the city. Our flagship location, in the heart of Detroit’s 8 Mile Road, is a combined retail storefront and over 180,000 square feet of the warehouse that serves as our global distribution center.
Manufacturer: Detroit Axle
Brand: Detroit Axle
Item Weight: 23 pounds
Product Dimensions: 47.34 x 8.91 x 5.34 inches
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer: No
Manufacturer Part Number: 2121_es3695x2
Special Features: Power Steering Rack & Pinion, Power Steering Rack & Pinions, Tie Rod End, Tie Rod Ends, Replacement for Ford Expedition 2003 2004 2005 2006
Date First Available: December 31, 2015
Frequently asked questions
If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is:
Thursday, Mar 5
Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
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![Detroit Axle - Rack and Pinion for 2014-2019 Mercedes-Benz CLA250 CLA45 AMG [w/Sport Package and w/Electronic Assist], 2015 2016 2017 2018 Electronic Rack and Pinion Assembly Replacement](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51ICa+K9uaL._AC_US500_.jpg)
Top Amazon Reviews
Swapping out my worn steering rack felt daunting—until the Detroit Axle kit made it almost too easy! I purchased the Detroit Axle Steering Rack & Pinion Kit (with outer tie rod ends) for my 2003 Eddie Bauer Ford Expedition after noticing play in the wheel and uneven steering response. What I Loved: Perfect Fitment: Everything bolted right up to my ’03 Expedition—no need for aftermarket adaptations or surprise trips to the parts store. Straightforward Installation: With basic hand tools and a jack, I had the entire assembly swapped in about two hours. The instructions were clear and accurate. Solid Build Quality: The new rack feels robust, and the tie rod ends are crisp with zero slop. Competitive Price: Compared to OEM quotes, this complete kit saved me several hundred dollars without sacrificing performance. Small Drawback: Grease Ports: It would be nice if the tie rod ends came pre-greased or the grease zircs were preinstalled, but a they threaded on quickly and a few pumps from the grease gun did the trick. Also be careful unpacking so as not to lose the zircs. Final Verdict: This Detroit Axle rack & pinion kit transformed my steering back to factory-tight precision at a fraction of the cost. If you need a reliable, affordable replacement for your Ford Expedition’s steering components, this is the kit to grab!
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Reviewed in the United States on June 30, 2025 by Duke
Bought this rack and pinion and it didn’t last 2 years and started leaking heavily. Contacted the company and they refuse to honor the warranty because I do not save the core return receipt and can’t provide a return tracking number from almost 3 years ago! Total scam! Buyer beware!
Reviewed in the United States on July 23, 2025 by Dj a.p. Vega
The steering rack fit in perfectly works perfect no problems very happy with product would buy again if needed thank you.
Reviewed in the United States on June 29, 2024 by Andrew A Jozwik
The rack & peanut assembly seems to be OK, no complaints so far. But the tie rod ends that are supposed to be included were not.
Reviewed in the United States on November 3, 2021 by Captain Packrat
I purchased this to install in my 2003 Ford Expedition 4x4 5.4L Eddie Bauer Edition. First and foremost, this is a huge pain in the a$$ project. The metal lines on my old steering rack (aka steering gear) corroded and failed which caused my issues. When one line goes, the rest on the vehicle lines (including brake and transmission lines) are not going to be far behind. You are going to need a lot of tools to do this job. Get yourself a ford fan clutch removal tool. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KO3AQ/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 a set of deep well impact sockets. I think I needed an 18 and 21 mm. a 1/2" breaker bar, or 1/2" ratchet with a cheater pipe, or a good 1/2" Impact gun various pry bars a set of open end/box wrenches 2 lb hammer (to knock out tie rod ends) not essential, but a set of ratcheting type box wrenches helps. a set of various ratcheting hose clamp pliers will save you a lot of struggling (like these): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z9RSU9W?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details a 1/2" torque wrench capable of 150 ft/lbs (111 ft/lbs for the tie rod ends and 150 ft/lbs for lug nuts). A grease gun A new air filter (why not) Two quarts power steering fluid. 3 gallons antifreeze (not diluted or 6 gallons 50/50) (if you do the transmission lines) 12 quarts Mercon V (not LV) and a new transmission filter New radiator hoses including the one that goes to the overflow bottle too. Might as well replace them while you're there. The cooling system hoses are extremely hard to do with the rack in place, not something you'll be able to do on the side of the road. Get you a new oil filter, 6 quarts of oil, an assortment of new hose clamps, all new power steering lines, and prepare to get your a$$ kicked... (Being conservative) I replaced the power steering pump too, and ended up replacing all the pulleys, serpentine belt, transmission oil cooler lines, transmission fittings, and radiator fittings. I didn't plan on replacing the transmission oil cooler lines but one started leaking just after I got everything put back together. The transmission lines are much easier to access with the rack out of the vehicle. Two of the three transmission oil cooler lines and the fittings you can only get from a Ford dealer and they are super expensive. If you do the transmission lines, don't even bother buying the special tool and trying to remove the old lines from the radiator.. just cut em', screw the old fittings out, and install the new fittings. It's expensive but you'll save yourself a lot of aggravation and possibly being stranded on the highway. Before you jack it up, start draining the radiator (5 gallon bucket needed), remove the two plastic covers (one over the radiator and the one over the intake), remove the air duct intake hose clamp on top the engine, remove the air filter housing clamp and remove the air filter. Take out the air box being careful to disconnect the MAF sensor. The rest of it you just pull up and yank it out of the fender. Remove the upper radiator hose(s) , fan shroud, and take the fan off using the fan clutch removal wrench. All that just to remove the 10 mm bolt from the steering linkage. All this helps when putting the steering lines back in and reconnecting the steering link too. If you don't do all this first, you'll be on a ladder doing it (like I did). Now jack up the truck and remove the wheels. Be extremely careful and make sure the truck is adequately supported. Asphault gets soft when it's warm, so if that's the surface you are planning to work on, you should put 1/2" plywood under your jack stands. Once it's jacked up finish draining the radiator and the block plugs (for a good flush while you're at it..) Remove the lower radiator hose from the radiator end and bend it out of the way. Remove the plastic drip shield under the oil filter and throw it away.. useless. Drain the oil and remove the oil filter. Removing the radiator hose, the oil drip shield, and the oil filter will provide some much needed working room. Disconnect the large bolts lower are 18 mm you need to hold one side and unscrew the other. The upper are 21 mm and there is a retainer on the back side. If you take it easy and let gravity help you the screww right downs without holding the back side. Once the bolts are out, knock out the brackets (note: those brackets are not symmetrical. The bolt holes are offset so there is a right and a left.) Push/pull the rack down off the steering linkage/knuckle and remove the 10 mm power steering hose retaining bolt. (FYI. I had to cut the old power steering lines with a sawzall because I couldn't pry them out of the old rack..). Disconnect the tie rod ends and then fish the rack out through the passenger side wheel well. Once you get the old rack out..(if applicable, install the new power steering pump (3 bolts, two from the top, one from the bottom). You'll want to install the new high pressure line on the power steering pump before you slide the new rack in. I ended up cutting a 3/4" box wrench in half with a 4" cutting wheel (to shorten it) so I could tighten the nut on the power steering pump. A crow's foot could be used but it's a pain either way. You'll then put in the block end of the new radiator hoses (while you can still get the clamps on them..) Something to check before you fish the new rack in, the power steering line retainer bolt that came out of my old rack was longer then the depth of the threaded hole on the re-manufactured rack. The bolt bottomed out before it went all the way down. I ended up cutting the bolt and make it shorter. Just before or immediately after you slide the new rack in, don't forget to remove the stupid little red plastic caps in the new steering rack before you stab the new power steering lines into it.. If you take the caps off before you slide it in the vehicle, drain the oil out of it first or oil is going to run out all over the place while you are trying to fish it in position. If you leave those stupid caps in and forget to take them out (like I did), the power steering lines will go into the holes but then you'll have problems getting them tightened down and be wondering what the heck is wrong.. I ruined one of the O rings in the process and ended up taking the rack all the way back out to dig those darn caps with a deck screw. I then had to get new o rings. Install the lines into the rack before you bolt it into position. There's just no room to work on the hoses or tighten the hose retainer bolt once it's bolted in.. this might be a silly way to go about it, but you could loosely bolt it up in the vehicle and install the tie rod ends, then remove the mounting bolts again and push the rack down to get to the hoses. This way, the tie rod ends hold up the rack up while you are working on the power steering lines. (Not exactly what I did but it's a thought of how I could have done it more easily). I had problems with one of the new power steering cooler lines being to small to fit onto the OEM cooler too. I had to file down the bump (I think it's called a barb) on the cooler to get it to slide on. Good luck with that.. Detroit Axle doesn't provide new stop nuts for the new tie rod ends, so you'll have to take the old ones off the old rack or go buy new ones else where. For me, one of the tie rod ends provided had something wrong with it.. I could not get grease to inject into it. I tried swapping it with a zerk fitting that I knew worked and I tried a new zerk fitting. I even spent $80 on a new grease gun. No luck. I had to buy different tie rod ends. Another thing, the ends of the boots are fixed with a zip tie that'll have to be cut in order to do an alignment. Removable clamps for this is something else that should probably be provided by Detroit Axle but they don't. Best of luck to you..
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Reviewed in the United States on July 5, 2020 by Keith McQuait
Product is ok, seems to work, but they offer a lifetime warrantee for sending the core back bit after 10 emails over many weeks I can not get my label to return the core.
Reviewed in the United States on October 8, 2021 by troy
It's a rebuild, not necessarily a bad thing. However it does not come with the nuts that lock the outer tie rod. You'll have to either take old ones all the way off to put on new or get new ones to try to get the aliment some what close to original by setting up side by side.
Reviewed in the United States on June 14, 2020 by Juan R Xinastle Juan R Xinastle
I was sent two left tie rod ends so that means you have to undo the right one to grease it
Reviewed in the United States on March 13, 2024 by Doug