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Pro Marine Supplies

Epoxy Resin Promise Table Top 2-Part- 2 Gallon High Gloss (1 Gal Resin + 1 Gal Hardener) Transform Your DIY Projects with Crystal Clear Finish - Ideal for Bar Tables, Tabletops, Countertops & More

    • Based on 6,368 reviews
Condition: New
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$115.99 Why this price?
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Availability: In Stock.
Fulfilled by Pro Marine Supplies
Arrives Friday, May 24
Order within 17 hours and 34 minutes
Available payment plans shown during checkout

Features

  • 1:1 Mixing Ratio for Easy Application: Our epoxy resin offers a simple 1:1 mixing ratio, making it an ideal resin kit for beginners and experienced DIY enthusiasts. Achieve precise and hassle-free results with our user-friendly epoxy resin kit, an essential addition to your resin art kit.
  • Food-Safe When Fully Cured: Our food safe epoxy resin is an ideal choice for projects that involve food contact, such as kitchen table tops, bar top. Its compatibility with various surfaces, including wood and metal, empowers your artistic ventures with flawless clarity.
  • Self-Leveling Brilliance: Banish the annoyance of uneven pours with our self leveling epoxy resin. Whether you're working on bartops, craft table, tabletop epoxy, countertop epoxy, or other surfaces, our resin guarantees a sleek and professional high-gloss finish.
  • Crystal-Clear High-Gloss Finish: Unlock the potential of your creative vision with our our epoxy resin's crystal clear, high-gloss finish. Elevate your projects with a touch of sophistication, perfect for adding elegance to tabletops, resin crafts, and more.
  • Water-Resistant and Impact-Proof: Shield your resin art and home decor creations from moisture damage using our water-resistant epoxy resin. Crafted to endure daily use, it ensures long-lasting protection and preserves the impeccable condition of your projects.
  • Epoxy Resin Excellence, American Made: Promise Epoxy brings over 40 years of experience to the forefront of epoxy resin craftsmanship, proudly based in the USA. Our relentless focus on quality and formula perfection sets our products apart.

Brand: Pro Marine Supplies


Material: Resin, Epoxy Resin Rainbow


Compatible Material: Wood


Item Form: Liquid


Special Feature: Self Leveling, UV Resistant, Crystal Clear, Strong, Water Resistant


Is Discontinued By Manufacturer ‏ : ‎ No


Package Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 11.85 x 11.77 x 5.91 inches; 6 Pounds


Item model number ‏ : ‎ CCER2


Date First Available ‏ : ‎ December 23, 2014


Manufacturer ‏ : ‎ Pro Marine Supplies


Frequently asked questions

If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is: Friday, May 24

Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.

To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.

View our full returns policy here.

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Leasing options through Acima may also be available during checkout.

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Similar Products

Top Amazon Reviews

    • Product Worked Great - WARNING LONG POST
Review Image by Daniel Chad Ryerson Daniel Chad Ryerson
Review Image by Daniel Chad Ryerson Daniel Chad Ryerson
Review Image by Daniel Chad Ryerson Daniel Chad Ryerson
So I have been wanting Epoxy the top of my bar for some time. I have been saving ticket stubs to events I have attended for over 35 years. So, the last thing I wanted to do was screw this up. I read the reviews for LOTS of different products. What I found most helpful was reading about other peoples experiences with the product. Especially people who had never done this before. Therefore, I am going to go ahead and add to the product knowledge of this epoxy. First, I will say what many other posts said - FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS. If you take short cut, you are going to pay the price. Your epoxy won't set or you will have other issues. So let's start with the mix. I did what everyone else had recommended. I affixed my ticket stubs to my bar counter tops. Now I should also mention this. I have a high counter top and a low counter top. I did a test run on my low counter top. On the lower counter top, I had taken CD jewel case covers (i had hundreds) and affixed them and did the same process. This was my test run. It did not turn out perfect. However, the imperfections were 100% MY FAULT. I read some 2 and 3 star ratings and looking back on them now, I would venture to say a lot of the screw ups I read were user error. Not trying to be hard on the DIY user, but much of the complaints I read were user screw ups. My test runs had issues because I didn't anticipate a lot of things. Now back to the mix. First, don't go cheap. Use a two new containers EVERY TIME you do a mix. My counter top was big - 2' x 10'. When I did my first test, I did it with a quart plastic mixing container. That would have taken me all night. I quickly switched to a 5 quart bucket. Get the ones that have the ounces marked on the side. I mixed batches 64 oz at a time. I did just like it said. Mix for 5 minutes and then transfer to a second - clean container and mix for 3 minutes. I just used Alexa for this part. About the mixing - this stuff is hard to mix together. I did my first batch or two with a paint stick. Eight minutes of that is brutal. I read a review with a guy who had used a paddle paint mixer on a drill. So, I decided to give it a try. First time, I screwed up. I thought use a high speed - full trigger - and get it mixed good. That was stupid. Just creates one big air bubble - actually thousands that make the mix look like milk. i was able to use a heat gun to get the bubble out. However, it took forever!!!! Second time, I just pulled the trigger until the paddle started spinning - lowest setting possible. I just moved it around and reversed the paddle every couple of minutes. Worked great. I don't think it came out with any more bubbles and they came out easily. Pouring the mixture was something most people didn't really talk about. When you do your seal coat, you can move it around with a blade. Be gentle or you will create valleys. Now on the flood coat, no one ever said to move the product around. The indication is that it is self-leveling. I would say that is accurate to a point. If you just pour it and let it run, it is going to stay really thick - between 3/8 inch and 1/2 inch. I didn't want it that thick. So, just like the seal coat, I moved it around again with a blade. I just used a 6 inch putty knife. This stuff is STICKY. I bought a 40 pack of rags from Home Depot and a gallon of denatured alcohol. I used this stuff a lot to wipe things off and clean up my putty knife. Once I poured out all the product on the bar top, I just worked it around making sure I got it up tight in the corners. I does self-level and it was just a thinner coat than the 1/2 inch. I used a heat gun to get out bubbles once I poured the epoxy out. I liked the gun because mine has a fan, think hairdryer, and covered more area. The bubbles come right out. It was a very easy process. However, don't do it once and leave it. You will get sneaky ones that creep up out of no where. I went back and checked it every 30 minutes for the first two hours of dry time. Ok, last couple of items. First, temperature - I kept the temp in my basement between 70 & 75 the entire time. Do what they say and don't let it go below 70. This will screw with the curing process. The final thing I would say is this. Once you have mixed it, the consistency is like thick honey. My bar is 3/4 inch laminated oak plywood. I have taken a piece of 1"x3" and made a half inch dado cut and used this trim piece to cover the edge of the ply wood. It fit really snug. I thought there was no way this was going to seep in, behind, down, and then back out of that piece of trim. Well, it did in a couple of places. if I was doing this again, I would run a bead of caulk on the under side of the bar to prevent those drips from happening. I was able to wipe it all up and keep the underside wiped down, but I had to do this for like two hours until the product got thick enough it no longer seeped out. Ok, sorry this is so long. But, i found the long review really helpful as I planned my project. I used two of the two gallon kits to do my upper and lower bar. Keep your environment as dust free as possible. Little threads and dust particles will get on the top and there is nothing you can do. This includes shutting heat vents in ceiling that are close to bar (learned that on my lower top.) . Final comment - TAKE YOUR TIME. This is not a go fast process. You have to be willing to go slow and be patient. I included a couple of pictures of the finished product. Love the way it turned out. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on February 23, 2020 by Daniel Chad Ryerson Daniel Chad Ryerson
    • Amazing product!
Review Image by RMche RMche
Review Image by RMche RMche
Review Image by RMche RMche
Review Image by RMche RMche
Review Image by RMche RMche
Review Image by RMche RMche
Review Image by RMche RMche
Review Image by RMche RMche
Review Image by RMche RMche
Review Image by RMche RMche
This product worked absolutely PERFECT for my countertop project. I’m beyond thrilled with the results. Everything went on smooth and gave me just enough time to accomplish what I needed to before the product set. Now, if you’ve never worked with Epoxy Resin there are a few VERY important things you need to keep in mind. I’ve worked with a good amount of resin and done a ton of research on this stuff, here’s all my tips and tricks I’ve picked up for doing countertops. Hope they help! 1) Temperature is CRITICAL. Your space MUST be between 75-85 degrees for the first 24 hours or you run the risk of your resin not setting properly. I’ve tested this theory on purpose and it didn’t turn out right. Even if it is miserable working in that temperature, you won’t regret it when your project turns out right. Scraping resin off your project because you decided to not do this, is literally the worst thing. Just picture runny, sticky, glue like bubblegum that you are trying to get off something. And water DOES NOT WORK for cleanup. Just FYI. Rubbing alcohol gets it off your skin pretty good. But not all of it. 2) Mixing the product for the right amount of time AND dumping it and remixing in a second container is very important. Don’t skip this step. It’s annoying and seems unnecessarily, but really you need to just do it. Yes, even if you’re using an electric mixer, which, side note, generates a lot of bubbles! So if you’re going for glass smooth, stick to a paint mixing stick. Constantly scrape the sides and bottom of your bucket to make sure you’re not leaving any unmixed product. Also, it’s best not to use a mixing container that has corners, stick to a bucket or something that is circular and does not have any wax coating on it. 3) Pouring more is better than pouring less, if you don’t pour enough you’re trying to drag the Epoxy across a surface and it won’t cover evenly. 4) Using a foam roller is great to help spread the Epoxy evenly, but it will absorb lots of resin. Which is good if you are doing a lip or edge of your countertops. You can get away with it well enough. Or I use a plastic paint scraper. That works pretty well too! 5) With this product I didn’t need to use a torch or heat gun very much because I didn’t have many bubbles. I personally like to use a heat gun opposed to a blowtorch because I feel like the heat gun doesn’t get as hot as the blowtorch but it pops the bubbles well enough and you don’t run the risk of scorching your Epoxy as much. 6) If you do decide to mix paint into your resin, make sure it’s Acrylic. Or you can use spray paint. That works well with resin. If you do decide to use any kind of metallic paint, don’t leave it sitting in the bucket for too long. For whatever reason, I left a bucket of resin with metallic spray paint mixed in sitting for a little too long and it got WAY too hot and bubbled up and started melting my bucket... so just a heads up about that. Don’t leave your resin sitting in a small container for too long. 7) Prep your surface well. My countertops had laminate on top so I sanded that well and applied a primer coat (just found a water based paint from Lowe’s.) let that dry completely and it worked great. I purchased two 2 gallon kits and it did a base coat, a second coat, and a final flood (top) coat, (3 coats total.) My countertops are approximately 38 square feet and I just barely had enough. If you’re not experienced with using Epoxy resin, I’d say you should probably get a little extra just to be safe. Whew!! Hope all that helps someone out there! Good luck! ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on June 11, 2019 by RMche RMche

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