Buy Now, Pay Later
As low as
$5
/ mo
Learn more
- – 4-month term
- – No impact on credit to apply
- – Instant approval decision
- – Secure and straightforward checkout
Ready to go? Add this product to your cart and select a plan during checkout.
Payment plans are offered through our trusted finance partners Klarna, Affirm, Afterpay, Zip, Apple Pay, and Google Pay. No-credit-needed leasing options through Acima may also be available at checkout.
Learn more about financing & leasing here.
Free shipping on this product
30-day returns
Learn more
This item is eligible for return within 30 days of receipt
To qualify for a full refund, items must be returned in their original, unused condition. If an item is returned in a used, damaged, or materially different state, you may be granted a partial refund.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
Availability:
In Stock.
Arrives
Thursday, Oct 22
Recently Viewed
Features
- Kit repairs cuts, tears and burns in automotive leather and vinyl
- Color matching guide helps customize the color
- Textured grain papers help match coarse to smooth pattern
- An inexpensive option for repairing minor damage
- Complete kit includes supplies, tools and directions
- Repair leather and vinyl on a variety of surfaces including car seats, dashboards, motorcycle seats, center consoles, vinyl tops, marine & RV upholstery, furniture
- Includes 7 color mixable repair compounds, textured grain papers, mixing cups, vinyl adhesive, applicator tool, and heat transfer tool
- Complete instructions included
- Patching holes in leather and vinyl immediately improves the appearance of a car's interior and helps maintain the vehicle's value
- 3 Kits/Case
Description
Scotch Delicate Surface Painter’s Tape is great for surfaces that require a little extra care such as wood floors, wallpaper, cabinets, painted drywall, and freshly painted walls (painted at least 24 hours ago). This delicate surface tape with gentle adhesive can stay on surfaces for up to 60 days and then removes easily without leaving any sticky residue behind. This tape features Edge-Lock Technology that seals out paint to deliver sharp paint lines and clean removal for your more sensitive projects, including accent walls, decorative stripes and patterns. Whether you're protecting your hardwood floors from paint splatter or going all out with a decorative mural, rely on Scotch Delicate Surface Painter's Tape for a professional look that's easy on your surfaces.
Brand: 3M
Specific Uses For Product: Automotive interiors, Furniture, Marine & RV upholstery
Material: Adhesive
Item Form: Kit
Special Feature: Easy color and texture matching
Specific Uses For Product: Automotive interiors, Furniture, Marine & RV upholstery
Item Form: Kit
Other Special Features of the Product: Easy color and texture matching
Container Type: Packet
Viscosity Level: Medium to High
Full Cure Time: 24 hours
Water Resistance Level: Not Water Resistant
Compatible Material: Leather, Vinyl
Item Package Quantity: 1
Volume: 280 cubic centimeters
Material Type: Adhesive
Color: Clear
Brand Name: 3M
Model: 08579
Unit Count: 1.25 Fluid Ounces
UPC: 051135085790
Number of Pieces: 1
Number of Packs: 1
Global Trade Identification Number: 90
Manufacturer: 3M AAD Consumer (Domestic)
Included Components: Leather & Vinyl Repair Kit
Item Type Name: Leather & Vinyl Repair Kit
Item Weight: 4.8 ounces
Part Number: 08579
Warranty Description: 2 year manufacturer warranty
Frequently asked questions
If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is:
Thursday, Oct 22
Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
View our full returns policy here.
- Klarna Financing
- Affirm Pay in 4
- Affirm Financing
- Afterpay Financing
- Zip Pay in 4
- Financing through Apple Pay
- Financing through Google Pay
Learn more about financing & leasing here.
Similar Products
Top Amazon Reviews
The flat blade screwdriver in my back pocket ripped my grey leather car seat when I sat down. Listen to your Mom when she says don’t put tools in your back pocket. I practiced this repair on an old leather ottoman with a couple of long rips. Was very pleased. The repair on my leather car seat was very good, and is better than the rip. It’s not perfect, but this is a repair kit, not a magic kit, and results were very good. Practice brings good luck. MY EXPERENCE and RESULTS follow: TIPS from my experience: The mystery repair compound is heat curing. It will not cure properly without substantial heat. Also, if left in the open air, it will start to solidify. After 24 hours it will start to become a sticky, clumpy, lumpy mess, so don’t leave the compound out in the open air. The compound is not paint or “color”- it is a heat curing “polymer”. It had the consistency of really thick honey out of the container. It is very prone to stringing, so be careful not to drag strings of compound over the good part of your repair piece. The uncured compound can be wiped off with a paper towel. I suspect that if left on long enough, the wet compound will permanently stain due to the color in it, so be careful. If there are voids/ pits, crevices after the first repair, you can add more compound and heat cure it right over cured compound. THE HEAT DISK: The heat disk will hold heat but will rapidly cool if you are using it outside with a breeze. If you wait too long to apply the heat disk, the disk will cool to the point of not being hot enough to cure the compound. So, have your heat source next to your repair. Pictures and reviews from unsuccessful repairs clearly showed that the material was not sufficiently heated with the heat disk. A hair dryer is not sufficient! The compound needs some concentrated heat to cure. I heated with the disk several times before removing the graining paper with great results. COLOR MIXING: The most challenging part. I placed a piece of clear box tape over the good part of my repair piece. I then applied my color-mixed candidates onto the clear tape to evaluate the color match. Both repairs I made (light grey and dark brown) had a pretty close color match in the end. GRAINING: To get a proper grain, the graining paper has to be LIGHTLY PRESSED into the WET compound before applying the heat. If disk is too hot when placed on vinyl, it will iron out the vinyl grain of your item and it will appear smooth. Practice with small spots of wet compound on the vinyl sample supplied! MIXING THE COMPOUND for REPAIR: I mixed my compound on a paper plate. The paper plate provided a nice surface where I could mix different color palates (different shades) on. I could easily pull a small amount aside and lighten or darken it, or tint it with other colors. I could then put a dab of several candidates onto the clear tape, placed over the good part, to see how good the match was. APPLYING the HEAT WITH THE DISK I applied heat to the disk and then applied the hot disk to the graining paper, constantly moving the disk over the repair area for about a minute. My best result was with applying the heat several times, letting the paper cool then removing the paper. Use a light moderate pressure to get a good feathered edge around the compound. Too much pressure and you’ll squish the material out past the repair. Too little pressure and too much heat and you will get a lump of cured material without graining: not too hot, not too light, not too heavy: PRACTICE A COUPLE OF TIMES TO NAIL THE HEAT AND PRESSURE. I used a propane torch to heat the disk. I got best results with heating the disk a COUPLE OF TIMES for maybe 5 seconds each, allowing the heat to distribute for 10 seconds in between, before applying to the graining fabric (first try, disk was way too hot and burned the graining paper and the material cured in a lump). To gauge the heat, I used a clean paper plate, with my heat-sensing-thumb under it, and quickly pressed the disk on the paper plate, over my thumb. If the disk is too hot, it will burn your thumb, and the paper plate/ graining paper. If the paper plate turns brown, it’s too hot: wait a couple of seconds and apply it again, then place onto the repair. Too hot and you’ll iron out the graining from your vinyl. Not hot enough and the compound will be sticky. If the heat wasn’t suffient, just apply heat again. Practice on the sample! VOIDS AFTER CURING? On the brown leather ottoman with rips, the ends of the torn leather were curled, and would not lay perfectly flat. After my first heating session, there were voids. I re-applied wet compound to the voids and re-applied the heat disk. I had to fill voids in the cured compound several times because I couldn’t get the leather flat. It worked like a charm, you can’t tell I applied compound multiple times. The repair built up very well (I didn’t use the adhesive to fill the voids). SHEEN: If the finished, fully cured repair is too shiny, use a pencil eraser to dull the shine. If it is not shiny enough, apply a tiny amount of paste wax or clear shoe polish and buff. Practice on the sample and you will see exactly what I described, and you’ll be able to nail your actual repair. I would highly recommend this kit to my rowdy back-pocket-tool-toting friends. Good luck….
...
show more
Reviewed in the United States on April 12, 2021 by KB
Wow, did this product take a lot of trial and error and experimentation to work!! I found it IMPOSSIBLE to get it to dry using the tool they provide and heating it on an iron (as the instructions say to do), with a lighter, or on a stove. I called the company and they said that they've heard a hair dryer works. I tried that and while a small area did dry using the hair dryer at top heat and applying it directly to the texturing paper, my hair dryer would shut off before the whole area was dry because it was overheating. So, what did I do? I applied the resin to my chair smoothed it out with the spatula. Allowed a couple days for it to air dry. However, while it was still tacky, I used the texturing paper to texture the surface. Believe it or not, this works when the surface is mostly dry but still a little tacky. Then I allowed the resin to dry completely. To my dismay, it dried with a dull finish, while the rest of the chair has a slightly shiny finish. This was the only thing that allowed the repair to be detected. So, I sprayed the repair with glossy clear spray fixative. After attempting the repair around 4 times (using two kits), I can hardly believe it, but it worked!! The repair looks great and isn't detectable unless you're about 2 inches away examining the surface. The chair looks almost as good as it did when it was new. Truth is, I would have given up on using this kit and just thrown the chair out and bought another, but it is a style I really like and was hard to find. It is true that if there are any areas where the surface is loose that the method the company recommends and the method I used will cause those surfaces to come loose, worsening the problem. However, I think this may have been a blessing in the long run because so much of the loose finish came off I started off having to repair and 1" x 2" hole and some cracks, and ended up having to repair the whole top of the chair, around 15" x 4". However, because of this, the repair looks more uniform, less patchy, and it will likely last longer since the loose areas were all removed. One more tip, If the piece of furniture you are repairing is a really dark brown, like the color of semisweet chocolate, you are better off starting off with black and adding brown to it. Although someone said that the resin dries darker than it appears when wet, I got the best results by matching the color of the chair initially. It actually dried lighter with a dull finish, but when I applied the glossy fixative it returned it to the original proper color. Oh, and one last thing. I needed to fix an area where teh surface had lifted up when using the texturing paper and had run out of black resin but had some brown left. Out of desperation, I had the idea to add black printer ink to the brown resin to get the color I needed. I could hardly believe it, but it worked, and it didn't affect the way the resin dried. Truth be told, this is a difficult process and difficult product to work with and fixing this chair was an ordeal. However, if you look at the reviews for all the vinyl repair products they are difficult to work with. I saw this product and potential, persevered, and was happy and relieved to pack away all the materials having had made a successful repair job.
...
show more
Reviewed in the United States on October 26, 2015 by Sprezzatura
FINAL UPDATE after a couple months use: This did not hold up at all. I did my best to protect it actually by putting a cloth over it so it would get less rubbing when someone sat on the seat. But now the rip is opening back up again. Not completely but now that the process has started I can tell it is going to just continue to open back up. Picture update #2: I tried to put text on the pictures but for some reason this only worked fo some pics. Also it seems that Amazon has loaded them in a mixed up order, so you'll just have to use some logic as the order is not as I describe in this review Picture update: Pics #1 and #2 the day it first ripped (i.e. Before repair) Pic#3 First attempt at Step 1 vinyl adhesive trying to hold leather flaps down. Pic#4 Doing step 1 vinyl adhesive with replacement kit and giving up on trying to glue the flaps down Pic#5 Vinyl adhesive step 1 glue dries clear (before step 2) Pic #6 Beginning of step 2 ...color compound is applied but not yet heated Pic 7,8,9 After color compound is cured. Original Review: This is going to be a long review in case any of these details can help someone else. If you really are going to do this you might want to read my reviews and learn from my pain. If you are just wondering whether you should do this…here is my summary: In summary….. A. if you REALLY NEED to fix your leather/vinyl object….especially if it falls within the size guidelines of this product B. If you are have a TON of patience C. If you have a TON of time and many days over which to do this D. If you are willing to put up with the potential of first getting a bad kit and needing to get a replacement E. If you do not expect this repair to look good, you just need it repaired F. If you already own or are willing to buy an iron or some other tool to heat up the heat transfer tool G. If you can live with the bad results if this doesn’t work very well THEN give this a try because it may end up being your best solution and you may actually be satisfied, or perhaps even happy, with the results. If all of those things are not true, maybe you’d be better off not trying this. Read on for all the gory details of my experience… First…full disclosure that the repair in the leather that I was attempting to fix was outside the guidelines of what this product says it can handle. But as it was a longish but skinny crack ( if it were divided in half would have fell in the guidelines), I felt like I could probably do it in sections and whatever happened, it would be better than letting it stay cracked with the risk of the crack getting worse. I recommend you download and read the instructions thoroughly, and/or watch some of the Youtube videos, as my review will assume you know the steps involved. So here is my long story….I hope to edit this later and add photos. I was trying to repair a cracked in a leather driver’s car seat. I believe it may have been previously fixed/tampered with as the car was purchased only 3 days earlier (used) before this crack appeared and it had looked a little funny in that spot. So I don’t know what or how they had earlier repaired it, but once it cracked it really looked like it was going to get worse and the edges of the leather were starting to curl up. The backing cloth was still very securely in place. The seat was rapidly deteriorating so I ordered the repair kit ASAP and as soon as it arrived I attempted the repair. My first challenge was that I wanted to glue the leather back down as flat as possible. The 3M instructions tell you to use the Step 1 vinyl adhesive to put the backing cloth if needed. I did not need the backing cloth as there was already the original cloth backing, but I wanted to use the vinyl adhesive to hold the leather flaps down (glue it to the cloth backing) and hopefully prevent further tearing. My challenge was how to flatten out the leather flaps during the 4 hour drying time. I was afraid that anything I might put on the seat to weigh down and flatten the leather flaps would ultimately get glued to the seat itself. I contacted 3M and they said there were no solutions, but that it wouldn’t be a problem as the second step (color and heat process) would flatten everything out. I was skeptical so the only thing I could think to try was to weigh it down with some pliers but to use pieces of a rubber pencil erasers as wedges between the tool and the leather. I figured worse case if the pencil eraser ended up getting glued to the seat I could easily break it up and remove it. In fact, one teeny tiny piece the size of maybe the period in this sentence did stick, so I easily plucked it off. The glue goes on white and was the consistency of Elmer’s glue….it should not be solid. I left it to dry overnight and was relieved to see the next morning that it had dried clear. I figured this already was a big improvement and was going to help stop the leather from ripping further. For the step 2 (color and heat curing) I had read so many reviews that indicated the heat transfer tool didn’t work and they just used an iron, curling iron, etc. directly. One reviewer wisely suggested using heavy duty kraft paper, such as a paper grocery store bag, to shield off areas you are not covering by the grain paper. So I dutifully attempted to experiment first on the sample vinyl that is included in the kit before I touched my leather seat. Well, it seemed not matter what I did, the color would cure onto the grain transfer paper rather than staying on the vinyl. I tried everything you could think of. First I followed the directions exactly using the heat tool. I tried doing what I saw in Youtube videos. I tried using the iron directly. I tried Every combination of time and heat settings and tool that I could think of. None of it worked. No matter what I did, no matter what combination of tool, time or setting, every time it cured….but it was stuck on the grain paper and not the vinyl. I began to think “What is the magical substance that is making this supposedly not stick to the grain paper anyway, because maybe my grain paper is missing whatever this is.” Let me be clear….it was NOT the case that the WET color compound was stuck to the grain paper and just had not cured yet (and therefore needed more heat). It was the case that the color compound was fully cured, fully dry, yet it was stuck on the grain paper and not stuck to the vinyl like it was supposed to be. I could easily peel or rub it off the grain paper…it was dry to the touch not wet. So…I called 3M. The agent told me that the color “needs” to stick to the vinyl adhesive (glue from step 1) and that without it, it has nothing to stick to. Huh. I thought, that’s odd. Because the directions sure make it seem like the glue is ONLY needed if you have a rip that requires you to put the backing cloth. And I know one Youtube video simulated a burn in a piece of leather, and he fixed it without using the step 1 glue. But, since I obviously had not put any step 1 glue on the test vinyl, it seemed that could be my problem. And since I would ultimately be using the glue on the real leather seat, I hoped that this was going to solve the whole issue. So, I put a whole bunch of sample spots of glue on the test vinyl so I could have lots of areas to practice on (I circled them with a sharpie so they’d be easy to find once they dried clear). I waited again overnight to try. Next day, the vinyl adhesive glue was dry so I tried the step 2 color and heat again. Once again, no matter what combination of heat source, heat level, length of time…..the color would cure and dry onto the grain paper and come completely off the test vinyl. And now the step 1 vinyl adhesive glue would also peel off the vinyl and get stuck with the color onto the grain paper. Aarghh!!! So I called 3M back and the agent said “she had never heard of this happening before.” Perhaps nobody calls to complain. She said she would ask an engineer but since it was Friday they probably wouldn’t answer. There goes my chance to fix it over the weekend. In the meantime, I of course had to continue to drive my car so the step 1 vinyl adhesive glue was a bit of help in stopping it from getting worse, but it wasn’t a complete solution and it too began to wear away and the edges of the leather curl up again. So I realized just Step 1 was not going to be a long-term solution and I needed to get the color heat compound to work. The following week I called 3M again. They said the engineers had not had a chance to look at the issue but perhaps I had a bad kit. They said they could send me a replacement or get a refund. I really wanted this to work, so I opted for a replacement kit. After about 10 days I received the replacement kit and it was time to try again. Everything in the kit looked similar to the first kit I used except I noticed the grain papers had a more pronounced grain stamped into them. I really needed the print that tells you “This Side Up” with these grain papers, whereas with the first kit I tried it was fairly obvious which side was the grain and which was not. I needed to redo step 1 vinyl adhesive glue because by this point it had really started to fall apart. There was also no hope of trying to hold down the edges of the leather flaps as they were really curling after all this time had passed. I just had to hope they were right in saying step 2 fixes all that (spoiler alert: it didn’t fix it) Again, I waited the required 4 hours for it to dry. While I was waiting for that it was time to test the step 2 on the new test vinyl with the new grain papers to see if it worked. I decided to first try it without the step 1 vinyl adhesive as I was really suspicious that doing that was NOT required (again, the instructions don’t say it and there was the Youtube video). I decided I would NOT risk messing around with anything other than the supplied heat transfer tool. I would once again follow the instructions exactly….and …..lo and behold it worked! The color cured onto the vinyl and not the grain paper!! Woo hoo! AND there was no step 1 vinyl adhesive on the test vinyl, so that advice had been wrong and big waste of my time from 3M. So once the step 1 vinyl adhesive was dried on the real leather seat, I set out to do Step 2 color and heat on the car’s leather seat. Frightening. I decided to continue to use the heat transfer tool for 2 reasons. (1) That is how this is designed and the way it is instructed to be used and (2) I figured it was less likely that I would ruin any other part of the seat….holding an iron over the seat was seeming a bit too risky even if I was prepared to mask it all off with paper bags. Even though I was going to need to do this in sections because the grain paper wasn’t long enough to cover the entire area (essentially I needed 2 grain papers), I decided I should cover the whole thing with the color heat compound just in case. I didn’t want to accidentally hit the step 1 vinyl adhesive glue with the heat transfer tool and cause it to melt (and then have to wait another 4 hours for the next application to dry!) so I figured it was better to just use 2 of the most similar grain papers side by side. I figured I would start with the “best” match and could always switch the other paper when I got to it if that was needed. Well…it worked….sort of. It was painful. I had my iron set on the highest temperature and had run a long (powerful) outdoor extension chord over to my car so that I could have the iron right next to where I was working. Because I had the earlier failed kit, I had 2 heat transfer tools I could use. I actually set a brick on the ground next to the iron, and would have 1 tool warming up while I used one tool. I would set a timer on my phone and play music while I painfully held the tool on the iron for 3 minutes to warm it up. I would then set a time for 1 minute while I used the tool on just a small area just slightly larger than the tool itself to try to cure the compound. Then I would do it again on the same spot. Then I’d heat up the tools again and do the next spot. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. Occasionally when I would think the whole area was cured I would set a timer and let it cool completely for 15 minutes. There would always be one spot that was either visibly not cured, or felt a bit tacky so I’d have to give it more heat treatment. I did this for 6 hours until the mosquitoes were going to eat me alive and I had to leave it all overnight. The next day there were still some tacky spots, but also in the light of day there were a couple of areas that just looked like they were going to lift up. There were also a couple of areas that just looked like they would crack open as soon as someone sat on the seat, so I tried to fine tune the whole thing…pushing on the seat to simulate someone sitting, etc.. I gave it a good 2 additional hours of fine tuning. The end result….you can see for yourself in the pictures if I am able to post them. I would say “It’s better than it was and hopefully will stop it from ripping further…..but if I had not seen how it was before I would think this is terrible.” I seriously do not think this is going to withstand the test of time and someone sitting on it. In fairness I think 3M would say that it was never meant to do a crack that is this long and their instructions say that. I will not be surprised if I have to redo this again in the future very soon. I’ll try to report back if that is the case. Aesthetically it looks terrible right now and I can’t help feeling I could somehow make it better if I just tried longer, but after 8 solid hours of doing this, I had run out of time and patience. And to be completely fair, it looked even worse before when it was ripping. I also think the extreme humid weather right now may not be helping, so I will retry in the fall when the air is crisp and dry. I will probably have to buy a new kit just to be able to get new grain papers as the ones I used are a lot worse for wear after 8 hours of being heated. I am not sure they will continue to work. Was 3M’s customer service any good? Mixed review there. Well…they are friendly and so many products don’t even give you anyone to talk to any more, so they get points for that. However, they gave me 2 incorrect pieces of advice: (1)Claiming you need the Step 1 vinyl adhesive for the Step 2 Color Compound to stick to and (2) Claiming the curled pieces of leather will flatten out when you do Step 2. Also they promised to get answers from engineers about why this was sticking to the grain paper, but I never did get that answer (although I guess to be honest I never expected them to). They took a very long time to answer me and while I waited my seat deteriorated further and further. But they did send me a replacement kit (which took a long time to come), which in the end worked. So from that perspective they did help me.
...
show more
Reviewed in the United States on July 29, 2022 by June Cullen
This is a great leather repair kit! It has everything you need to fix a rip, hole or tear and for a great price. I was worried the quality wouldn't be up to par because it is one of the cheapest options but that is not the case. I had a large rip in my driver side seat in my car. (I have added pictures of before, during and after) The car is new to us, otherwise I would have fixed the tear before it got so large. I was worried that its size was going to be too big for this kit or just too large to fix. Once again, it was no problem! The glue was also a concern for me. The rip was in the usual spot in a car seat. An area that gets worn out from constantly being sat on. While applying the glue, it didn't seem like anything special but once it dried, it's been solid! I have been amazed at how strong it feels. Already a week of use and it feels sturdy and permanent. I did have trouble with the paint however. I wasn't actually concerned about matching colors. All I really wanted was to fix the rip. Since no one besides my husband and I will ever see the fixed product, it's appareance didn't matter. But the paint was there and I figured I might as well put some on. Now, the instructions are some what vague and general. I applied the paint in my garage in 20 degree weather (the glue as well). The glue had dried with the assistance of a blow dryer in about 3 hours (4 hours is recommended). You are suppose to let the paint set for 24 hours which we knew ahead of time and I had planned accordingly. It must have been the cold weather (I didn't want to wait months until winter is over to fix this seat) but 42 hours later it was still tacky to the touch even after 1 1/2 hours of intermittent blow drying. I eventually took a wet paper towel and wiped away as much paint as possible because I needed to use my car. Over all, this is a great product for a very reasonable price.
...
show more
Reviewed in the United States on January 18, 2016 by bethcam
I was excited to see if I could repair the rips on my driver side leather seat of my '97 Toyota 4Runner. After watching a few different videos, including the one using this 3M product, I went to work on the repair. There are three distinct rips on seat, one that was about an 1" long with an opening of about 1/4", then larger rip of about 2 1/2" by about 1/2", and finally one that was more of a star pattern rip about the size of a half-dollar piece. The kit came with a single piece of backing material, about 3" x 3" and I used all of it between the three areas and could have used a bit more but got it to work. The supplied adhesive worked will to glue the backing to the leather from underneath. I let the adhesive dry overnight and looked good and ready for the surface filler. The surface filler comes in several colors allowing you to mix a color close to your seat. I had a very difficult time mixing colors to come up with something close to the beige of my leather seat. Finally settled on a mix that I thought would work as the directions stated the color would lighten up slightly, so I went a bit darker but was nowhere near the same color. I applied the filler in a thin layer and it never really cured or dried properly. Even after a few days the filler was still damp and had to basically wipe off so I could sit on the seat to move the vehicle. I pretty much gave up on the kit and ordered a new leather seat cover, which involves removing the seat from the vehicle to be able to access the bottom of the seat and undo all the fasteners and replace with the new seat bottom. Don't waste you money on this solution unless you have a very minor rip or tear, then it might work.
...
show more
Reviewed in the United States on December 12, 2016 by Fishin' Fool
Amazing product. Easy to use. My headlights look like new!!
Reviewed in the United States on September 25, 2026 by robin j nowoslawski
One review mentioned Elmer's glue and finger paint; This is how I feel. I attempted to repair two 3-inch tears on a driver side seat. The quality of the glues/patch materials are poor and it takes so long to work with because of cure times. My tears were unique, so please see the pics. I spent a day prepared to repair by watching YouTube videos (which helped) and a day and a half repairing the seat. Repairs took a long time because of the size of the tears and glue's cure time. My tears were unique since they were near seams, making it hard to place the backing material. Overall, the repair looked good but did not hold. The tears opened again after one week, they even opened on sides not near any seams. I will now go to the vinyl shop for the best repair. I might consider this product if I had a minor scuff but not for any split, especially on a seat that must have tensile strength to resist re-opening.
...
show more
Reviewed in the United States on December 31, 2020 by Joe Mallory
This is not a quick and easy fix, but it's a big winner if you are willing to take the time, use care, and develop some skill. First, you'll become an expert in mixing colors. The liquid is like acrylic paint, and doesn't dry out when open for mixing, so there's no rush. There are instructions, but you'll need a good eye, and instinct for color. I had no experience, started with a practice sheet, then on an inconspicuous area, then worked up my courage and skills. I restored a very damaged case for an expensive telescope worth thousands of dollars. Vinyl was missing from corners, and these took several steps. Experiment with the textures, and know that you can apply this in layers, like coats of paint, if you want to change texture, or refine your color to a better match. Best to do tiny areas - DON'T RUSH! Like touching up a car paint chip, just apply the goop to the tiny hole, not overlapping the surrounding undamaged surface. For the heat source, I used a frying pan on simmer, so that drops of water would just skitter. I rested the little tool in the pan between applications. Also, a toothpick was MUCH more useful that the "spatula" tool included. When you make up your color, you'll have a leftover little pot of your custom color for future repairs. It will have the same shelf life as the color components that come with the kit.
...
show more
Reviewed in the United States on May 7, 2017 by Info Source