FAHREN H11/H9/H8 LED Headlight Bulbs, 60W 14000 Lumens Super Bright LED Headlights Conversion Kit 6500K Cool White IP68 Waterproof, Pack of 2
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This item is eligible for return within 30 days of receipt
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Size: H11/H9/H8
Features
- 300% Brighter Than Halogen - Top Automotive Grade LED chips with 60W, 14,000LM per pair, 6500K cool white. Super focused beam pattern design provides wider and farther lighting range which is 3 times brighter than your original halogen bulb.
- Over 5,0000 Hours Lifespan - Whole aviation aluminum body, unique hollow carved heat sink design and 1,2000RPM turbo cool fan provide super cooling ability, which ensures a longer lifespan up to 5,0000 hours.
- 10 Minutes Easy Installation - Almost 1:1 mini design same as halogen, perfectly fit into your housing and factory sockets without any modification, just plug and play.
- CAN bus Ready for 98% Vehicles - Our bulbs work with 98% of vehicle's computer system without error, while some sensitive models of Ford, Jeep, Dodge, Ram, Volvo, Lexus, Chrysler, Mini and etc may require additional CAN bus decoder to be installed.
- Note - The filter system may not be 100% accurate or up to date, please check your owner's manual or the part number on your original bulbs to confirm the bulb size. Refer to "how to pick the right bulb size" in our Product Description.
Brand: FAHREN
Light Source Type: LED
Color Temperature: 6500 Kelvin
Wattage: 60 watts
Item Package Quantity: 1
Voltage: 12 Volts
Fit Type: Vehicle Specific
Position: Front
Manufacturer: Fahren
Model: LED Bulb
Item Weight: 11.3 ounces
Package Dimensions: 7.17 x 5.51 x 2.05 inches
Item model number: H11
Exterior: Painted
Manufacturer Part Number: WMDVJHWWFE11
Special Features: 50,000H Lifespan, Adjustable Beam, Plug and Play
Date First Available: February 13, 2019
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To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.
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Top Amazon Reviews
Size: H11/H9/H8
Had to return a set because the LED was damaged. The "aircraft aluminum" is really soft and the set screw stripped out when I was changing a bulb location. Once installed these bulbs are fine, but handle with extreme care while installing. TEST, TEST TEST your Chinese made electronics. I stress tested my bulb set by running my low and high beams for 1 hour straight and the bad bulb presented itself quickly. I'm testing these with the Beamtech H11. As for output there's no difference between light output or quality or cutoff line. The heatsink on the Beamtech gets scaldingly hot during normal operation. The Fahren spreads its heat between the driver and bulb fan very well. In close quarters operation, the fan of the Fahren is more useful. For the Fahrens, do yourself a favor and get some larger zip ties. Look for high heat points (300 deg F or up) and UV resustance. These cost very little per 100. Lastly for this update, I'm running LED highbeams at 13.4 volts, the most my vehicle allows. The reflector lens sends this light about 1/3 mile center over and forward of the low beam cutoff line in an urban setting. To be certain, Ultras by Sylvania or Phillips Super Brights would throw light much further, but the life of those bulbs is much shorter than the factory spec H11LL. I'm not unhappy though. With the software I described, I set my low, high and fog lights to be able to run simultaneously. *** The early review is that these bulbs are leagues above the stock headlights. I love the brightness and white light the Fahrens offer. I'm going to update with photos but I wanted to use this space to explain some information about LED upgrades in general, FCA products specifically and working with the Fahrens because the manual leaves a lot to be desired. TL:DR: The Fahren bulbs are fantastic replacement in the reflector lenses of the 2017 Dodge Grand Caravan in both the high and low beam positions. For FCA vehicles, you need software, like AppCar Diag FCA, to disable PWM voltage management (by switching the headlights to HID) to stop the LED flickering and to enable the volt step control if you wish to continue using the highbeam bulb position for the low beams. This can also be done by a decent dealership, but the software is easier and not too expensive. WARNING: Do not buy electronic items for any reason from the web unless you are ready to work with or install the product within the return period. TEST, TEST, TEST before throwing away the packaging! When installing the bulbs, read or watch videos online, even if you think you know what you're doing. Many, many newer cars use a headlight mounting system incorporated into the bumper or the trim. This means you may need to remove these things. Trim tools are cheap here on AZN. If your headlamp install involves removing plastic "xmas tree" fasteners, buy extra replacements here on AZN. Aftermarket fasteners can be bought in 25, 50 and 100 quantities for as much as 1 OEM clip. The black wire from your car's headlamp plug 'usually' is the negative (-), but this may not be universally true. If your get your bulb installed well and it does not light, first make sure the male plug from the car is pushed in firmly into the female bulb ends. The click sound alone may not indicate the bulb is plugged in fully. Second, if the bulb doesn't light and it's plugged in snugly, reverse the plug. The Fahren blub is polarity protected, it'll on light when plugged in properly. *TEST TEST TEST all lights in the headlamp assembly BEFORE your reassemble. The headlamp wire is part of a harness and you can dislodge other wires inadvertently. TEST TEST TEST all the bulbs immediately after reassembly for the same reason. FAHREN H11 BULB NOTES: 360 collar is not described in the booklet manual included with the bulb so I'll explain here. In the box you get an allen key. It's small and narrow so don't misplace the tool. There is a set screw on the collar, under the blue gasket. Loosen, but don't fully extract the set screw. Right is right, left turn of the screw is loose. Holding the bulb upright (power cable dangling down), you can push down on the collar against the white gasket and rotate the collar. Do not stop at the two index holes on the collar as a set position. Those index points are to remove the collar from the bulb and are not snug enough for inserting and removing the bulb. If your bulb does fit because of the locking tabs, you can try to get horizontal clearance at the index points, but for most installations this should not be an issue. Aluminum is soft. Do not overtighten the set screw. Snug the set screw without over tightening it. ***With the bulb in the housing, the LEDs need to be pointing left and right against the reflector, collector or projector, and be parallel to the ground. Said another way, the rectangle tip of the bulb should be perpendicular to the ground. This is essential! If your install goes well but your light looks dim or has dark spots, check that the bulb is mounted as I described here.*** ABOUT CANBUS: As your shopping for LED bulbs, you see info about CANBUS readiness and such, it's all BS. CANBUS is a vehicle communication standard pioneered by Bosch. Simply put, CANBUS is a language that you car's computer modules can use to deliver commands, record statuses for review and ensure that commands are valid as they are delivered in the heat and vibrations of your car's wiring. CANBUS also saves wiring as commands can be sent over wire. For example: on your CANBUS car, if you roll down the window in the back passenger side from the driver's seat, that front switch is no longer wired to the back window. All the window switches are computer modules--you press the window down button, the module under that button sends a digital code requesting a window rolled down, other modules on the CANBUS validate that request and once the recode is validated the window rolls down. This all happens at the speed of electricity. CANBUS is now a legal requirement on most passenger vehicles sold in the US and elsewhere as the full status of all CANBUS actions are stored in all of the car's computer modules, similar to an airline blacknox. Knowing that now, know this: There are no CANBUS ready bulbs. The BULB itself does not contain a computer module that sends codes in the CANBUS. Instead, what cause poor bulb compatibility is either how the car powers a bulb, or how the car detects a bulb that's blown out. For bulb power, a bulb can be volt controlled--lower the voltage, dim the bulb; or via Pulse Width Management (PWM) in which the car sends and removes current from a bulb at a speed inpercipitable to the human eye. PWM can extend the life of bulbs while saving electricity because for a few milliseconds, the halogen gas in the bulb continues to throw light in the absence of energy. This not only saves bulb life but also a modicum of fuel. Fiat Chrysler loves PWM. LED bulbs do not. RUNNING LEDs IN FCA VEHICLES: Most Fiat, Chrysler, Dodge and Ram that were designed pre-factory LEDs have software settings that can easily allow the car to run LED headlamps, but you'll need your dealer's help, or your own software. Many Chryslers run PWM by default, and this needs to change. I use AppCar Diag FCA. Funny name and a bit pricey, but this software allows you to change internal settings in FCA vehicles at the dealer level. This is software for a PC so you'll need that and and OBDII to USB interface cable. And old laptop is great for this. The relevant settings are as follows: -Use the "Canada" country code in the software. This will keep your dash measurements in the setting you had them in (US or Metruc) but give you full control over the daytime running light set up. In Canada, DRLs can be low beams, high beams at 50% power, fog lights or turn signal bulbs fully illuminated. If you car has DRLs set in the highbeams, the Canada setting may be active already. -In the software menu for Programable Features, select headlamps. In the setting for headlamps select HID/Xexon under the low beam menu. If you go on and select Bixexon, you will disable the ability to use highbeams as DRL, but this is not necessary: simply selecting the HID setting for lowbeams will disable PWM for both the low and hi beams. No ,ore flickering. If your want to keep the DRL in the highbeam and want to use LED, you can set the voltage for each high beam bulb individually between. 6 and 13.4 volts. Most bulbs on AZN are rated for 9 to 12, 24 or 36 volts (the Fahrens are 9-36 volts). Each whole volt belt 13 will dim the light output, so I'm testing my Fahren highbeam DRLs at 9 volts. When the highbeam switch is activated, the full 13 volts are sent and the reflector directs the light up and center of the lowbeam cutoff line. The lowbeam LEDs run at 13 volts. FOR VOLVOS: Good freaking luck: the low beam bulb out is measured by the resistance of the specified halogen bulb. The spec for this was designed too tightly by the engineers. You'll have to find a resistor that can exactly draw the resistance of the spec halogen bulb. If you can get your hands on VIDA software, there is a similar HID setting like the FCA process, but I dont have a way to test this. FOR OTHER CARS: "Decoder" is a fancy name for a resistor or capacitor or combination therein that attempts to trick the car into thinking that the LED bulb is using as much power as the factory specified bulb (the resistor), and stops flickering by storing voltage and releasing in a more normalized current (the capacitor). You success with this may vary. I am currently testing the Fahren H11 and Beamtech fanless H11 in my car and will report back often. I just got sick and tired of reading the loads of market speak or complete BS about this upgrade.
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Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on March 19, 2020 by ANTOINE JONES
Size: 9007/HB5
Ok so this was a amazing investment for a person with night blindness driving at night was difficult for me so I finally ordered some led headlights and chose this product for three main reasons. The reasons are price,reviews,and the fact they are smaller then most led bulbs. The only down fall is the installation was a tad difficult to any one who owns a vehicle with bulb number 9007 you need to install the bulbs lock ring in the headlight housing then put on your original bulb housing for ford's it's a plastic lock ring. Make sure you align the bulb by placing the leds at 3 and 9 o'clock in the housing after that your good to go and what can I say the difference is no pun intended night and day. Above are not so great pictures but do illustrate the difference between old halogen vs leds these are street legal and follow Florida dot protocols.
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Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on November 26, 2022 by James McGinnis
Size: H11/H9/H8
I installed the Fahren H11/H9/H8 LED Headlight Bulbs in the low beams of my 2017 Ford Edge Titanium making a big difference from the stock halogen bulbs. Much better side lighting and a brighter beam overall. I replaced them and tested them one at a time and found that the headlight aim was still spot on and reasonable helping to make the installation much easier. The hardest parts of the installation was that I had to move the coolant overflow tank to make access to the passenger side light easier and trying to locate a good placement to attach the light driver boxes. Overall great so far and I like them so much I ordered the 9005 high beam bulbs.
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Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on December 5, 2022 by James M.
Size: H11/H9/H8
I almost sent these back because I thought I ordered the wrong knes to replace my low beams...turned out I was trying to fit them in the high beam slot, which has a different bulb (HB3 9005) and bigger locking tabs. Once I corrected that error it went pretty smooth. They can be a challenge to twist all the way in-place on GM trucks and SUVs like my 2009 silverado. I did have to trim thr front and back tabs off the power connector on one side where the polariity was reversed due to an aftermarket power connector to get it working, then wrap electrical tape around it to keep the connection. So far no flickering, love the brightness and visibility. Do suggest that future versions only have 3 power connector tabs instead of 4 to fit more H11 connectors, and have a slimmer fan housing to make mounting in tight spaces easier.
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Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on December 4, 2022 by Cobyn B.
Size: H11 9005
Our 2015 Honda Odyssey EX-L has had terrible forward illumination since it was brand new. Tried multiple upgraded bulbs that were only slight improvements over the terrible OE bulbs. Finally decided to try this LED upgrade. Wow!!! Made a world of difference. Wish I would have added these LEDs a ling time ago. Only issues….Honda Odyssey install is tight. The controller box to light connector will plug in either way (right side up or upside down) but will only work properly one way or another. I did low and high beams and guessed right on 3/4, so only had to unplug, flip, and re-plug one of the connectors. Only other issue is that my DRL dash indicator light stays on in the daytime. i wish they would supply the parts to fix that one little thing. Regardless….I’d buy these again in a heartbeat.
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Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on November 22, 2022 by duramax